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07-31-2004, 12:39 PM
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#1
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3 Rivet Member 
El Paso
, Texas
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 233
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Gas Plumbing Questions
I'm re-building a gutted-out 58 Airstream and I'm to the point of plumbing in the gas lines from the tanks to to the applliances ( Refrigerator, stove, water heater and furnace ). What type of pipe should I use? Somebody sugested using black iron pipe under the trailer and thru the floor and then running a "flex appliance hose" to each appliance. Is this a good method or should I run copper lines and what "TYPE" ( K or L ) should I use? Does copper get eaten up propane gas?
Thanks and I hope somebody can help. It's my first Airstream and I'm loving every part of building it from the ground up.
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07-31-2004, 05:33 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 541
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The black pipe will be more durable than the copper, but it will also weigh a little more. IMHO - The difference in weight wouldn't be of any concern since we are only talking about an added 20 pounds or so. Plus the weight is not in a single spot since it is distributed over the length of the trailer.
__________________
Just adding my 2¢ worth
John G
___________________________
1975 31ft Sovereign International
........Rear Bath Double Bed Model
Tow Vehicle:1999 GMC Serria SLE Classic 1500 5.7Ltr
System: Jordon 2020 Ultima Brake Controller
Hook-Up: Equalizing Hitch and Sway Bar
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07-31-2004, 06:40 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master 
1967 26' Overlander
Huntsville
, Alabama
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,035
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aztlanco
...Somebody sugested using black iron pipe under the trailer and thru the floor and then running a "flex appliance hose" to each appliance. Is this a good method or should I run copper lines and what "TYPE" ( K or L ) should I use? Does copper get eaten up propane gas?...
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Balck iron pipe is well up to the task, but is much more difficult to support than copper.
"Flex appliance hoses", by [my local] code, can not be run through walls or floors.
Propane & Natural Gas do not attack copper. However, years ago, the bad smell added to both gases would, in some locales, attack the copper & cause a flaky rust inside the pipe. These flakes would fall off and clog jets. At the time, tin-lined copper pipe was made available to keep this from happening.
I think this problem was resolved since I have never been able to locate tin-lined copper pipe, and I have looked in two states.
I forget the differences between K & L pipe, but it deals with wall thickness. I believe either will work for you, but hopefully another member will chime in with a more definitive recommendation.
Tom
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07-31-2004, 08:32 PM
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#4
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4 Rivet Member 
2000 31' Land Yacht
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 497
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For best flared joints, get a double flaring tool and use it on all flares. The slight extra work will make for a much better, stronger, flare.
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08-01-2004, 07:04 AM
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#5
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Rivet Master 
1959 26' Overlander
Putnam
, Connecticut
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,064
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Type M is thin, L is medium, and K is thicker walled. In England they run gas in copper in the homes, have special connectors if I remember right. I would think it easier to work with if you are experienced with soildering. The K you need to get at someplace other than Home Depot.
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08-01-2004, 01:22 PM
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#6
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3 Rivet Member 
El Paso
, Texas
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 233
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Thanks guys, I knew I'd come to the right place for answers.
Ernie
18ft. "traveler"
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08-01-2004, 07:02 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,486
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The more I think about it, the more I dislike the idea of using black iron pipe in an RV. I don't think you will be ever able to secure it well enough to keep it in place. Potholes, washboard roads, railroad tracks, and all the other bumps in the road will put considerable g-force loading on the relatively large mass of the pipe. The consequences of it breaking away from its mounts and cracking open somewhere would be dire.
Copper pipe, on the other hand, has rather low mass and will be little affected by everyday jolts.
I have never seen sweated copper gas lines - only flair fittings. Surely sweated fittings cannot be permitted on gas lines, can they?
Mark
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08-01-2004, 07:51 PM
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#8
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2 Rivet Member 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 41
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gas lines
Quote:
Originally Posted by aztlanco
I'm re-building a gutted-out 58 Airstream and I'm to the point of plumbing in the gas lines from the tanks to to the applliances ( Refrigerator, stove, water heater and furnace ). What type of pipe should I use? Somebody sugested using black iron pipe under the trailer and thru the floor and then running a "flex appliance hose" to each appliance. Is this a good method or should I run copper lines and what "TYPE" ( K or L ) should I use? Does copper get eaten up propane gas?
Thanks and I hope somebody can help. It's my first Airstream and I'm loving every part of building it from the ground up.
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gastite , check out gastite at your local plumbing supply house
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08-01-2004, 07:58 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master 
1967 26' Overlander
Huntsville
, Alabama
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,035
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j54mark
...I have never seen sweated copper gas lines - only flair fittings. Surely sweated fittings cannot be permitted on gas lines, can they?
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I'm with you. It would be a lot easier to sweat-solder the joints, but I have NEVER seen an example in a professional installation.
Unless someone wants to point out the rule allowing the use of soldered joints, I think it is best to say that copper, when used in propane gas installations, should be joined with either flared or compression couplings. Preferably flared.
Tom
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08-02-2004, 07:24 PM
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#10
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3 Rivet Member 
El Paso
, Texas
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 233
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Thanks again guys,
I think I will go with the copper pipe and flared joints. I think copper is more flexible and giving when it comes time to traveling on the mountain roads where the chassis will flex and stress. How about aircraft hose hangers for support? You guys stick arround because I will definetly will have more questions in the future as I'm far from being finished.
Ernie, 58' Traveler (18 ft.)
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08-02-2004, 07:36 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master 
LOST
, Hawaii
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,193
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Sweated lines=big boom when repair time comes.
John
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08-02-2004, 10:23 PM
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#12
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Rivet Master 
2019 25' Flying Cloud
Airstream - Other
Airstream - Other
North Central Texas
, USA
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,003
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Our '04 has copper. Don't know what thickness though.
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08-30-2004, 01:02 AM
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#13
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2 Rivet Member 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 39
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Copper pipe infor source
If you guys go to copper.org and click on the fuel gas section it will give you more information about joining pipes, flared fittings and fuel gas in copper piping. See if it answers your questions in a more definitive manner. All I know is that I don't know nothin'.
__________________
"Few things are impossible to diligence and skill" -Samuel Johnson
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08-30-2004, 06:33 AM
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#14
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2 Rivet Member 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 41
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gastite
Quote:
Originally Posted by IceKing02
If you guys go to copper.org and click on the fuel gas section it will give you more information about joining pipes, flared fittings and fuel gas in copper piping. See if it answers your questions in a more definitive manner. All I know is that I don't know nothin'. 
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please check out the product gastite thanks
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08-30-2004, 10:23 AM
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#15
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Rivet Master 
1956 22' Flying Cloud
Durango
, Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: 1975 25' Tradewind
Posts: 3,503
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I would keep things simple - K copper and flared fittings, just like the original. NEVER put any fittings/pipe inside the belly. And you should never use flex pipe on a trailer.
Ken
__________________
1956 Flying Cloud
Founder :
Four Corners Unit
Albuquerque National Balloon Fiesta
Rally
Vintage Trailer Academy - Formerly the original
restoration rally
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09-20-2004, 01:42 PM
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#16
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Rivet Master 
2001 34' Limited S/O
Moyock
, North Carolina
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,010
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When I put in my wave heater I used compression fittings on my soft copper tubing just like they used in my home. Easy to work with, no special tools and the come apart and go back together without any undue fuss.
__________________
Keep the shiny side up.
WBCCI # 348
Past Region 3 President
Past President Tidewater Unit 111
Rick Bell in "Silverbell"
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