Fresh water system Gurus Please help a fellow out

[Tony S]

Hi folks,
Would some of you plumbing gurus enlighten me on the niceties’ of the fresh water system?

I am re plumbing my 73 Tradewind with Pex,using the crimps system and so far so good. If not slow due to head scratching. I am putting shut off valves to each component for ease of servicing, as well as, trying to locate things were they are easiest to get to.

I have couple of questions I was hoping you could answer for me to keep me on the path to success.

Where are check values necessary? On the “In” side of water heater and the outside” of water heater? Other? I have a shut off valve at the street water inlet, do I put a check valve in front of it before it feeds the system?

Should some kind of pressure relief values be part of the system?

How is the air bleed off the fresh water tank as it fills up?

Please add any "be sure" to do things if you would.

Well, any help would be appreciated I do not want a soggy trailer or one that does not supply water properly.

Many Thanks you in advance

Tony

[DKB_SATX]

Generally the freshwater pump has a check valve built in. You'll want a check valve just inboard of the city water inlet as well.

I don't think you need checkvalves around the water heater, but if you want to winterize using the fill-with-antifreeze method you might want bypass valves so you can shunt water around the water heater and just drain the heater in the winter, to save you 6 gallons of antifreeze.

My trailer has a pressure regulator just inboard of the city water inlet, and the water heater has a pressure relief valve built in.

My freshwater tank has a small vent tube above the filler tube, and air vents back to the filler neck. My Argosy has an above-the-floor fresh tank, where I think yours is below the floor but the theory is probably similar.

[Tony S]

I suspect you are have the conical adjustable regulator in the picture. I was going to leave it out and go with one pre white house when infilling from city.

I will put a check valve as you suggest at the infill.

I am lucky that I have a built in by pass on water heater. So that is covered. I had a mobil tec here to look at doing my propane and he suggested the check valve at the water heater but I had never heard of that.

Anyone else with any suggestion or pictures please put forward.

Thanks

Tony

[HowieE]

Simplify things and just get a current city connection for the side of the trailer. That connection will have the check and regulator built in.

There is no need for "local valves" at each faucet. Whenever you need to work on the plumbing just turn the pump off or disconnect from the city. Same effect

[Tony S]

I get it. Simple is good. What I did was took Colin C advice he gave on vap show 189 and went with the local valves for the ability to service or shut down while continue a trip. I suspect it is over kill. So was epoxying the floor and a few other things I guess why stop now.

The reason I didn't go with the current style city connection is I could not find it in metal. I didn't want "chrome" plated plastic. I rigged this up. Kind of different. I hope it works out.

Tony

[silver 67]

I used pex tubing and shark bite fittings

[Zil]

Cold water into heating tank will expand. Usually the water backs into a line. Check valves on hot water will cause relief valve leak.

[Bigventure]

Originally Posted by Zil

Cold water into heating tank will expand. Usually the water backs into a line. Check valves on hot water will cause relief valve leak.

The hot water expands into the hot water tank. There is an air bubble on the top of the tank for this.

Let's not forget drain valves.

[TG Twinkie]

Modern systems use a check valve and a three way valve to bypass the water heater.
The check valve is positioned on the hot water outlet in such a manner as to let the hot water flow out when in "use" mode. It prevents RV Antifreeze from going back thru the hot water outlet.
I think low point drains are a waste of time and money. Plus they can be a headache if one leaks. How does one determine the low point? What if you can't park on a level surface when winterizing.
Eliminate the low point drains and use an air compressor when winterizing.
Also pressure regulators should not be hard piped into the coach. When they fail, and they will. It is a big job to remove and replace.
Locate fittings in a convenient place for future access, especially valves. Even if it takes a little more piping to make this happen.


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[Tony S]

Thanks for the input.

Here is what I have been working on. Looks simple when done definitely some head scratching. There is all the function and then there is the placement and competition for thight space. I still have the vent duct coming in the closet over to the right against wall. I still have one crimp I can't get to. There has to be a smaller tool out there or some tricky way. It is just after the valve for draining the cold water. The closet width is not wide enough for the tool I have. i have some of the front done also. Have not hooked up the the water heater yet. I will put the check valve in as you suggest for water going out. How about a check valve in front of the water tank.

I have one just after the water coming in. I used white pipe for water coming in and drains. Also for the short run to the toilet. The plan is to frame for a Polycarb floor above the plumbing the is hinged so I can see things and get to them when I have to. I have some scrap Polycarb sheets.

I did already plumb the low point drains but do hear your point. The way I also heard it and the reason I did plumb for low point drains front and aback was have as set in back and front open when running down the road
and let it splash forward and back and drain.

My hot water heater came with a by pass valve, I believe, so that is covered

Thanks

Tony