Built in pressure regulator

[jondrew55]

I've always used a pressure regulator in my RVs for the city water. Airstreams build that in apparently. But the pressure regulators I've had rarely lasted more than 2 or 3 seasons. Usually the pressure gauge would fail and not read anything so I never knew if it were working or not. How do you know if the built in regulator fails? I assume it just restricts water pressure inside the trailer?

[GCinSC2]

How about a $10 Water Pressure Test Gauge? Connect to outlet hose bib from trailer, turn on and read your trailers water system pressure.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Watts-Water...lve/1001063062

Other flag is drip drip drip from the regulator.

Gary

[uncle_bob]

Hi

Watch the water flow from the faucets in the trailer. You *will* notice when the regulator dies ....

Bob

[Malia20]

A very good question. Without a pressure gauge on the house side of the regulator you do not know. There have been threads on here that discuss failed (dripping) built-in regulators, they are plastic. At a park that seemed to have high water pressure, I noticed water dripping from the city water inlet area of the trailer. Regulator or a connection leaking? No way to know which as I did not open the area up.
I now use an external pressure regulator with a gauge on the house side (Renator M11-0660R). I also have a gauge for the hose bib/city side, so I can see if pressure reduction is needed and if it is working. This method of controlling pressure eliminates the need to know if the plastic built-in regulator is working.
Safe travels
Fred

[Trons4u]

It doesn't matter, I always use a regulator with a gage and set to 55psi. When I restored my '59 Tradewind I put in a water connection that has a pressure reducer built in, but I'm a firm believer in redundancy.

[kscherzi]

Last RV park I watched the white water hose to the pedestel balloon up like a sausage. Fearing it would explode I disconnected and tested pressure, 110 lbs. Connected the brass regulator I carry around onto the pedestel spigot and set it for 55 lbs.

[hhendrix]

My issue is the built in regulator over regulates. Good pressure from source but pretty lame inside. I don't think the internal one is adjustable. Any thoughts out there?

[GCinSC2]

Test to confirm low pressure and inspect faucet aerator for crud & obstructions.

Depending on location regulator R&R can be easy or annoying.

[jondrew55]

Originally Posted by hhendrix

My issue is the built in regulator over regulates. Good pressure from source but pretty lame inside. I don't think the internal one is adjustable. Any thoughts out there?

Water pressure in my experience so far is the best of any RV I've owned. Either from city water or using the internal fresh water tank and the pump.

[Mollysdad]

The built in regulator does not protect your hose.
In an ongoing effort to stop annoying leaks, my hose has become a science project. Quick disconnects on all ends. An adjustable pressure regulator near the city end,



and a "Y" fitting so I could add a second hose or just get water at the hose barb. The Y fitting is the only screw on, and without the hose and assorted parts attached it gives you something to grip when tightening or removing.

[Fungus]

Originally Posted by Mollysdad

The built in regulator does not protect your hose.
In an ongoing effort to stop annoying leaks, my hose has become a science project. Quick disconnects on all ends. An adjustable pressure regulator near the city end,

I bought two different brands of this type on Amazon. They are virtually identical Chinese-made regulators but 30% different in price. Just but the least expensive one out there.

[jondrew55]

Originally Posted by Fungus

I bought two different brands of this type on Amazon. They are virtually identical Chinese-made regulators but 30% different in price. Just but the least expensive one out there.

Same. I’m lucky to get 2 years out of them before the gauge stops working. No idea what the pressure is after that.

[delrossa]

I have replaced my regulator on the trailer twice due to it leaking. When they leak the water goes down the inside wall and usually shows up dripping near the grey and black valves on a 28’.
I figured out the cause of the failures.
I never leave the hot water heater cooking all day. When I’m going to need a lot of hot water I turn the tank on.
Hot water expands quite a bit and there is nowhere for the extra pressure to go but leak at the regulator.
I installed a Shurflo 182-200 accumulator and that fixed the problem. Also if you are using just the pump, it doesn’t cycle as much.
Works great.

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by delrossa

I have replaced my regulator on the trailer twice due to it leaking. When they leak the water goes down the inside wall and usually shows up dripping near the grey and black valves on a 28’.
I figured out the cause of the failures.
I never leave the hot water heater cooking all day. When I’m going to need a lot of hot water I turn the tank on.
Hot water expands quite a bit and there is nowhere for the extra pressure to go but leak at the regulator.
I installed a Shurflo 182-200 accumulator and that fixed the problem. Also if you are using just the pump, it doesn’t cycle as much.
Works great.

Hi

There are AS trailers out there that have an overpressure on the hot water. One would *think* the stock regulator supplied on those trailers would be set *below* the over pressure dump valve. Early on, that was not the case. Hook up to a high pressure campground and you get this jet of water out the bottom of the trailer. Yes, they did replace the regulator with a "correct" one under warranty.

Why go into all this? If your regulator fails in 2 years, you have a 3 year warranty. I suspect they will replace it for free.....

Bob

[aftermath]

Originally Posted by hhendrix

My issue is the built in regulator over regulates. Good pressure from source but pretty lame inside. I don't think the internal one is adjustable. Any thoughts out there?

This is what I am dealing with. I wish I had an idea. Mine, much older unit, was dripping and I finally figured it out. I don't believe it had anything to do with my water heater as someone stated. I replaced it and now, while I solved the dripping, my inside pressure is much lower. I also noticed that the inlet screen is not removeable. I used to remove my old one and clean it out once or twice a year. Purchased this part from the local Airstream dealer so I will be taking a trip back soon enough.


To answer the OP's question, I know of no way to check the inside pressure in the trailer.

[s1000pre]

The built in regulator on my 2021 was bad from the factory, it was over-restricting. Very little pressure from city water. I ordered a replacement on Amazon. I have had to deal with burst and frozen hoses, water jugs, etc. The best advice I received is to operate everything from the fresh tank, switching the pump on only when needed. You shouldn’t ever experience a burst pipe, frozen/burst hose. Your water pressure is alway consistent. And you can drink clean safe water directly from your fresh water tank. I shock my fresh water tank twice per season. I use a Clearsource water filtration system and water softener when filling, and a Seagull filter under the sink for drinking water. Our family of four can live off the fresh tank four days without re-filling. That includes a daily shower for my wife and I and every other day for the kids.

[GCinSC2]

Originally Posted by aftermath

To answer the OP's question, I know of no way to check the inside pressure in the trailer.

Does your water system include an external water hose connection?

if so water pressure past the built in regulator is a constant throughout the closed system. Attach that water pressure test gauge that I linked in post 2 to it and open the hose connection valve. That would show the internal PSI in the trailer water system.

Due to the vacuum breaker or check valve not sure if it will accurately show working pressure if you run water inside the rig I have not tried that.

[WestieHouse]

A few months ago I was camped near the city water supply pumps and the measured pressure was > 100 psi using our external pressure regulator valve (shown in previous posts). However, I failed to use it for the hose when flushing my black tank assuming their would be no pressure build up in the system as I was actively flushing the black tank.

After several successful flushes over a period of weeks, I heard a sudden "pop" when starting the black flush. The flow to my black tank stopped immediately.

The Airstream manual was useless as the diagram does not show any valves ot details related to the flush system for the black tank (2019 25' FB FC). I contacted Jackson Center via email requesting a plumbing diagram, which they promptly sent. However, even that diagram showed only a brass anti-siphon valve just inside the inlet. The Airstream diagram did not show any other valve.

When I accessed the space behind the lavatory I saw there was also a grey plastic check valve immediately downstream from the anti-siphon valve. When I removed both valves I saw that the internal parts of the check valve had failed and a portion of it blocked the flow to the black tank. I was greatly relieved that the broken piece had not traveled further into the line that flushes the black tank.

The plastic check was readily available in Amazon at about $5.00. The repair was easy, other than the usual difficulty with access and sharp aluminum edges.

Bottom line: I always use a pressure regulator for both fresh water supply and black tank flush.

[aftermath]

Originally Posted by GCinSC2

Does your water system include an external water hose connection?

It does not.

[GCinSC2]

Originally Posted by aftermath

It does not.

OK a bit more to rig up to test but not impossible.

Can you see any water line that ends with this wing nut type fitting like to the kitchen or lav faucet, whatever has more access.

It connects to a 1/2" NPSM pipe fitting. Using the fewest number of fittings connect to a water pressure test gauge. I cobbled this together from parts on hand just to demo the idea.

If a permanent internal gauge is desired cutting the PEX and inserting a T that connects to a permanent gauge could be installed under the sink, or any place that is easy access to pipe and viewing as desired.