Quilting and Airstreams

[HankandLois]

Quilting? Did someone say quilting?

I've been sewing from my airstream for well over a year... I have a smaller Janome unit for the AS, plus I have my big Janome 7700 (love it!) for home. I keep the small janome inside my nightstand in a quilted "bag". It fits so perfectly in there. I also keep a large pressing board* in the closet/wardrobe along with my cutting mats and rulers. My notions box goes under my bed.

Yep, I've been seen sewing on a picnic table The dinette is my sewing spot when I can't be outside.

*Pressing board = 1/4" MDF (24x36), covered with an "envelope" made of old bath towels and then a cute retro print cotton envelope cover.

/Lois

[Steve Heywood]

Quilt while in my AS? I never even thought of it before. Although thanx ladies because now I am think I might be able to get Steve to buy me another machine, as the other machines I want would get a "You could buy an Airstream for that much money!"
Mostly my sewing skills went to making slipcovers and curtains for the Airstream. I think making an airstream quilt would be easy esp if you paper piece it. I'd would sign up for a quilt block swap and love making one for a charity auction. As for rallying I'd love to but we are trailerless waiting to find our next Airstream.
If anyone does want to do a set of blocks to share with others let me know. I have done other quilt swaps before and really enjoyed getting blocks from other quilters from different areas and seeing them all made up in different ways.

Steve's Wife Amber

[Foiled Again]

Originally Posted by rebelstand

Hey Paula,
You've just crushed my poor broken spirit. I could have used that machine BEFORE I sewed the two Gaucho covers and saved myself a trip to perdition. Do you have any idea how much I fought that 9410 sewing my covers? Did I mention that the 9410 can't wind a bobbin?

As for the 1948 Model "15", I personally have a 20's model 15 treadle and there isn't much that machine won't sew. However being a treadle and having antique decals in good condition prevents me from using it with the heavier fabrics.
Nicki

Sorry My mother traded hers for a lighter weight machine. The 306 could be bought in a hard side case and was "portable" but it was a hernia getting ready to happen. She didn't ask me in advance if I wanted it. I would have cheerfully given her more than they offered in trade. If you're not going to bid, perhaps I will.

Paula

[fr8tshaker]

[QUOTE=Foiled Again;894214]My mother caught me trying to use her machine when I was three. She decided to teach me rather than wait to find me howling with a needle through my pinkie. I think I LIVED at the Singer Sewing Center through elementary school. The owner, a relative of some kind, let me use ANY machine, (I was his "how hard can it be if a seven year old can do it?" model.)

Narrow seams - get a machine with a speed governor on it. Sew on SLOW. Also many machines have a seam guide that screws into the bed to keep you straight. If yours doesn't, a piece of colored tape marking the seam allowance distance from the needle can help you go straighter.

Anyone can learn anything if they are willing to put in the time and patience. What you want to do will take both. If you intend to use stretch fabrics a serger is almost a must. That sentence will cause instant consternation from many people - but remember - Scarlett O'hara wore supportive undergarments LONG before elastic was invented.

There are quite a few people today who are allergic to latex who must wear 100% fabric bras. If you can remember the 1950's some of those were still pretty common. In SOME respects those could actually be more comfortable than the spandex ones of today. If you're carrying an extra few pounds, spandex loves to create grooves in your softer spots - and most of todays bras either have NO underwire, or ONE under the cup underwire or ONE stay where the side piece meets the cup. That little sucker will stab you at both ends. Back in the day, most bras for large busted women had a series of vertical side stays, put in like fence posts about an inch apart, from the side of the cup well back under the arm. It kept the fabric from rolling, and gave support without that one little spear jabbing you.

All "C" and up ladies should treat themselves to a trip to a high end fitter at least once. Extra stays can be added to off the shelf bras and many like them better that way. It's a do-it-yourself project if you can thread "wooly nylon" on your standard machine and get the proper bias tape to encase the stay. (Try on an old bra first.)

So: Down to specifics. Take a sewing class in sewing with stretch fabric. The LARGE JoAnne and Hancock stores often run those. There are also some very nice independent stores out there, but check for longevity and reputation of their classes. You can find some very good DVD training too, but when things go wrong an instructor can get you back on track a lot quicker than a DVD. The real benefit of taking a class IN STORE is that you can use the higher end machines like the Pfaff and Elnas and Husqueveras??? sp?. (Then find a used one on the internet.) Instructors will show you less expensive ones too if the top models are just out of your range. You'll get to know what works and what won't by taking the class.

IMHO, nothing Singer has built since the late 60's is worth a darn. Also don't touch anything you can get at WalMart - they may have a known manufacturer's name, but they are a cheaper version.

Virtually all machines are now manufactured in Asia - even the Janomes. However there is decent Asian stuff and Asian crap. Mid-level Janomes tend to be very good machines, both the regular and sergers. I can't speak for the high end embroidery ones though.

Now about those narrow seams. Most seams are trimmed back during or after sewing. Sergers all have cutters that snip the fabric back to the stitch line just before needles. Other seams are oversewn. Get a piece of scrap fabric and I'll teach you two techniques.

FLAT FELD SEAMS - sew your plain old 5/8" seam. Press open. On the inside trim back one seam allowance to a bit less than 1/4" inch. Use small scissors to make it easier. On the other side fold over the seam and press in half parallel to the stitching. Fold that over the raw trimmed seam. Press flat. Run a second line of stitching down the folded side about 1/16" from the fold. TA DA.

Now for a blue jean seam, run another line of stitching 1/16" inch from the first seam.

Another Variation on that is to triple fold the uncut seam allowance and instead of sewing through the front of the fabric actually fold that piece around the trimmed side and sew down the edge just behind the main seam going only through the folded allowance and the trimmed one inside.

FRENCH SEAM - If you ever sew anything that loves to ravel, a serger solves that problem, but if you want to make your seam look very elegant, especially on something that's a bit see-through - there's a very simple way to do it. Cut your pieces as normal. Put them together RIGHT SIDE OUT, sew the seam with 1/4" or less, Fold the pieces inside out, and press flat at the seam. Sew the real seam at 3/8". This encases the raw edges inside the seam. (GREAT for scratchy stiff stuff like Taffeta.)

So. Bras are all detail work, even the "over the shoulder boulder holders". Some machines have a speed limiter (great for kids learning to sew) and very good for this kind of work. Look for that feature and for anything especially designed for stretch fabric.

And DO look up "large cup size bras" on the internet. You may find you CAN get something ready made for your relatives. (Of course the ungrateful wenches will probably have reduction surgery about a month after you master how to make their garments!)


Paula,

Thank you for all the tips. I will try them out.

I pretty muched stopped sewing for my DD after puberty. I can tweak a standard pattern for a good fit, but her needs were out of my skill level. She is not heavy and that is one of the problems. Women's clothing is not made for someone with a large bust and small everywhere else.

Books and DVDs are pretty much my main option since I drive longhaul. Wish I could find a one or two week class being offered on bra and lingerie making. It would be worth spending my hometime on.

I would certainly benefit from a class to learn how to fit a bra. DD most certainly did not get her well endowed bustline from me. My method of fitting a bra for myself has been to hold one cup over one boob and throw it in the cart if it looked like a good fit.

Happy trails,

'shaker

[rebelstand]

Originally Posted by Foiled Again

Sorry My mother traded hers for a lighter weight machine. The 306 could be bought in a hard side case and was "portable" but it was a hernia getting ready to happen. She didn't ask me in advance if I wanted it. I would have cheerfully given her more than they offered in trade. If you're not going to bid, perhaps I will.

Paula

Would love to bid on it but right now we are saving up for the new fridge for the AS. I will be keeping it in mind because I honestly do want a work horse that's a less frustrating machine!

So I'll say

"Thank you so much Paula for giving me a good option for my work horse!"

[rebelstand]

Originally Posted by Steve Heywood

If anyone does want to do a set of blocks to share with others let me know. I have done other quilt swaps before and really enjoyed getting blocks from other quilters from different areas and seeing them all made up in different ways.

Steve's Wife Amber

Amber,
I am very interested in this. I hope we can get enough interest.

[wheel interested]

Originally Posted by rebelstand

Amber,
I am very interested in this. I hope we can get enough interest.

Me too. Maybe Amber can tell us how we go about this. Is there a theme we should follow or a particular scale, applique or patchwork? I have never been a part of something like this but it seems like it would be a lot of fun. Would we be doing scenes or our Airstream or camping or RVing motifs?

I am really impressed with all the experience and expertise here. I am a novice by all accounts, think folk art and rudimentary renderings and basic skill levels.

These project pictures are so cool. Keep the pictures coming everyone. I love it. I enjoy pattern books and all the various designs and quilts. It's always nice to see the work others have done. Sewing or quilting seems to bring women together for more than material and stitches... it's a nice dynamic.

[Foiled Again]

I pretty muched stopped sewing for my DD after puberty. I can tweak a standard pattern for a good fit, but her needs were out of my skill level. She is not heavy and that is one of the problems. Women's clothing is not made for someone with a large bust and small everywhere else.

Books and DVDs are pretty much my main option since I drive longhaul. Wish I could find a one or two week class being offered on bra and lingerie making. It would be worth spending my hometime on.

I would certainly benefit from a class to learn how to fit a bra. DD most certainly did not get her well endowed bustline from me. My method of fitting a bra for myself has been to hold one cup over one boob and throw it in the cart if it looked like a good fit.

Happy trails,

'shaker

Large bust modification - or large ANYTHING modification. Most people make the mistake of expanding patterns SIDEWAYS to accommodate large bust hips or buttocks, but that is a one dimensional fix for a three dimensional problem. If you are large to super large, darts are the only solution. A tape measure and cheap unbleached muslin are your best methods to learn the large bust mod.

• If you are big busted the measurement from your underarm to your waist isn't bigger than a normal persons, but the difference from your mid shoulder across the nipple of your bust and down to your waist is - by 3 to 12 inches, Next measure from the side seam in the underarm across the nipple to the centerline of your body.
• the side to side measurement from your underarm to your midine across the nipple is also MUCH bigger than a B cupper's size.
• For any shirt or dress the solution is to chop the front top piece in quarters with both the horizontal and verticle cuts going directly through the spot where the nipple would be (wearing a bra).
• Measure the pattern - mid shoulder to waist - subtract that from the actual big busted persons length - that's how many inches top to bottom you'll have to add to the pattern.
• Measure the pattern - horizontally across the bustline to the centerline of the body - suptract that from your actual measurement - that's how much wider the front piece has to be...

So next you ask... well how do I get this giant front piece to fit to the back piece - DARTS at the side, at the top and at the waist. AND by cleverly re setting of the pieces of the pattern. For instance the two pieces that were cut apart vertically can be scooted together at the waist and mid shoulder leaving a wide gap at mid-bust - then only a dart on the side is needed to reduce the side seam to the same length as the back piece. Of course if the front buttons, all of the button locations will have to be adjusted. In some cases you may also want (or need) to do gathers in the front top at the seam, and put a dart at the waist.

The muslin? Make a trial top. If it's still too tight, slash it and sew in pieces until it fits correctly, then you take that apart and make a finished muslin pattern! for future use.

If you'd like to envision this without a model, cut a back piece and a front piece, then put the back piece on the table, and put a funnel on top of it where the breast would be located, now snip the top piece top to bottom, from the CENTER to within 1/2 inch of the top - and in the other direction, from the center to within one inch of the bottom, again cut from the center sideways to within an inch of the side and center seams. Put the piece over the funnel and pin to the back piece. See where you're missing fabric? Fill in the pieces and you have an adusted top.

paula

[maxandgeorgia]

Paula, you are purely amazing for your insight that transfers a confusing complex project into something simple and understandable in comparison. I wish we could have a big sewing rally with you as chief instructor/problem solver. I'd love to sit with my machine and fellow seamstresses/quilters and sew the days away. As for "camping" fabric for possible projects, have any you seen Moda's "Happy Campers" line of fabric designs? Early this summer I purchased several small square packs of the HC line, thinking I'd do a disappearing nine patch throw for my daughter who bought her first camper, a Coleman pop up this winter. Just the other day, I saw another piece in the line, a panel of about nine "pictures" framed in "stick frames" and bordered all around with a red plaid. The "pictures" look like '40's, reminiscent of my own family pictures of that vintage. This line is colorful, vintage-looking, fun. I plan to do some winter sewing/quilting with it to get ready for spring camping. Maybe some of you will like it to. It's not detailed design piecing, but easy, quick, and fits the camping theme with our Airstream/Argosies. ~G

[rebelstand]

Originally Posted by maxandgeorgia

As for "camping" fabric for possible projects, have any you seen Moda's "Happy Campers" line of fabric designs?

I love that fabric line. I really wanted to do something with it when it first came out but had too many projects going at the time. My local shop doesn't have any of the precuts left. However, it might still be available online for purchase. Possibly off the bolt as well (off the bolt around here usually costs about $8 per yard.)

[Jezibels]

Below is a thread that references some helpful links to some really neat fabrics. I found there are fabric vendors on Ebay who sell these special fabrics and you can bid your "best offer" and may just get them for a reasonable price.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f39/...ges-67853.html

[mcair]

Re: tweaking patterns
Sometimes you wind up using a smaller size pattern piece for the back than you do for the front. Of course you ned to make sure to lengthen the smaller one so your sides match up. I've seen several people do this and it works great for them.
I love to make clothes for me because I am different sizes on top and bottom and it is easy to make a dress bodice one size and then curve out to a bigger size for the bottom. Custom fit that you won't get from any RTW garment. I am excited to see other garment sewers here. I enjoy the quilting, but garments are my first love. I think I enjoy the challenge more.

[mcair]

And for all of you garment ladies, there lot's more patterns out there than the big 4 (simplicity, butterick, mccalls.vogue) that you get at Joanns. I am a huge fan of Burda (german, but available in english) and there are several small pattern companies that are not too well known. Much more fashionable and better fitting than the big 4. Love, love burda's pants!

[Tucumcari]

I would love to follow and see the type of quilting that all of you do. I am making yo-yo's for a jacket that promotes our University of Iowa team. Someday we will move to NM so I'll have to add some other colors. I got my material at Walmart with the logos on it.

Originally Posted by SilverHoot

My wife has asked me to make the inquiry as to whether there are any quilters that Airstream. We are renovating our 67 Tradewind and would like to incorporate any ideas other quilters have for sewing while on the road.

[Tucumcari]

Please keep me posted on your quilting project.

[Sav'h Steve]

This is what my wife came up with....

[maxandgeorgia]

Look at that Snail's Trail...leading my mind to all kinds of meanders with the Airstream in the center! Wonderful design ~G

[Foiled Again]

The best $10 I ever spent on anything for sewing was a "walking foot".

When you're sewing a seam - particularly on the bias or using a slippery fabric, or if your presser foot is pressing too hard, the bottom layer tends to be gathered by the feed dogs while the top layer tends to stretch. Hellish if you're trying to match plaids... but still makes for a puckered mess even on a more forgiving seam. The walking foot varies from manufacturer to manufacturer, but it causes the top layer to move in concert with the bottom one. Some are basically roller bearings, some are spring loaded rollers. I've never bought a machine where one was an included accessory.

Of course you can save $10 and baste those seams by hand. Forever!

If you are using a serger, the differential feed adjustment can overcome this tendency... however for max control and detail work, the conventional machine is far better. Sergers are great for high speed work. Even for piecing simple quilts.

Paula

[mcair]

Best sewing $$ I've spent yet is my Janome horizon 7700 with the built in Accu feed. Puts walking feet to shame. But it did cost (just a little) more than $10.

[HankandLois]

Originally Posted by fr8tshaker

Books and DVDs are pretty much my main option since I drive longhaul.

Dang, I was a couple weeks too late in meeting you in Arkansas this past winter... My hubby was the other AS in the campground. I remember him mentioning that he met you.

I love books and magazines for ideas... Just wish I had a way to store them while I am on the road.

Speaking of storage, I keep my notions in an Art Bin box. As for my stash, I buy as needed.

I haven't ventured into clothing. I started back sewing (after HS home ec 30 years ago) by making a new interior to replace my ocean breeze stuff. I was getting tired of the color blue. I created two interior schemes so far.

One with an Ibis (that looks like a flamingo)

...and the other is what I call Gyspy...
(hope the photos work)

I have a third interior coming using a cute Michael Miller Vintage Trailer/gnome grouping.

I want to use a good marine vinyl for cushions next. Will stay cleaner longer... but I'll need to get a really heavy duty machine for that.

/Lois