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Old 09-17-2006, 09:25 PM   #41
Rivet Master
1960 24' Tradewind
santa barbara , California
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,352
Silver toy ,it is possible its an ez-lift maybe ,but the design goes back to the 60s so I could be wrong .the early bars like the photo show have that partial
flat to go into the hitch head ,then rotate to engage the tab inside the socket. I installed the metal 1/4 inch tabs in the oval hole and then welded
them in place ,you can see they protrude into the socket as viewed from the bottom of the hitch head.The design of the style I copied they don't use
anymore ,instead the clips and pins ,certainly not the best as we have found out .I think I do mean EZ -LIFT hitch not equalizer .Most hitches made have
those pins in one form or another it looks like and I think my hitch was a drawtite .When I say tabs I mean the metal bar sections I made from
1/4 thick x 3/4 wide steel x 3/4 " long ,they are welded on the outside after they are installed permanently.Now I could have just used a 1/4 "round steel pinto engage the bar utilizing the same holes and welded them in place and then put a notch in the spring bar for fitting the bar in the hitch head ,then turninto position ,that would be just as effective ,but I made it abit more heavier duty with the steel inserts.Any way i don't have to be cocerned with
the bars dropping out anymore ,although mine never did ,but then after Barrys terrible scenario ,I won't take chances.the snap up brackets with the chains as mine has does not require any A frame drilling either ,the brackets
have a C clamp type bolt on the inside so you just tighten them to the frame.
My 60 trdwnd has additional frame support for the brackets welded to the A frame that the snap up brackets go over for extra strength .I looked at the
Equalizer hitch in my RV catalog and it is different than the regular round bar
hitch setups ,Im sure yours is a good setup .i didn't see a need for me to replace my hitch ,just fix the issue at hand ,the pins and its done .

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Old 09-18-2006, 09:30 AM   #42
Tom, the Uber Disney Fan
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2006 30' Safari
Orlando , Florida
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,693
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I was sold on the idea of the Reese dual cam and had planned to get that brand, but the overwhelming recommendation on the forums was to go with the Equal-i-zer brand. I thought the idea of the stirrup and cam made a lot of sense, but even the manufacture's rep from Airstream said that AS recommended the Equal-i-zer, so I took a little closer look and the system seemed much simpler and more of an "elegant" solution. As was said by SilverToy, all of the positives are there. It is easy to apply, simple to use and even my wife (AKA Princess Diva) could hitch up in a heart beat if I asked her too. But of course, I wouldn't if I wanted to keep my head on my shoulders.
2006 30' Safari - "Changes in Latitudes"
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Old 09-18-2006, 03:27 PM   #43
3 Rivet Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 126
Originally Posted by scottanlily
this business of (page cannot be displayed is really irritating) causing photo upload problems ,sorry for that are the last couple I hope


I think the question you were asked is how you planned on maintaining your hitch? I didn't see any zirc fittings dor a means to inspect for pin wear. I would certainly mark the location of the round bar now and keep track of how much it drops. How hard was the new pin. I would think that after welding it in place you might have taken the temper out of it.
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Old 09-18-2006, 07:31 PM   #44
Rivet Master
1960 24' Tradewind
santa barbara , California
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,352
Barry ,the steel tabs , not pins anymore ,are mild steel .they just retain the bar 3/4 inch wide in the bar groove as opposed to the 1/8 " that
the pin held the bar,I saw your pics of the pins and looked at mine ,1/8" only
in width held the bar in and your photo clearly showed hardley any penetration into the groove .mine indexed about 3/16 only .Not much at all .
So now there is a full 1/4 index and 3/4 wide has a curvature to fit the round
bar diameter ,I fiited them before install to the bar groove to get the maximum close fit and not bind in the groove.the ez-lift hitch I had before
has this same design exactly .The proper way to maintain the hitch bars is
to lubricate the sockets and bars including sway control ball ,on hitch and tongue.I use trailer hitch ball /socket grease called hitch lube ,available at
Rv stores .The zerk grease gun method does work ,I just apply it before installing the bars and sway control and a dab on the ball also.This way the lubricant is applied all around the bars and sockets .A simple and most effective way of doing it.I would not rely on the grease gun getting the grease all around the circumference of the bars ,it will go in and up and out and down ,not all the way around .The round bars can be checked each time you remove them for wear ,you will find the wear as in your bars ,not lubed
had gouging on the tension side at the front of the socket,that is where the bars will always wear as the high tension when loaded is right there.also those pins are not designed for load ,just to hold the bars from dropping out.
I have little bar wear or groove wear at all ,the groove now has a full 3/4 width of engagement so I won't have any trouble .always inspecting for wear always should be done each hitch up and un hitching procedure.your experience proved to me that that pin setup is a weak design capable of failure even when new and isn't safe ,somthing I wont have to worry about anymore.Once the bars are under tension the force upward lifting the vehical
in the rear ,the bars are loading in the sockets ,not the pins or steel tabs.
The bar can only drop out when it looses tension and the round pins fail to
secure the bar properly.never heard of bars falling out of any hitch before now .

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