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Old 06-24-2011, 04:30 AM   #181
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1977 Argosy 28
1977 28' Argosy 28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shepherd57 View Post
Can anybody tell me how much a 28ft weights I have to trailer one home and need to know the net weight .
Thanks
As I understand it:
Curb weight ( Weight of unloaded MH with standard equipment ) =
around 9.800



..and BTW now we're at it:
Loaded Maximum G.V.W.R (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) = 12.500

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Old 06-24-2011, 08:25 AM   #182
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Octane, great picture of specs, you wouldn't happen to have similar pages for the Land Yacht series.
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Old 06-25-2011, 11:43 PM   #183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shepherd57 View Post
Can anybody tell me how much a 28ft weights I have to trailer one home and need to know the net weight .
Thanks
I did a little research on this and there are differences. My Document For Incomplete Vehicle shows a 14,500 GVW. The page from the Owners Manual also reflects this. The Chevrolet Motor Home Chassis Service Guide indicates that four wheel disc brakes are standard on the 14,500 GVW moho. My question is how come there is 2,000 lb. difference in the coaches. The layout and features seem pretty much the same. I can't imagine disc brakes and a different differential weigh 2,000 lbs more.

Cheers, Dan
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Old 06-27-2011, 10:35 AM   #184
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveFL View Post
Octane, great picture of specs, you wouldn't happen to have similar pages for the Land Yacht series.
Sorry Dave; no I don't.
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Old 06-27-2011, 10:58 AM   #185
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Yes Octane, good info... where did you get that?
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Old 07-16-2011, 04:11 AM   #186
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That's from my owners manual.
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Old 10-18-2012, 08:30 PM   #187
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Agreed, seen that too many times!

As for your M/H, I looked at the Installation manual and hope you can read this pic I took.


My info is that most mechanical fuel pumps on 454's have a return line from pump itself, to allow excess pressure NOT USED by the Carb to vent back to tank. For example, 4000rpm climbing a steep hill would max out the pump and the fuel consumption too, but then cresting the hill and going downhill, throttle shut with 4000rpm, would still have the pump on max output, but the excess pressure and volume, un-needed now would go back to the tank.
By installing the sensor between the pump and carb only the fuel flowing into the carb is measured, which is what you want.

Yours would be a TBI?
Looks like they had a kit that would have worked on that...
Steve, have you installed the Zemco yet with the sensor between the pump and the carb? If so do you have pictures of the installation?

I just managed to score a ZT-4 off of ebay and one of these days I hope it tells me how good my mileage really is on the Argosy!

Brad
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Old 10-18-2012, 08:47 PM   #188
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Not fitted it yet Brad... It will go in when I do the fuel tank and lines..

On my 84, there is no return from the carb, only from the fuel pump...
So I think we should be good...
I in fact took this pic yesterday while I was crawling about under there, that proves it...
Feed from tank is the one with the new pipe and good clamp on... which I did recently... return is the crap worm clamp and mushy pipe... yet to be done.. and the feed to carb is the square block and hard line hidden behind the crummy wires... this whole area needs some TLC...
Wrapping electrical cables around fuel pipes.... Seriously??


I am planning to remove the hard line that runs up the front side of the block. Based on what I have read, it adds to the heat soak of the fuel.
I am planning a braided line from that point, up to a pressure regulator then the fuel sensor of the Zemco, then to carb..
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Old 10-18-2012, 09:19 PM   #189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
Not fitted it yet Brad... It will go in when I do the fuel tank and lines..

On my 84, there is no return from the carb, only from the fuel pump...
So I think we should be good...
I in fact took this pic yesterday while I was crawling about under there, that proves it...
Feed from tank is the one with the new pipe and good clamp on... which I did recently... return is the crap worm clamp and mushy pipe... yet to be done.. and the feed to carb is the square block and hard line hidden behind the crummy wires... this whole area needs some TLC...
Wrapping electrical cables around fuel pipes.... Seriously??


I am planning to remove the hard line that runs up the front side of the block. Based on what I have read, it adds to the heat soak of the fuel.
I am planning a braided line from that point, up to a pressure regulator then the fuel sensor of the Zemco, then to carb..
That's really odd, I'm almost positive that our 84 310 has a fuel pump return line and even the 74 Argosy has a return line. Here is a picture of the Argosy before I pulled the 350 out of it.

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Ignore the red circle. Take a look at the fuel pump.

I'm wondering if someone plugged your return line?
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Old 10-18-2012, 09:49 PM   #190
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Confused about your comment Brad...
The two rubber pipes on left of pic are:
Upper left thicker pipe is from tank feed.
Lower left thinner pipe with worm clamp is fuel return line.
Mid right side square lump is feed to carb... union is hidden in shadow, but hard pipe emerges from behind and heads up.
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Old 10-18-2012, 09:58 PM   #191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
Confused about your comment Brad...
The two rubber pipes on left of pic are:
Upper left thicker pipe is from tank feed.
Lower left thinner pipe with worm clamp is fuel return line.
Mid right side square lump is feed to carb... union is hidden in shadow, but hard pipe emerges from behind and heads up.
Well you have a right to be confused! So am I

You can tell I'm really tired (I'm in Pasco WA but my body is still on east coast time). I miss interpreted your comment where you said you had no return line from the carb, I read that as return from pump which after looking closer at your picture you obviously do have.

Where do you plan on mounting the flow sensor?

I'll go to bed now so you won't get any more confusing posts from me this evening
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Old 10-19-2012, 11:07 AM   #192
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No worries Brad!

Ok, here is my plan..
Remove the hard pipe from fuel pump to carb. Then use a small 180deg U shaped hard pipe/adaptor kinda like this, or whatever has the fittings I need.

This will point the pipe away from the motor, and toward the chassis rail.
Then into a high quality braided SS flex pipe, which will go upward onto the pass side of the doghouse wall.
There it will go into an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, with filter kinda like this one..

I like these, or similar because you can see the fuel flowing... or not if that is the case, and also see the filter condition.

This will smooth the flow, and there it will go into the fuel flow sensor for the Zemco. As this area is above the RH exhaust, this little setup will be housed in a sheet metal box that is insulated below... but open at the top, so when you remove the doghouse you can see it.... but the doghouse closes over it...
From there, another SS braided line feeds the carb inlet which is on the RH side also.

This might sound odd... but this is axactly how I had it set-up on my Mini in Europe... and if I can do that in that... then this should be cake!
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Old 10-19-2012, 01:25 PM   #193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
No worries Brad!

Ok, here is my plan..
Remove the hard pipe from fuel pump to carb. Then use a small 180deg U shaped hard pipe/adaptor kinda like this, or whatever has the fittings I need.

This will point the pipe away from the motor, and toward the chassis rail.
Then into a high quality braided SS flex pipe, which will go upward onto the pass side of the doghouse wall.
There it will go into an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, with filter kinda like this one..

I like these, or similar because you can see the fuel flowing... or not if that is the case, and also see the filter condition.

This will smooth the flow, and there it will go into the fuel flow sensor for the Zemco. As this area is above the RH exhaust, this little setup will be housed in a sheet metal box that is insulated below... but open at the top, so when you remove the doghouse you can see it.... but the doghouse closes over it...
From there, another SS braided line feeds the carb inlet which is on the RH side also.

This might sound odd... but this is axactly how I had it set-up on my Mini in Europe... and if I can do that in that... then this should be cake!
I'm almost afraid of posting anything, who knows what I'll write this time

I read the spec on the fuel flow sensor and it needs to be kept below 200F. Considering the pump is pretty darn close to the headers that makes it difficult.

Your plan seems sound from what I see. I plan on installing mine on the Argosy but what I'll do for the time being is open up the dog house on the 310 and see if I can find a similar means of mounting. I do have several of the steel pipes that run from the fuel pump to the carburetor so I've got something to start with. Possibly use a tubing bender to get the initial routing where I want it.

When do you plan on installing yours?
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Old 10-19-2012, 02:31 PM   #194
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Lets drop this conversation over onto my thread Brad...
Will answer you there!
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Old 09-06-2014, 12:04 PM   #195
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1994 Classic 360, Cummins Diesel Pusher from our 2.5 week road trip in August 2014. Loaded for the trip with all accessories food, full water tank, and the toad was packed full as well. We refueled consistently at 1/2 a tank, but often around 3/4 of a tank. .

4,018 miles through the following states (shown abbreviated w/bold denoting overnight stays) KS-MO-OK-TX-LA-MS-AL-FL-GA-TN-KY-OH-IN-IL-MO-KS towing a 2,500lbs SW2.

The gray and black water tanks were empty to the first stop in MO. They were empty to TX. They were half-full to FL. They were Full to GA where we dumped, refueled, had front tires replaced. Empty to OH. Empty to IN. Full to MO, and empty to KS.

Terrain was flat except the following states:
1. Mountainous in TN
2. Hilly in MO, TX, GA, KY, IN, and KS (yes Kansas is hilly on the east side)

Additives used throughout the power train (I put these in all my vehicles regardless of age, but I buy used vehicles. I also see about a 10-15% higher fuel economy than others with the same vehicle. I know some people think additives are snake oil, this is just what I do.):
1. Lucas power steering stop leak.
2. Lucas transmission treatment.
3. Engine Stop Leak/no Smoke

Total gallons pumped: 362.692

Results: 11.07827 average MPG.

We plan to do another trip without the toad, and will post the results when it comes along.
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Old 05-29-2015, 04:43 AM   #196
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Motor Home Mileage

We just made a quick run from Colorado to Michigan in the 95 classic 360. 1256 miles on just under 100 gallons. Winds were light and mostly on the tail. All interstate and running the speed limit - 70 to 75 mph.

Interesting to see diesel actually cheaper than regular again. Paid $2.65 and $2.73.
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Old 05-29-2015, 08:49 AM   #197
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454

454 have alway been known for consistent fuel mileage you run a 7/16 fuel hose to the curb. There only so much fuel can go though it I had one in s tow truck went to Houston to pickup a suburban on the way down 55-to60 loaded on way back never below 70mph got 10 goin10 coming back
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Old 06-13-2015, 05:45 AM   #198
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Been a long time since diesel was cheaper than regular. Wonder if it's going to stay this way?
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Old 02-14-2017, 06:36 AM   #199
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Interstate mileage

Trip high of 20.3 with mostly tailwind, trip low of 17.1 with headwind. Most times in the 18's. Good tank range.
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Old 02-14-2017, 09:07 AM   #200
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Attachment 240554

Been a long time since diesel was cheaper than regular. Wonder if it's going to stay this way?
What I'm seeing in your image is that diesel is about right and regular is way too expensive. Regular here (Florida) is about $2.20.
So, diesel isn't cheaper, regular is pricier.

Oops, two year old thread.
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