Generator Problems

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally posted by thenewkid64

Peter, How many nickels do I need to save?

2k for an Onan plus install
2300 for the Honda plus more install

[thenewkid64]

By giving the needle valve (Proper term?) that 1/4 turn it seems to run smoother and did not hic-up. I needed to shut it down to not incur the wrath of the neighbors. I will restart it after work tommrow and see how it does. I like the idea on the nail polish, I will need to use some carb cleaner on it first as there is a bit of fuel/grease on the outside of the carb from prior work.

The manual calls for a certain number of turns out, I do not know how many turns out it is right now. I suppose I can continue to lean it out, and put it under load to test.

Does that sound like a good plan?

[FrankR]

Some say the eyes are the window to one's soul. Well, in small engines, the sparkplugs tell a tale. After reading all the posts, my guess is that the carb has problems. Not major, just a little looking and trying.
Black carbon on plugs means only one thing......too rich a fuel mix and fuel not burning. With new plugs, before starting engine, turn the main metering jet into a firmly closed position. Back out same screw 1 1/2 turns. Find and observe auto choke rod and solenoid position. Just for this test, remove the hoses from the carb, so as to see the carb inlet and choke blade. For this test, disconnect choke linkage to carb. Start the engine and operate the choke carb linkage manually. Observe the exhaust color to witness if the exhaust is black or just slightly grey. The running of the gen set is tested with NO electrical load. If the engine does run well, with no misfiring, connect gen set to a load as the air conditioner.. If now the gen set missed and struggles, screw the main jet out at 1/2 turn at a time and observe engine operation. Choke linkage should still be not connected. Later, after some 10 hours of operation, the plugs should be pulled to determine if spark plug range is correct. A hotter plug starts faster but is replaced more frequently. allow engine to cool and replace air filter and hoses. Operate choke linkage and use some PB Blaster. After all is cool test run engine again. One of the weakest systems of small gen sets are the points. There are several companies who make a solid state points replacement kit. No points no problems. Points are 100 year old technology.
I'll be looking for the results of the tests....... Frank

[john hd]

brett

sounds good, lean it out under load fully warmed up.

turn the jet in until it stumbles, then back it out a quarter to half a turn.

unless it is an air screw! then you need to do the reverse!

the manual should tell exactly how to tune it.

good luck!

john

[FrankR]

Small domestic gen sets are NOT very hi tech. The designs are mostly of the early 1930 farm machinery. The engine designs are called flat heads with the valves located in the block. There have been several design changes as the over head valve and later the over head camshaft. The very good engines are made by Honda, Kawasaki, Yamaha, to name a few. These engine run longer and stronger with less maintenence and parts. I'm sure the small engine makers are beginning to recognize need for change. The Hondas and others have no points, but a flywheel magneto system.
I have a 2KW and a6KW Honda. Those motorcycle engines make good power for a gen set....They are magic machines. Both are worth nearly what I paid.

[thenewkid64]

Here is an update.

Started the gen set and it runs fine, I waited until it was warmed up and I went in and cranked on the AC, Refer, and univolt.

The generator ran fine, and then after 5 min. it would hic-up. I leaned it out a bit more and the rough running got worse, so I riched it back up. The set screw is still not back where it was when all of this started. I am going to try a new fuel filter, I have an in line prefilter that is kust 2 clamps to change. I think the stutter may be a lack of fuel issue???

Frank,

The points are due for adjustment based on the run hours but the placard on the generator calls for .021 as a set point???

You mention .017 in a prior post. Is there something I need to know regarding a diffrent point gap that MFG spec????
TIA

[FrankR]

Just typing answers is not good for me or you. Did ya try the info in last note?? Typing is not my best skill, so please humor me and tell if other offering helped. To make a definitive statement is based on what you perceive as a .017 point gap. The most accurate method is with a gage called a no-go gage. This gage has a thickness too big and near the end of the gage a thickness too small. With point settings there many factors. Most points burn and transfer material from the stationary contact to the moveable point. Usually the points must be filed or replacedto get the best spacing.
Based on your most recent test, Me thinks a fuel pump test is in order. Use some fuel hose and tee a 15 psi gage into the fuel line between the pump and carb. Fuel pressure should be about 3 psi....

[thenewkid64]

Here is the update.

After reading all of the above advice and getting more good info via PM I determined it was the carb fer sure.

The only problem is that the carb as a new assembly is NLA (No longer available). Ebay to the rescue! I was able to get a NOS (New old Stock) carb in the original box! I went with a new one because I could, and I was limited by time to attempt a rebuild. I am considering rebuilding the one I took off and maintaining it as a spare. Just my way of trying to be like peterh .

The carb swap was easy, the adjustments were a pain. I have the factory service manual, so I knew what to do. It required a combination of idle set speed, fuel metering adjustment, govenor adjustment and adjusting the points.

Other than the points any time you changed one carburator setting you have to readjust the other two too. 4 hours and a few burned knuclkes and it now purrs like it should and I only lose 5 volts from minimal load to full load. It will get a workout next week on the way to Willamsburg!

Thanks for all of the help!