engine dies, during warm up and after starting?

[John H.]

Could be Auretrvr, but cold start or hot ! after I restart the engine it will run all day long

and it runs GOOD

When we get home from New Jersy, about the tenth of January

1. replace ALL fuel filters ! they are in the coach a waiting even the carb filter

2. Pull the distributor and check all as many have suggested. also I will purchase a duplicate of ALL electrical parts including the ignition module and fresh grease

3. I will also check ALL vacuum lines and the suspect choke ??? for proper operation

Then I will give you all that have helped a complete report !!!

Thank you and Happy new years

John

[ROBERT CROSS]

John,

Sounds like you got most base's covered...awaiting up-date.

Ain't Stream'n FUN!!!

[John H.]

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

John,

Sounds like you got most base's covered...awaiting up-date.

Ain't Stream'n FUN!!!

thank you Robert, you always have sound and well thought out advice

your mention of, If it sounds like the fuel pump is chasing you ? Hit Home for sure.

Happy new Years every one

[John H.]

I started the 345 cold today, tapped the peddle to set the choke ! started right off and DID not die after 60 seconds or so like it did Wed. AM after we got home from NJ.

So Wednesday I figured the 1st. thing would be to check the Carburetor visually and check all the vacuum lines. The vacuum lines all Looked good and tight connections were confirmed ! Like many of you suggested !!! thank you !

there is a 12 volt plug in conectionright in front of the choke adjustment knob assembly that was bent in some and I straightend it out but a non issue I believe.

Prety dirty exterior ??? So I sprayed a can of Electric Motor coil cleaner that I had on all of the exterior all the way around ! and especially the Auto Choke area where it seemed Gummed up good. I wiped it down and sprayed agin then after it dried I coated Everything, Linkage and All with a good coating of My favorite WD40 !!

conected everything back up and ran it for 20 minutes or so to clean out the cleaner and WD40 and warm everything up !

When I started her Up this AM, Wow, Just like it suposed to be !!!

I did take her into town to top off the gass and re fill the propane tank and she started and ran smooth right through every time ! So, when it warms up a Bit ???

I will replace all of the new fuel filters and be ready for the road.

Now because of all the talk about a spare parts list from may !!! I thought I was doing good ???

I also stopped by the Hubbards Auto parts store and gave them a grocery parts List.

1. Starter Motor
2. Alternator
3. New belts, serpintine and Air conditioning belt ! Is there another 89 345 ???
4. coil, and all else except the actual distributor itself ??? but everything that goes inside. My Plug wires are H.D. and new 2,000 Mile on them

5. Radiator hoses Upper and lower plus the short one lower.

6. relay coil under the dog house to the front right.

7. Engine oil and filter, enough to do an oil change !

8. 2 qts dextron Transmission Oil and a tube of some RED they recomendid It is In !

9. Tools and Jacks galore !!! All new tires and an allighment

So Off to
florida we go tommorow, Friday afternoon !!! Can not waite !!! ,

[ROBERT CROSS]

Great news John...glad it wasn't a serious mechanical problem.

Looks like you have a pretty good "trip kit". (pantyhose= short term belt) Don't wait to replace those belts and keep the old for an emergency. A selection of stainless hose clamps can come in handy too and don't forget a quality roll of quack tape & wd40.

Stream Safe....have fun.

[boatdoc]

Hi John;
With as much as I hate to tell you the hurting truth, there are issues that all of you owners of motor homes are facing and will continue to do so unless you address the problems with E-10 fuel.

Today's fuel is laced with 10% of ethanol. Boating industry in which I am heavily involved faced that problem the first year the fuel was introduced. The problem relates to length of time that fuel is stored in your tank. In the automobile which is used daily fuel is rotated constantly with refueling. This is not the case with boats which go into winter storage for months. Untreated E-10 fuel after couple of months goes through a phase separation. The alcohol and the moisture which alcohol attracts separates and sinks to the bottom clogging carbs and injectors.
Eventually it becomes a paste like white sediment.

The remedy and prevention is found only by treating the stored fuel in advance at fill up. If you know that the fuel in your motor home may not be used up in next two months treat it with StarTron Enzyme Fuel Treatment. This product is made by Star Brite specifically for preventing fuel separation phase. 8 Oz bottle treats 128 gallons and retails for $13.75 and it can be purchased from most boat suppliers. Those of you who use their motor homes very frequently may not experience those issues but as soon as you place untreated fuel it into storage you will know what I am talking about. Since the introduction of E-10 fuel, my boat bussiness has cleaned and rebuilt more carbs in past three years that we did the previous forty years. Clogged up carbs also cause the engine to run in lean condition which causes damage due to burned out valves from excessive heat.

Carbureated engines experiencing any running or lack of power issues need to have carb's cleaned out. Injected engines should be treated with injector cleaning additive. E-10 fuel dissolves fiberglass fuel tanks in boats. It dissolves non alcohol resistant fuel lines and carb's components.
Take it for what is worth, we have been through it all. Do not allow your fuel to sit in your tank untreated for prolonged periods of time. Same goes for Diesel Engines which should be treated with Bio Diesel additive.
Thanks, "Boatdoc"

[Auretrvr]

Revisiting this thread since my '83 started dying at idle at stoplights...

Engine starts and runs beautifully but on slowing to a stop will occasionally just quit--and start right up immediately and run fine again. Filters, ignition module and engine fuel pump were replaced in 2010.

This post about the damage by E10 fuel really seems to hit home. I did not treat my fuel and have several times had to buy E10 because it was the only type available.

Do you have tips for those of us who ignored common sense and now have to deal with the consequences?

Sounds like replacing the filters and treating the gas would be for starters, right?

Thanks!

[Waipio Rim]

I wrapped the hard fuel line from the mechanical fuel pump to the carburetor with header wrap to get rid of a similar problem. The line was apparently soaking up too much heat. No symptoms on our last trip, but our next one will be in warmer weather...

[tommyt]

sounds like a vapor lock. But I haven't heard of a vehicle doing that in a long time. I would try changing your full filters first.

[Auretrvr]

Last summer on a trip we got more and more frequent stalls and almost were stranded on I-80 with a dead engine because of this:

The contacts in the ignition switch were corroded and brittle; when turned on they gradually lost their ability to conduct and the switch got hotter and hotter.

Thankfully, at one stall stop in West Des Moines we picked up a switch and an ignition module thinking it might be one or the other. It was the switch. I changed it out at the next interchange and suddenly those mysterious stall-outs went away.

This is one reason I love my '83. It keeps on challenging my brain.