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Old 11-08-2020, 12:11 PM   #21
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No. Definitely not. If RV Park faucet is not leaking when you arrive but does when you hook up, then are just a few issues to check:
Is source faucet screwed completely open?
Is any hose connection not tightened fully?
Is any hose fitting cross-threaded?
Did you lose hose gasket or need new one, sometimes can just turn over?
Is there a hole in the hose?
Carry a few new hose seal gasket/o-ring/washers, whatever you may call that rubber, plastic, silicon seal in hose female end..
Be Safe.
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Old 11-08-2020, 12:36 PM   #22
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Leaky Fauvets

I’ve had two locations now that I used Teflon tape on the campground spigot to shore up slow drip leaks. I also discovered in one situation my hose’s rubber washer had been bent over And was not sealing completely. I like the doubling up of the washer solution as well when unable to completely seat the hose.
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Old 11-08-2020, 02:45 PM   #23
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As the years go by, it seems hose washers last shorter and shorter times. I guess they are cheap junk. I have extra washers and channel locks ready. I notice hoses don’t last as long either. Ten years ago hoses would last 5 or more years. Now they seem to last two or three.

The o ring seals on the sewer hoses also seem to last shorter times. Ever had the cap on the black and grey tank drain refuse to release—a giant channel locks can help there and for a lot of other things that stick.

The type of spigot at campgrounds referred to above as having a handle that lifts up and down is a frost free one and in this area is called a “hydrant”. The valve sealing it is below the frost line and lifts up and down as you operate the handle. It is only frost free when disconnected from a hose. When connected to a water hose, the water in the pipe has no where to go when frozen except to break things. When the handle is closed, it would seem the water in the pipe must drain out somehow. Frost free hose bibs for residential properties have a similar system and do drain out if installed correctly. The hydrants go straight down to a buried water line; the residential hose bibs are horizontal dipping down toward the hose connection. I have had to replace them when not installed to drain when not in use because someone who thought they were a plumber didn’t make sure they were lower at the faucet to drain.
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Old 11-08-2020, 02:53 PM   #24
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Carrying Water puts several pounds extra on your trailer.
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Old 11-08-2020, 03:01 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by susans69 View Post
Carrying Water puts several pounds extra on your trailer.
True, but how much? A full water tank adds several hundred pounds and compared to the weight of the trailer is not very much. Also, since the tank is low in the trailer, it lowers the center of gravity of the trailer and is slightly safer.

Since the water at a campground may not be very good or may not work, having some water in the fresh water tank seems a good idea. And if you stop on your way somewhere, water to flush the toilet is nice.
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Old 11-08-2020, 03:13 PM   #26
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Teflon Tape

A little bit of teflon tape is also a good idea. Also don't overtighten with channel locks. Hand tighten and a quarter turn with channel locks shouild be just right.
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Old 11-08-2020, 03:21 PM   #27
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..................... The other "leak" that happens is caused by the vacuum breaker/anti siphon valve attached to the hose bib outlet at many parks, public and private. Many jurisdictions require to eliminate cross contamination between water supply and trailer. Depending on the brand, they can spit water from the valve when you turn on and off water in your trailer.
Agreed
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Old 11-08-2020, 06:39 PM   #28
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My water connection starts with a pressure regulator direct to the park water supply. Next is a split “y” to provide for domestic water to the trailer and a secondary hose for misc uses, then a vacuum breaker / backflow preventer on each of the two outflows and finally the hoses per the above.

My experience has been that the part supply rarely is leaking.

Currently, one of my vacuum breaker / backflow preventers is leaking. I’ve replaced all the rubber hose washers and used Teflon tape but one still leaks. Getting replaced before our next trip.
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Old 11-08-2020, 06:59 PM   #29
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Smile

Teflon Tape!

When you’ve checked the washers and the pressure regulator and screwed everything on good and double checked it all, go for the Teflon tape. You only need a little bit and it helps keep the little drip to no drip.

I have also found leaks to be the exception, but I swear by Teflon tape!!
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Old 11-09-2020, 10:45 AM   #30
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I have read different conclusions on teflon tape. Some claim is only makes it easier to tighten the threads. I think the tape probably does seal a little better, but considering how thin it is, not much. I have noticed that plastic fittings leak less often because they are flexible and can bend to each other. I agree not to over tighten anything with a channel locks or any other wrench, but just how much to tighten comes from experience tightening things. Sometimes a quarter turn, sometimes more or less depending how strong you are in tightening by hand.
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Old 11-10-2020, 07:33 AM   #31
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Teflon pipe tape is a seal, reduces space between threads, helps to close gaps, or irregularity, it may help ease to tighten. Be sure to wind on male end in correct direction so when tightening does not unwind. Be Safe.
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Old 11-10-2020, 08:10 AM   #32
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Campgrounds care for their plumbing because they have to pay for the water.
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Old 11-10-2020, 08:54 AM   #33
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Yep! Not unusual to have leaky faucets at campgrounds..Keep channel locks handy along with hose gaskets...I keep a supply along with my channel locks in the left rear storage bay where I keep my power cord also...if you have don't have a "twin bed" configuration, you likely don't have those 2 extra compartments on either side for storage.
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Old 11-11-2020, 07:48 AM   #34
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I come from a boating background where leaving a pressure hose connected could be disastrous. I always use my tanks with my 12v pump. It's a long term habit but certainly nothing wrong with it. I've only been RVing extensively for the last 10 years so I'm no standard but I've never once in that time connected to pressure water and I've not suffered.
I don’t hookup to water pressure either. Learned this from a highly respected RV tech who also has lived full time in an RV. Much easier on the plumbing.
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Old 11-11-2020, 07:56 AM   #35
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I don’t hookup to water pressure either. Learned this from a highly respected RV tech who also has lived full time in an RV. Much easier on the plumbing.
A quality (watts) pressure regulator at the park spigot fixes this concern.
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Old 11-11-2020, 09:02 AM   #36
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I don’t hookup to water pressure either. Learned this from a highly respected RV tech who also has lived full time in an RV. Much easier on the plumbing.

Really? Don't Airstreams come with built in pressure regulators? I have a $50K trailer purchased used in '09 and have camped in it many times since then. Always hook up to camp water when available, no issues what so ever. This post is like others in that people step up and get an Airstream but won't use the toilet, won't drink water from the gray tank, won't use the LP feature on the fridge and now....won't hook up to camp provided water. Just can't get my head around any of this.
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Old 11-11-2020, 09:06 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by aftermath View Post
Really? Don't Airstreams come with built in pressure regulators? I have a $50K trailer purchased used in '09 and have camped in it many times since then. Always hook up to camp water when available, no issues what so ever. This post is like others in that people step up and get an Airstream but won't use the toilet, won't drink water from the gray tank, won't use the LP feature on the fridge and now....won't hook up to camp provided water. Just can't get my head around any of this.
My '83 certainly doesn't

I've also upgraded to household pex, so it doesn't exactly worry me
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Old 11-11-2020, 09:13 AM   #38
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I'm a newbie and almost every campsite water spigot I've used has leaked. Is it best to just fill up the fresh water tank as needed rather than keep it connected and constantly leaking water from the spigot?
Redundant....Do all AS's leak?

We always use the FW tank.
Fill as needed and NEVER leave the pump on 24/7.
Off at night and when AS is un-attended.

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Cross-threaded and finally provided us with some 3am drama.😖
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Old 11-11-2020, 09:48 AM   #39
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to each his own...

Interesting how this thread has "morphed"! The newer AS's do come with a pressure regulator built in... I used to use one on the hose with my first AS a 2006' 25' Safari...then I was told it already had one built in. I still used it on my hose from campground faucet on next 2 AS's until this 2017 28' model. No more do I worry about that...I do always run the hose a bit clean prior to hook up to see the PSI before connecting to AS freshwater inlet, but I use the built in reducer...never any issues. The leaks at the faucet however, do occur from campground to campground. Like many have said, a pair of channel locks is pretty handy.

I use my on-board water only when boondocking or traveling. I always try to turn pump off when not in use. I also have a water filter in line below my kitchen sink, but still, I don't drink out of the fresh tank too often. I carry 2- 3 gal. water containers of fresh water for drinking; one in the TV and one inside the AS with a manual Dolphin pump for drinking water or coffee...works for us.
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Old 11-11-2020, 03:30 PM   #40
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I don't know when Airstream started too install build-in pressure regulators, but I'm pretty sure our 2008 Safari did not have one. I find it hard to believe that would not have been on a list of features and in the owner's manual.

The trouble with pressure regulators is that the pressure may be so low that a shower is more like a few drips. If the pressure is high at the CG, we use a regulator, otherwise, no.
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