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Haoleman · 08-10-2007, 10:33 AM

1985 AIRSTREAM 345, 345 Airstream 34.5 foot long coach. Many updates in the last several years. Interior, new maple pergo floors, new window treatments, new toilet, new barrel chairs new sound system w 8 new speakers, sub amp and head unit. new hot water heater. Mech updates, rebuilt trans w allison torque converter, trans cooler,Holly TBI fuel injection replaced the carberator, new front shocks, 2 new tires, full tune. Sleeps 5, full bed in the rear, dinette for one and couch for 2. Ceder closets, floor safe for your jewels, Back up camera, leveling jacks, remote spotlight. trailer hitch w brake controler. this was a $100,000+ when new. Power leveling jacks and Kohler 7000 watt generator.find more info on these coaches at Fred's Airstream Archives - Airstream and Argosy Travel Trailers and MotorHomes. Very cool. 14500 obo.

I found this 345 for sale in Ill. Has had a bunch of stuff done to it. Asking $14,000. I am planning to go look at it. What should I be wary of if I want to make an offer?

Thanks,
Terry

swebster · 08-10-2007, 12:39 PM

Terry,
Looks like a pretty 345. There is a motorhome checklist on the site here: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f160...ses-18916.html which is a good start.

Personally, once you get past the coach, skin, leaks, interior condition I would start looking for major service items:

Engine Compression (Leakdown if Possible)
Plug Condition
Oil in Air Cleaner
Coolant in Oil
Oil in Coolant
Trans Fluid (Clean, Red and doens't smell burnt)
Generator Functions
Both ACs Function
Furnaces Function
Fridge Functions
Jacks Function

Once the major system are checked out then it would be normal service items like brakes, tires, batteries, 110V system, 12V system etc.

I also would look hard for "hacks". Many of spend more time chasing gremlins created by the previous owners than factory service items.

Also make sure you give it a good long test drive (obvious I know but I'm amazed that some people have purchased and paid for a motorhome before driving it)

Keep us posted on your progress.

swebster · 08-10-2007, 12:40 PM

Oh - and if it's all OK...That is a great price.

Minnie's Mate · 08-10-2007, 12:57 PM

If all checks out and you purchase, be sure and post interior photos, too!

guy99 · 08-10-2007, 01:27 PM

Some things to look at:
Distributor, plug wires (they tend to get burned), radiator, water pump, fan clutch, dash air, cruise control, heater (check coolant lines - there is a pair of lines which run back to the water heater), shut off valve. Dash Gages. Front and rear suspension air bags, suspension compressor, shocks and steering stabilizer, tires, brakes (master cylinder, lines, calipers) hydroboost, power steering seals and lines, steering box, all front and rear suspension components, tag axle - including brakes, bearings, and torsion. Levelers including pump, jacks, control system and indicators. Vacuum step (if it has one). Horns.

Check your chassis fuse panel for "crispy" wires and bad smells.

That's the motorhome specific stuff I think of, you also need to check out all the RV systems (Plumbing, water pump, tanks, furnace, water heater, refrigeration, roof air, stove, oven, microwave, sound floor, windows work and seal properly, vents operate, etc.

Haoleman · 08-10-2007, 03:51 PM

Here's a few more photos. Sorry they are so big but shows details very good

Only ding I could see. Have seen much worse. I could live with it. I hate to be the first one to ding a vehicle.

A few more questions. How good is the access to do a compression test?
What pressures should I be looking at and differential? I am not familiar with 454s (ford owner here)

A quick overview on how to check suspension (airbags tag axle ) etc.

Given the 55,000 miles it has What type of gas mileage do you guys get in the flatlands? I wonder if the fuel injection will improve it any?

I have read other forums that say Airstream motorhomes are not very good. Are they refering to the later model units rather than the classics? And why.

Thanks,
Terry

vswingfield · 08-10-2007, 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Haoleman

Given the 55,000 miles it has What type of gas mileage do you guys get in the flatlands? I wonder if the fuel injection will improve it any?

Thanks,
Terry

Hi Terry,

In my experience, if you want to move a big train, you have to throw a lot of logs on the fire. It will never match a hybrid.

I’m a trailer rather than a MH guy, at least for now. Everything looks good form the other posts. As a former mechanic, driveline problems are not that big a deal. It is coachwork that is difficult to do yourself and therefore expensive. Plug wires? Dirt-cheap and a few minutes work. Buy the best. Still dirt-cheap!

Concentrate on the RV systems. A furnace, AC, or refrigerator would really get your attention.

Having said that, you could say that you could buy one of those much cheaper than you could rebuild an engine in the MH. True, but you must think of the MH as a trailer and a tow vehicle put together. Think of buying a new fridge, furnace, and rebuilding the engine!

My experience is that I prefer buying vehicles with good bodies, coachwork in this case, and bad drive trains and rebuilding them myself. The initial purchase price reflects the non-running status, offsetting the work of which I can control the quality.

Given the low mileage of this unit, give it a long test drive. You may get a great deal.

Best of luck!

Vaughan

swebster · 08-12-2007, 09:43 PM

Quote:

A few more questions. How good is the access to do a compression test?
What pressures should I be looking at and differential? I am not familiar with 454s (ford owner here)

Access is there, mainly through the front wheels wells (tires can stay on). This is also a good time to check for burnt plug wires and carbon around the exhaust manifolds.

Like any engine you should be looking for consistancy across all cylinders. Mine consistantly shows approx 160 psi in all 8 on a cold compression. I do a compression seasonally.

Quote:

A quick overview on how to check suspension (airbags tag axle ) etc.

There should be bags in the front coil springs and they should be holding 55 psi each. The rears are truck style and should hold about 100 psi. You canno drive the motorhome more than 30 mph if the rear bags are no inflated. This is important if the current title holder doesn't know this (used RV dealer) as it can damage the tag axels.

Also, there is a compressor for the rear airbags in the back of the coach...make sure it works as it's expensive to replace - cheaper to rebuild.

Quote:

Given the 55,000 miles it has What type of gas mileage do you guys get in the flatlands? I wonder if the fuel injection will improve it any?

People here seem to be between 6.5 mpg and 9 mpg. I typically get between 8 (towing a 1700# super beetle) and 9 not towing and light. Mine has a stock carb, stock ignition, headers, free flow mufflers and high temp plug wires.

I would think TBI (or MPI) would improve mileage and starting/idling characteristics.

Quote:

I have read other forums that say Airstream motorhomes are not very good. Are they refering to the later model units rather than the classics? And why.

Not sure what they don't like. The later model are smaller than same year competitors. They were still built on the P30 chassis which only supported something like 18,000 in it's final config. Most other white box mfgs moved to the W22/24 which allowed them to build 38' triple slide models on a gas chassis.

Perhaps you can share more specific concerns about posters comments. For me, owning a little motorhome that gets questions from people everywhere it goes that doesn't leak and everything still works after 20+ years is pretty cool. Add to that the availability and cheap prices for parts and you have a winner.