Originally posted by ALANSD yeah the nut came off after a short soaking with penetratin lube and a breaker bar. The front nuts go throught a panel behind the bumper, they came off no problem. Now the old stabilizer is hanging there with the bolt through the housing of the steering assembly. I will check HD for a torch to use, and my neighbor who has a compressor. I might try to screw on the nut and beat on it, but I probably need a sledge. My hammer doesn't have the weight.
I have soaked the thing with lube tonight and hope it will crack tommorow.
As for the new one, it would need a big vise or spring compressor or something to move it. I tried to use my floor jack and put it somewhere but it was too long to stick anywhere under the frame of the airstream. After I get the old one off I will deal with that. Then its on to the shocks!!
Ohhhh it's the taper stuck in the drag link? Ohhh that can be a booger!
Did the new stabalizer come with that part?
If there is room I have a ball joint press that might do the trick. We will have the cut the back side off with the Sawzall so the joint press can go on it if it comes to it. Will need at least 12 inches of clearence on the nut side to get the ball joint press in there.
Here is a trick with tapers like tie rod ends and what I think your dealing with. If you can exert some pressure in the direction the taper needs to go to be removed you can pop them out pretty easy.
With pressure on it you hit the side of the part with the taper seat. The shock that will be transitted through the metal will cause it to pop loose. Using that trick I have never had a ball joint or tierod take me more then 10 minutes to get loose.
__________________
1959 22' Caravanner
1988 R20 454 Suburban.
Atlanta, GA
Alan,
Listen to these guys and don't beat on the nut, as tempting as it may be. You can damage the drag link.
I used a good bearing puller and a few sharp blows on the draglink. Once it falls out you wonder why it seemed so hard.
__________________
1994 30' Excella Front Kitchen Trailer
1990 25' Excella Travel trailer
1992 350LE Classic Touring Coach
AIR #13
for the panel of experts- here is a shot of the problem piece, and the rplacement to follow just to keep me on the right page here. I will try to exert some pressure on the bottom of the taper and see if it will shake loose with a hit or two, and then go the heat route or gear puller if I can get my hands on one.
Go to Autozone get a pickle fork, $8 or $10. It will pop right out. If you have an old trash big screwdriver and can fit it between the nut and arm it also might work.
cut the narrow threaded end off flush, center punch it, then drill upwards to the wide end. ream it out until you have about a 1/4 to 3/8" hole most of the way through it.
take a drift punch that fits loose in the hole you just drilled and tap it out.
by removing most of the metal inside the taper by drilling, you will have weakened it enough to collapse and come out.
this is the way i had to go with my p.o.s. jeep wrangler (actually a dodge dart with a transfercase).
Originally posted by ALANSD for the panel of experts- here is a shot of the problem piece, and the rplacement to follow just to keep me on the right page here. I will try to exert some pressure on the bottom of the taper and see if it will shake loose with a hit or two, and then go the heat route or gear puller if I can get my hands on one.
Ok Get a crow bar and put on end on the top of the suspension where the spring is. Get the middle up against where the nut would have been or you can even put the nut on lose. While pushing up on that exposed stud give the cast arm a good hard smack with a hammer where the bolt is going through it. Should pop right out after a couple pops with the hammer. Small 2lb sledge seems to be the ticket for me.
__________________
1959 22' Caravanner
1988 R20 454 Suburban.
Atlanta, GA
threw in the towel on this one, my back can only take so long laying on the concrete.....and too many mosquitoes here..
got my damaged exhaust pipe and muffler replaced, and while there the technician put on the Bilstein shocks and steering stabilizer for one hour extra labor. The old shocks were just like the steering shock mushy and loose. Now it is tight as a drum and the steering feels great.
Also I now have 2 sets of shocks for later model Airstreams 1985 on- (motorhomes) - of the Bilstein 2645 that I could part with if anyone needs them. PM me and we can arrange something.
These are also used as the steering stabilizer on all 74 and on Airstream classics mh's.
yeah the nut came off after a short soaking with penetratin lube and a breaker bar. The front nuts go throught a panel behind the bumper, they came off no problem. Now the old stabilizer is hanging there with the bolt through the housing of the steering assembly. I will check HD for a torch to use, and my neighbor who has a compressor. I might try to screw on the nut and beat on it, but I probably need a sledge. My hammer doesn't have the weight.
I have soaked the thing with lube tonight and hope it will crack tommorow.
As for the new one, it would need a big vise or spring compressor or something to move it. I tried to use my floor jack and put it somewhere but it was too long to stick anywhere under the frame of the airstream. After I get the old one off I will deal with that. Then its on to the shocks!!
Alan,
How did you finally get the new Bilstein stabilizer to compress enough to install? I just received the one (#BE3-2645) from Camping world and it also is extended and will not move. Thanks for replying and help. Jim
__________________ "Property doesn't have rights, people have rights to property"
for the panel of experts- here is a shot of the problem piece, and the rplacement to follow just to keep me on the right page here. I will try to exert some pressure on the bottom of the taper and see if it will shake loose with a hit or two, and then go the heat route or gear puller if I can get my hands on one.
I had the same problem listed in this old thread. I didn't find a definitive solution to the problem. I also had the bolt holding the steering dampener stuck on. I tried the following with no success.
1. Lots of break free spray
2. Hitting with a hammer (2.5Lb sledge) many times
3. Using a jack to push directly up on the stuck bolt with wood in between.
Solution - easy!!! Pitman Arm puller tool from Autozone. Free loan tool. Didn't take to much to break lose. Please see pix.
Now, to get the bolts off inside the frame is not easy. I searched and never found a good clear solution on the Air fourms. It's to deep for a wrench. You could cut off the extension for the bumper to gain better access. However, I took a 3/8 ratchet and put a 9/16 crowfoot on it. I had to tape the ratchet to a pipe to get it into the frame. Once in the frame and on the 1st bolt I turned the steering dampener with my hand. You could use a pipe wrench or whatever to grip the dampener if tight. I've attached a pic of a crowfoot. I never used one before today. After turning the dampener I got both bolts off. I did soak them many times in break free spray. Overall removing the steering dampener is not a good experience. I plan to purchase Bilstiens since removal is difficult and I don't want to do this again.
Thanks to this information (MrJ) I went to install a set of 4 Koni FSDs and Bilstien steering damper, and had no issues! I hit all the bolts with anti seize the week before, picked up a puller tool (different design with three flexible arms) at the local auto supply shop for $12 and after some wrenching, the damper popped out. There was no way I would have got it done otherwise! I used the leveling jacks to lift up the rv, turned the wheels all the way to the right and had some room to drawn in under the wheel well. I used a tie down strap to hold the steering wheel in place so the steer safe springs did not return it to center...this way, there was no need to compress the damper. Probably around 3 hours for the whole job, and love the ride now.
Forums rock!
I was able to get a socket in the nut and hold the shaft of the damper with a channel lock as close as possible to frame in case you scratch it. The nut is a nylock and with the rubber washers there is no need to get it super tight...
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