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Old 03-06-2004, 09:05 PM   #1
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1986 34.5' Airstream 345
Louisville , Kentucky
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Removing Air Pump & Stuff

Anyone have some ideas on removing the Air Pump and it's related tubing, hoses, etc.?

I repaired my right exhaust manifold to exhaust connection today which quieted things down enough for me to hear a leak on the driver's side. Turns out is a broken tube on the "air rail" that goes into the left exhaust manifold coming in from the air pump.

I'm planning a header installation soon so can I just remove the "rail" on both side and just cap the inlets for now. I would also remove everything else related to the air pump system.

Any thoughts, suggestions, warnings, advice?

On an unrelated note...finally completed the replacements of all u joints and both carriers bearings today and ALL of my driving vibrations are gone! Yipee!
Steven Webster
1986 Airstream 345 Classic Motorhome
AIR 1760
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Old 03-06-2004, 09:20 PM   #2
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Just cap it and take out the pump. Good Luck
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Old 03-06-2004, 09:23 PM   #3
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I had also removed ours (air pump) when converting to aftermarket headers. Also removed the internal fuel pump armature trying to shave precious horsepower. For some reason, the engine still had the original fuel pump installed (unhooked from fuel lines) even though it had an electric fuel pump located on the frame rail. Now wanting to upgrade to a full 3" exhaust system from header to tip.

Used to Crew Chief for regional Late Model stock car team...would love to drop one of our all aluminum alcohol burning 500 hp engines into the rig. Talk about power to weight ratio...weighs about as much as a small block. Definately would have to beef up the tranny & drive train. Might even install the wheelie bars!)

Anything is possible with enough time and money.
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Old 03-06-2004, 10:09 PM   #4
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1993 21' Sovereign
Colfax , North Carolina
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Steven, IIRC, those pipes use 1/4" pipe thread fittings. Take the pipes off, and use pipe thread plugs, should be 4 per side, and remove the A.I.R. pump and chaeck valves and hoses. It will also make things easier to work on without all that stuff in the way.
P.S. If the fittings won't come out, break off the tubes a little above the fittings, and crimp the ends over.
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Old 03-08-2004, 07:02 PM   #5
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1985 34.5' Airstream 345
Chino , California
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 58
What is the rules where you live about smog equiptment?We have to smog our MH here in California, but they make smog legal headers thank God.
The Unleaded Zeppellin
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Old 03-09-2004, 07:49 AM   #6
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1986 34.5' Airstream 345
Louisville , Kentucky
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,861
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On again ...off again..on again

We have a VET (Vehicle Emissions Test) requirement on all vehicles in KY until last year when the state government ruled that since they were not finding any significant emissions problems from KY cars it was not improving our compliance with EPA guidlines so they shuttered all of the testing centers.

That was a good day.

Then, a local environmental group lobbied the federal government who rules that since this was an EPA program the state government could not abolish it. So it's in court now to determine if it should start up again.

In any case commercial vehicles and motorhomes over 18,000 lbs are exempt (mine is about 15,000). You can also petition for an exemption if your vehicle is out of state more than 50% of the time, or its too old, or it would cost too much to repair, or...

So I'm not sure what they are doing. I can tell you that I had my VW tested with a bad O2 sensor and a hole in the muffler smelling like sulfur....and it passed.

KY is not nearly as strict as CA so I'm going with the theory that if the MH fails I'll go for an exemption since it's out of state 80% of the time, its old, it would cost too much to repair and if the modifications improve fuel economy thats a good thing - right?
Steven Webster
1986 Airstream 345 Classic Motorhome
AIR 1760
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Old 03-10-2004, 07:23 PM   #7
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1966 26' Overlander
Woodstock , Georgia
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Georgia is a bit more lenient on motorhomes- so mine does not require emissions.
1966 overlander..sold
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