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Old 10-20-2006, 11:11 AM   #1
JBK
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Power steering problem on my "NEW" 345

Yesterday I replaced the power steering line that sprung a pinhole leak on my trip bringing her home last weekend. All went o-k, except it still squeals. I drove it about 5 miles after it blew, but only after filling the reservoir in the front access panel in front of the radiator and stopping three times to refill it.
Is there another reservoir or a way to purge the line?

Thanks in advance.

JB
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Old 10-20-2006, 11:20 AM   #2
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Most times when a line is opened it takes time to purge the air out.

I had one that took over an hour at hwy speed.
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Old 10-20-2006, 11:24 AM   #3
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Thanks, Bob.
Do you think I should just let it run at idle or drive it. I really don't like the sound of the pump squealing like that. I did jack up the front and take the weight off the steering and turn the wheel and it helped, but still is pretty squeeky.

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Old 10-20-2006, 11:28 AM   #4
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Normally you are supposed to turn the steering wheel back and forth to get the air out. You need to do this several times from maximum left to maximum right turn.
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Old 10-20-2006, 12:03 PM   #5
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What kind of engine is in this?

I drove mine quite, not to get it quite, because I had to get someplace.
I don't believe letting it idle will do much.

But if you jacked it up and go lock to lock it should have helped?
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Old 10-20-2006, 12:24 PM   #6
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Bob and Gunter:
Thanks.
It's a 454. I think I will jack it up again and just keep turning the wheel full to full.
I will repeat one question and that is; Is there is another reservoir other than the small one (about a pint) in the front of the radiator? If so, I will have to fill that also, but I need to know where it is. I did top off the master cylinder since the loss of juice in the booster also affected the brakes, but it was nearly full.
I just don't want to ruin the pump by missing a part of the procedure such as purging the line.
Another question; My seft front leverer doesn't want to retract all the way. It will come up off the ground and start to go up toward the rear but stops after going just a dew degrees. I have to push it back up myself. Any suggestions for that?


JB
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Old 10-20-2006, 01:21 PM   #7
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I'm not familar with your rig, but I've never heard of multiple reservoirs.

The pump just recirulates a small amount of fluid.

Did you put in the correct type of fluid?
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Old 10-20-2006, 01:48 PM   #8
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hello JBK, what year is your rig? mine is a 77 24 argosy, mine did what yours did and I drove 5 miles with no fluid ..Had to put in a new pump. mine also works the power brakes.. after putting in the new pump it only took about 15 hard turns left to right .but do it slowly if you do it fast you willfoam the fluid and will take longer..it is also nice to have some one turn for you so you can watch the fluid level.. do not over fill.
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Old 10-20-2006, 02:49 PM   #9
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When I replaced the ps pump on mine it took a while to purge the lines. I did slow figure eights in the parking lot. The pump itself has a res which is tied into the remote res in the front of the coach. Don't forget that the high pressure fluid travels to the brake booster first then to the steering gear.
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Old 10-20-2006, 03:16 PM   #10
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Steve:
So, do I have to get at the res. on the pump itself or just let it feed in it's own good time?

JB
Considering "Brutus" even though I have been reffering to it as a she...
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Old 10-20-2006, 03:37 PM   #11
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O.K. the hydroboost system is a closed system with only the reservoir in front as your top of point. Jacking it up and turning it stop to stop without holding on either stop will help purge the air in the system.
You can accomplish the same and use the brakes in a parking lot doing figure eights or ... if it has snowed you could do donuts both ways just watch out for the big concrete bases that hold the lights up in the parking lot.
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Old 10-20-2006, 03:58 PM   #12
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Glen and all:
I thank you and Brutus thanks you.
Any thoughts on my lift jack not retracting fully?

JB
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Old 10-20-2006, 05:41 PM   #13
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Glen is correct, the remote res is at the top of the system and is the fill point so things will gravity feed the pump "can". The hb pump itself is a res in that it has a "can" around the pump which holds fluid. On a "normal" ps pump this "can" is the res with the cap, etc. On our motorhomes it has a tube up to the remote res.

In any case, lock to lock and braking should purge the system. Obviously, keep checking the fluid levels.

I would like to come see the donuts.

On the Jack, have you tried greasing the pivot points and cleaning the return springs. Did you notice if the extender (the little ram on the jack) is out or in when this happens?
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Old 10-20-2006, 07:25 PM   #14
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Hi KBK.have you tried to wash the jack with a hose? could be a small amount of dirt making it hang up.TRY SPARYING pb bLASTER ON THE MOVING PIVOT points..Hope you did not try to move the unit with the jacks down, they bend easy that way..Hope just luning will help.PB Blaster will get the rust and crud out and leave a good lube coating on it..
just my $.05 worth...
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Old 10-20-2006, 09:40 PM   #15
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Thanks guys. I will try those things on Sunday. I work tomorrow. No rest for the boss, I guess.

JB
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Old 10-21-2006, 05:49 AM   #16
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I like Brutus... we often refer to Airstream One as The Bus or when it's acting up we call it The Beast.
A little lubrication is often all a hydrolic ram needs to start a whole new life.
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Old 10-21-2006, 10:10 AM   #17
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O-K, I got up early this morning and fired Brutus up. Jacked up the front and did the left and right thing and pumped the brakes. It's quite a bit better, but still a faint moan. I am confident that it will be fine. Thanks again for all the help.

O-K, another question: While playing with things, I was trying to loosen up the valve on the hose for the heater under the couch. While working it the soldered in nipple came out of the housing of the heater. It really doesn't look like a very good joint to begin with as it appears to simply solder up to a hole in the side of the box without any kind of a flange. If pressurized water from the radiator goes through this, I would think it would be attached better. Am I o-k to simply solder this back on?

JB
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Old 10-21-2006, 10:40 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBK
While working it the soldered in nipple came out of the housing of the heater. It really doesn't look like a very good joint to begin with as it appears to simply solder up to a hole in the side of the box without any kind of a flange. If pressurized water from the radiator goes through this, I would think it would be attached better. Am I o-k to simply solder this back on?

JB
Do you mean the heater core itself ? If that is the case you'll have a hard time soldering it without melting the rest of the solder on the core.

I'm pretty sure someone else with more knowledge about what you are working on will chime in here. I just have the heater core/ radiator exp.
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Old 10-21-2006, 11:24 AM   #19
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Chris:
It is the square tin box under the couch. The hose connection just seems to be soldered to the box itself, not into a hose connection. Goofy, but I guess I will have to take a better look tomorrow.
The weather here has turned to winter without giving us an autumn. It went from 70's to 20's and 30's literaly overnight. No 50 to 60 days to enjoy the fall. Just damned cold. I can't even wash Brutus. I may take him to a truck wash in town and use the foam brush tomorrow. At least the place is moderately heated and out of the wind.
I'll keep you posted. Pix to follow when it's clean. Hopefully there won't be any snow in the background... Burrrrr.....


JB
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Old 10-23-2006, 08:54 AM   #20
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JB,
That remote heater is fed from the engine heater lines. Many of us have simply removed it and bypassed the hoses up near the engine as it's a weak point in the cooling system.

If you do decided to repair it then make sure oyu run new heater hose to and from the engine. Keep in mind that in many 345's these hoses ran even further aft to the water heater (heating the house water through an internal heat exchange with hot engine coolant while traveling) and will also need to be replaced.

I mention this because replacement of these hoses is very difficult and often "overlooked" as a maintenance item by previous owners.

Personally, mine sprung a leak above the floor on one of our first trips and dumped about a gallon of hot coolant all over the carpet. I remove it and haven't really missed it.

You can get replacement heater boxes from places like JCWhitney (just in case your repair doesn't pan out)
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