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Old 08-02-2004, 02:43 AM   #21
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I just bought a 19889 370 LE. I ran it home at 60 mph and the temp gauge registered 215-220. In addition to a flush/fill and adding the water wetter, any other suggestions?

Also, I believe I read somewhere you can get the water wetter at NAPA stores. Can anyone verify this?

Muchas gracias.....
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Old 08-02-2004, 05:24 AM   #22
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Welcome to the Forum!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick Danger
I just bought a 1989 370 LE. I ran it home at 60 mph and the temp gauge registered 215-220. In addition to a flush/fill and adding the water wetter, any other suggestions?.............
Yeah, Nick......Post some pics of your rig!!!

Welcome to the Forum --


Nick - my 345 runs 210 to 215 all of the time - even at idle - for this reason, I think my thermostat is set to keep that range. I do intend to change the thermostat to a 185 (or lower) degree unit as soon as the opportunity presents itself.

Most of the 345's have an aux electric fan mounted on the front of the radiator.....mine is wired to the AC and a high temp sensor in the radiator. Either of these two will turn on the fans to move more air through the radiator. Is your set up similar?

There is a Forum Ralley in North Georgia October 22, 23, and 24. I suspect there will be quite a few Motor Homes there - any chance you could make it?
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Old 08-03-2004, 11:42 AM   #23
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Talking Operating temp

Thanks for replying. Excuse me if I'm violating any forum posting policy, but it's my first time.

I don't have the same fan set up you have. I have an oil cooler fan on the radiator on the passenger side. I'm going to investigate to see if I can move it.

I'm taking it in Thursday for a radiator flush/fill. I having the mechanic add some of NAPA's version of Water Wetter to see if it helps lower the temperature as advertised.

What type and viscosity engine oil do you use? I'm thinking of using a synthetic ( Mobil1, etc.) at 10W 40.

I don't know about the rally yet. I'll have to wait a while and see what happens.

Where do you live? I live in Kitty Hawk, NC and we are getting hit by Hurricane Alex right now. It's not too bad though.

I tried to post some pics but they are an invalid file type. I'll try to re-save them and post later.

Keep in touch.

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Old 08-03-2004, 01:05 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick Danger
I have an oil cooler fan on the radiator on the passenger side. I'm going to investigate to see if I can move it.
Instead of moving it, you might consider adding an additional fan, some things you just can't have too much of, that includes cooling air on a large vehicle used mostly in the South.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick Danger
What type and viscosity engine oil do you use? I'm thinking of using a synthetic ( Mobil1, etc.) at 10W 40.
Personally, I use any of the larger refiners straight 40 weight. Remember, I have to cross at least 3 hours of Houston, Texas flat land before I get ANYWHERE.....my engine is up to 200 degrees within 3 minutes of start-up, and I always have at least 5 minutes of loading time (with the engine running) prior to departure....I have very little "cold run time". I am not saying the synthetics do not have a place, just for me, changing the oil every 3,000 miles and knowing that the 454's all consume a generous amount of oil, I have a hard time justifying the expense of a pure synthetic. My engine also has 80,000 miles on it. When I do replace the engine, however, there is a good chance I will go with synthetics after the break-in. (Flame proof protection has now been installed.)



Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick Danger
I tried to post some pics but they are an invalid file type. I'll try to re-save them and post later.
Try saving the pics as JPEGS's or .jpg's, and resize to 600 X 400 prior to uploading as attachments.
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Old 08-03-2004, 08:51 PM   #25
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Dennis, have you tried semi-synthetic oil? Or even adding one quart of synthetic along with the rest standard oil?
Tests have shown that as little as 20% synthetic oil will offer most of the same protection and mileage characteristics as full synthetic, with much less cost.
I have taken to using 5W20 semi-synthetic blend in all new vehicles coming into my shop that specify 5W20. Several hundred cars and light trucks running around with it, and zero reported oil-related problems. Not even the Ford Triton V10 with its proclivity for galling pistons has had a problem.
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Old 08-21-2004, 03:59 PM   #26
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Question oil question

I think I'll go with the 5w 50 or staright 50w racing oil. I always let the eigine warm up for about 10 minutes before skeedaddling, so I think it should thin out enough and provide good heat protection. What are your thoughts?
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Old 08-21-2004, 04:26 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick Danger
I think I'll go with the 5w 50 or staright 50w racing oil. ...... What are your thoughts?
Nick:

Personally, I'd nix the straight 50 weight. I ran 50w in the 345 this last oil change (changed it yesterday). Basicly, this oil change was a trip from Houston to St. Louis. The engine behaved OK, as did the oil, the problem was in the changing of it this past weekend. It was so thick, even in low 90 degree temps, it would barely flow out of the pan. The oil was still transluscent, and had about 2000 miles on it, was not run "hot", and had a slight "burnt" odor to it. Pretty much normal for an engine with 81,000 miles on it that has been pulling around 16,000 lbs plus all of its life.

I plan to stick with straight 40 weight until the engine change (with a LOT of thought to the comments of Argosy20 above).

Bottom line, 50 weight didn't hurt, I had oil pressure right away at startup, kept it in all summer (only made one short trip since May, though), and it still appeared to be in good shape when I drained it.

After having tried it, I'm going back to 40 weight.
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Old 09-02-2004, 01:09 PM   #28
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Simply rewire the fans (I have two small units for my AC) to a switch that you install on the dash (disconnect the thermostats). When the engine temperature gets too hot turn on the fans. Even on a warm day this will delay the main cooling fan from turning on and thus improve horsepower, noise level and gas mileage. This is really useful on a cool day when you are in the mountains.
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Old 09-02-2004, 03:18 PM   #29
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As for the question on NAPA- they seel the CRC coolant additive under the NAPA brand name, its about 5 bucks, and works well. Use distilled water and 50% anti freeze with it, unless you live in the cold, cold North.

I know the temp gauges aren't totally accurate, but mine runs 160 to 180 max in the hottest weather pulling my tow car. I also removed my heater core, and forgot to put it back, and that did not affect the engine temps at all, other than my cockpit temp is lower. Now if i can finally insulate the floor better between the engine and the cockpit---I have looked into it, but not yet done it.
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Old 09-02-2004, 05:16 PM   #30
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Talking

Hey, everybody, thanks.......

I flushed and filled the coach and added the Engine kool and those steps dropped the operating temp aboput 5 degrees. I do have a problem, however, with the oil cooling fan that I've posted as a different thread. I am going to trace the battery wire from the fan to its source and see if that's where the problem lies. However, if push comes to shove, I'll take the advice of hardwiring a switch on the dash to fire it up.
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Old 09-02-2004, 09:20 PM   #31
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Nick,
Just an FYI - My electric fans fire up on the thermostat but they are also wired into a dash switch....so if for some reason I don't turn them on...they still come on when the temp hits 220.
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Old 09-03-2004, 06:09 PM   #32
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Well, push came to shove so I hardwired the fan to a toggle switch I installed on the dash. The curious thing I discovered upon investigation of the circuit wiring routing was that the fan was being powered by a wire that was bridged to the power wire that fed the AC fan clutch. It looked like a Harry Homeowner job and not a factory install. The battery lead never goes to any type of thermostat or sensing unit. I can't trace where the AC clutch fan battery lead comes from as it disappears into a chase that is wrapped by heat retarding aluminum foil in front of the passenger seat under the dash. My best guess is that it was wired to come on when the AC was turned on, but the logic behind this escapes me. Anywho, I got it blasting away and it has reduced the temperature another 10 degrees at idle. So, now I'm down from 220 to 205. Maybe it will reduce more as I get the rig rollong and more air can pass through.

Thanks to all who offered suggestions.................
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Old 09-03-2004, 06:31 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick Danger
I can't trace where the AC clutch fan battery lead comes from as it disappears into a chase that is wrapped by heat retarding aluminum foil in front of the passenger seat under the dash. My best guess is that it was wired to come on when the AC was turned on, but the logic behind this escapes me.
If you are talking about the ac compressor clutch it works of the heater/ac control. The ac condensor needs air flow to remove the heat, sounds like it was wired for this.

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Old 09-03-2004, 06:46 PM   #34
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Think about a relay...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick Danger
Well, push came to shove so I hardwired the fan to a toggle switch I installed on the dash.......the fan was being powered by a wire that was bridged to the power wire that fed the AC fan clutch.......
Nick:

You might want to check how many amps the fan is pulling.

Most of the installations I have seen turn the aux fan by two methods -

1.) If the AC is "on".
2.) A "high temp" sensor in the radiator.

Most of these switches are only rated for a few amperes.

The most usual "relay" is the 1" X 1" X 1" cube.

Also, most of the relay senders (signal from the "sensing" probe) operate by sending a "ground" signal to the switching relay - not by closing a positive circuit. Once the "ground" signal is received by the relay, the relay closes the high amp positive load circuit.

Some of the aux fans could draw as much as 20 amps.

If you do not have a relay in the circuit, you may want to consider wiring one in. -- Don't forget to slap a fuse or two in the line.
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Old 09-04-2004, 02:25 PM   #35
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Right on with the fuse idea. I have an inline 20 amp ceramic fuse in place. Everything seems to be hunky dorey.
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