Oil change in a Classic Airstream 454cid

[crazeevw]

About to change the oil in the Airstream. I have an '89 345LE with the 454 Chevy throttle body and about 126,000 miles.
Know that the moho has sat for the last 6 to 7 months, maybe started here and there, but not driven at all.
Thinking that I'll only be able to drive it once a week, if then, depending on work schedule.
Synthetic? Regular oil? High mileage oil? Know absolutely ONLY to purchase a WIX filter.
Anyone's thoughts concerning the oil would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Derek

[Kota]

Originally Posted by crazeevw

About to change the oil in the Airstream. I have an '89 345LE with the 454 Chevy throttle body and about 126,000 miles.
Know that the moho has sat for the last 6 to 7 months, maybe started here and there, but not driven at all.
Thinking that I'll only be able to drive it once a week, if then, depending on work schedule.
Synthetic? Regular oil? High mileage oil? Know absolutely ONLY to purchase a WIX filter.
Anyone's thoughts concerning the oil would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Derek

Sitting is a worst culprit than wear from running in most MHs. If it were a comercial truck getting run daily, I'd spend the extra for synthetic. Corrosion from combustion blow by gasses is more of an issue. Therefore, IMO, more frequent oil changes with a decent brand is a better plan. Especially before storage.

Dave...

[withidl]

I live in Houston, TX, where the temperature rarely drops below 32 degrees F. I use Mobil 1 15W-50 (only available in quarts at about $8.50 each) in my X5 and GSX1300R motorcycle. Due to price I use Mobil 1 10W-40 which Wal-Mart sells in 5 quart jugs for about $25 in my daily driver vehicles.

In the colder climates using a lower viscosity is recommended basis temperature, but bear in mind that synthetic oils have no paraffin in them so they do not gel like regular oils do and can be used to lower temperatures than regular oils.


The higher the viscosity the better, when an engine is turning relatively low rpm under heavy load, especially when the engine has a lot of miles on it. That being said, a high revving engine also benefits (my motorcycle red-lines at 11,000 rpm).

The only down side to high viscosity is a miniscule increase in fuel consumption; that's why the auto companies go with the lowest viscosity oil as a recommendation.

Synthetics are also more tolerant to sporadic use. Just make sure when you use the vehicle that the engine comes up to operating temperature for at least 30 minutes, other wise the oil will suffer from “severe service”.

[crazeevw]

Well, two different opinions on oil. My plans are to get Airstream out weekly for a 30 or so minute drive. Now that it's 'home' with me, in my driveway, this will be possible. Getting the beast out of and back into my alley driveway, now that's another matter, lol.
Thanks, Derek

[withidl]

Originally Posted by withidl

I live in Houston, TX, where the temperature rarely drops below 32 degrees F. I use Mobil 1 15W-50 (only available in quarts at about $8.50 each) in my X5 and GSX1300R motorcycle. Due to price I use Mobil 1 10W-40 which Wal-Mart sells in 5 quart jugs for about $25 in my daily driver vehicles.

In the colder climates using a lower viscosity is recommended basis temperature, but bear in mind that synthetic oils have no paraffin in them so they do not gel like regular oils do and can be used to lower temperatures than regular oils.


The higher the viscosity the better, when an engine is turning relatively low rpm under heavy load, especially when the engine has a lot of miles on it. That being said, a high revving engine also benefits (my motorcycle red-lines at 11,000 rpm).

The only down side to high viscosity is a miniscule increase in fuel consumption; that's why the auto companies go with the lowest viscosity oil as a recommendation.

Synthetics are also more tolerant to sporadic use. Just make sure when you use the vehicle that the engine comes up to operating temperature for at least 30 minutes, other wise the oil will suffer from “severe service”.

CRAZEEVW, although I reference it in my Public Profile, I probably should have advised that before I retired I worked for the Texaco Lubricants Company and for a number of years before being moved into a staff position I was a "Lubricant Engineer", so I know of what I speak.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by withidl

CRAZEEVW, although I reference it in my Public Profile, I probably should have advised that before I retired I worked for the Texaco Lubricants Company and for a number of years before being moved into a staff position I was a "Lubricant Engineer", so I know of what I speak.

crazeevw,

We all have our specific "brand" preference, (Amsoil drlr), but the above advise is spot-on.

Bob

[Kota]

Not argue and maybe I can get some of my perceptions cleared up. My understanding with older engines is that elimination of Zink, ZDDP (Zinc Dialkyl-Dithio-Phosphate), specifically the newer synthetics my cause wear in older engines do to the metalurgy designed to run with zink and phosporus in the lubricant. Zink was removed as it is detremental to catylitic converters. The 454 is probably one of the most tollerant engines ever built to oil grade. On one hand you want to best for your baby but it could be counter intuitive. I run systhetics in all my newer vehicles (Amsoil). I use Shell Rotella T in the Cummins on recomendations from all the diesel shops. I've heard its a good choice for the 454 also. I agree with the above but this is not a high reving motorcycle. Lubrication requirements might be slightly different. That is just my opinion.

I've been a mechanic and restoring classic vehicles and airplanes for about 40 years.

[crazeevw]

My thoughts are that since I really won't be putting that many miles on the Airstream annually, I plan on changing oil every 6 months or so. What are anyone's thought about what type oil to use, when it comes to changing oil every 6 months?
Thanks, Derek

[Kota]

Look into the Shell Rotella T. I plan on changing mine every year before putting it up for the winter and after evrery long trip over a couple thousand miles or so. The Cummins takes over 3 gallons so synthetic would be quite pricy. The Rotella T runs about $12 a gallon.

I'm only recommending checking it out for use in your 454. I know a lot of boat guys run it in their 454s along with the classic car crowd. You will find a lot of opinions on oil and mine is only 1 the the only one!

Catylitic converters could be a reason not to.

[barts]

I would use the viscosity that the manufacturer recommends. The diesel-spec oils (Rotella, Delo 400, etc) are an excellent choice for your 454 and contain high levels of anti-wear additives. Beware of significantly increasing cold oil viscosity; this can lead to very high cranking currents.

- Bart

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by crazeevw

My thoughts are that since I really won't be putting that many miles on the Airstream annually, I plan on changing oil every 6 months or so. What are anyone's thought about what type oil to use, when it comes to changing oil every 6 months?
Thanks, Derek

Derek,

As I mentioned everyone has their favorites...

As a user and seller I would recommend this...

Worked very well in my 454 Burb, 175k with no problems.

Amsoil Z-Rod is what I run in our flat-head Ford, not really needed in your 454.

Bob

[345bill]

I've always been under the impression that most are all good brands but one important thing is to stay with the same type, whichever you choose, as mixing different additives that they all have helps build up the sludge.

I use Amsoil in our 345 as it lives up to everything that they advertise about it. I probably change oil more than really necessary as when it's due what you see as a sample on dipstick isn't all that much darker or (gritty?) than when it's fresh. Mine is also a high mileage engine and the way I see it is frequent oil changes sure off-set the cost of an overhaul.

[Keyair]

Rotella T is my favorite, and I would not use anything else on a flat tapped engine.
The anti scuff zinc additives of the C4 oil are worth it.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by Keyair

The anti scuff zinc additives of the C4 oil are worth it.

Not necessarily true......

A low compression, low rpm, moderate valve rate engine, with a CAT converter does not need ZDDP.
An OEM converter can cost $1000+. If it has a converter, (post 1975), and is stock any good synthetic oil will work fine.

Now Deezels are another story.

Bob

[crazeevw]

To be honest, I think my Catalytic Converter has gone the way of the Dinosaurs. I've looked for one, but believe that with the Banks Powerpack conversion, it was trashed. I'll look again.

[Kota]

Originally Posted by crazeevw

To be honest, I think my Catalytic Converter has gone the way of the Dinosaurs. I've looked for one, but believe that with the Banks Powerpack conversion, it was trashed. I'll look again.

Their usefull life is about 100K. Even less on ones from that era. Its been exposed to plenty of zink and other detrimental chemicals in its early life.

I believe in the principal behind synthetics and run them in my newer engines that were designed and manufactured to tighter tollerances to take advantage of less friction from thinner films. To me its a matter of cost. I can do a $50 oil change with Rotella Triple Protection 15W40 or $150 with synthetic. (3 gallons) They claim a 1 to 2% increase in milage with synthetic. That would save about $20 in fuel at a cost of $100. I think the advantages of more frequent oil changes in an engine that sits most of the time outweigh the advantages of synthetics that are changed less often. Again, my opinion.

[navyspook]

Derek,
I'm not an engineer and don't pretend to be one, but I did race for quite awhile. I agree with the pro syn guys. Any major brand is good...I've used Royal Purple and now use Mobil 1 (Walmart has it cheap) and had good experience with all. The bottom line is that it's all oil, even the syn stuff comes out of the ground. I change mine every 7 to 10 thousand miles. I've had it tested and changing it more often is fine, but a waste of money. The real question is what weight...even here on the Redneck Riviera it can get stupid cold...down to 20 or below occasionally. I use 10-40W Mobil1 High Mileage on my 130K '87 345...oil pressure is good, temp runs about 210...I'm happy. Look at it this way, any good syn oil today is tons better than what they ran in '87.

[klattu]

"Beware of synthetic oil, it can do terrible things to you and your beloved TV and MH. It will not only leak out of your engine faster than you can put it in, but it will also cause your oil filter to clog and implode, dumping debris and dirt into your lubrication system. It also will make every part of your TVMH permanently slippery because of its linear molecular chain dispersion action. Then it will leak onto your steps causing it to retract automatically, dropping you on the ground! But that's not all...

Synthetic oil will round off your gears and spin your bearings. It will also splatter onto your seat causing you to fall off in the apex of a turn. Synthetic oil coats your sight window and your timing window with a whitish pro-emulsification additive that is both non-removable and highly corrosive.

Synthetic oil will completely leak onto the ground overnight and your dog will drink it and die. Synthetic oil will wear out your tires and make your battery leak. It will give you the desperate need to urinate after you put your thermals on and then jam your zippers shut. It will contaminate your gasoline causing your TVMH to stall on railroad tracks and accelerate uncontrollably near police cars. It will make it rain during rallies and on weekends. It will lubricate your timing belts causing them to jump teeth and break your valves to bits.

Synthetic oil chemically weakens desmodromic valves and causes the clearances to change every six miles. Then it melts the black soles of your shoes right before you walk across your new carpeting. While riding past groups of attractive women it will cause your steering grips to slip off at the same time so you smash your horn button with the bridge of your nose causing it to stay on. It also causes you’re a-arms to crack, your studs to break, and your rotors to warp, and then it voids your warranty by changing your odometer reading to 55,555. It also dries out your water tank and wets your black water. It makes your clutch slave cylinder seal fail in the heaviest traffic on the hottest day of the year while putting an angry wasp in your glove box for good measure.

Synthetic oil hides your ½” socket and puts superglue in your key holes. Synthetic oil will scratch your polished areas and make your solar panels shrink two sizes the night before travel. Synthetic oil stole your neutral and sold it to the Chinese for $1.25. Synthetic oil will make you grow a tail. Synthetic oil will write long crazy e-mails to your Internet friends and then sign your name at the bottom!"

[ROBERT CROSS]

"Nothing is more discouraging than unappreciated sarcasm."

Bob

[perryg114]

I would run Mobil 1 15W-50 in it. If it burns a lot of oil I would go with a cheaper mineral based oil. If you really want good oil facts go to bobistheoilguy.com and join their forums. I run M1 10W30 in my vehicles. I am starting to use their high miliage blend which is highly recommended on the Bob sight. I would not run 5W30 crap in it unless you want to replace it soon. Stay with 20W-50 and stuff like that if you go mineral.

Perry