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12-29-2021, 05:47 PM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
1981 28' Airstream 280
Metabief
, Doubs
Join Date: Dec 2021
Posts: 42
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Oil and water pump need to change.
Hi all, I need to change the water pump and most definitely the oil pump on my rv 285 limited from 1981. Is it possible to do this without removing the radiator? Has anyone ever done it? Any help will be welcome. Thank you. Manu
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12-31-2021, 06:07 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1991 25' Airstream 250
Oxford
, Oxfordshire
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manu25
Hi all, I need to change the water pump and most definitely the oil pump on my rv 285 limited from 1981. Is it possible to do this without removing the radiator? Has anyone ever done it? Any help will be welcome. Thank you. Manu
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Bonjour Manu,
Welcome to the forums. I would be tempted to remove the radiator, get it recored (if not already done), replace the hoses, water pump, air pump etc. Get it all done in one hit and get it out of the way. PM me if you need any leads on parts etc
I think bobmiller1 will have done this, so might want to PM him for advice.
Manuals set out below.
http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/tech...ice_Manual.pdf
http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/tech...air_Manual.pdf
http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/tech...10_30_Only.pdf
https://www.gmcmi.com/wp-content/upl...sis-Manual.pdf
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12-31-2021, 08:38 AM
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#3
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Rivet Master
1992 36' Land Yacht
Grayson
, Georgia
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,724
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Can you give more detail as to why the oil pump needs to be changed? That may be your biggest issue.
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01-01-2022, 06:54 AM
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#4
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2 Rivet Member
1981 28' Airstream 280
Metabief
, Doubs
Join Date: Dec 2021
Posts: 42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boom Sounds
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Hello Boom,
Thank you very much for your answer and the links to download the repair manuals. I already had one in paper format but not as detailed. And especially the one with the electrical plans that I did not have.
What do you mean by "Get it recored"? I use a translator to read and I don't think I got the right translation. By the way, excuse me in advance if I make mistakes or weird turns of phrase, my school English is unfortunately not good enough to do without a translator.
So to come back to what concerns me, I also think that it is necessary to disassemble the radiator to access easily to what is behind.
I have a coolant leak at the water pump and I also have an oil leak (power steering).
So I'm thinking that if I have to remove all this to get access, I might as well change the water pump and maybe the oil pump if I have to. It will also depend on the price and the ease to get the parts... my budget is limited.
I'm not there yet, for the moment I'm looking into it. I already have to finish the renovation of the carburetor (I have to reassemble it to install the float and needle that I did not receive) and the fuel supply. New pipes and installation of an electric pump secured by presostat.
Moreover, as I broke down (fuel system) the day I had to take it to the shelter in a friend's barn, it stayed here and the snow started to fall without stop for a week. (I live at the Swiss border at 1000 meters of altitude) I was really unlucky that time.
So the truck is on my land, protected on the upper part by a heavy tarpaulin. This obviously delays me and prevents me from doing many things. It's not possible to dismantle the whole front of the truck with frozen fingers and feet in the snow.
Thanks again for your welcome Boom and 92landyacht. I will send a PM to Bobmiller, if he has already done this his experience will certainly be valuable.
I will try to post a picture or two of my truck... because I am not a forum pro.
Of course when I take it all apart I'll take pictures and share it with you guys so it can be useful for others.
Until then I wish you a great day and a new year full of good health and more freedom for everyone.
Manu.
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
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01-01-2022, 12:49 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1991 25' Airstream 250
Oxford
, Oxfordshire
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,253
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Hi Manu,
Have a look at this thread about the recore radiator
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f31...135868-56.html
The theory, which seems proven, is that the P30 OEM radiators will be partially plugged after 30-40 years service. Most people then either:
A) Replace with an all aluminum replacement - some (expensive examples are set out here)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/154637813765
https://www.griffinrad.com/recreational_vehicles.php
https://www.americancoolingsolutions...-in-usa-20817/
https://www.carid.com/chevy-p-series...ce-high-to-low
If you opt for a new one, be extra careful to make sure it matches your requirement exactly.
B) Recore the original radiator. Find a reliable old local radiator maintenance shop who can take your existing radiator and rebuild it (in my view the better option).
The logic behind this approach is that your vehicle is 40 years old. If you have to replace the water pump and power steering pump, you might be better to sort the radiator/fan clutch/hoses out at the same time. Sorting out the radiator will protect your engine and transmission.
I appreciate that you are on a budget so this might not be possible for you right now!
Good luck and keep us all posted with your progress
Nick
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01-02-2022, 03:21 PM
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#6
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2 Rivet Member
1981 28' Airstream 280
Metabief
, Doubs
Join Date: Dec 2021
Posts: 42
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Hi Nick,
This time I understood what you meant.
I agree with that too, although I admit I hadn't thought of it. That said, the truck only has 32,000 miles. And the chassis as well as the rest is in good condition with very little corrosion. So I would hope that this radiator will be in a similar condition without having to spend a lot of money.
Of course I'll change all the hoses, it doesn't age well.
At first I had to change the alternator (ordered and received) and then I noticed the rest.
So I'm going to do the maximum on this side to be safe afterwards.
Good day to all of you.
Manu
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01-03-2022, 02:37 AM
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#7
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Rivet Master
1991 25' Airstream 250
Oxford
, Oxfordshire
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manu25
Hi Nick,
This time I understood what you meant.
I agree with that too, although I admit I hadn't thought of it. That said, the truck only has 32,000 miles. And the chassis as well as the rest is in good condition with very little corrosion. So I would hope that this radiator will be in a similar condition without having to spend a lot of money.
Of course I'll change all the hoses, it doesn't age well.
At first I had to change the alternator (ordered and received) and then I noticed the rest.
So I'm going to do the maximum on this side to be safe afterwards.
Good day to all of you.
Manu
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I would also give some thought to undercoating the chassis e.g. using POR15 or similar. When I bought my 250 from California in 2007 it was completely rust free. It's still in reasonable condition, but on reflection, I wish I had undercoated it when I first bought it.
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01-03-2022, 10:15 AM
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#8
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2 Rivet Member
1981 28' Airstream 280
Metabief
, Doubs
Join Date: Dec 2021
Posts: 42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boom Sounds
I would also give some thought to undercoating the chassis e.g. using POR15 or similar. When I bought my 250 from California in 2007 it was completely rust free. It's still in reasonable condition, but on reflection, I wish I had undercoated it when I first bought it.
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Yes, you're right. I also plan to inspect the entire chassis. And there are places where it's not possible to see what's going on without using an endoscopic camera for example.
I don't know the product you mentioned, I use Dinitrol. (I have a friend who works in trains in Switzerland as a mechanic. And they apply this product on the bolts of the trains. He told me that he sees cars coming back for repair after 1 million km and the bolts have nothing (or almost obviously :-D )
Rust and hail are the two things that give me the most trouble.
Here with the snow the roads are permanently salted in winter, it causes a lot of damage on the cars. As for the hail, every year we have one or two storms, more or less serious. Last year's storm put holes in some cars and destroyed many roofs. :-((( That's what scares me the most, a violent storm that would destroy the outside of my truck. I would be sick.
I've already thought about it... I'll have to invest in a light shelter for a camper while waiting to find a garage space or to build a hard shelter. but here it is... still a lot of euros that I don't really have. :-DDDD
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01-03-2022, 10:22 AM
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#9
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2 Rivet Member
1981 28' Airstream 280
Metabief
, Doubs
Join Date: Dec 2021
Posts: 42
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I just looked at the product you were talking about, the por15, it seems to be really good too.
I think I'll order some to treat hard to reach places... so I don't have to come back ;-)
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01-08-2022, 04:40 AM
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#10
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Rivet Master
1991 25' Airstream 250
Oxford
, Oxfordshire
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manu25
I just looked at the product you were talking about, the por15, it seems to be really good too.
I think I'll order some to treat hard to reach places... so I don't have to come back ;-)
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The POR 15 is very good and it goes a long way. You need to buy several parts e.g. Metal Etecher and also the paint. It is expensive to import.
I think Dinitrol and Waxoyl are much cheaper options and widely available in Europe. They will probably give you reasonable protection at a lower cost.
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03-26-2022, 12:27 PM
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#11
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2 Rivet Member
1981 28' Airstream 280
Metabief
, Doubs
Join Date: Dec 2021
Posts: 42
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Hi everyone,
finally winter is over and I was able to start dismantling my truck.
I removed the grille in front and also the oil radiator as well as that of the air conditioning. I'll post one or two pictures in a row.
I haven't drained the circuit yet. I saw a kind of small pipe screwed down the radiator in front. I think that's where the radiator drains. (photo)
If not, does anyone know how to disassemble the radiator? I confess that I do not see where to start
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03-26-2022, 12:34 PM
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#12
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2 Rivet Member
1981 28' Airstream 280
Metabief
, Doubs
Join Date: Dec 2021
Posts: 42
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03-26-2022, 07:17 PM
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#13
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Rivet Master
1991 35' Airstream 350
Columbia
, Tennessee
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 927
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Yes that is the radiator drain. Should be counter clockwise to open, clockwise to close.
I have had the radiator out our 82 twice. I have taken it out the bottom both times. You will have to lift/block up the front end about 8" or more to get it out.
You will have to remove the lower radiator support to get it out.
Hope that helps.
__________________
Chris & Brenda....................cMADMAXman
AIR Member 12654
1991 350LE "Zephyr"
1982 310 MoHo (Sold! New home, NYC.)
Many Years ago, 1972 Argosy 24' trailer
Toad, 2001 Chevy Tracker 4x4
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03-27-2022, 02:34 AM
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#14
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2 Rivet Member
1981 28' Airstream 280
Metabief
, Doubs
Join Date: Dec 2021
Posts: 42
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Yes, thank you Cmad.
I mounted the truck on small ramps of 8 to 9 inches. I hope that will be enough.
For the radiator, I hope the drain will work. It seems quite rusty to me.
And so once all the pipes are unplugged, there is just to disassemble the bottom. OK I'll do that today. I hope it goes well.
Thank you in any case for the info
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03-27-2022, 09:56 AM
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#15
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Rivet Master
1991 25' Airstream 250
Oxford
, Oxfordshire
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manu25
Yes, thank you Cmad.
I mounted the truck on small ramps of 8 to 9 inches. I hope that will be enough.
For the radiator, I hope the drain will work. It seems quite rusty to me.
And so once all the pipes are unplugged, there is just to disassemble the bottom. OK I'll do that today. I hope it goes well.
Thank you in any case for the info
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I would block that up or get some stronger axel stands. You've got an awful lot of weight up there, are they car ramps or extra heavy duty ramps? Peter Hausmann has made some ramps. They are like this...
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03-27-2022, 08:43 PM
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#17
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2 Rivet Member
1981 28' Airstream 280
Metabief
, Doubs
Join Date: Dec 2021
Posts: 42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boom Sounds
I would block that up or get some stronger axel stands. You've got an awful lot of weight up there, are they car ramps or extra heavy duty ramps? Peter Hausmann has made some ramps. They are like this...
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Hello Nick, yes these are car ramps. I reinforced them well with braces also inside.
It's true that wooden railings are a good idea, for next time ;-) but anyway, now that you say it, I will ensure safety with two more candles.
Well I will answer in several times because I just lost my previous answer with several photos.. Because of... I don't know.. The page disappeared when I wanted to preview
Ramps before
Ramps after
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03-27-2022, 08:50 PM
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#18
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2 Rivet Member
1981 28' Airstream 280
Metabief
, Doubs
Join Date: Dec 2021
Posts: 42
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That's where I am, I was able to remove this radiator without too many problems. The most difficult thing was to lay a piece of pipe on the 2 cooling tubes of the transmission with 2 collars.
Oil full of hands.. And I also had to bend one of the two tubes slightly to get to put on this piece of plastic pipe.
I also dismantled the pulley of the propeller and the tensioner roller.
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03-27-2022, 08:56 PM
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#19
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2 Rivet Member
1981 28' Airstream 280
Metabief
, Doubs
Join Date: Dec 2021
Posts: 42
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There is this pulley, the oil pump, which I cannot disassemble. The Allen key of 9 comes in but I did not dare to force because it is torx (of 9 also surely) and I do not have the right socket. Do you know, Nick, or someone, how does this damn pulley get out of it? I guess you have to unscrew that torx nut in the middle by blocking the pulley with a screwdriver right? I do not know in what sense, however. Schedule, or counterclockwise..?
Thank you for the answers and good night at home. Here it is 4:50 and it is over for me
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03-27-2022, 09:08 PM
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#20
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2 Rivet Member
1981 28' Airstream 280
Metabief
, Doubs
Join Date: Dec 2021
Posts: 42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boom Sounds
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Thanks Nick for the links, I didn't know these sites. I usually watched on rockauto.com.
It's good to have several places of comparison.
Besides, while I'm thinking about it, I don't know which oil to put back in the transmission. Nor where.. I should find that in the manual. I'll look later I'm not there yet
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