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Old 12-02-2009, 01:23 PM   #41
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Bob,Thanks for the info.Phoenix is about three hours from me .If I don't find anything closer I will check them out.
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Old 12-02-2009, 03:17 PM   #42
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In my search, I found there are a lot of snakes in the engine building business in Phoenix! Yikes! Gene's is the only one I felt reasonably confident in recommending. There was another shop called Duffee's but they seemed to focus on Fords instead of GM's and they did have a top notch reputation. Mostly I checked the hot rod forums. A lot of the hot rodders are off-roaders and the torque needed for a good 4x4 is the same torque you need for an RV. I'll check Vegas for you also.
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Old 12-02-2009, 03:47 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gypsy Jo View Post
I have a few engine rebuilders in Las vegas I need to check out . There is a guy in Kingman I can talk to but he has had some health issues lately.Thanks for all the help.
Other than an rv cam I don't know what else I could use to make gas mileage, power better.Am going to be doing transmission too.
Brad If I remember you said if I got the numbers you could tell me about it.They are:
77cl 251 8
77-334
18k for a motor ,in my dreams,.
Jo
Jo, sorry it wasn't me asking for the info! I searched back through this thread and couldn't find anyone that requested the numbers from transmission. Possibly you mentioned something in another thread but at the moment I'm at a loss........

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Old 12-02-2009, 05:36 PM   #44
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In Vegas, you might check out:
Leo's Machine Shop
(702) 247-4840
4560 Arville St Ste 20
Las Vegas, NV89103
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Old 12-02-2009, 06:14 PM   #45
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Hello,
I last year installed a 502 HT, GM crate engine in my 79 MOHO. The power increase on hills was dramatic. This engine was built for tow rigs and meets the demand. I added smog legal headers (California baggage), upgraded the intake, big radiator and gear vender. The install is really a #$#$#$#. You cannot install the block with either intake or headers as the space is not friendly for installs. You will need a good quality picker to install it. After it was over I would most likely if I did this again would go with a durmax/allison which can be made to fit in the same space with minor mods. I just this this a tow vehicle and the results were fantastic. Bottom line if you want gas buy the biggest and best you can afford with lots of torque. My engine puts out 512 lb-ft torqe at 3300 rmps. We take most grades know in 3rd gear, not overdrive. With the gearvendor our mileage has been very good.
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Old 12-02-2009, 09:03 PM   #46
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For what it's worth,
I would recommend Doug Thorley headers. Over the summer I put a set on my Jeep. The headers are heavy duty. I have been told by people in the know that Hedmans are considered cheap header because of the thin flanges where it get bolted to the cylinder head. This thin flange will allow warpage and will leak sooner.
I would also recommend Remflex exhaust gaskets. Guaranteed not to leak. I have had good results.
I have also been told that a dual pipe system on a V8 engine must have a cross-over or H pipe to create the proper back pressures in the system otherwise you will loose low end torque. If you don't want to run duals then a large single pipe will achieve the same results.
I have gone to local rebuilders for my engine work and have been pleased - there must be someone there in Arizona who could do the work.
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Old 12-02-2009, 09:32 PM   #47
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I agree, I used Doug Thorley headers. I suggest heat coating to reduce the heat in the MOHO engine compartments. Be very carful in routing of lines. They have a good set that helps build low end tourque. I agree on the flanges. I like to use 3/8" minimum and with locking bolts have never had any come loose on me. I have good results with the gaskets you talk about. I found some at SEMA that have given me good service with no issues. On the exhaust we crossed over and used a single outlet to build low end torque.
I am a fan of the GM crate motors and have installed over 10 in projects with no failures to date. I like them also in that they offer a 12000 mile warranty!
I did not mention in my previous post but we added 3 trans coolers on our rig and use Dextron 6. Our gage towing a trailer in the summer has never overheated on long grades. The routing of all the lines has to be careful for possible crispy situations.
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Old 12-03-2009, 09:19 AM   #48
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I'm sure I will be able to find somebody to do the work.
Headers help low end torque?
3 trans coolers ? I have one in radiator and one external . Do you run heat gauge on tran?
I have dual pipes going straight back.
Jo
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Old 12-03-2009, 09:34 AM   #49
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A little header information.
HowStuffWorks "How do exhaust headers work to improve engine performance?"

Here's another gear head article with good basic information.
Horsepower Vs Torque
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Old 12-03-2009, 10:05 AM   #50
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Quote:
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Even I can understand that.
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Old 12-04-2009, 06:07 AM   #51
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Headman have options with heavy 3/8" flanges. Just have to know what you're ordering.

Headers will dissipate heat better than the old cast iron manifolds so unless you've got lots of dangling stuff heat wrap may be overkill.

Whatever you install remember to drive a little then retighten...everything.
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Old 02-14-2010, 11:30 PM   #52
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I like reading all the advice on the engine. I bought a moho several years back and the FO had done a great job of covering up where he had knocked a hole in the oil pan. Yep, it trashed a rod bearing and I was stuck on the side of the road 100 miles from home. Finally got it home and pulled the engine and found out why it cratered. I looked and looked at options, and although I am well able to blue-print an engine, I opted for the new factory crate engine. Why? Cost including down-time. I could install the factory big block much faster, and besides, it was engineered for m/h service. Last time I saw it it was still running like a sewing machine with almost 100,000 miles on the crate engine. If I had plenty of time I probably would have built the 454 myself, but I'm sure the parts cost would have considerable, counting new intake and headers etc. etc.
Biggest constraint back then was time, and the crate engine saved a bunch of that.
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Old 02-19-2010, 04:14 PM   #53
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So, as for rebuilding a 454: any +- to using a long stroke crank? Making it 496cid?
I will do the engine rebuild. It's now rocket science, just pay attention to clearances and use good parts.
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Old 02-19-2010, 06:22 PM   #54
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Exclamation napa engines

Chocktawme:
Building engines is not for the amature let me tell you. I taught engine building as part of a 21 month course to train journeyman technicians. Building the 454 Big Block is serious work and technical to boot. It not only comes from the GM manual, but Honest Charley's Speed Shop, and years of racing both dragsters and sports cars. Not a job for your first timer. I 'll be glad to offer suggestions to help, but you may need someone local for hands on help.

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Old 02-20-2010, 07:51 PM   #55
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I must say I'm no virgin to engine building. I've done 1, 2, 4, 6, and 8 cylinder gas engines. I did my '60-70's gear head days. I've always done my own mechanical work. I'm a retired aircraft engine mechanic. It would be my first 454, but hay just like a small block only heavy. Just need to settle on what to put in it. Buying a long stroke kit isn't baby money. Would the long stroke be the best bang for the buck is my question. See what it looks like on tear down. May just do rings, bearing, pumps, cam/timing kit, heads and be happy with the low drag, low mpg 454. Too many questions, not enough answers.
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Old 02-21-2010, 01:13 PM   #56
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Mel:
My experience with 454 Blueprinting has been that you can get everything good but be darn picky about who does the valve job. A good 3 angle valve job is hard to find among most machine shops and the majority of techs will not do a proper 3 angle on the heads. On a 454, valve guides and good job on the valves and seats plus good (not OEM) valve seals will make a world of difference. Glad to see you have had some serious experience building engines.

Mike
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Old 02-21-2010, 01:37 PM   #57
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The thing I hate about good machinist/miller is they're a one man shop and by the time they get really good at it they get too old to do it. I know of 3 or 4 shops in all of central Oklahoma I truest. They all say, "Don't put a 502 in a motor home, can't cool them." And, "Put a Commins in it and don't worry about it any more." The Commins would be my first choose, but is more than I want to do.
Almost bought a school bus for the Commins, but chickened out and installed EFI.
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Old 02-22-2010, 07:35 AM   #58
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Cool napa engines

Mel:
Last 2 m/hs have been diesels, and I know everyone praises Cummins, but for the most part I think diesel is overrated. I had a FRED with a 210 HP Cummins, and performance was poor as far as I was concerned. The good thing about it was it got 11 MPG. I just sold a 40 ft Diesel Pusher, and although it was a beautiful coach, when Diesel prices went higher than gasoline, it was kind of lackluster. My 1984 310 is much smaller but I am having more fun putting it up in shape. Performance is markedly better with the stock 454 than I enjoyed with the 350 HP Caterpillar in the last coach. The big plus to me is the lack of on-board computers. KISS principle applies to m/h too!!!

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Old 02-26-2010, 07:39 PM   #59
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Mike, Cost/power is something I've looked/thought about. A 12 valve Commins would have a little more torque than a 454. Can get more power from the Commins, but the cost goes up with the fuel consumption. At this point in my life, the only reason I'd put a Commins in would be to say I did it and the older I get the less I want to. One of those 'Bucket List' things I guess.
But a long stroke 496cid is more in reach, just runs the overhaul cost up $1500 or so.
I know a guy that has a 496 in his race car puller and a Commins setting on the shop floor he's ready to swap. I've been trying to talk him out of the 496 or the 5.9 for 4 years now. He's one of those that say go diesel and forget it.
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Old 02-28-2010, 09:42 PM   #60
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Mel:
Sorry to be so long in replying, but I've been fighting a water heater ptoblem on my 1984 310.
I have decided that even though compression ignition engines appeal for lack of complications, I can deal with the 454 Chevy because there is so much info and so many fixes for them. I kind of like to do my own stuff on the m/h, so I don't have to buy a new set of tools to work on the 454. I already have most of the learning curve on the 454, so I suppose I just feel more comfortable with the gasoline job.
Mike
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