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Old 01-07-2022, 06:28 AM   #21
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2007 30' Classic
Oswego , Illinois
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Originally Posted by PeterH-350LE View Post
Starting in the mid 80's, I have seen the fender well metal skirting in place. Early 80's were typically missing them. Same for the radiator surrounds, except they were made of deteriorating rubber. I am one of the offenders to not have replaced the radiator surround and should consider doing that.
yes, you should. The body builder manual, at the time described the necessary air flow underhood. This is true for all vehicles, but you want air entering only through the radiator, flowing straight back, down and out under the vehicle. Openings around the radiator allows an escape for cooling air to bypass the radiator. The openings around the wells allows for a lot of turbulence inside the engine compartment and hinders, not only radiator cfm flow, but also reduces the velocitiy of the airmass underhood. Of course, exhaust manifolds are the hottest parts and need that flow.

"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
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Old 01-07-2022, 07:16 AM   #22
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1992 36' Land Yacht
Grayson , Georgia
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Thanks for the input guys. Further conversation with the shop gave me more detail. The manifolds will be replaced with new. There are several mounting studs that are broken and the gaskets on both sides are leaking as well.

I have checked compression recently and all 8 cylinders were between 145 and 152. During the last oil change, the oil looked clean and I have no oil consumption problems and no leaks. The engine only has about 45K miles on it.

I've given them the go ahead to do the repair. They're so backed up though that they couldn't give me a time that it will begin.
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Old 01-14-2022, 11:07 AM   #23
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1992 36' Land Yacht
Grayson , Georgia
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Just got a text message from the RV shop. RV is ready for pickup. They replaced both exhaust manifolds with new updated replacements, extracted 6 broken studs, installed new down pipe and manifold gaskets. Total charge with tax was $2457.00. Not cheap but way less than a new motor that I was fearing. We'll be picking her up on Weds and will report back then on how she drives. Hated having to spend so much but I guess it's just part of the game.

Now it's time to get things ready for another season.
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Old 01-20-2022, 12:56 PM   #24
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1992 36' Land Yacht
Grayson , Georgia
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OK, she's back home now. Amazing how much quieter it runs. It was a pricey fix but she's back on the road again. Now I can focus on some other minor issues. Some cosmetic and some just enhancements.

Total cost of diagnostics and repair came in at $2705.62. Not the best price I imagine but I was not in the mood to do two exhaust manifold replacements let alone extracting 6 broken bolts. Mentally it was a relief since I was expecting the problem to be rod related with a replacement engine in the future. That would have come in at more than $10,000.00.

For what it's worth, the labor rate was $140/hr and nobody around me would do the job for less. They did do a thorough diagnostics that took more than 2.5 hours including an oil analysis. What was strange, was the oil analysis was a bit different from the one done by Motul at the racetrack. Most values were close, but the level of copper found at the track was more than twice what was found by the RV Shop's analysis. The oil analysis was not done in house but was sent off to another lab that specializes in oil tests.
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Old 01-20-2022, 05:18 PM   #25
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1974 20' Argosy 20
Richmond , Kentucky
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After it's all said and done and the performance is what you were hoping for then you came out ahead. An engine replacement is not always the answer. In my case I didn't have an engine and if I could have gotten away with spending $2700 to be where you're at now I'd have been happy to pay it.

Glad to hear things are good now
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Old 01-20-2022, 08:55 PM   #26
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1982 28' Airstream 280
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Shop prices in S.F. Bay Area are $195+ and very difficult to get anyone to work on any vehicle over 10yrs old, especially a motorhome.

With the right technique you might be able to remove header bolts without breaking them, BUT probably next to impossible. Almost impossible to drill out straight and if you break an "easy out" type tool in the broken bolt, you can just about forget about trying to drill out that hardened metal. With the right welding technique you can weld a bolt to the broken bolt! But then again probably no room to do so (driver's side for me). I think it was a very wise choice to have your shop do the work. I've had customers tell me that they have drilled off center and drilled right into a water jacket. I've wanted to remove my headers for the last 10 years to repaint them, but I don't want to deal with broken header bolts. That would mean for me, I would then have to remove the heads and take to a machine shop! NOPE! Money well spent in my opinion!
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