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Old 10-23-2020, 01:28 PM   #1
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HWH leveling Jack replacement

Finally after three month I received the replacement leveling jack for my 350.

The one I am replacing is stuck in piston open and will not budge.
Has anyone replaced one of these? Does it require system pressure release and bleeding after the install or any other trick to know about ?
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Old 10-23-2020, 01:46 PM   #2
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Peter, glad that finally arrived for you!

I have not replaced one, sorry I am no help, but I have one with a slow leak I fear is non-servicable. I see AP3664 in your picture, was that the only identification you needed to order it?

Also, how much was the replacement? They do not have prices listed on their site.

Thanks
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Old 10-23-2020, 02:11 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnet18 View Post
Peter, glad that finally arrived for you!

I have not replaced one, sorry I am no help, but I have one with a slow leak I fear is non-servicable. I see AP3664 in your picture, was that the only identification you needed to order it?

Also, how much was the replacement? They do not have prices listed on their site.

Thanks

The ap-3664 is listed on their website, without the price. you have call in for that 563-724-3396 . They are costly around 780 incl the shipping and the 3 month wait. I got that number of my old jack. If you have a small leak, you urgently need to check the pump reservoir. Mine was pretty much empty. On the 350 its located under a cover in the drivers front side wheel well.
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Old 10-23-2020, 02:42 PM   #4
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awesome method for spring removal, if required

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f84/inst...acks-4130.html
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Old 10-23-2020, 02:57 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer View Post
The ap-3664 is listed on their website, without the price. you have call in for that 563-724-3396 . They are costly around 780 incl the shipping and the 3 month wait. I got that number of my old jack. If you have a small leak, you urgently need to check the pump reservoir. Mine was pretty much empty. On the 350 its located under a cover in the drivers front side wheel well.
Thanks for the info! About the same price as other manufacturers then.

Did you look into having it serviced? I have read online they are not user serviceable, but HWH will service, and also found some recognized services centers. I found an i2rv thread highly recommending these guys
http://www.rvleveling.com/contact-stuarts-service.html

They are close to me, already closed for the week but I plan to call them monday.
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Old 10-23-2020, 03:02 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnet18 View Post
Thanks for the info! About the same price as other manufacturers then.

Did you look into having it serviced? I have read online they are not user serviceable, but HWH will service, and also found some recognized services centers. I found an i2rv thread highly recommending these guys
http://www.rvleveling.com/contact-stuarts-service.html

They are close to me, already closed for the week but I plan to call them monday.

I may get the old one serviced if its cost effective. Always good to have a working spare
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Old 10-23-2020, 03:31 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer View Post
Finally after three month I received the replacement leveling jack for my 350.

The one I am replacing is stuck in piston open and will not budge.
Has anyone replaced one of these? Does it require system pressure release and bleeding after the install or any other trick to know about ?
I replaced a HWH jack on my coach. Different model but same concept. You do need to release the system pressure. After the pressure is released, just pull the hose connections, unbolt from frame. Install the new jack in the reverse order. No bleeding is necessary. You may want to check the hydraulic fluid reservoir after you cycle the jack several times. Super easy replacement. Make sure you torque your mounting bolts to spec and don’t over tighten the hydraulic fittings.
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Old 10-23-2020, 05:43 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IdahoTrvlr View Post
I replaced a HWH jack on my coach. Different model but same concept. You do need to release the system pressure. After the pressure is released, just pull the hose connections, unbolt from frame. Install the new jack in the reverse order. No bleeding is necessary. You may want to check the hydraulic fluid reservoir after you cycle the jack several times. Super easy replacement. Make sure you torque your mounting bolts to spec and don’t over tighten the hydraulic fittings.

Thanks for the info. Do you mean to release the pressure at the Emergency valve release?
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Old 10-24-2020, 02:52 AM   #9
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I'm a little late to the party here but I have the manual control valves and just move the valves to the "store" position and leave them there. All the jacks will swing up but the frozen jack and the pressure is released. As Idaho said just disconnect hydraulic line, you will loose a little fluid but not much. Swap out the jack, don't forget the wires for the jack down warning light, and reconnect the hydraulic line. Be careful with the hose routing so nothing rubs during cycle. You can swing the jack down by hand to check clearance. No bleeding required but you can cycle it a few times to make sure everything looks good. You may have adjust the vertical alignment. Find the plunger that pushes the roller bearing to swing the jack down, there are two jamb nuts that adjust the plunger up and down in a sleeve. You want the jack to swing to vertical before it starts to extend. Have fun
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Old 10-24-2020, 07:13 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smartstream View Post
I'm a little late to the party here but I have the manual control valves and just move the valves to the "store" position and leave them there. All the jacks will swing up but the frozen jack and the pressure is released. As Idaho said just disconnect hydraulic line, you will loose a little fluid but not much. Swap out the jack, don't forget the wires for the jack down warning light, and reconnect the hydraulic line. Be careful with the hose routing so nothing rubs during cycle. You can swing the jack down by hand to check clearance. No bleeding required but you can cycle it a few times to make sure everything looks good. You may have adjust the vertical alignment. Find the plunger that pushes the roller bearing to swing the jack down, there are two jamb nuts that adjust the plunger up and down in a sleeve. You want the jack to swing to vertical before it starts to extend. Have fun

The thing with Dan is that he makes everything sound like its a walk in the park
Well, it really wasn't that hard, just a pain to get to the 4 mounting bolts and having to deal with the weight. Nice to have a working leveling system.
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Old 10-24-2020, 07:58 PM   #11
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You know when I started playing with bigger stuff everybody said you will like the big stuff better because fewer nuts and bolts to deal with. As the parts get bigger and heavier, you use equipment to move them rather then your back.

Remember when I did the tag axle in my 345 I had to relocate the two rear jacks including the mounting brackets? I figured if I could do that then you could swap out one jack in the time it would take me to hunt and peck in this response. And I see you already got it done.
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Old 10-24-2020, 08:09 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smartstream View Post
You know when I started playing with bigger stuff everybody said you will like the big stuff better because fewer nuts and bolts to deal with. As the parts get bigger and heavier, you use equipment to move them rather then your back.

Remember when I did the tag axle in my 345 I had to relocate the two rear jacks including the mounting brackets? I figured if I could do that then you could swap out one jack in the time it would take me to hunt and peck in this response. And I see you already got it done.

Just another example of downplay. "relocate the two rear jacks including the mounting brackets"

Those mounting brackets were welded to the frame !!! And not just tack welded, I am talking solid. And then there is the fuel tank while the spark were flying. I am good at some things, other stuff I just don't even dare to touch...
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Old 10-24-2020, 08:23 PM   #13
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That's interesting, everyone I've seen was bolted on. They even advertise that they are pre drilled to match many existing factory holes.

You guys and your gas tank problems, I only have diesel so I just don't think about that stuff.
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Old 10-25-2020, 09:26 AM   #14
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That's interesting, everyone I've seen was bolted on. They even advertise that they are pre drilled to match many existing factory holes.

You guys and your gas tank problems, I only have diesel so I just don't think about that stuff.



Dan, I stand corrected the mounting bracket is bolted on. I just never took a second look.

Picture of the hydraulic pump and reservoir in the drivers side wheel well.
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Old 10-30-2020, 07:53 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer View Post
Dan, I stand corrected the mounting bracket is bolted on. I just never took a second look.

Picture of the hydraulic pump and reservoir in the drivers side wheel well.
Mine isn't in the wheel well, but mounted underneath the couch area. I'll have to figure out how to fill it.


An update from HWH (after my emails were ignored for a week I finally called, grumble), they were helpful. I think my leak is coming from the smaller actuator cylinder, which can be ordered separately for $165.17 and easily swapped. (and very much to the surprise of the person on the phone, "oh my God, no way, that's actually in stock"...)
I think I'll get two and have a spare.

The cost of a full rebuild is, worst case assuming they replace everything, $533.61 with a 4-8 week turnaround (currently running closer to 8 as you discovered), and carries a 1 year warranty.

So for about $2k one could have all 4 jacks totally rebuilt with a 1 year warranty, which I think isn't a terrible deal if they're all acting up.
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Old 10-31-2020, 06:42 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Magnet18 View Post
Mine isn't in the wheel well, but mounted underneath the couch area. I'll have to figure out how to fill it.


An update from HWH (after my emails were ignored for a week I finally called, grumble), they were helpful. I think my leak is coming from the smaller actuator cylinder, which can be ordered separately for $165.17 and easily swapped. (and very much to the surprise of the person on the phone, "oh my God, no way, that's actually in stock"...)
I think I'll get two and have a spare.

The cost of a full rebuild is, worst case assuming they replace everything, $533.61 with a 4-8 week turnaround (currently running closer to 8 as you discovered), and carries a 1 year warranty.

So for about $2k one could have all 4 jacks totally rebuilt with a 1 year warranty, which I think isn't a terrible deal if they're all acting up.

Plus inflated shipping. Fact is the levelers are a real luxury item and get little use. I had to really convince myself spending almost 800 on a new leveling jack.

On a side note, I tried almost everything to get the old priston to retract. it would not budge. After I replaced it and it was sitting on my shop floor, I accidentally leaned on it and all the fluid came shooting while the piston was retracting.
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Old 10-31-2020, 11:09 AM   #17
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Hey Peter are we having fun yet?
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Old 11-01-2020, 07:20 AM   #18
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Plus inflated shipping. Fact is the levelers are a real luxury item and get little use. I had to really convince myself spending almost 800 on a new leveling jack.

On a side note, I tried almost everything to get the old priston to retract. it would not budge. After I replaced it and it was sitting on my shop floor, I accidentally leaned on it and all the fluid came shooting while the piston was retracting.
Similar story, I put my jacks down to verify the leak was coming from the small actuator cylinder...

36 hours later, it hasn't leaked a drop! Whereas last time I put it down it left a puddle.
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