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Old 01-26-2003, 07:41 PM   #21
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Brett, make sure that you don't need an adapter plate to mount the Edelbrock. If your mounting bolts line up, assure clearance with the intake manifold and the primary and secondary flaps on the bottom.
Which model # did you end up getting? The EDL-1906 reman?
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Old 01-26-2003, 08:30 PM   #22
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Peter,

I guess I will find out when I pull the old carb. There looks to be a thin steel adapter plate in between the current carb and the intake manifold. I purchased the reman 1904.

The install kit included the gaskets and a quarter inch thick black plate that is made out of a non metallic substance. I assume it is a gasket/insulatator. I will check to see if the current carb vs. new clearances are diffrent. I have enough space under the doghouse cover to put in whatever adapter plate or gasket I need. Now I just need to find the proper shaped crimp on spade to connect the electric choke.
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Old 02-06-2003, 05:47 PM   #23
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Thumbs up

Well. it looks like a beat Brett to the installation of a new Edelbrock. I ordered the edl-1906 and installed it last night.
Switch over was easy, no adapter plate needed. The electric choke had a strange L-shape + terminal. I drilled a small hole and used a screw and a ring connector. Fast idle solenoid did not fit linkage, so I ordered an adapter plate (EDL-1997), if it works fine, if not I will live without it.
Idle mixture needed minor adjustments, which takes a special tool. I made one from a TV antenna and fitted it before installing the carb.
Improvements:
better starting
stable and smooth idle
better choke function
beautiful throttle response
smooth transition from primary to secondary
No more gas fumes after engine shut down
No more dieseling!!!
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Old 02-06-2003, 06:58 PM   #24
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I ran out of time, so I had my mechanic install mine. Says it is running smooth, but I won't get to try it until saturday. Peter, I would be interested in hearing more regarding your adjustment to the carb.

I would have done it myself, but I have way to busy at work. I refused to let the RV place install my new water heater, so that is my weekend project. It is sitting in the garage waiting for the MH to come home. I went Gas/Electric with a standing pilot.

Besides installing the carb I am having the flex lines for the brakes replaced, and the master cylinder/booster checked and a new starter installed. Brakes seemed a bit mushy on the last trip and the starter started to act weird as well. Now I should be ready for the trek to the Sarasota rally in late feb!
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Old 02-06-2003, 08:35 PM   #25
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I don't have a motorhome but have turned a few wrenches in my time and just wanted to add my 2 cents. Wouldn't you fella's would be better off putting factory TBI or Holley Projection on your beasts? Carburetors are for the birds!!

(I know you Californians probably have your hands tied)

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Old 02-06-2003, 09:03 PM   #26
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the 1900 series Edelbrocks Q-jets are stock replacements, unlike the Edelbrock Performance series, which need adaptors and other modifications. For me its once an Edelbrock always an Edelbrock. Since you live so close, come over on a Sat/Sun and I let you run him up and down Loop 1.Let's see what ya think.
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Old 02-07-2003, 05:26 AM   #27
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Fuel injection is easily a $1000 swap and a lot of work; the sensors need to be mounted/installed, the ECM must be located (make and route a new harness), the fuel pump, distributor, and fuel lines have to be changed, adapt the throttle body to the mainfold (or swap manifolds, but there is limited clearance under the engine cover).

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Old 02-07-2003, 05:53 PM   #28
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Talking

Yeah, what John said!
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Old 02-07-2003, 06:44 PM   #29
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Brett- I bought a starter from Alterstart in Dallas,TX. They make twoor more mini gear reduction types, I bought the racing starter. It has a solid billet alum mounting plate, with a revolveable head for the motor so it can be mounted away from the manifold/exhaust pipe, and the solenoid is solid metal sealed to protect from heat . All that for 119 bucks, which is less than half the price of a Tilton starter.
Just my 2 cents, but in the long run it may save me lot of grief. I also went the next maybe unecessary step and got at Thermal wrap for the starter too. If i have a heat related starter problem now I will eat the solenoid. With hot sauce of course!!
www.4alterstart.com is their address if anyone is interested.
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Old 02-09-2003, 07:16 AM   #30
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Picked up the MH yesterday and boy is the new carb sweet! Smooth idle that is not so rich it stinks, and the secondaries kick in even when cold now. The new starter really kicks the engine over, and it seems to run quieter.

I also had the 2 flex lines to the front calipers replaced and the brake system bled. I now feel in more control when I have to stop due to some $%$#head who swoops in front of me and jams on the brakes.
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Old 02-09-2003, 09:20 AM   #31
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Hey Brett,
$%$#head's brother lives in Austin and I understand he has an extended family.
Good move on replacing the brake pressure lines
I would hope that your mechanic checked the Idle mixture. One side was off by quiet a bit on mine. I would ask him.
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Old 02-10-2003, 04:09 AM   #32
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The idle mix was the only adjustment he made. The idle is perfect. At normal temps the coach will just roll a bit if you take your foot off the brakes.

Can't wait to make the run to Sarasota on Monday. I pick up the Saturn from CW Tuesday with the tow bar installed and the Brake Buddy will be here Thursday. Monday will be my first Toad pull as well.
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Old 06-16-2004, 08:50 PM   #33
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OK, this is an oldie, but I thought I would add to it.

The prior posts were about my 76 MH, this one is for the 78.

I replaced the quadrabog with an Edelbrock a few months back. I tried to adjust it based on directions I received from all you forum friends. Of course at the time I did not realize my tach was acting goofy. I have no way to check the idle speed since I do not have an external tach.

In doing my adjustments I riched the carb up good! I was getting with toad 6-7 MPG I got 11 before I blew up the engine.

So I have been trying to get the carb back to factory spec and adjust from there. I ran the low speed screw all the way in ( I had to turn it in close to 4 turns to bottom it out) and backed it out 2.5 turns. I left the high side alone and took it for a run. The secondaries now open much easier and it has more power. The dash Vacuum gauge (fuel economy) is running higher than it was before, thats good, right?

Tonight I decided after reading a few more posts I would turn both screws in 1/4 turn. This required me to adjust my idle up a bit, but now I have even more vac on the dash gauge. Have not taken it for a run, but will on Saturday as part of the final prep to head for Lansing.

I guess the real questions are:

1. Anyone know the factory setting on the high speed screw?

2. What would be the symptoms if I am running too lean, and the possible side effects?

TIA
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Old 06-17-2004, 08:44 PM   #34
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well?

Anyone? I have recently read running too lean can be harmful.................
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Old 06-17-2004, 09:04 PM   #35
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If you are too lean it will backfire or stumble off idle. Too lean will burn pistons, valves, etc. When you get to Michigan pull a couple of the plugs and see how they look, tan is good, white is not. Tuning with the vacuum gauge is the way to go so you are probably on the right track.

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Old 06-18-2004, 06:27 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 74Argosy24MH
If you are too lean it will backfire or stumble off idle. Too lean will burn pistons, valves, etc. ..... Tuning with the vacuum gauge is the way to go so you are probably on the right track. John
Ask any hightime aircraft pilot about leaning engines - if you own your own airplane, you buy a lot of expensive avgas just to keep the engine cool - price a rebuild of a recip aviation engine.

As cheap as "spot" infrared thermometers are (< a C note), it might be a good investment, lean carb to max manifold temp (run a vaccuum check to confirm), and rich the mix up to drop the temp about 50 degrees on the manifold - this would equate to about double the drop of the actual exhaust gasses (I think).

I keep the spot infrared thermometer handy at all times, when I stop to fuel up, I always do a walkaround visual check, get a spot reading on the tires (high temp will indicate a low tire pressure), and each wheel hub (high temp indicates a bad bearing or dragging brake). It takes no time at all to do a walkaround using the laser spot thermo, and it actually encourages you to take a closer look at the things that need a frequent visual inspection.

Another handy use of the thermometer is to record the in and out temp of the radiator - might indicate problem areas before a catastrophic failure does a lot of (expensive) damage.
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