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Old 01-08-2007, 03:34 PM   #1
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exhaust manifold

Just wondering if anyone has done this which am sure there is. It's on a argosy 28, drivers side. Seems i could get to it ok by talking off the wheel. It's not cracked or anything just blown gasket. A mechanic work said if the bolts didn't break it would not be bad. Also thought why i was in there go ahead and change plugs and wires to. Motor has 20,464 miles on it, i know this to be true because it's been in the family snice new. Any suggestions? Thanks
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Old 01-08-2007, 03:43 PM   #2
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Might be simple, but

Quote:
Originally Posted by john roeder
... A mechanic work said if the bolts didn't break it would not be bad...
The thought of breaking bolts to replace a leaking exhaust manifold gasket on my 7.4 liter engine scared me enough to take the truck to a professional. Their trick, by the way, was to loosen the bolts after warming up the engine. No bolts broke.

But after their work, I still had exhaust noise. Working on it myself later, the manifold was found to be warped.

Make sure someone puts a straight-edge on the manifold before installing the new gasket.

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Old 01-08-2007, 03:46 PM   #3
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I have removed warped exhaust manifolds, and sent them to a machine shop to be milled flat again. IIRC, cost was about $20.
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Old 01-08-2007, 04:36 PM   #4
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John,

The high dollar solution is a Banks PowerPack, which I had installed by Camping World. It was worth every penny!

There are lower cost options, all of which involve replacing your exhaust manifolds with good quality headers and a dual exhaust system. There are many benefits; lower engine/doghouse temperatures, better performance and less chance of another exhaust leak down the line.

It all depends on your desires and resources -- if the coach is a long-term keeper, I'd say spring for a good header/dual exhaust system and fabricate a better cold air intake. Several posters have done so with good effect.

Type "Banks" (or "headers") on the search bar, and you'll find several threads which will be most useful to you.

Re: plugs and wires -- absolutely! Jacobs are lifetime guaranteed, BTW. I bought Taylors, but wish I had bought the Jacobs. New rotor, cap and coil would be money well spent, too, IMHO.

Good luck and let us know how you decide to proceed.
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Old 01-08-2007, 05:00 PM   #5
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exhaust manifold

Thanks, I already have dual exhaust. Was this already on when it came new or was it installed later. You bet, am going to give it the complete tune up while am at it.
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Old 01-08-2007, 07:27 PM   #6
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John,
I've removed my stock manifolds myself. I ended up replacing them with headers. I can tell you that it's not an easy job. I sprayed each bolt on mine with PB Blaster each day for a week. I would then drive the coach to warm up the engine, then sprayed again and let it sit overnight.

When I finally began the process of bolt removal I found that six bolts came out with a breaker bar (manually) but two required a little more "persuasion". I used an electric impact wrench (I call her persuasion).

My biggest mistake was on the forward most bolt. I could not get a good angle on it since the master cylinder and hydroboost lines are in it's way. Instead of removing the offending components I began using the impact wrench (as gently as possible) but ended up stripping the bolt head.

12 hours of drilling, heating, grinding and every "back out" tool I could buy later I got the stud out without trashing the head. In the end I removed everything that was in my way to begin with.

So, yes, you can access this through the driver's side wheel weel...but having it to do over I would hire a professional for this job.

Also, yes change the plugs and wires while you there. Also perform at least a compression check and if you can a leakdown check. It'll tell you a lot about the condition of your low mileage engine.

Lastly - welcome to the forum! If you ever head down toward "The Ville" look me up.
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Old 01-08-2007, 07:35 PM   #7
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Yup, all of the above. Especially Swebsters! Depending on how the coach has been stored and used you may not have any trouble at all. The bottom line with 454 manifolds is that they blow gaskets on a regular basis. If you want true performance and lower maintenance just go to Summit Racing - High Performance Car and Truck Parts | 800-230-3030 and order Hedman Headers for your coach. Cost is only about $200 bucks and you'll get better performance, economy and heat dissipation.
You'll also get a lot more room on each side of the block. The driver side is the tough one but it's worth the effort to do the job right the first time.
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Old 01-08-2007, 07:45 PM   #8
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With something that old and seasoned, if you don't have the proper tools, take it to someone who does.
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Old 01-08-2007, 08:04 PM   #9
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I have to second that. I have worked on cars my whole life. But when I needed that work done on my SOB, with the same motor as my current AS, I let my mechanic handle it. After reading the previous posts, I think I made the right decision. I didn't skin one knuckle. Ron
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Old 01-08-2007, 08:45 PM   #10
76 Argosy 28' MH
 
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exhaust manifold

Thanks to all of you. I think ya all changed my mind. I did get a price to replace the one that's bad, here in Springfield, Ohio there called Brake Pros. They gave me a price of $250.00 which i didn't think was to bad. Also while they had it i was going to have em go over the brakes to. Can't afford to go all the way with the headers and such, want to do some other things to it. The MH is cool though and think were going to have a lot of fun. Hope to some of you and get a hand shake. My poor Buckeyes
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Old 01-08-2007, 09:04 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by str8strm
I didn't skin one knuckle. Ron
Wish I could say that of all my car dealings.
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Old 01-09-2007, 07:17 PM   #12
76 Argosy 28' MH
 
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exhaust manifold

Well i did it. I just like working on this stuff, good thing i guess. Any how i took the manifold off. You all might not beleive this but the old bolts came right off, i even thought some were kind of loose, didn't take to much presure at all. Just wondering if this is why it blew. Didn't re-tighten after they were put on? Think i will check the other side to. O well just got lucky i guess. Sure would like to do the header thing in the future, just can't do it now. Thanks to all again. This fourm is great.
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Old 01-10-2007, 05:48 AM   #13
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Nice work John. Did you know that the next time, and yes there will be a next time, that you only have to remove the inside bolts? The two end bolts can stay in and only have to be backed out enough to pull the manifold back a bit. The gasket slips in from the top and then you re-tighten.
I actually have a regular routine....called the "tighten up." I do this every two weeks or so. I have developed quite an ear for exhaust ticks. My 3/8 wrench gets a workout on all the header bolts as the old 454 does do quite a bit of shakin' and movin' as we drive down the bumpy roads of America. The driver side requires a long arm on the front bolt.
I'm up on 19.5" wheels so the clearance under the coach is perfect for my creeper and me! Get familiar with everything and what it looks like so that you'll notice when something changes.
Also next time you post a problem like this you may want to put it in the motorhome forums. We've got a number of different sub-forums and even an Argosy Moho forum. I had a heck of a time finding your thread again and finally used the search feature.
Good luck with your low mileage beauty.... now how about some photos!?
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Old 01-10-2007, 06:52 AM   #14
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Nice work John. Did you know that the next time, and yes there will be a next time, that you only have to remove the inside bolts? The two end bolts can stay in and only have to be backed out enough to pull the manifold back a bit. The gasket slips in from the top and then you re-tighten.
I actually have a regular routine....called the "tighten up." I do this every two weeks or so. I have developed quite an ear for exhaust ticks. My 3/8 wrench gets a workout on all the header bolts as the old 454 does do quite a bit of shakin' and movin' as we drive down the bumpy roads of America. The driver side requires a long arm on the front bolt.
I'm up on 19.5" wheels so the clearance under the coach is perfect for my creeper and me! Get familiar with everything and what it looks like so that you'll notice when something changes.
Also next time you post a problem like this you may want to put it in the motorhome forums. We've got a number of different sub-forums and even an Argosy Moho forum. I had a heck of a time finding your thread again and finally used the search feature.
Good luck with your low mileage beauty.... now how about some photos!?
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Old 01-10-2007, 07:22 AM   #15
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I have not used these gaskets yet but my mechanic told me when the time comes to use steel header gaskets, GM part # 96-97-1410. The hole size might need to be enlarged depending on your engine.
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Old 01-10-2007, 07:33 AM   #16
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Nice one John. Sounds like you're off to a great start. I second Glen's request for photos. We all enjoy learning more about each other's motorhomes, especially what they look like.

Sorry about Ohio. A few of us in the office lost some money on that one. At least we had the Cards this year. Maybe OSU vs. U of L next year?
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Old 01-10-2007, 07:48 AM   #17
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just make sure you check what shape the gaskets are some have square holes some have oval holes. chevy changed the heads on the454's. also I change the bolts when the gaskets are changed also have the manifold squared up or you will be changing gasket quite often. i did mine and put the medium strength loctite on header bolts . tourqed them up . no more loosening up.. quick note if using the gaskets that are off white I soake them in water over night .old hot rod trick. it softens up the gasket to make better seal and less chances of loosening up.
Bob
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Old 01-10-2007, 08:02 AM   #18
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Nice work John. Did you know that the next time, and yes there will be a next time, that you only have to remove the inside bolts? The two end bolts can stay in and only have to be backed out enough to pull the manifold back a bit. The gasket slips in from the top and then you re-tighten.
I actually have a regular routine....called the "tighten up." I do this every two weeks or so. I have developed quite an ear for exhaust ticks. My 3/8 wrench gets a workout on all the header bolts as the old 454 does do quite a bit of shakin' and movin' as we drive down the bumpy roads of America. The driver side requires a long arm on the front bolt.
I'm up on 19.5" wheels so the clearance under the coach is perfect for my creeper and me! Get familiar with everything and what it looks like so that you'll notice when something changes.
Also next time you post a problem like this you may want to put it in the motorhome forums. We've got a number of different sub-forums and even an Argosy Moho forum. I had a heck of a time finding your thread again and finally used the search feature.
Good luck with your low mileage beauty.... now how about some photos!?
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Old 01-10-2007, 03:01 PM   #19
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Exclamation "Tighten" or "Check"?

Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenCoombe
...I actually have a regular routine....called the "tighten up." I do this every two weeks or so...
I used anti-seize on new manifold bolts, and only had to re-torque the bolts once.

Do you actually tighten the bolts every two weeks or just routinely verify that the bolts have not loosened.

Tom
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Old 01-10-2007, 03:14 PM   #20
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Tom, you have to take into account that I can turn 1-2000 miles a week when I'm out on the road. I do preventative tightening and every once in a while find the front bolt on the curb side needs a little snugging but as I stay on top of it all seems to be o.k. I've replaced gaskets enough not to be taken back by the job and can do it pretty quick now.
I like to get under the coach and check my header collector / reducer bolts too. Then the drive line parking brake. I ball everything else and often will take the mini grease gun with me while I prowl about on my creeper. I'm in tune with the beast at least.
I also change my genset oil about every two weeks when I'm out on the road steady as that will be at 150-200 hour mark.
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