Ball joint replacement

[PeterH-350LE]

I am on it, upper right is in, getting ready to press out lower right.
As usual, lots of on the job training...Pictures later

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer

I am on it, upper right is in, getting ready to press out lower right.
As usual, lots of on the job training...Pictures later

On the job training is the best kind!

[PeterH-350LE]

Passenger side is done. What a bear that lower ball joint is!
Here are the tools I used.
I got loaner tools from Advance autoparts:
Ball joint kit# 46 Powerbuilt 648617
Fork kit #15 Powerbuilt 648646
I found this on Craigslist and I am so glad I got it to press the new lower in.
GM specialty tool #J-9519-10

[PeterH-350LE]

The ball joint kit just barely can be configured to press out the old joint. It actually comes out fairly easy after you figure out how to do it. Logic does not work, I had to read the instruction that came with the kit to figure out how to do it. Besides the C clamp, I only used 2 of the adapters to make it work.

[PeterH-350LE]

Pressing the new joint in is a whole different story. I am not sure if the ball joint kit is heavy duty enough to handle the 4' breaker bar i used to torque that ball joint into place. It really took all I had, I would estimate it takes 500-600 foot pound to press it into place using the original GM tool and 1 adapter.
The great thing was that that very tool also worked to press the rubber boot into location. It has a steel band that need to be pressed down

[Isuzusweet]

I'm guessing that's why the truck repair place beside my work has a hydraulic press. They probably take the whole control arm off to work on it. It takes all the hard work out of it.

Good job Peter.

Cheers
Tony

[PeterH-350LE]

Compared to the lower, the upper ball joint is just a walk in the park. Yes the brake caliper has to come off and it needs to be hung on the side by the shock absorber. Then I had to drill the 4 rivets out and make certain to stay on center. The new upper comes with 4 grade 8 bolts, washers and nuts that are used to mount the ball joint.
My trusted shop manual gave me 45 pounds to torque the new bolts and I went for it.
You can trust your trusted shop manual, right ?
Well, 1 of the grade bolts started to get mushy, you know that feeling don't ya? Holy cow, my torque wrench must be screwed up, darn craftsman tools anyways. I got my old dial torque wrench and sure enough around 45 pounds on the other bolts.
So I went and looked at my trusted shop manual again, yup 45 pounds. Hmmmm, I wonder if there are any instruction in the box of the balljoints.
18 pounds !!!!!
So, I had to drill that one 8 grade bolt out, since i busted the thread with my stupidity.
Make sure you install the bolts with the washers and nuts on the top, or you may have some issues with the rubber boot getting torn below.

[PeterH-350LE]

Oh I forgot, the old lower right ball joint was trash. I knew it when I stepped on the brakes and heard this ugly "Clong" . The upper appeared to be in pretty good condition, but you know how it is when you got it all torn up already...might as well

[Gregsch]

Nice work Peter. There is nothing like the piece of mind you get driving down the road knowing the job was done right.

[PeterH-350LE]

Left side went a lot faster than the right side. The on the job training is paying for itself already.
Just right after I took the picture of the extensions used to torque this puppy in, we busted my wrench and I had to get another 3/4 drive socket to finish the job.
Thanks to my friend Joe for giving me a helping hand and for applying his usual wit to solve the unsolvable!!
My recommendation:
Unless you have the right tools, do not attempt this job!
I was lucky that I purchased the original GM installer tool, without it we would have been sunk.
below the perfect fitting tool to make this possible
GM specialty tool #J-9519-10 with adapter J-9519-16
and a fence post

[bkahler]

Peter, got any pictures of removing the coil springs?

Great job by the way!

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by bkahler

Peter, got any pictures of removing the coil springs?

Great job by the way!

Coil springs, airbags, shocks all stay. Caliper and rotor come of.
You would have to remove the coil springs etc , if you would want to use a hydraulic press.
This method is called "on vehicle ball joint replacement"

[shepherd57]

Peter
Where did you find that ball joint press. That is something I would like to have.

You don't have to remove the calipers and rotor to re&re the coil springs.

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by shepherd57

Peter
Where did you find that ball joint press. That is something I would like to have.

You don't have to remove the calipers and rotor to re&re the coil springs.

John,
But you have to remove the caliper and rotors to RR the ball joints. I didn't remove the springs.
I found only 1 on ebay, from someone in Maine. I believe it has been long discontinued.

[PeterH-350LE]

Here is a very pricey (450.-) entire set
Kent Moore J 9519 E Ball Joint Service Kit Remover Installer Set Tools | eBay

[PeterH-350LE]

By request, here are the dimensions for the press-in adapter J-9519-16
2 1/2 " x 1 1/4
Without the notches in the C clamp, it would not fit.

[bkahler]

Thanks Peter!

[bkahler]

Well thanks to an alert forum member I'm now the proud owner of a well used J-9519-10 ball joint press tool. It's not as pretty as Peter's is but it should do the job just fine


The adapter that came with the tool does not appear to be one that is used on a P-30 ball joint rebuild which means I'll need to fabricate whatever adapters are needed on my lathe.


Brad

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by bkahler

Well thanks to an alert forum member I'm now the proud owner of a well used J-9519-10 ball joint press tool. It's not as pretty as Peter's is but it should do the job just fine
Attachment 253908

The adapter that came with the tool does not appear to be one that is used on a P-30 ball joint rebuild which means I'll need to fabricate whatever adapters are needed on my lathe.
Attachment 253907

Brad

Heavy duty, isn't it. In case you haven't figured it out that adapter snaps on. Took me a while to figure that out. I thought mine was permanently attached.

[bkahler]

Peter, after reading your comment and looking at the picture you had posted previously I tried tapping the adapter off with no luck. The adapter spins on the shaft but will likely take a little bit of effort to get it off. I'll try again tonight.

Last night while relaxing in the recliner I was browsing through the 74 Light Truck service manual for my Argosy and ran across this page:


This page caught my attention because it mentions that the J-9519-10 press tool needs to be modified for use on a P-30 chassis! That got me to thinking back when I was dismantling the 345 I noticed that the parts on the 345 seemed to be beefier than on my 345. I remember doing some comparisons and there were some definite differences between my Argosy and the 345.

It would appear the differences are enough that the J-9519-10 press would need to be modified. What I don't know is if after the modification will the press still work for the later Classic's?

The next thing that caught my eye was this page:


The two adapter part numbers (J-9519-7 & J-9519-9) don't match with the ones that Peter used for his ball joint removal and replace. So being bored I decided to check ebay to see if these adapters might be available. Sure enough both were listed in separate auctions and both had "Make Offer" available. I made somewhat low-ball offers and both were accepted!

In theory I now have the correct tool for removal and replacement of the lower ball joints for the early (probably all) Argosies. I won't be modifying the ball joint press until I know for sure that it won't work as is on mine. Bottom line is if I have to modify it I will but it would be nice not to have to do so.

Brad