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Old 10-16-2012, 04:39 PM   #81
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Originally Posted by dadstoy View Post
Sounds like you guys are going to end up in the low 10's with your drag motors...sounds like your going a bit overboard.
LOL, well if a job is worth doing...
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Old 10-16-2012, 05:05 PM   #82
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LOL, well if a job is worth doing...
...have someone else do it
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Old 10-16-2012, 05:11 PM   #83
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Still a little away on the radiator issue, so all is in play...
I have see no sign of leaking or overheating, but I am concerned about the slight staining I can see on the top drivers side in this pic...

Yep, that's a bad sign. Last motorhome we had was stained like that and it eventually gave up and I had to replaced it. Radiator shop said it would be difficult to fix that type of issue.

Quote:
None of the radiators I have seen have the forward facing "remote" filler neck we have, but I could go without it...
It doesn't cost much to have a filler neck added to a radiator. Last one I did for my wife's race car cost about $35.

Quote:
4 row means coolant flows left to right 4 times?
That is my understanding but I'm not all that knowledgeable on this stuff. Last radiator shop I talked to suggested something like that for my Argosy before we realized the radiator had been replaced not to long ago and was in decent shape.
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Old 10-16-2012, 06:31 PM   #84
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I just re-core'd my radiator. Its a standard 454 4 pass that came in these rigs. That cost me just over $400, which was cheaper than new but more expensive than a cheap Chinese unit.
I wasn't losing too much fluid, but I did see a constant drip. I replaced the t-stat and water pump, hoses and belts while I had it open. Now, it starts up real quiet and gets up to 210 degrees and stays there, just like new. The original problem was that the clutch fan had lost some of the viscous fluid, became unbalanced and killed the water pump. If you take that out to recore, do the belts and whatever else you can grab your hands on. you will not regret it.
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Old 10-17-2012, 05:46 PM   #85
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I just did the change over to all electric fans thos spring. I have two 16 pushers one on top of the other with an engine oil cooler in front with its own 10. Onthe pass side i have a trans cooler with a 10 puller. When everything runs they pull 26amps but ahhhh you can't hear anything! I went this route be use the clutched fan kept throwing the belt and the soild fan sounded like a convair 990 at takeoff. Ipulled a 4000# boat in 105 heat and never got over 210f. Its dark here now but ill post pics
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Old 10-17-2012, 06:06 PM   #86
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I forgot to say you need to remove the fan shoud from the back side of the radiator that is the big trick to make the pushers work

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Fan control

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I ll post better pics later
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Old 11-30-2012, 04:16 PM   #87
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One the discussion of oil selection and the 454, there is a VERY good thread onver on the Benzworld forum about additives and oils for older designed flat tappet engines... and the original poster is Ps2cho... my eldest son... the apple falls close to the tree it seems!
It seems that the best oils are Diesel engine oils...
Lots of great info there.
Diesel Oil Faceoff! - Rotella-T, Rotella-T6, Delo 400, Mobil1 5-40 - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum
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Old 12-06-2012, 10:36 AM   #88
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Foound this little gem of knowledge regarding the cooling system on the GM P30 Chassis...
Read 4 and 5...
If your sealing curtains are missing... take note!

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Old 12-06-2012, 10:54 AM   #89
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Exhaust Manifold issues

Another great bit of info for exhaust manifld cracking and plug wire burning...
Note the second page where they mention the effects of a missing engne shield!



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Old 12-06-2012, 10:56 AM   #90
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Good find.

Our 84 310 has the rubber sealing panel above the radiator and we don't have problems with running hot whether at idle or at speed.

The 345 I dismantled did not have the rubber sealing panel installed and it showed signs of over heating such as radiator core leaking and no thermostat installed.

I've already got the rubber to make the sealing panel for my Argosy. I do need to fabricate filler panels for the sides similar to the 310/345. I have the left side panel from the 345 to use as a starting point but there are enough differences that it will need modification. I'll worry about the right side when I get to it.

Brad
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Old 12-06-2012, 11:00 AM   #91
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What rubber did you get to make the radiator panel?
Ours is MIA...

Pretty sure ours has the RH wheelarch panel, and like the LH, I plan to remove and paint it, so let me know if you need some dimensions!
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Old 12-06-2012, 11:09 AM   #92
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What rubber did you get to make the radiator panel?
Ours is MIA...

Pretty sure ours has the RH wheelarch panel, and like the LH, I plan to remove and paint it, so let me know if you need some dimensions!
I'm not sure which rubber sheet that I bought but this is the seller I bought from.

Rubber panel

Starting dimensions are always good!

Brad
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Old 12-13-2012, 01:09 PM   #93
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Brad,
Further to the discussion about the engine side panels...
Did not get any sizes, but it looks like a simple flat sheet of steel on the passenger side.. no flanges, no contour at all.
I will pull it off soon and get you some dimensions, but I just gave the bolts a good douse of PB Blaster for this week.

Somehow, I was expecting it to be like the drivers side, but I guess that fits around the Hyydroboost unit..
FYI.., this pic was taken from the engine side of how it would be mounted... I think!
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Old 12-13-2012, 03:20 PM   #94
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I need to compare the right hand side panels on the 310 to the ones I removed from the 345. I may already have what I need and didn't realize it

I vaguely remember removing one or two basically flat squarish panels from the right side of the 345. I'll look at the 310 in the morning.

Brad
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Old 12-13-2012, 04:24 PM   #95
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Hi, all,

I don't participate too much in the MH stuff. It has been way too long to remember and I don't have access to all the OLD info I had when I was in Central Office. None of it made its way to our electronic database as we got out of that business some time back.
BUT one thing I remember is the above airflow info. IT IS CRITICAL. You will do yourself well to close out around the radiator and the wheel well. It is cheap and will cure many ills. I really don't remember if AS was a big(ger) issue than some other MH manufacturers, but with the age these are getting, I'd wager a lot of the units have missing or damaged closeout rubber.

As I recall the wheel well close outs are an even bigger issue than the radiator close outs.
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Old 12-14-2012, 01:54 PM   #96
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I'm at a stand-still with the harmonic balancer installed.
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Still no wrist-pin clips. Called them (Powerhouse) last Friday Didn't get in the mail till Monday to arrive Wednesday or Thursday. Now It's Friday and NO CLIPS. Ordered this November 12th. About ready to box this junk up and send it back. Called a couple places locally, "The clips come with the pistons." So, I call the makers of the pistons, 'Probe Industries' and they are going to mail me another set.
Now I guess I'll go take the wife shopping....NO ANYTHING BUT THAT!!!!
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Old 12-14-2012, 02:09 PM   #97
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Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
Hi, all,

I don't participate too much in the MH stuff. It has been way too long to remember and I don't have access to all the OLD info I had when I was in Central Office. None of it made its way to our electronic database as we got out of that business some time back.
BUT one thing I remember is the above airflow info. IT IS CRITICAL. You will do yourself well to close out around the radiator and the wheel well. It is cheap and will cure many ills. I really don't remember if AS was a big(ger) issue than some other MH manufacturers, but with the age these are getting, I'd wager a lot of the units have missing or damaged closeout rubber.

As I recall the wheel well close outs are an even bigger issue than the radiator close outs.
Thanks for the feedback. This might explain why our 310 never seems to have heat related issues. It has the rubber shroud up front and the wheel well guards in place as well. The 345 that I dismantled did have the wheel well guards but it didn't have the rubber shroud up front. I believe it had heat related issues, I say that because the radiator looked like it had suffered from heat and the engine did not have a thermostat installed which is usually a last ditch attempt to try and get an engine to run cooler.

Thanks!

Brad
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Old 12-14-2012, 02:11 PM   #98
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I'm at a stand-still with the harmonic balancer installed.
Attachment 174624

Still no wrist-pin clips. Called them (Powerhouse) last Friday Didn't get in the mail till Monday to arrive Wednesday or Thursday. Now It's Friday and NO CLIPS. Ordered this November 12th. About ready to box this junk up and send it back. Called a couple places locally, "The clips come with the pistons." So, I call the makers of the pistons, 'Probe Industries' and they are going to mail me another set.
Now I guess I'll go take the wife shopping....NO ANYTHING BUT THAT!!!!
It's amazing how the smallest thing can hold up progress. Hopefully you'll have the clips early next week.


Brad
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Old 12-14-2012, 02:11 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
I'm not sure which rubber sheet that I bought but this is the seller I bought from.

Rubber panel

Starting dimensions are always good!

Brad
I found some 'rubber dam' material in Okla City at a oil field supply house. Sold by weight and is dang heavy (and expensive) Used it to block the air behind the right headlight into a 2nd cooler I have in the transmission oil line and the fresh air inlet to the cabin vent. Thought I could get a picture of it while the radiator is out but can't get a angle on it to see.
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Old 05-03-2014, 11:17 AM   #100
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454 vortec 7.4 water in oil, trying to trace source

Google search came up with this site specific to 454 and this major problem.
We had MH ready to roll except for an oil change, on draining oil noticed color even while under MH, rusty and cloudy, cancelled trip.
Prior to this no indications, no smoke, no loss of coolant.
After discovery did see radiator overflow tank was down below min and had been slightly above max. Research came up with head gasket, intake manifold gasket failure and condensation.
Did the pressure test on cylinders and they all pressure test 160 with a couple up to 180 but all held steady, head gasket and too much water for condensation and the missing antifreeze.
From reading this forum, cooling radiator might be sharing with oil.
Too wet out right now to crawl around under MH to check the backside of radiator, to see if I have oil lines into it.

My question is: What tests can I do to isolate source and solve?
Physically getting to intake manifold gasket to see and replace requires a lot of effort, which I will do after I have exhausted all other possibilities.
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