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Old 03-10-2016, 07:30 PM   #221
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Sorry Dan.... What rear gears you have?
I have 4.56:1 gears. I think all the P-30 Airstream used the 4.56 gear.

For the Gearvendors just take your front driveshaft to a local driveshaft shop and have it cut to size and rebalanced. Mine needed to be straightened also. The whole thing cost about $150. The parking brake is moved back the length of the unit so they sell a short extension cable. They also sell a deep sump oil pan so the oil stays a little cooler.
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Old 03-11-2016, 06:08 AM   #222
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Just for reference, my 360 runs about 2000 rpms at 62 mph which really seems to be the sweet spot. The Allison ratio in 6th is .65:1.

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Old 03-15-2016, 12:40 PM   #223
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Tach Flywheel Teeth

I am trying to get my Tach to work, decided to go with the Dakota Digital DSL-2E since it seems to be the most reliable system that seems simple to set up if you have the correct information. The information I am missing is the amount of teeth I have on my flywheel, I have a 1988 6BT with an Allison AT545 behind it. I will do some digging, but I thought one or more of you would know.
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Old 03-15-2016, 03:54 PM   #224
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I am trying to get my Tach to work, decided to go with the Dakota Digital DSL-2E since it seems to be the most reliable system that seems simple to set up if you have the correct information. The information I am missing is the amount of teeth I have on my flywheel, I have a 1988 6BT with an Allison AT545 behind it. I will do some digging, but I thought one or more of you would know.
I gave up on that and went with the 'R' terminate off the back of the alternator. Just need to know the number of staters, ratio of drive pulley to alternator pulley. I went with a 1-wire alternator so the voltage divider had to go, cause it needs voltage to excite it.


Just finished installing a electric wrench 100% duty cycle reply to replace the voltage divider.....
Of course nothing will change w/o a fight. All the connectors are 1/4" and the new relay is 7/16" studs.
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Now the 55 amp converter I installed in 2011 to rid myself of the battery frying Univolte has quit.
Found a 75 amp I may buy. I don't remember the amp size of the Univolt. I guess 55 amp wasn't big enough.
http://www.americanrvcompany.com/Pow...iler-Camper-RV

Now I have a used voltage divider.... If anyone needs one.
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Old 03-21-2016, 10:59 AM   #225
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Got my gauges all installed and fired 'r' up.

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'Peddle to the metal' the tach reads 2400 rpms. Maybe the tach isn't reading right ????? I thought it would max out close to 2700 rpm?????

So, at 2400 rpm, no load from top to bottom:
Boost: 7 psi
EGT: 4000 degrees
IP input: 10-12 psi (lift pump psi should be higher)
Lift pump input ????
The cheap 'Glow Gauge' pressure gauge bounces from 0-30 from the tank to the lift pump. I put a 5 psi regulator.
Think I'll go buy me another (but good) oil pressure gauge and throw the cheap 'Glow Gauge' in the trash. I've bought 3 'Glow Gauge' gauges. This one will join the other two a the land fill.
It's the wrong color anyway.
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Old 03-21-2016, 11:06 AM   #226
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Mel
If the EGT'S are reading 4000 you are going to do damage. The egt should no be over 1100 on a hard pull
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Old 03-21-2016, 11:15 AM   #227
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Mel
If the EGT'S are reading 4000 you are going to do damage. The egt should no be over 1100 on a hard pull
I was just going to suggest that maybe he read the gauge wrong! I can't believe the exhaust could get that hot.
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Old 03-21-2016, 11:47 AM   #228
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Shouldnt one be concerned of any reading over 1300
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Old 03-21-2016, 12:04 PM   #229
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Shouldnt one be concerned of any reading over 1300
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Old 03-21-2016, 12:10 PM   #230
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I was just going to suggest that maybe he read the gauge wrong! I can't believe the exhaust could get that hot.
And that's w/o a load.
I don't know why the lift pump is only producing 12 psi @2400 rpm.... Should be 12 at idle and 30 psi at speed. This maybe why it would act like it was starving for fuel when I did take it out on the road and why the EGT is 4000 degrees. May be running lean even w/o a load. Would take it for a run today, but the wind's blowing at 30+ mph and for the rest of the week.

I haven't dropped the tank and removed the high pressure fuel pump yet. Was hopping to get by with the Holley 5 pound regulator inline till I ran the fuel out.

Here's the problems: fuel pressure too high to lift pump; lift pump too low, not getting max rpm and need exhaust system.
Wonder it I could put the right pressure electric pump in the tank and bypass the mechanical lift pump????

Got to quite running off so much. Was gone 2 1/2 months this winter. I'm packing now to go an a mission trip and won't be back till 10 April..... Then I'm gone again almost all of May into June.

Can't find anything now. I need a job so I can rest!
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Old 03-21-2016, 12:20 PM   #231
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Mike

If you are getting 1300 I would be finding out why. 1100 max on a long pull mine runs 950 to 1000 and I worry it is to hot.

Heading out now to see if I can find a couple of fan belts
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Old 03-21-2016, 12:29 PM   #232
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Need to correct the trash gauge... It's a 'Glow Shift' gauge! None are worth bring home.
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Old 03-21-2016, 12:36 PM   #233
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Mel as others stated 4000 deg is just wrong.

Do you have an IR temp gun? Hit the same area as thermocouple for a check. Expect it to be lower. On the outside.

Boost. I don't think you're going to see peak boost w/o putting the Cummins in harness and asking it to do real work not just revving it up.
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Old 03-21-2016, 01:40 PM   #234
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Yes John, Ive never seen my EGT go over 1200 on a long pull. I just thought I had read to keep it under 1300 on the Isuzu or you risk damage to the motor.
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Old 03-21-2016, 01:49 PM   #235
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May be different on the Cummins.
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Old 03-21-2016, 06:20 PM   #236
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454 to Cummins

Aluminum has its heat limits.
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Old 03-21-2016, 07:37 PM   #237
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Well maybe it's in hundred and not thousands? The 2400 rpm at full throttle is not right either.... or the pulley ratio is way off
Next chance I get I'll swap the fuel pressure gauges and see what they read then.
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Old 03-21-2016, 08:10 PM   #238
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The old line of thought was 1250 degrees was max safe temp before things started to melt. I have been told some of the new technology allows higher temps. The thermocouple probe is mounted in the exhaust manifold before the turbo. Mounting after the turbo will give you a cooler temp.

On my 280 the original BAE pyrometer would approach 1200-1250 if pushed on a grade. It's readings were fairly consistent and predictable. Finally the gauge gave up the ghost. I replaced it with an Isspro gauge. Isspro is considered to be a quality gauge. The readings were frightening. It would show 1300 degrees under a moderate acceleration.
I called Isspro and they sent me another gauge. It showed the same kind of temps. In frustration I bought an Auto Meter pyrometer. Surprisingly it showed the same temps as the Isspro gauges.

Now was the BAE gauge correct and the three replacement gauges wrong or the other way around. Bottom line who can say for sure. What I do is watch both the boost, exhaust temp and exhaust smoke and drive on the conservative side. There is no need to drive pedal to the metal as it is a recreational vehicle and I am certainly not on the clock. I see no reason to be at more then 75-80% throttle. It makes me happy and the old Isuzu seems happy as it continues to rumble down the highway.
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Old 03-21-2016, 08:37 PM   #239
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1250 is the maximum EGT one should see and that only for a few seconds to keep from melting or deforming the aluminum compressor wheel. The Turbine wheel living in the exhaust stream was a niconel of some variation in our turbochargers we made in the 50s and 60s.
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Old 03-22-2016, 01:16 AM   #240
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I've had decent luck with Glowshift gauges.

The lift pump should put out about 20-30 psi with about 15 at idle.

EGT on mine will hit 1200 on a hard pull. Normal cruising at 65mph is about 800 degrees and 7 lbs boost. On acceleration the boost will hit about 30 psi and the EGT will hit about 1100 degrees. Fuel pressure at cruise runs about 25 psi.

The star wheel in the fuel pump adjusts the fuel delivery and can be set to keep EGT down at the expense of power.

My governing speed is about 2800 rpms.
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