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Old 11-07-2015, 08:52 PM   #121
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Amazing! As soon as it stops pouring enough for me to get outside I will get some pics for you.
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Old 11-08-2015, 06:32 AM   #122
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Brad,


yes it did. I haven't found any other front original cummins. So that adds to a whole new level of research since it is so unique and me with out any mechanical ability!

However, I am extremely happy with the set up.
Very cool! If I had the time and money (and energy!) I'd do a Cummins diesel or ford 7.3 turbo diesel conversion myself.
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Old 11-08-2015, 08:19 PM   #123
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1986 34.5' Airstream 345
choctaw , Oklahoma
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Well, my hoist system kind-a sucked, but I got the head back on. Started the torquing sequence. They say do it in three increases. I started at 50 and went up 10 pound till I got to 130 pounds. Real chore to get all the push rods in the lifter and in the rockers. I'll let it set for a day and re-torque. Let me tell you, it's dang hard pulling 130 pounds of torque on your hands and knees! When the head stops sinking the exhaust manifold is next. Looking like more steel is coming out to make room for the turbo.
Mel and his grinder will win over.... I hope.
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Old 11-09-2015, 06:51 PM   #124
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Mel,

Sounds like quite the job torquing! I think I would probably take out the front seats so I had room to work. I am a fat klutz, so the more room the better!

Here are the pics of how my engine sits and the air intake. Which reminds me.... I have to clean the engine this winter and put a turbo cover on...

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Old 11-09-2015, 07:35 PM   #125
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2007 30' Classic S/O
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How many miles on it? Good time to pull the timing cover and make sure the Killer dowel pin is locked in place by a retainer.
Mel,

This is great advice, its the one built in Achillies Heel of this engine series. Easily fixed or checked but can go from annoying to aw SNAP if allowed to.

Details all over the web. I even did my '97 but it was after the fact, nasty.

Gary
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Old 11-10-2015, 06:55 AM   #126
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1986 34.5' Airstream 345
choctaw , Oklahoma
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Wxbuoy, nice looking dog house! Looks like it's wider to the right than mine.
Where's your alternator?

I had to make some more scrap iron to get the turbo in. Diffidently going to need a turbo blanket or I'll have fried wife toe's for supper after that first trip
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Have a high alternator mount brackets coming in today:
3934117 bracket, belt tensioner $33.16+shipping
3930888 connection, water inlet 164.51+shipping
3930820 support, alternator 28.72+shipping
3920862 brace, alternator 30.86+shipping
3976833 tensioner, belt 113.24+shipping

With the new bracket, need a:
8349 22si alternator, 145 amp 245.00
Which I'm going to go paid for today.

Not sure how I'm going to connect all the 3" pipe for the intercooler. My plan was to mount it under the right wheel well, but that don't look ideal now that I have the cooler?????

I'm in a pattern, go to town in the AM, play with AS in the PM.
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Old 11-10-2015, 11:50 AM   #127
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I sure hope you're not weakening the framework too much with all the cuts you've made. Just a thought. Might want to consider some reinforcement once everything is installed.
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Old 11-11-2015, 07:26 PM   #128
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I sure hope you're not weakening the framework too much with all the cuts you've made. Just a thought. Might want to consider some reinforcement once everything is installed.
That is in my plans
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Old 11-11-2015, 08:02 PM   #129
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Checked on the fan. Wanted to use the Chevy fan blades, but they would clean the crank pulley, so the dodge fan blades get used.Click image for larger version

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Not too much clearance from the radiator frame though.
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Here's how it looks with the intercooler on the radiator frame. Got the turbo out duct turned to point up rather then down toward he left wheel well.
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The alternator shop had the 'bus' 175Amp+ alternator in stock, so I bought it. The trouble is it's really really BIG and goes within 2" of the inlet to the turbo, so, back the the 22 si 145amp, which I have to order.
I got the wrong water inlet too. The one I got turns 90 degrees down right into the frame. And of courses the guys at Cummins didn't have a clue about the p/n of a straight one. W/O engine s/n they can't find their butts. Will cut the one I got off and weld it on straight.
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Old 11-12-2015, 09:44 AM   #130
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Here's the air cleaner I used on my retrofit. Very happy with it.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1468633
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Old 11-13-2015, 08:08 AM   #131
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Air Dog, Your air inlet looks good!! My turbo is mounted higher plus I have the front wheel.
My plan is to find some flexible tubing to go over the alternator and out the front over the radiator.
Had to cut a big amount of the alternator bracket out to clear the water outlet. Ran a string around the pulleys to get the belt length. The phrase that fits now is: 'Houston, we have a problem.' Can't use this water inlet, don't clear the belt.
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Good think I kept the chuck I cut out of the bracket. Can weld it back together.
Today go on the hurt for a different water outlet. Friend said I should look at the Case fork lift they have where he works. It has a 4 cummins.
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Old 11-17-2015, 04:19 PM   #132
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I've been hard at it. Spend all day in Oklahoma City looking for the next part, then get home about 3:00 and work.
Dangit! they changed the format for pictures! Well I ain't reloading them.

1)Got my engine stop figured out.

2)Those two little aluminum tubes next to the oil filter is the A/C out/inlets. Going to the get my hoses to the A/C shop still today.

3)Got the water outlet that points up and the piece welded back into the alternator bracket. But not the right belt yet.

4)And my fairing as it looked before going to my local votech. They've had it for a week now. I can see why the instructor isn't out working for a living. Have yet to get him the follow verbal instruction. Going to get in today, do or not!! I'll just pop rivet it.

I'm off to town AGAIN: belt, A/C hose and sound/heat insulation.
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Old 11-17-2015, 08:15 PM   #133
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The A/C setup has changed from what I had envisioned. So I get to make another trip to the A/C shop to get them crimped after I mark the the fitting. Good! Still real tight to the oil filter
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I've been on the search for this sound proofing material like is around the dog house. But in all of Oklahoma City, none!
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My fairing has untold numbers of pop rivets in it now, plus some welding. Then I've painted it with the Rust-Oleum metallic charcoal 22442224 spay paint. Went to 4 different Wal-marts to find one can of it. So I ordered it to be delivered to my local Wally-World and got a text that it had arrived within 10 minutes. They had it in back.
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Took the radiator back to get the 2 inch lower replaced with a 1 7/8" only to learn this evening that no 1 7/8" is available. Time to stretch that baby over the 2"er?
Worked some on the mess of the wiring harness and mounted the cruise control. Getting close!!!!
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Old 11-19-2015, 12:30 PM   #134
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Now Mel, just remember to purge all old gas this sucker only wants #2.

You do know about the primer on the fuel pump?
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Old 11-19-2015, 01:02 PM   #135
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For hood/dog house insulation check out the products made by Dynamat. They make products specifically for under the hood applications. This is top shelf material. An automotive supplier could get this or possibly in another brand. A friend put this in this 7.3 Ford and quieted down the interior considerably.

Dynamat.com | Dynamat Sound Damping | Thermal Solutions
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Old 11-20-2015, 05:17 PM   #136
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I got my Boom Mat from Speedway Motors.
It is about 3/4" thick and looks very similar to the material Jackson Center used. That Butyl stuff is pretty heavy. I was afraid it would make my engine cover too heavy.
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Old 11-21-2015, 03:36 PM   #137
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The Dynamat can get pretty heavy. It's designed to reduce noise across a wide spectrum of frequencies. It take mass to attenuate the lower frequencies. Thus the weight requirement.
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Old 11-21-2015, 07:06 PM   #138
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Mel,
A couple of years ago, I posted in the 4BT swap forum...
Great place to post if you run into an issue, but here is a link to that thread, where they talk about Dave's install and what they see as far as alternator and turbo mounts..

Airstream Motorhome diesel conversion... advice and input requested....
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Old 11-22-2015, 04:45 PM   #139
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I found some sound proofing in the form of a black mating called 'Black Magic'. Peel & stick and when it sticks it's there! Then I just drove from one truck parts outlet to the next. At Mack Trucks I got a piece of form made to go in one of the trucks cavities for sound proofing.

Well drat! I can't load any more pictures I'm full up. Guess I need to delete some to add some.
More to follow.
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Old 11-23-2015, 04:03 PM   #140
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can't figure out how to delete my old pictures. Anyone have that secret in their pocket?

Did get the fairing bolted on and the two coolers attached to it. Had to backup and cut some of the rivets I put too close for the end tanks to clear. Then some spacers needed to be added.
After that, I just sat there and stared at it. After a while I started looking for my lower radiator hose.... I call the radiator guy to see if I had left it there... No. I did find it and with the radiator fan fair in place it looks like the stock Dodge lower will work just fine. Now the upper is still a problem to be solved.

Hope the radiator will be ready before Thursday too. About time to turn the 12v on and see if the shop fills with smoke and fire. If not I can bump it around, get the converter bolts in and the valve lash set.

Then with radiator full of water, transmission full of oil it will be time to see if it will come back to life!

So close, but so far.

Dang I hate this no pictures
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