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Old 10-24-2015, 06:45 AM   #61
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Here is an excerpt from his wifes blog detailing their first journey out of Florida up to Maine. Interesting read.
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Airstream Odyssey 2012 Ends in Bittersweet Emotion
OCTOBER 4, 2012

A 5,538-mile journey from Key West to Maine and back ended last week with the utterance “worst vacation ever.” However, post-sleep and post-beer reflection shed kindlier light on the experience.

We battled our new engine’s computer system, cursing whomever decided to cut engine power if a sensor detected soot on an emissions filter. There was no soot, as a digital readout indicated on a device Josh bought months ago to retrieve information from that computer. In fact, there was no filter. That filter was part of the exhaust system on the pickup truck in which the engine originally resided. The Airstream (we argue) should not be required to meet modern emissions requirements just as other vehicles of its vintage. As such, we did not install the filter.

Josh test drove the new engine in the Keys over hundreds of miles before he deemed it ready to for a road trip. That sleepy sensor woke up in northern Florida, however, reached out to find a cold, empty pillow where a filter once was and freaked out.

There were several pros to all the cons. First of all, the Space Coast RV Resort welcomed us at the exact place we puttered off the road. Secondly, Josh’s computer-reading device allowed us to clear the error message and drive with full engine power for 5 to ten minutes at a time, before that lonely sensor cried out again. Josh and I had a decision to make as the sun set on the Friday before a long, holiday weekend: Turn back; wait until repair shops reopened on Tuesday; or limp to Maine on US-1. We chose limp, which unveiled a third pro, a scenic drive (and fewer people who flipped us the bird).

The following night in the middle of rural Georgia, we discovered another computer glitch. The fuel gauge was not calibrated to the Airstream’s 80-gallon tank. At that time, Josh and I had worked out a system in which we would clear the error messages, drive like hell until we suddenly could not go above 30 mph, pull over to a complete stop, which the computer required to clear error codes, and so on.

So, perhaps some of you might sympathize when I tell you that I did not realize when performing a routine pull-over that we were not merely slowing down but out of diesel. The generator was on, rumbling away, so I did not immediately conclude the engine was off. I cleared the error messages and attempted to pull back on the road when Josh arose from a cat-nap and said, “Put it in park, we’re rolling backwards down the hill.”

And there I will leave it off. It took me days to write that much since Josh and I continue the struggle to launch our new business and find a way to survive at the same time. I hope by month’s end I will be posting photos of our first PAYING customers!
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Old 10-24-2015, 07:31 AM   #62
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OMG! Going to Kansas next week to look at a 1996 cummins.

Mel,

If you get a 96 12 valve I have a 96 Dodge Ram factory service manual.

It's yours if you want it.

Covers the Cummins quite nicely. And drum roll please I'll send you an engine barring tool too. Very helpful for rotating the engine for valve adjustments etc.

There, that should seal the deal for you.

Gary
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Old 10-26-2015, 04:58 PM   #63
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Look what the cats drug in!!! 1996 Dodge Cummins.

I will be reading all the Halloween stores about how crazy I am for the next how very long this takes.

First step: order adapter, motor mounts, starter.

Want could possibly go wrong? just slide that baby in and fire her up Right
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Old 10-26-2015, 05:00 PM   #64
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Mel,

If you get a 96 12 valve I have a 96 Dodge Ram factory service manual.

It's yours if you want it.

Covers the Cummins quite nicely. And drum roll please I'll send you an engine barring tool too. Very helpful for rotating the engine for valve adjustments etc.

There, that should seal the deal for you.

Gary
I like your offer. Now how?
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Old 10-26-2015, 05:41 PM   #65
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Heck, looks like a WD40 and Duct Tape job.

A little WD40 to help it slide into place and a little Duct Tape to hold it in place and you're good to go

Mel, definitely looking forward to watching your progress on this little project

Brad
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Old 10-26-2015, 05:44 PM   #66
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Mel,

Just PM me an address, I'll get it mailed to you.

6 in a row makes 'em go!

Now, just make sure the engine adapter plate that is on the back of that beast has the two hollow dowel sleeves in it. One at about 3 and one at about 9 O'clock. Alignment sleeves, super duper critical for happy transmission, manual or AT.

Gary
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Old 10-27-2015, 11:15 AM   #67
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Sweeet!

One bit of info I did glean from GWBakers swap thread was that the motor would not go in with the head and oilpan on....

See post #26 for info and good pics, and also #29.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311...e-38432-2.html


Also he wrote this in post #39..

1. Had to run a nylon strap around the engine and through the chain hole on the cherry picker. cummins is 1100lbs / 454 is 750lbs
2. moved the front crossmember forward about 2 inches, but after I located the tranny rear mount, I realized that I probably did not need to move the crossmember.
3. Unforseen obstacles: I had to totally remove the doghouse once the head was on so I could drop the pushrods in. didnt see that one coming. Also, I waited over a month for those stupid motor mounts from ACD engines in SLC, Utah, but they did not work. They are only for the chevy transmission setup as the adapter plate for the chevy has the cummins tilted off to one side. I tried to modify them, but to no avail. So what you see is the mounts I scarfed and modded out of the dodge. I cant say enough about the importance of buying a donor truck for all these little ankle biters.
4. I'm a helicopter pilot by trade, but I grew up on a dairy farm in NY and have been swapping engines and turning wrenches my whole life. I am also an aircraft airframe and powerplant certified mechanic. When I get out of the service, I would love to start getting some diesel certifications just so I could start digging into these cummins engines a little deeper (I.E. inj pumps etc.)
5.original budget was 7k, but I'm estimating 9k in the end with everything. I could have easily kept under 7k if I would have reused some things, but I just could not help it.
6. My goal is 15MPG @ 55MPH. I will turn screws and adjust tranny shift points to try for this goal.
7. That picture is the vacuum control switch that controls the exhaust brake. The big silver cylinder on the right side of the engine is the vacuum cylinder that actuates the brake.
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Old 10-27-2015, 03:28 PM   #68
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Heck, looks like a WD40 and Duct Tape job.



A little WD40 to help it slide into place and a little Duct Tape to hold it in place and you're good to go



Mel, definitely looking forward to watching your progress on this little project



Brad

Image from https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com...0f2918ccb8.jpg.
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Old 10-27-2015, 03:46 PM   #69
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Attachment 251087

Look what the cats drug in!!! 1996 Dodge Cummins.

I will be reading all the Halloween stores about how crazy I am for the next how very long this takes.

First step: order adapter, motor mounts, starter.

Want could possibly go wrong? just slide that baby in and fire her up Right

How many miles on it? Good time to pull the timing cover and make sure the Killer dowel pin is locked in place by a retainer. Water pumps are pretty cheap and easy to replace at this stage. I'd also pull the valve covers and adjust the valves. Also easy now. Good to check the lift pump too. The front and rear seals are also easy to replace now. New water pump, lift pump, front and rear seals, belt, would run about $300 in parts.
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Old 10-27-2015, 04:32 PM   #70
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Awesome! Keep us updated. If by chance you run into any problems let us know. Someone on the forum will likely a answer for you.
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Old 10-28-2015, 06:52 AM   #71
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I ordered an adapter plate, flex plate and motor mounts from Performance Auto in Bossier, La. They tell me I need a Ford 6.0 diesel starter and will need to grind the engine block off for starter clearance.

Kota, it's got 200000 on it. Was a farm truck for sure, cause the radiator and intercooler are full of wheat chat. I will do the valve lash after I get the head back on. W/new head gasket and re-torque would need to anyway.

I measured the opening to engine and the head must come off. Thanks Keyair for the reminded about the push rods. Yes, the Cummins weighs more that my engine (1000#) hoist will keep up. May have to get a bigger hoist.

Got to figure out how much of the wiring harness can be removed. Got a couple or three relays on the driver side of the dog house that I have no idea if needed or not.
Better wait and see if I can get enough WD-40 to squeeze this thing in before I go wild removing the gas'r parts.

All that's left to do this week is wait for the UPS truck.
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Old 10-28-2015, 08:09 AM   #72
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Mel,

Why the 6.0L starter? Something getting changed on flex plate?

I've installed several clutches on 12V, 24V and HPCR Cummins all used grade 12.9 bolts for flywheels. Be careful.

I have pics from my old '97 and can double check but pretty darn sure you have dowels on both sides of the engine to trans adaptor plate. Please check.

The manual will have full wiring diagrams for you to figure it out.

KDP inspection, excellent suggestion.

Engine oil analysis? Or was it previously running?
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Old 10-28-2015, 11:33 AM   #73
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Assume this is the adaptor you are using, and the Ford starter fits that change.

4BT and 6BT Cummins Adapter, Chevy 4L80E TH400 700R4 4L60E
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Old 10-28-2015, 11:39 AM   #74
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Found this fun video too...

Cummins Diesel Swap | Xtreme Off-Road | PowerNation TV - Full Episodes
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Old 10-28-2015, 11:03 PM   #75
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http://classicbroncos.com/forums/sho...5&postcount=20

Here's a link to a swap my brother just completed. I swapped a 5.0 HO and ZF 5 speed into my 83 Bronco about 15 years. I gave it to my brother. He did a nose dive into a creek that was about 4 feet deeper than he thought. Hydro locked the engine. He just completed the Cummins 4bt swap.
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Old 10-30-2015, 04:46 PM   #76
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Mel,

Why the 6.0L starter? Something getting changed on flex plate?

I've installed several clutches on 12V, 24V and HPCR Cummins all used grade 12.9 bolts for flywheels. Be careful.

I have pics from my old '97 and can double check but pretty darn sure you have dowels on both sides of the engine to trans adaptor plate. Please check.

The manual will have full wiring diagrams for you to figure it out.

KDP inspection, excellent suggestion.

Engine oil analysis? Or was it previously running?
The 6.0 starter is what they said to use. Don't know why.

Getting the flex plat and the bolts from them.

I need a wiring diagram for the Chevy part more than the Dodge part, but thanks:<)

Will see what the adapter plate looks like when I get it. Hope the pins are there.
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Old 10-30-2015, 04:48 PM   #77
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Assume this is the adaptor you are using, and the Ford starter fits that change.

4BT and 6BT Cummins Adapter, Chevy 4L80E TH400 700R4 4L60E
Yep, that's the one.
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Old 10-30-2015, 04:53 PM   #78
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ClassicBroncos.com Forums

Here's a link to a swap my brother just completed. I swapped a 5.0 HO and ZF 5 speed into my 83 Bronco about 15 years. I gave it to my brother. He did a nose dive into a creek that was about 4 feet deeper than he thought. Hydro locked the engine. He just completed the Cummins 4bt swap.
Of all and forms I'm on, that's not one of them. Guess I need to join another to fry my brain in front of this laptop. One ting about it, there is a lot of swaps on the internet, but I haven't found one into a 34.5
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Old 10-30-2015, 06:00 PM   #79
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Started out to be something, but my east Germain internet ain't up to it. They never did get back the the 'rock crawler'

I did get the engine outside and power washed some of the farm dirt off it. Noticed the absence of the dipstick, no turbo down tube to start with.

Mind you I'm just a redneck with a chain hoist in the tree out back.
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Old 10-30-2015, 10:27 PM   #80
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Started out to be something, but my east Germain internet ain't up to it. They never did get back the the 'rock crawler'

I did get the engine outside and power washed some of the farm dirt off it. Noticed the absence of the dipstick, no turbo down tube to start with.

Mind you I'm just a redneck with a chain hoist in the tree out back.

When you figure out where your exhaust needs to go I can give you some recommendations on parts and sources. Keep in mind that there are several exhaust manifold options for the turbo location. Both on top of the manifold and bottom. There are some multi piece manifolds that help with stress and cracking. They are pretty reasonably priced.

If you think you might want an exhaust brake this is the time to install it. Keep in mind you will have to put 60 lb exhaust valve springs in it.
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