Driveshaft Quick Disconnect

[Magnet18]

I'm looking at making my 4runner my toad behind my RV for flat-four towing. I'm not terribly opposed to crawling under and hooking up the driveshaft every time, but does anybody have any experience with the quick disconnects like this link, or the remco units?
https://www.trailtough.com/product/rear-drive-disconnect-for-toyotas/

It's not a rock crawler, just might want it for dirt roads the fit can't handle, and I can't sleep in the back of the jeep (and the 4runner is better in every way anyway)

Thanks

[tevake]

Don't know of a quick disconnect, but isn't the 4Runner a bit heavy to tow with a classic?

Cheers Richard

[Magnet18]

My 86 4runner is a convertible, with a soft top it is only about 200 pounds heavier than the Jeep I currently pull, and 500 pounds lighter than bobs chevy volt was... I figure it's worth a try

[martin300662]

Whilst investigating the best approach for towing my Triumph Vitesse (which has an issue being towed as a the lay shaft will be turning un-lubricated), I had a circular/pointless discussion with Remco, first around if the disconnect would work, then only to find it can only be fitted to a limited number of specific models due to the mounting design. So I think you will have better success with the Toyota specific solution.

For me the best solution was to put the car in 4th gear (its stick shift) and depress the clutch.

[bkahler]

Rob,

My mom and dad towed a Mazda pickup behind their 20' Coachmen for years using a driveshaft disconnect. They never had issues and it was quick and easy to use.

Brad

[Magnet18]

Originally Posted by bkahler

Rob,

My mom and dad towed a Mazda pickup behind their 20' Coachmen for years using a driveshaft disconnect. They never had issues and it was quick and easy to use.

Brad

Thanks Brad!

[Magnet18]

Originally Posted by martin300662

Whilst investigating the best approach for towing my Triumph Vitesse (which has an issue being towed as a the lay shaft will be turning un-lubricated), I had a circular/pointless discussion with Remco, first around if the disconnect would work, then only to find it can only be fitted to a limited number of specific models due to the mounting design. So I think you will have better success with the Toyota specific solution.

For me the best solution was to put the car in 4th gear (its stick shift) and depress the clutch.

That's not something I had thought of, thanks!

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by martin300662

Whilst investigating the best approach for towing my Triumph Vitesse (which has an issue being towed as a the lay shaft will be turning un-lubricated), I had a circular/pointless discussion with Remco, first around if the disconnect would work, then only to find it can only be fitted to a limited number of specific models due to the mounting design. So I think you will have better success with the Toyota specific solution.

For me the best solution was to put the car in 4th gear (its stick shift) and depress the clutch.

Martin,

At one time I thought you were looking into a light aluminum trailer. Did plans change?

[Magnet18]

Originally Posted by martin300662

For me the best solution was to put the car in 4th gear (its stick shift) and depress the clutch.

So what hardware do you use to keep the clutch depressed? I tried searching and didn't find anything. Homebuilt, or are there kits out there?

[GCinSC2]

Originally Posted by Magnet18

So what hardware do you use to keep the clutch depressed? I tried searching and didn't find anything. Homebuilt, or are there kits out there?

I’m in the clutch business, my 39th year.

I don’t know what the toad is that this refers to but I’m saying highly NOT RECOMMENDED.

1. Any system that has a pilot bearing or bushing this technique is consuming the life of this small component. It’s normal use is only when the clutch pedal is pushed down during shifts or at a stop light for example.

2. Holding the clutch released and having the disc free spinning I can easily see the disc casually rubbing against flywheel or pressure plate casting. This casual contact will create completely unnecessary heat on the facing(s) and cast surfaces creating unnecessary facing and casting wear.

Gary

[Magnet18]

Originally Posted by GCinSC2

I’m in the clutch business, my 39th year.

I don’t know what the toad is that this refers to but I’m saying highly NOT RECOMMENDED.

1. Any system that has a pilot bearing or bushing this technique is consuming the life of this small component. It’s normal use is only when the clutch pedal is pushed down during shifts or at a stop light for example.

2. Holding the clutch released and having the disc free spinning I can easily see the disc casually rubbing against flywheel or pressure plate casting. This casual contact will create completely unnecessary heat on the facing(s) and cast surfaces creating unnecessary facing and casting wear.

Gary

I can see your point, thanks for the info



I saw a simple idea recommended somewhere else, just leave the driveshaft off and simply run around front wheel drive unless I need 4 wheel

[martin300662]

Originally Posted by Magnet18

So what hardware do you use to keep the clutch depressed? I tried searching and didn't find anything. Homebuilt, or are there kits out there?

Totally home built, and literally no more than a length of wood from the drivers seat frame and two U-clamps.

In my case it was lesser of two evils (or rather 4 options). It is a 50 year old collector car so virtually no electronics to worry about, but that also means the oil in the transmission only circulates when the transmission is spinning - doing nothing (towing in neutral) was a bearing life-expectancy of 50-100 miles. Option two was to drop the drive-shaft (which also drops the transmission oil!). Option three was a trailer (and in European campsites there is no space to leave a trailer and a toad). Option four was leave it in gear/dip the clutch (and expect a reduced life-expectancy from riding the clutch).

[Mike1997]

Remco has after market parts that can be added to vehicles making them towable on all 4 tires....but not all vehicles qualify!! The Ford Sport Trac is a good example.....everyone wanted to pull those around but once Ford stopped supplying parts, it ended.

Good luck....I just stick with Jeeps and pass everyone else on the road

[martin300662]

Originally Posted by bkahler

Martin,

At one time I thought you were looking into a light aluminum trailer. Did plans change?

Yep.

I managed to source an A-Frame with an inertia brake for $120 (basically as the vehicle slows the vehicle being towed compresses a lever, that pulls a cable setup to depress the brake pedal).

The issue is on my Vitesse the lay shaft turns when the prop turns, but is only lubed when the gears are rotating (literally splashing the lay shaft bearing). So although it is 'stick' and can happily be flat towed, the lay shaft bearing will be destroyed quite quickly if the gears aren't rotating.

At the moment the attachment of the A-frame to the front chassis is not clean. With mounting brackets going under the front valance, lowering ground clearance. The brackets are in a local shop, and a new sub-frame is being made that attaches at the front over-riders (which bolt to the chassis). However they have to cut-up the original over-riders for that to work so I am trying to source some replacements before the cut into them...just in case it doesn't work out!

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by martin300662

Yep.

I managed to source an A-Frame with an inertia brake for $120 (basically as the vehicle slows the vehicle being towed compresses a lever, that pulls a cable setup to depress the brake pedal).

The issue is on my Vitesse the lay shaft turns when the prop turns, but is only lubed when the gears are rotating (literally splashing the lay shaft bearing). So although it is 'stick' and can happily be flat towed, the lay shaft bearing will be destroyed quite quickly if the gears aren't rotating.

I wonder if you could add some sort of recirc pump that routes between the drain plug and the fill plug on the side. If setup probably you might be able to create a splash condition with the oil. Of course if the bearings need to turn that might not be a solution.

At the moment the attachment of the A-frame to the front chassis is not clean. With mounting brackets going under the front valance, lowering ground clearance. The brackets are in a local shop, and a new sub-frame is being made that attaches at the front over-riders (which bolt to the chassis). However they have to cut-up the original over-riders for that to work so I am trying to source some replacements before the cut into them...just in case it doesn't work out!

Would these over riders be what you're looking for?

[martin300662]

Originally Posted by bkahler

Would these over riders be what you're looking for?

Yes Brad....and only 20miles from me!

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by martin300662

Yes Brad....and only 20miles from me!

Now you just have to win the auction