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Old 12-06-2010, 12:11 PM   #781
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1963 22' Safari
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63 safari water tank

Hello,
I'm interested in selling my original 63 safari fresh water tank. I have someone who is interested, but I really do not knwo what price to ask for. What do you all think is fair?
Thank you
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Old 12-06-2010, 08:40 PM   #782
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Hard to say. Some things to consider. From my original search for a tank, I found that during the same year they made them out of steel and aluminum. While I entered into the concept with the understanding aluminum was far superior to galvanized steel, I later learned that the iron etc in the water ate the bottoms of those out pretty bad, whereas the steel although rusty can at least be recoated and or easily welded patched. I'd see what a plastic replacement on ebay goes for and go a little below that since any stock tank is going to need some cleaning, or reconditioning of some kind. Hope that helps!
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Old 12-18-2010, 10:09 PM   #783
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Well 3 weeks of horrible weather, progress has stopped, definately through Christmas. Good news though, a new travel vehicle is now in our driveway. My 03 silverado was just starting to come unglued, so its been replaced by a 2011 silverado z71 crew cab, which not only has a few nice features I'm not used to, but has tons of rear seat space for both kids. I'm excited to have it, not so excited about the payments, but so it goes.
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Old 12-18-2010, 10:49 PM   #784
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Congrats Scott!

Thats a nice looking truck. Im sure you will learn to love those new features!

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Old 12-19-2010, 09:14 AM   #785
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Great looking Chevy. The crew cabs make taking kids along much easier!
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Old 12-19-2010, 01:19 PM   #786
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That is a beauty Scott. May you have many happy miles together.

Happy Holidays!

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Old 12-19-2010, 04:49 PM   #787
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Other new tow vehicle

got one other new tow vehicle today. 4x4, two package, optional fog light... Was 50% off, so couldn't resist.
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Old 12-31-2010, 11:23 PM   #788
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Loving the new truck!! Also been cleaning in the garage and am ready to start working on the dinette and curbside goucho.

Any 63 owners able to share some pictures with me of the slides, wall mount for the slide frame, and the drawer slide framework on the side goucho? Mine is pretty hacked up and not so original looking.

Dinette is going first, mostly regluing, replacing the factory staples with pocket hole screws. but its going to wait a few days, still no heat in the garage and its 9 degrees out today.

I also need to figure out the kitchen sink cabinet structure for the drawer tracks since that whole cabinet was destroyed before I took ownership. All I have is a good cabinet face frame and the drawers and a pile of slides.
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Old 01-01-2011, 06:22 AM   #789
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Any 63 owners able to share some pictures with me of the slides, wall mount for the slide frame
Scott,

It is not a side gaucho, but in this blog post are some pics of the side frame I rebuilt for our '63 Globetrotter.
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Old 01-08-2011, 07:42 PM   #790
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I could have rebuilt these parts from scratch much faster, but decided to honor the original construction as much as possible and repair for age and the fact this stuff sat outside for awhile before I got it, and had been exposed to lots of water inside the trailer over the years.

This is the first of the front two couches that make up the dining area. Most of the frame was there, but the staples and finish nails had long since failed to hold the frame together well.

I removed all the nails and staples, sanded each piece, and carefully glued and screwed the frame back together with stainless finish head screws. The frame is finally strong again, even without being screwed to the trailer wall and floor.

After that I started to remove the oak vinear, which due to the moisure over the years had checked, warped and delaminated. After removing all the oak layer, I sanded filled and revineared with new red oak. After the passes with the trim router to remove the extra, this is what remains. Next some final sanding and finishing, plus the drawer fronts and the first of the furniture can start going back in (wow I can't wait to get the garage space back).

Next is the other side, the tank cover, and the dining table and leg.
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Old 01-08-2011, 07:44 PM   #791
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byamcaravanner View Post
Scott,

It is not a side gaucho, but in this blog post are some pics of the side frame I rebuilt for our '63 Globetrotter.
Thanks! I think mine is fairly simliar, just that those wedges have worn through the cabinet frame over the years. Thanks for the info!
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Old 01-09-2011, 09:31 AM   #792
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I could have rebuilt these parts from scratch much faster, but decided to honor the original construction as much as possible and repair for age and the fact this stuff sat outside for awhile before I got it, and had been exposed to lots of water inside the trailer over the years.

This is the first of the front two couches that make up the dining area. Most of the frame was there, but the staples and finish nails had long since failed to hold the frame together well.

I removed all the nails and staples, sanded each piece, and carefully glued and screwed the frame back together with stainless finish head screws. The frame is finally strong again, even without being screwed to the trailer wall and floor.

After that I started to remove the oak vinear, which due to the moisure over the years had checked, warped and delaminated. After removing all the oak layer, I sanded filled and revineared with new red oak. After the passes with the trim router to remove the extra, this is what remains. Next some final sanding and finishing, plus the drawer fronts and the first of the furniture can start going back in (wow I can't wait to get the garage space back).

Next is the other side, the tank cover, and the dining table and leg.
Looks great Scott! Keep up the good work!
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Old 01-09-2011, 09:47 AM   #793
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Great work Scott! Looks cold out there... still snow on the ground?
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Old 01-09-2011, 11:18 AM   #794
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Roads are bare now, but we've had at least 5-6 inches of snow on the lawns since the second week of November. Very odd for around here. Usually snow when we get it is gone in 48 hours. Has slowed my outside projects to a snail's pace, but last weekend the garage finally got a heater so I can start to work inside a little. Yesterday at the time I snapped that picture it was 27 outside.
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Old 01-09-2011, 05:54 PM   #795
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So you professional woodworkers out there. I'm about to replace the 1/4" plywood on the roof lockers. On the originals they mitered the plywood for the outside edge so you couldn't see the ply. Any tricks on getting a true 45 on long strips like this without destroying the edge of the oak or having wavers in the cut?
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Old 01-10-2011, 03:39 AM   #796
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Screw or clamp a sacrificial fence onto the tablesaw fence. Set the blade to a 45 degree angle. Most tablesaw blades angle toward the fence, so you can set the fence so the blade will completely penetrate into the fence before it get as high as the thickness of the plywood-1/4" in this case. If you set it very carefully you can get it so that the blade will just barely cut a complete 45 angle on the edge of a board, but it will not have any way to over-cut it and ruin your piece no matter how hard you try. with this setup you cut your pieces to the finished size first, then miter the edges after. You do have to be careful of the sharp, mitered edges until you get the edgeing glued onto them because they will break off very easily.
Glueing the edge pieces on will be harder than cutting the miters. I would just use little strips of masking tape about 2" long each, placed every 2" to hold the pieces together while the glue sets. That could be a lot of little pieces of tape.
Typically these days we use an edgebanding machine to apply hot-melt adhesive to the edge on a piece of ply or other substrate, and then to apply a wood or plastic tape and trim it to size. I wouldn't trust the hot-melt adhesives to hold up to summer interior temps in a travel trailer though. Yellow glue is the way to go, weather you miter pieces on or just glue 1/8" by 1/4" solid edging on instead.

Let me know if I was not clear about the saw setup. I hate to see good plywood go to waste.

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Old 01-10-2011, 09:46 AM   #797
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So you professional woodworkers out there. I'm about to replace the 1/4" plywood on the roof lockers. On the originals they mitered the plywood for the outside edge so you couldn't see the ply. Any tricks on getting a true 45 on long strips like this without destroying the edge of the oak or having wavers in the cut?
Build the cabinets and apply finish veneer to them afterwards.
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Old 01-15-2011, 10:59 PM   #798
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No pictures today, but a productive one. I finished replacing the plywood on the second half of the front twin beds today. I took Steve's advice and I've ordered some veneer to take care of the panels that need a clean corner (over head roof lockers, fresh water tank cover etc.) and will apply those as soon as the materials get here.

I placed my order with VTS for new counter edging (same as original) and two rolls of the coved welt material where the cabinets meet the wall.

The original table leg had been broken at the table frame. I trimmed out with the band saw some of the leg, and keyed in a new piece of solid oak, glued and pin nailed this replacement and sanded it smooth. After stain it should look great, and the leg is back on the original table.

I really wanted to keep the table as original as possible, since I have pictures of people sitting around that table on the caravan, and just think of all the conversations that took place at that table. The good news was that the bathroom vanity top, kitchen counter, and table were covered with contact paper several layers over the years, so after removing all the glue, the table top is going to stay original, including its trim. Normal light scratches (not through the color) on the laminate, but no stains or burns so it stays! Bad news is that it finally occured to me when they gutted it in California they cut the area of the kitchen counter top off that goes behind the stove (WHY!??!?! &^%&^%) so I'm going to have to find some vintage laminate or something really really close) since its only a few feet away from the table and redo the kitchen top from scratch. Dang it.

So if materials arrive on time as I hope they will, next weekend I may be ready to reinstall the front twin beds, water tank, and table.

Now I have to decide on stains. We want to avoid that golden oak 80's finish on the red oak, but don't wan't anything walnut brown. We've tried the "red oak" minwax finish on some scrap and its just too dark. I may try mixing in some cherry to see if we can lighten it up.

Anyone got any photos of red oak cabinets they've stained that we could compare with?
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Old 01-15-2011, 11:25 PM   #799
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contact paper

Scott, just a thought, you could use vintage contact paper on the counter-top. It was in style in 1963.
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Old 01-16-2011, 12:20 AM   #800
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What does the oak look like finished clear with no stain? I have some antique oak pieces that my father redid with clear finishes and they look great.
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