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Old 10-26-2010, 06:52 PM   #761
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Heh!

Well, I suppose I should say that although there were plenty of cracks in the VAT all over the place, they weren't any worse at the joints than anywhere else. I didn't see any cracking pattern that was consistent with a transfer of forces from the substrate to the surface at the plywood edges.

Glad things are working out for you so far, Norm. Hopefully it's a sound system.

If not, well, at least we've already climbed the learning curve and trading it all out will go much faster next time!

-Marcus
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Old 10-26-2010, 08:43 PM   #762
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hmmm let my second guessing begin. I only used 5/8 plywood, because that was original, with the thought I was going to layer over the top of that to hide my seams. I'm not concerned about panels not fitting correctly, since some fine sanding on those pieces still good enough to reuse should make everything fit correctly (keep in mind this interior was left out in the elements for over year so a lot of warped, delaminated wood is stacked in my garage).

I do acknowledge it is probably overkill, but since it won't really hurt reinstall, and most certainly will strengthen the floor I'm going to push forward. The local lumber yard has a screw/nail down panel system, 5/32 that is designed to go under sheet vinyl in kitchens. It is apparently very stable in moisture and is premarked for its screw/nail locations much in the same fashion tile underlayment is (with dots ready for screws). I'm going to do research before I proceed.

I figure it can't hurt, it might be more than needed but it won't detract, and there will never be an easier time to install it than right now when the interior is completely out.

One thing still, screw only, or as Mike Holmes would say, glue it and screw it....

After that top layer I will be filling the holes and smoothing edges with filler as Marcus and others have done, which is a great idea.
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Old 10-27-2010, 04:32 AM   #763
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goransons View Post
One thing still, screw only, or as Mike Holmes would say, glue it and screw it....
Scott,

DEFINATELY screw and glue. Use something like PL 400. Home depot sells square drive green screws designed for use with cement board underlayment (wet environment)... use those and make sure you get the heads set flush or better.

Good luck!
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Old 10-31-2010, 06:00 PM   #764
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slow weekend

finished the last few elevator bolts and started my underlayment. I looked at all the options and went with a 5/32 exterior grade plywood, glued and screwed to the subfloor, staggering all my joints. This covers all my split sheets etc. I went ahead with the coated hardibacker screwes that self countersink then coming back with filler to cover the heads. Due to weather I only got one sheet down this weekend, but now that I have everything all set up it should go smooth weather permitting.

While waiting for the rainy weather to go away, I did get the bathtub sanded, all the pock marks from the tub being used as a trash can by the PO during gutting, and repaired the saw marks from them not taking the time to unscrew the drain, but rather just using a sawzall to remove it. After about 5 hours of work I think it looks pretty good, and feels smooth as a baby's butt.

Per Frank's suggestion, the tub will get a coat of epoxy builder primer followed by an acrylic urethane top coat as soon as I get a warm day.
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Old 11-04-2010, 07:37 PM   #765
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Shoulda, Coulda, didn't, now gotta

Last year when I replaced the refrigerator vent top I thought about drilling out the rivets for the vent collar and redoing the seal there, but it looked ok, and hadn't shown signs of leaks, in fact it was one of the only dry areas in the trailer. The rain this week brought the slow leak to my attention and ended up removing that vent top, then removing the colar, removing the old dry material, a couple bad rivets etc.

Couple things that amazed me, 1 airstream put the seam in the collar up instead of down, making one more area for water to work its way in. 2, it didn't use near enough rivets to hold it together. Most of the rivets were pulled through and the sealer was quite thick.

Back together and cleaned up ready for another 60 years. As I put the last tool away, up came the UPS truck with my tub paint. Now I'm itchin for the weekend!!
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Old 11-05-2010, 04:30 AM   #766
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Nice to see a fire has been re lit.
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Old 11-05-2010, 07:31 PM   #767
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Epoxy Primer/sealer

Epoxy Primer on, happy overall, will let cure over night and wet sand tomorrow, weather permitting get the Urethane bumper coat on tomorrow afternoon.
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Old 11-06-2010, 05:25 AM   #768
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Scott, there is a filler called mirror glaze or micro glaze. It is one part and in a small tube. It can be used on the really fine cracks you still have, but are pretending you do not see You can buy it at an Auto Body supply of most auto parts stores have it. Pep Boys does. It goes on at this stage and allows you to do the real fine lines.
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Old 11-06-2010, 08:43 AM   #769
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When the sun comes up I'll check it out, Wet it looked real good, but I know once that paint flashes it settles into those fine areas. I did pick some up just in case when I ordered my paint. No pep boys around here, just Autozone and was Schuck's now, O'Reilly's, neither stocked it. Thanks for the info!!
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Old 11-06-2010, 01:48 PM   #770
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They stock the stuff at Autozone. It will fill all those fine cracks, or at least the major ones you notice easy.
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Old 11-06-2010, 09:24 PM   #771
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Stuff I got is similiar, but glad to know I can get the stuff locally, or at least something comperable. Did some wet sanding this evening when I got home, had a couple small pinholes near the repairs at the drain, so I fixed those. Tomorrow I will finish sanding those areas, clean and spray the final coat, as long as the wind is non-existant. Going to get some more floor glued down too.
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Old 11-07-2010, 09:13 PM   #772
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Hey Frank, I have to thank you. Having refinished our 69 bathroom with Sherwin Williams Tile Doc, the finish I got with the Acrylic Urethane is far superior. Not enough light to get a good photo tonight, but after shooting several coats this morning on the tub and letting it dry all day, I've got a very shiny, smooth consistant finish that I know will hold up well. The 1 day of fiberglass reinforcement from below, and 2 days of sanding, filling, sanding etc from above plus 2 more partial days of prep and prime, prep and paint have really paid off. I can't wait to get it finally back in place after 2 years.
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Old 11-08-2010, 05:42 AM   #773
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Scott, Thank you, but the real credit goes to Colin Hyde. He has expressed the virtues of bumper paints for many years. Now after three hard camping seasons, I will say we do have some chips, but over all it looks awesome still to this day. Young kids are very hard on things and a swinging belt buckle will chip the paint.
The real key to doing this type of work is the prep. An old painter once told me that the finished job would only look as good as the prep of the surface. It was sage advice.
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Old 11-10-2010, 07:49 PM   #774
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Tub in (minus trim) which will happen down the road.

Divider wall in just as a double check things were lining up correctly. That wall panel will serve as a template only.

Just need to fill and sand the screw holes and seams and I'm ready for tile this weekend.
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Old 11-11-2010, 05:10 AM   #775
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nice job Scott. That looks very crisp.
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Old 11-13-2010, 10:03 PM   #776
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got just over half the tile down today, have to finish under the vanity and the dinette area, then trim out around the wheel wells. It's really starting to feel like a trailer and not a construction zone.
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Old 11-13-2010, 11:54 PM   #777
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Looking good, before you know it you'll be camping.
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Old 11-14-2010, 01:58 PM   #778
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That is looking sweet Scott. Progress feels good, doesn't it.

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Old 11-14-2010, 06:04 PM   #779
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finished floor

I still need to caulk the perimeter once the glue cures and trim out the wheel wells etc, but really happy how it turned out. finally can reinstall the fresh water tank and start prepping the goucho and dinette for reinstall. Can't wait go get my garage back!
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Old 11-24-2010, 02:37 PM   #780
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Yuck, progress haulted.. Snow the last 3 days and today -18 outside.
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