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Old 05-21-2010, 07:45 PM   #741
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1963 22' Safari
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Road trip!!

Jed's 63 interior was on the way out for a guest room mod, and he was awesome and let me pull parts for templates, some good enough to sand, refinish and install. Found a lot of parts I was missing, some light hardware, those plastic tracks for the roof lockers, some plumbing fixture parts, drawer slides, and bathroom hardware.

Thanks Jed!! Can't wait to start reinstalling/recreating the interior.

Also on the way back ran across this in the Cle Elum Safeway parking lot
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Old 06-06-2010, 07:01 PM   #742
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punch list

The 69 is coming out of storage next week to get ready for an upcoming camping trip, so hitting the punch list of things I wanted to finish before 8671 goes into storage for about a month. While its away I'll be working on getting the tub ready for reinstall, and getting the flooring ready to install. Wally's working with one of his buddies to cut down the 12x12's to 9x9's but it will take awhile to cut enough to lay the floor.

Anyway, never posted a photo of the A/C on the roof. Not to worry, it was installed in a vent location, and no original fabric was disturbed in the process, so down the road the vent, which is currently boxed up can easily be reinstalled, breaker removed and nobody will ever know it was there, but for now the reality of 100+ degree summers with 2 young kids, the A/C will get plenty of use. Still need to cut a shim to make up for the curve of the ceiling, otherwise the inside cover wants to distort. A,so considering painting the exterior cover silver to help it blend in a bit more.

We received our restored license plate this week, and its reinstalled, that with the final hook ups of the front wires at the hitch we now have all our lights and brakes working, so we're legal!

Steve made me up a great adaptor plate for the stock black tank, which installed great today. Still have to make the gray line connection below and reinstall the belly pan there, but couldn't do that today due to the non-stop rain, hopefully can finish that up after work tomorrow.
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Old 06-06-2010, 07:27 PM   #743
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Here's the plate up close
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Old 06-15-2010, 11:18 PM   #744
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Free parts to a good home

Interior parts out of another 63 airstream

Fiberglass tub (has been modified slightly on the lip by the sink)
Dixie stove (for parts only, burners are shot)

Rest is history I'm affraid. Not shipable sorry. PM if interested. Also in classifieds
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Old 06-16-2010, 03:28 AM   #745
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Here's the plate up close
The plate looks good. Did you do the sign yourself or have it done? My 71 plate on my Tradewind has reflective paint. Do you know where I can get some or someone who can do it?

Also any recommendations on something to bleach out stains on ABS in the bathroom? I remember seeing a formula on the forums but can't remember where.
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Old 06-16-2010, 09:36 PM   #746
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Thanks! Plate was restored by oldlicensefarm.com a guy over here in Western Washington. Did a great job with Automotive Base/Clear paint that should hold up great. I'd contact him and see if he can do those. The airstream sign came off ebay, had to repair a part that had been cut out, did that myself, but nothing fancy.

Here's the link on the bathroom plastic restoration.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f39/...tic-50799.html

Hope that helps!
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Old 06-16-2010, 09:51 PM   #747
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New Addition

Thanks to Jed, and some major help from Wally we now have in the storage lot a 63 sovereign, a very, very rough 30'er. Major interior mold, rusty frame, rotten floor, mold, and just about every exterior panel is damaged. Some interesting stuff on it I'll photo and post. It will donate some parts to 8671, and probably serve as a storage unit for awhile. First job is to spray some bleach solution to kill the wet side of the state mold. Few parts in the posts above are up for grabs.
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Old 06-30-2010, 09:20 PM   #748
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So Happy together

Stove is gone, but anyone need a 63 tub?

While I refinish the tub, and sort out the flooring, I promised my wife some time with a kitchen window and driveway (the trailer completely blocks the kitchen window, and has for several years). The secure storage area we use had a spot next door to our 69's spot open, so we snatched that up. Does make working in and around the garage much easier, and only about 10 minutes away so I can pull either home for work.

You'll notice in the pic too that 8671 was put together crooked (check out the front roof line), the center line for the front is off. No sign of damage, even with the ceiling out, bow in good shape, all factory markings line up, guessing someone mismeasured.
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Old 06-30-2010, 10:36 PM   #749
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I can't really see the mismatch on the '63 in the photo. In any case that is far less significant than I have seen on earlier Airstreams. I have seen a '58 18' Pacer that the center panel is clearly a couple of inches "off center" and some of the corner endcap seams touch the front and rear windows at heights that differ by at least a couple of inches side to side. On that trailer the differences were just as significant front and rear and also applied to the inner endcaps as well as the outer endcaps. I guess it just proves that they are all hand made.
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Old 06-30-2010, 10:51 PM   #750
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Yep, part of the charm Joe!! Looking at the photo, the left side is a much bigger radius than the right side...
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Old 07-01-2010, 04:40 AM   #751
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I had a 1961 Tradewind here having a new belly pan fabricated. I noticed that the shell overlapped the the plywood flooring by a 1/4" on the curb side but was 1/4" above the floor on the street side. The entire shell was twisted slightly off center toward the curb side. The line of rivets where the belly and shell meet was also unique because the spacing between them varied. The spacing varied from 1 1/4" to 1 7/8". They truly were hand made back then. I believe that today a computer drives the drill and the hand made touches have been significantly removed. I bet the cabinet makers don't still sign their pieces either.
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Old 10-25-2010, 10:00 PM   #752
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So finally getting back to work on the never-ending project. November 26th marks 2 years from the voyage home, yet still working with a shell, granted with a few less leaks, a lot more wood, insulation, wire, and a much more empty pocket book. My goal in the next couple weeks is a finished floor. My plan, so that the new tiles don't crack at every seam is to go over the 5/8" plywood floor with a 1/4 plywood, overlapping every seam by 2 feet. My plan is to staple this down, and 5/8" stapes. It has been suggested that I also glue the plywood down, the question is what have other people done and what glue would be best? Should I use something like panel adhesive (construction type adhesive) or the same glue used on the armstrong floor tiles?
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Old 10-25-2010, 10:51 PM   #753
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I think 1/4 inch is overkill. Have you looked at the luan mahogany sheets? Cheap, flat, light and easy to work with. I use structural adhesive for my overlays...seem to work well.
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Old 10-25-2010, 11:29 PM   #754
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I just put down Luan, it actually had a brand/trade name like "3-Ply Luan Underlayment" or something like that. After talking with my "Flooring Guy", we decided not to glue it, I did screw it down 6"-8" on center "in the field" and 2"-3" on center on the edges. It looks and feels great. We went over all the heads w/ a dab of leveling compound. We're just waiting for a relatively dry/mild day to install the Sheet Marmoleum. We did a fair amount of "prep work" to get a flat surface before we layed the Luan. One other factor: the luan was about 1/2 the price of a good Exterior 1/4" ACX, and it claims to be "water resistant" (just short of saying they used exterior glue - which I would have preferred).

This of course is "what I'm doing", Not "what I did" so I can't give you any knowledge based on actual mileage, but it does seem like it's going to be a good solution.

Thanks for posting your project.
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Old 10-26-2010, 06:16 AM   #755
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I think 1/4 inch is overkill. Have you looked at the luan mahogany sheets? Cheap, flat, light and easy to work with. I use structural adhesive for my overlays...seem to work well.
Not speaking from experience, but I agree. 1/4" will likely give panel fit problems if you are reusing any of the old panels (especially the floor to ceiling ones). Of course, they can be trimmed, and if you are replacing the panels, they can also be better cut to fit.

I don't intend to use luan in my trailer, but that seems to be a popular choice that should result in less fit problems.
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Old 10-26-2010, 08:05 AM   #756
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I'll look at the Luan, but would think the thinner material would certainly need to be glued for stability. 1/4 inch I would think screwed down would be more stable, and would certainly be able to be removed/repaired without the glue. That's the battle I keep going back and forth. Panel height isn't much of an issue, since every single full height panel in it was rotted off on the bottom couple inches, and the bottom 4 feet of all interior sheet metal was replaced due to hack job rewires, ripped out cabinets, fatigued metal and crunched bottom edges from the missing wood/body mounts. I'll stop at the lumber yard and see what they have in luan, especially anything that is water resistant.
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Old 10-26-2010, 03:34 PM   #757
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Is it necessary?
I'm just going to put a skim-coat of bondo over the plywood and sand it flat to fill the little knot holes and seams. Seems to me another layer is just more work, weight and expense. Layered plywood sheets also promote water retention and rot if they ever do get wet.
If you have your heart set on it, look for 1/4" medex, exterior medite (MDF) It's the stuff billboards are made of.

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Old 10-26-2010, 03:56 PM   #758
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What Rich the Viking said. I'm going with bondo on mine.
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Old 10-26-2010, 05:54 PM   #759
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My original VAT tiles showed no signs of cracking at the joints after 46 years.

When I put in the new ply, I filled the joints and e-bolt holes with wood filler, then skim-coated all of it with ardex, and laid the new VCT over it. Two seasons and no signs of cracks coming through yet...
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Old 10-26-2010, 06:13 PM   #760
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Quote:
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My original VAT tiles showed no signs of cracking at the joints after 46 years.

When I put in the new ply, I filled the joints and e-bolt holes with wood filler, then skim-coated all of it with ardex, and laid the new VCT over it. Two seasons and no signs of cracks coming through yet...
My original VAT tiles on the other hand were an absolute wreck with cracks all over the place.

For my new VCT, we followed Marcus' procedure with wood filler and a skim-coat of ardex over the plywood. I've only been on three trips so far, but no signs of cracks yet.
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