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Old 02-05-2010, 09:19 PM   #681
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Thanks, I read one thread that talked about doing it but haven't seen anyone who has yet (but am interested to know how). I found this awhile back, but worry it would leave poor qality edge since no doubt cuts with this would be up against a wall etc.

vct tile cutter: ROBERTS

If there were a special blade to cut with a table saw or tile saw a fence could create a pretty square tile too, and maybe a clean edge?
Here's another thread that mentions it, and Shari, TomW, and others discuss ways you might go about doing it.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f461...ile-46017.html

But I still recall seeing a thread where someone actually DID it, talked about how they did it, and showed results, as you requested.

For what it's worth, from my personal experience with VCT, it cuts like butter when warmed up. This worked fine for me as the vast majority of my cuts were on outside corners that are hidden by furniture. BUT, it also gets a bit "gooey" and wouldn't necessarily cut clean and straight when warm. Clean straight cuts are essential for the "field tile" that will make up the highly visible middle of your pattern.

My worries with a chop-saw/miter saw, or a table saw, is that the VCT might crumble or chip. You might be able to warm them up SLIGHTLY, and then cut them using a jig on a chop-saw or the fence of your table saw. This would be sort of a hybrid solution that might get them JUST warm enough to cut without chipping/crumbling, but not so gooey that the edges curl or warp away from true as you cut. Did that make any sense at all?

One suggestion would be to buy a handful of the really cheap VCT they sell individually (rather than in minimum order quantity of a full box) at the big box stores, and experiment with various cutting methods. Then, when you're comfortable with a particular method, buy your final boxes of product and cut away.

And I'll keep looking for the thread I think I've seen before.
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Old 02-05-2010, 09:23 PM   #682
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Table Saw

Scott -

I happen to have a Freud non-ferrous metal blade (72 teeth, 10") in the table saw right now and a leftover piece of vinyl tile.

Just made a 12" cut -- cut was very nice, but there is no chamfer left like the other 3 sides. There was a fair amount of fuzz on the bottom where the paper is, but cleaned up well.

Looks like you can make good, square cuts, but you probably have to cut all 4 sides or the shadows between tiles won't look right.

John
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Old 02-05-2010, 09:23 PM   #683
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9x9 tiles

Scott get me a tile and I'll see how well the router mill cuts it.
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Old 02-05-2010, 09:29 PM   #684
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Scott -

I happen to have a Freud non-ferrous metal blade (72 teeth, 10") in the table saw right now and a leftover piece of vinyl tile.

Just made a 12" cut -- cut was very nice, but there is no chamfer left like the other 3 sides. There was a fair amount of fuzz on the bottom where the paper is, but cleaned up well.

Looks like you can make good, square cuts, but you probably have to cut all 4 sides or the shadows between tiles won't look right.

John
This is good information, John, especially if VCT cuts the same way. The VCT shouldn't have any chamfer on any sides, they are all completely square, so any square cut should work.

Another nice thing about VCT is that the color runs all the way through, so even if the edges show a tiny bit of "reveal" it should blend in pretty well.

Scott- I'd say it's definitely worth buying some cheap individual VCT at your nearest box store and performing some tests.
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Old 02-05-2010, 10:02 PM   #685
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Thanks John, are you cutting peel-n-stick or the 1/8 commercial style stuff? I was worried the blade might melt the tile, but maybe it produces just enough heat to help smooth the cut? Wally CNC is another great idea, although I'd need several hundred, would he be up for that?
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Old 02-05-2010, 10:17 PM   #686
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Peel n Stick

Scott -

It was the peel-n-stick, something like Crystal, but spelled wrong. It is some older stuff from Lowe's.

It was in the basement of an older house in Connecticut, so it was lucky if it's 60 degrees down there.

Remember that there's quite a number of teeth on that blade. I'll bet that helps keep the temp down. And, as the old saying goes, "it's all about speed and feed".

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Old 02-06-2010, 09:14 AM   #687
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Great work Scott!
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Old 02-06-2010, 07:41 PM   #688
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Scott,

See if you can find an OLD paper cutter. Thatís what Iíve used to cut Armstrong VCT tiles. The blade must be very sharp but it will leave a nice clean-cut edge. Honestly I havenít cut any down to 9 inches before, but have often thought it would work fine.

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Old 02-06-2010, 07:52 PM   #689
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I have a heavy duty paper cutter we purchased for installing a tin ceiling, I'll have to see how it would work. Did you heat your tiles before cutting?
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Old 02-07-2010, 11:23 PM   #690
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I have a heavy duty paper cutter we purchased for installing a tin ceiling, I'll have to see how it would work. Did you heat your tiles before cutting?
SCott,

We didn't heat the tile but my husband removed the blade and sharpened it really well. My cutter is from the 60's: very heavy with a huge blade and no guard.

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Old 02-08-2010, 12:38 AM   #691
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If you are cutting a lot of pieces the same size you might try stacking them and clamping them together with a sacrificial board on the top and bottom, and then cutting through the stack. A medium number of saw teeth is better than too many. More teeth equals more heat. I would use a 40 tooth skilsaw blade. Paper cutters tend to push the material away as you cut unless they are very high quality.

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Old 02-08-2010, 12:57 AM   #692
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Great job, looks real good. I have been reading your thread from the start tonight and we found a piece in a closet that we had no idea where it went, just checked and its an aluminun guard for the back window. Thanks another mystery solved. Susan
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Old 02-09-2010, 05:06 PM   #693
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touch ups

prepped a few areas today that need some touch up. Will hopefully spray those areas after work tomorrow.

I also have finished stripping and repainting the front sconces and bathroom light so those can be reinstalled and I can finally work in the evenings.
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Old 02-10-2010, 07:15 AM   #694
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Those look good Scott, I've been debating whether to re-use those front fixtures, or do something else. When you stripped them, what did they look like? I don't suppose they're aluminum are they?
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Old 02-10-2010, 08:01 AM   #695
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The center (round) light fixture on the ceiling is aluminum and looks awesome stripped, but the sconces are stamped steel, and so are the metal box lights from the bathroom, kitchen, and goucho areas. When I stripped them, they looked horrible, even after stripper, sanding and wire wheel I still had a lot of work to do to get them clean (all those little holes). They had been rolled with latex so many times those little holes were pretty much caked closed with paint.
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Old 02-10-2010, 08:33 AM   #696
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Yes indeed, I love the aluminum ceiling fixtures, they look fantastic stripped and polished!




I suspected the front sconces weren't aluminum, since mine are showing many spots of rust-- that is, wherever the rust can make it through the 7 or 8 layers of caked-on latex house paint. Like yours, some of the holes are completely clogged.

I'm debating stripping them and then painting them back to an aluminum color, or simply replacing them with something else. I'd keep the look modern, but go with something a little less likely to corrode over time.
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Old 03-06-2010, 08:07 PM   #697
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No photos to share today but finally mother nature cooperated with my work schedule and I was able to make the final coat on the zolatone, it looks great. Tomorrow I'll finish cleaning up the tape etc and then its on to flooring
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Old 03-09-2010, 07:28 PM   #698
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Some progress

I'll confess I've started reinstalling some items, not as airstream work, but simply trying to get my work bench accessible.

I did get the front sconces, minus the difuser material installed a week or so ago, but once the zolatone finished drying in the back, the center light (courtesy of Aluminutz) has been installed, and so has the bathroom mirror and light. If we have another good weekend of weather the tub will get its recoat and final install, and so will the black tank. Things are moving along nicely.

Now that I have a work bench, during our nasty weather days I can start redoing window screens to get those reinstalled and out of the way as well.
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Old 03-10-2010, 07:16 PM   #699
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Did some more cleaning on the back, again finishing up some projects and bolting on parts.

Polished the rest of the rear panel, at least through the F, the rest of the polishing will come when the rest of the trailer is done, but cleaning and sealing as I go. Also can see the used license plate bracket that Wally found and had chromed for me (they only charged $15.00 to chrome it). License plate is off for restoration, but reflectors are back on. Some fine polishing (again I'm not going for super mirror shine, trailer is too pitted) but trying to unify the new and old metal and clean a lot of sap and other crud off the shell as I go.

Next on the back I need to cut a replacement bumper cover, and finish the paint on the frame and back bumper, and then going to paint the "We have also visted Iraq" back on between the rear reflectors. Also waiting for VTS to get those lenses for the tail lights back in stock to replace those.
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Old 03-11-2010, 05:43 PM   #700
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Before I start shopping for something close I thought I'd ask if anyone had a few of these laying around. Both in bad shape finish wise, and both were glued in place because screws had sheered off at some point.
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