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goransons · 01-26-2010, 05:48 PM

Had the afternoon off, and made some good progress on my punch list.

Quote:

Originally Posted by goransons

My punchlist now:

install then remove the fresh water tank, making sure all the mounting holes fit correctly for the fill.

repaint, then install the furnace, including outside original cover

install new black tank (predrill all holes, mock up trim make sure everything fits)

reinstall tub, make sure all holes line up (since this lower panel was replaced).

Finish installing window trim, and replacing any missing rivets

clean, clean, clean, then mask and away we go! If my week at work doesn't get to crazy, I may be ready by this weekend, weather permitting. Today was great, upper 40's DRY outside, but as I speak its snowing believe it or not, so who knows.

Cut and finished prepping the fill hole for the fresh water tank, and with a combo of heat from the torch, and ultimately some PB blaster I was able to get the part of the old tank drain pipe out. Now its ready to treat for reinstall after the floor goes in.

Furnace box is cleaned and primed, ready for paint (paint had failed due to a leak from the kitchen vent). Didn't cut the holes through the outter skin for the vent quite yet, but is clearly marked. I shimmed everything up for the finish floor, but want to run that under the furnace. This way I can keep that area as water tight as possible, then will just need to drill the 2 inch holes for the vent pipes and drill the mounting holes.

Installed the tub temporarily, hooked up the drain, drilled the mounting holes and cleco'd it and the black tank in place, now they're ready for removal for paint.

Als finished all the window trim except where I'm chasing the leaks still, I want another day or two to finish testing before I put them on.

I'm going to try an expirment in the next few days. One of our friends is a A/C guy and is going to drop off to me a used furnace blower unit. I'm going to do some tin-snip work and make a blower I can run in the luggage door and see if that will move enough air to create the right effect. If not no harm done, but if so will make leak dectection much easier, at least the biggest offenders.

I think we're going to have a dry spell with temps up into the 50's late this weekend early next week so I may take a day or two off and shoot zolatone while I can.

Bo&Susan · 01-26-2010, 06:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by goransons

The only picture I have that remotely shows where it goes was given to me by another forums member. If you look at the tank under the toilet, just to the right as you see it in the picture you can see a dark square where the tank makes the 90 back towards the cabinet. That's where the heat duct comes through. Cover is roughly the size of a postcard or so.

Thanks for checking! Looking forward to following your project.

Our bath tub is on the right side, and the cover was on the front of the tub it will fit a rough opening 4 inches by 10 inches. Susan

goransons · 01-26-2010, 06:19 PM

sounds like the corner tanks used something different. I definately appreciate the offer though. Bet the larger vent sure moved more air.

utee94 · 01-26-2010, 07:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by goransons

sounds like the corner tanks used something different. I definately appreciate the offer though. Bet the larger vent sure moved more air.

Yes, mine is the same size as Bo&Susan's. Sorry, wish I could have helped!

-Marcus

goransons · 01-26-2010, 08:24 PM

Marcus (or anyone for that matter) know how the cargo compartment door latch was supposed to work. I know this thing isn't original. The original bucked rivet catch on the door frame lines up perfectly with that slot cut in the side of the box. almost looks like a lock on the outside that worked like a slidebolt, because the slot isn't big enough for an arm to swing through it.

Currently the scap-bin special latch reaches around and grabs the inner skin, but as I prepare to shoot zolatone I don't want it scraping up the new paint.

Frank's Trailer Works · 01-27-2010, 03:06 AM

Scott This is the lock that is supposed to be in there. Installing it means drilling out the some rivets and peeling the door apart to get to the inside. I would recommended using this style though. The first one is not stainless and it will rust within a few years. The cam style can be purchased in stainless (VERY cheap on Ebay, sorry Steve@ VTS, you are still the man) and will not rust. I have purchased all new locks for every hatch with one key and need to change the very one we are talking about. The thing that is holding me up is the peeling apart of the door. It was very easy when did it on the bench and I could just buck the hinge back on but the inner skins are all in place. If you use the cam type you might need to make the slot slightly longer to compensate for the swing of the arm.

Overlander & Sea · 01-27-2010, 04:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by goransons

The only picture I have that remotely shows where it goes was given to me by another forums member. If you look at the tank under the toilet, just to the right as you see it in the picture you can see a dark square where the tank makes the 90 back towards the cabinet. That's where the heat duct comes through. Cover is roughly the size of a postcard or so.

Thanks for checking! Looking forward to following your project.

Scott,

Everything is really looking great. I'm just now reading your post. This picture looks my '63 Globetrotter. If it is, I just wanted you to know that mine does not have a heat duct there, The dark square is just from the carpet--it's dirt & black glue. The furnace in my Globetrooter does not have a fan. It is a Carlson wall furnace, there is no duct work at all in the trailer. I know my '61 Overlander has a duct that does run under the floor to the bathroom.

If the picture is not my '63 Globetrotter----never mind

.

goransons · 01-27-2010, 06:49 PM

Just went back and looked and yep that's your GT. Well the vent goes there on the safari. I may end up having a piece of sheet metal louvered to cover it eventually. I have the duct elbow that is supposed to go there, but when they broke the old tank out they tossed it with the skirt. The GT that my current tank came from didn't have a vent either.

Thanks for clearing up where the photo came from!

goransons · 01-29-2010, 05:55 PM

Sunday is forcasted as 53 degrees and dry!! All but a few rivets by the door are done off my list, and that should go pretty quickly tomorrow, then just cleaning and masking which will take some time. Sooo, if the weatherman pulls this off Sunday night I should have at least the primer and color coat of the zolatone on.

Keep your fingers crossed.

goransons · 01-30-2010, 06:45 PM

Well a busy day on 8671 today.

Finished some riveting that needed to get done around the door (bucked rivets), a few pop rivets along the floor that needed to get finished, and proceeded to remove all the window lifters and clean, clean and more cleaning. I was amazed at the amount of stuff (tools, hardware, parts, scraps etc) that built up inside that thing over the last year.

Took almost half the day to mask the interior. Tomorrow morning I need to install the luggage door lock since I need to remove a few interior rivets to do that, and a couple pop rivets up front.

Then one final wipe down and cleaning of the floor too and we should be good to go. Goal tomorrow besides as mentioned above is to get the epoxy primer on and the color coat of the zolatone.

3Ms75Argosy · 01-30-2010, 07:38 PM

Wow! Moving along Scott! Can't wait to see after tomorrow...
Marc

nmbosa · 01-30-2010, 08:59 PM

Very nice progress Scott. Especially for winter. Hope the weather works out tomorrow.
Norm

goransons · 01-31-2010, 04:01 PM

Weather has been cooperating so got the primer shot today. Did figure out one issue I think will resolve itself. I cleaned all the skins etc with a paint prep and the lettering on the new metal in the bathroom didn't come off, and I didn't really worry about it, but one of the solvents in the epoxy primer obviously worked well and it bled the lettering. Now that the epoxy has dried I hope that it won't bleed further since I did include the reducer with the hardener which is supposed to make a sealer out of the primer also. It is 54 degrees, blue skies and sunny, so I may put the suit back on here and try some base coat of the zolatone.

goransons · 01-31-2010, 06:06 PM

I decided the temps were holding and the epoxy was setting up nicely, so I'd go ahead and try some zolatone up front.

After about an hour adjusting the gun, and getting the pressure right (the nozzle had to be slightly increased because I figured out they sent me the wrong one). Managed to get one coat on the front end cap and tested the area where the letters bled, and it covered very well, no bleed through.

Tomorrow afternoon, as long as this weather continues I'll get the entire interior through the first coat, and expirement with the splatter coat on some test boards.

tallytwo1994 · 01-31-2010, 06:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by goransons

Weather has been cooperating so got the primer shot today. Did figure out one issue I think will resolve itself. I cleaned all the skins etc with a paint prep and the lettering on the new metal in the bathroom didn't come off, and I didn't really worry about it, but one of the solvents in the epoxy primer obviously worked well and it bled the lettering. Now that the epoxy has dried I hope that it won't bleed further since I did include the reducer with the hardener which is supposed to make a sealer out of the primer also. It is 54 degrees, blue skies and sunny, so I may put the suit back on here and try some base coat of the zolatone.

Wow. Here in North Florida it wasn't warm enough for me to spray paint some AC vents. Can't believe you had warmer temps than we did.

Carol

goransons · 02-01-2010, 06:13 PM

Color coat on and did some expirmenting with the splatter coat. Really happy how it is turning out, but very hard to photograph. Really makes the inside seem like a trailer now. Can't wait to get the rest of the splatter coat done and get all the paper and tape off everything and get the sunlight back in there.

goransons · 02-01-2010, 06:15 PM

4 more

Xbob2 · 02-01-2010, 06:18 PM

Very cool Scott! Hope to emulate you!
Bob

soldiermedic · 02-01-2010, 06:21 PM

Scott,

What color combo are you using? Any way to get a closeup of the texture?

Steve

goransons · 02-01-2010, 06:36 PM

Yeah I'll get a close up as soon as I can get some more light in there. I'm using the Camille white. Its a bright white with a tan and gray fleck. Tomorrow I hope to get that last coat sprayed tomorrow, I needed the fog to settle and let things flash over before adding more layers. Have it aired out enough I have the heaters going keeping it at 75 degrees over night for things to dry out.

It really is a remarkable product. It took awhile to get the gun dialed in, but once I did and followed the needle settings and pressure settings from their website it went on very nice. So far on a 22' shell here's what I've used:

1 1/2 gallons of white epoxy primer

2 3/4 gallons of zolatone

I have 1 1/4 gallons left, won't use all of it, but will need some for touch ups, and for some of the hardware yet to be painted (lifters, etc).

I'm still trying to decide if I want to zolatone the entry door interior or strip it and polish it so it matches when open. I really like the door-within-a-door's when they match the trailer when open, but the door itself is pretty historic too. Have the materials either way.