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goransons · 12-28-2009, 02:35 PM

We're not sure if we're good to go on the plate or not. 3 trips to the licensing office with emails in hand and the gentleman said he had to force the computer to do the work by saying it was motorized on one screen (though it doesn't show on the title). He kept the copies of the emails and took down my number in case the state called with problems.

I think I'll wait to mail the plates for repainting until I have officially received word that nobody has changed their minds and a new title reflecting the new plate number arrives at my door step.

I'm hoping the next news I'll have on the matter is good.

pbearsailor · 12-28-2009, 05:04 PM

Sure hope it works out for you on the plate, Scott. I'd sure love to be able to do that on mine.

steve

goransons · 12-28-2009, 11:07 PM

Wally came over today and helped me get rivets in. Lucky him, though bucking he had the heated space, I was standing out on the ice running the very cold rivet gun.

Didn't get much else done today, lots of time at the DMV, had a refrigerator delivered to the house today and had to pull the kitchen doorjam out of the wall to get it in, even with the refer doors off. Just finished that up moments ago.

The biggest news today is that we are expecting a baby girl April 28th or so (we've known its coming but didn't know gender until this morning).

Zeppelinium · 12-28-2009, 11:27 PM

congrats on the soon-to-be daughter. She's going to kill you when she discovers you've been putting nekid photos of her on the web...

Zep

65CV · 12-29-2009, 05:08 AM

Scott-

Congratulations and best of luck. She obviously has her mother's good looks.

John

flyfshr · 12-29-2009, 06:46 AM

Congrats Goranson family. She looks like an Airstreamer to me. Better get her bunk ready because she'll be needing it soon.

Brad
FF

goransons · 12-29-2009, 05:24 PM

Jim asked me to post photos of the roof locker track I'd like to find.

Both the kitchen roof locker and curbside goucho roof locker tracks were destroyed when the PO's handyman ripped the doors out to get the screws instead of removing them correctly.

Its plastic, and both incorporates the slides for the doors, but also has a lip that covers the edge of the 1/4" plywood that makes up the face of the cabinet. (looking at picture #1, left most detail covers the outside lip of the cabinet opening, then two track slides, then a beveled edge and a deep face that dresses the inside edge of the cabinet and provides an attachment surface).

Here are some substitutions I've found, but would require the cabinet construction to be modified to not only support the track, but to also dress the plywood edge of the face.

Plastic:

4 Foot Plastic Sliding Door Track - Rockler Woodworking Tools

wood:

Hardwood Track and Upper Guide - Rockler Woodworking Tools

But here are pictures of what I'd really like to find:
As usual, thanks for your help!

Jim & Susan · 12-29-2009, 06:54 PM

OK, well I have to apologize. I was thinking of the roll-up type tambour doors. That's the parts that I have on hand. Those didn't come along until several years later. Here's an idea for you, tho.

After looking at the Rockler wooden parts, I'll bet you can get somebody to make an exact wooden replacement. Last winter, we put down new hardwood floors on the first floor of our house. The threshold molding was going to run about $150 to $200 (to transition from the living room to the kitchen and in the various doorways). I have a buddy that has a wood shop, so I bought a piece of stock 1" x 2" oak and had him router it down to the shape we needed. A little stain and everything matched perfectly. Total cost was about $50 for 15 or 16 feet of material.

Maybe not the best solution from a money standpoint, but you can get an exact replacement part that will last forever. And have a great (boring) story to tell around the campfire, the kind of story I love to tell people.

Jim

VIKING · 12-29-2009, 07:25 PM

EPCO - Manufacturer of Architectural and Functional Hardware Products

I doubt you'll find exactly what you are after Scott, unless you can find used ones. The link above has some more profiles but you may have to cut and glue pieces from a couple of different profiles to make up a suitable replacement. Another approach is to make some out of wood or aluminum. You can paint it to resemble plastic, but it would be un-original in terms of durability

Rich the Viking

Blue Pearl · 12-30-2009, 12:00 AM

Congratulation, another airstreamer. Dinette cushions make perfect baby beds. I'm excited to see both your babies at a Rally.

Overlander & Sea · 12-31-2009, 01:53 PM

Scott,

I saw this on the Vintage Airstream Club's web site (www.vintageairstreamclub.com). He's parting out a '63 Globetrotter. Threre may be some parts you can use, hope so. I didn't know if you had seen it.

Here's a link to his pictures.

Picasa Web Albums - Charlie - Airstream

Happy New Year,

Rick

goransons · 12-31-2009, 07:05 PM

Rick this is perfect, though I haven't renewed my WBCCI dues yet so don't have access to their contact info (can anyone help me out?)

The tracks are present, look to be in decent shape, and even better it has the correct black tank that hasn't been all beaten up. Hoping I can reach him and work out a deal.

Any help is appreciated!

Thanks Rick (and others!)

goransons · 12-31-2009, 09:12 PM

Thanks Rick, had the vintage, Vintage Advantage (spring 08) in our stack of mail waiting when we got home. It is much appreciated.

Joe, back to the door hinge versions, when checking out the photos (cvair's) he's got the same door hinge set up that I have (inner door with piano hinge) but he has the 2nd style hold back. Also heard from Mary tonight that a DVD is coming for me and a copy for you of all her slides from the ATWC. Should have it any day now.

Here's a link to his photo showing it.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_mZt9Wq3vudE/Sp...0/DSC02428.JPG

HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!

goransons · 01-01-2010, 05:56 PM

Started stripping paint again today, and was very encouraged I didn't see puddling of water on my new subfloor. Was in there all day, then noticed as I was cleaning up a wet edge along the rear, just wicking out slightly from the c channel.

Much smaller than before but obvious all leaks aren't gone.

Tomorrow morning when I have daylight I'll be pulling the interior lower panels back off in the rear to see if I can find the leak. Location is about 1 foot past the window on each side. I can't help but wonder if its some how getting around the rear window or tail lights and down into the C channel itself, then only getting slightly wet due to the shape of the channel until it gets forward into the radius where it has been snipped (just about 1 foot around the corner to be exact) then draining out there.

Anyone know how much those leak detection units that go in a vent cost? Anyone tried a high power fan and had any results?

If I can't find it in the tail lights and/or find a better way to track it down, I'm affraid I'm running out of options that don't require pulling the rear end cap down. Its pretty brittle and I'd rather not if at all possible.

I did some paint removal today, and got my zolatone on its way, in the $600 range for all the paint, epoxy primer and supplies. The Mrs. gave me the gun for Christmas to shoot it. Of course application is on hold until I solve this water issue.

Really only have another day or two of paint removal and sanding before I'm ready to reinstall trim and start final prep.

Front half of skin is done, front end cap is about half sanded, and back half has had the first two coats of stripper applied. If I'm counting right, not including the zolatone layers there are 4 layers of white, one off white and one baby blue coat of paint.

One more pass and then the DA to finish it up.

soldiermedic · 01-01-2010, 06:46 PM

Hey Scott,

The Sealtech 430r unit costs around $3,000 from Sealtech Mfg. You can find used or damaged stuff sometimes, but hardly ever. This squirrel cage moves a ton of air, and I don't see a box fan moving that much air. Same with a leaf blower. Have you considered that it may just be condensation for the cold metal and warm air inside? I have been getting that in the Flying Cloud.

Steve

goransons · 01-01-2010, 07:24 PM

I don't think its condensation, only because it is so isolated to these two areas and nothing visable elsewhere on the trailer... I pulled the rear center lower panel (under the window) and the two lower panels here's what I know

1. I've got moisture on the plywood in both corners, street and curbside

2. I found no wet insulation except just a few droplets in one place next to the floor.

3. I found that the rear bathroom window was leaking outside of the bulb seal, street side bottom corner through to the interior. I dried this area out with a hairdryer applied some vulkem and put some plastic to keep it dry to cure.

4. The leak on the curb side has no signs of wet insulation, or drips of any kind in the wall. I'm leading toward a possible leak at the belt rail, though it is sealed well on top, the major leak area is just about where the frame rail meets and I wonder if I'm getting water under that is wicking up.

The good news is those panels were with the exception of a few rivets to the fiberglass just cleco'd in place.

Bad news, I still am not real sure I have the leak source "discovered". But perhaps have narrowed it down. With the amount of water I would guess I would have some moist insulation if the leak was coming from above, but that isn't totally foolproof either.

Steve, any idea of the CFM your unit pulls? At 3k it would be cheaper to fly you here

3Ms75Argosy · 01-01-2010, 07:33 PM

Any chance it's from the side marker lights? Maybe tape some toilet paper along the wall halfway up to see if the drips are coming from above? That would show a drip pretty well vs. looking at the insulation.

goransons · 01-01-2010, 07:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3Ms75Argosy

Any chance it's from the side marker lights? Maybe tape some toilet paper along the wall halfway up to see if the drips are coming from above? That would show a drip pretty well vs. looking at the insulation.

Marc, headed out to try that now, I think its a great idea. Will give it over night (we're getting light rain now). Marker lights are about 18" foward of the leak and down hill, so those aren't it. Toilet paper test coming....

goransons · 01-01-2010, 09:15 PM

hmmm no wet paper on the street side so far

think the bottom corner of the window might have been the culprit there. Will check again in the morning

curbside - found a tiny weapy rivet, dried that and sealed it. small amount of standing water on the C channel just above the curbside frame rail. not wet above it. Was about 8 inches of snow on the bumper cover, and I had neglected to seal the beltrail to bumper cover, so I think it may have indeed been wicking through. Tomorrow I will set to dry that out enough to seal it well. Its supposed to be clear and dry tomorrow.

Will report back... A+ for the toilet paper trick, that made it easy to find droplets on the skin

goransons · 01-02-2010, 09:11 PM

I switched paint strippers today and found the progress a little faster.

Got the kitchen vent unit cleaned up and reinstalled, and that panel back in place, with paint removed.

I'm not going to get perfectly down to bare metal everywhere, but certainly wanting to get all the household paint off the zolatone and get it as clean as I can.

I'm drilling out and replacing all the pop rivets as I encounter them. Easier to replace them than it is to clean them up, plus I've found many of the rivets are pulled or near sheared off and this way I know my new zolatone shouldn't be losing rivets right off the bat.

Once I've gotten through all the latex and oil paint I'm going over with 80 grit on a DA to feather edges and clean everything up.

End caps being sanded only, cutting through the white paint (which I know to be latex) and down to the more solid oil paints below. Everything is bonded real well so I'm not too concerned.

Everything will be getting coated with epoxy primer before zolatone. All surfaces will be very clean and have been sanded which should provide plenty of mechanical bond as well.

I have about 3 more linear feet of ceiling to start, then lots of final work to do on the rest, then end caps, and finally window trim.

Good news today, I had a great conversation with Charlie, through Rick's discovery of the 63 globetrotter interior parts for sale.

I originally went in search of the roof locker tracks, but found them to be in the same condition of what I have, but did find he has a black tank in exceptional condition, only needing some minor repair at the toilet flange. Only unfortunate part is that the tank is in Iowa and I'm in Washington, so I'd imagine I've got a at least $150 or more in shipping costs to get it here, but still it will be right, and look better than any final product of my fiberglass fabrication skills, and much stronger having not been hacked into so much.

Here's some more ceiling pictures, not that they are interesting, but just to remind me later of what a pain in the but stripping paint over your head can be.

Was back rereading my thread and had originally planned to strip paint before installing the plywood. But didn't... Biggest mistake to date!! I wish I could have done what insideout did and apply stripper then pressure wash it out. The scraping, sanding etc over my head is a real pain. At least the bottom 4 feet is all new metal, and inside all the cabinets the original zolatone was not painted, so just sanding there.

Oh, no rain to test for leaks today, but did start the day off drying out then resealing the belt line to frame rail joints. No drips down the wall over night so think the remaining leaks are belt line related.

Excited about the tank!!!