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Old 10-31-2009, 07:14 PM   #481
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Moving forward... $500 seems in line with the repair costs, but a hunk of money for a tank. Why don't you check with Uwe, Ryan, PBbear or Frank about tank sources. If you really want an original look, you could cut off the filler of the old tank, and figure out an adapter to the plastic tank. I don't think it would be all that hard to do. My tank in the Argosy just uses clear plastic tubing to fit... I think some oversized tubing, with a barb fitting to get smaller, and there you go. I do really like the stainless steel fillers from boats... Tim from the Vap used one on his SOTR... this is the route I'll be taking. I saw one BIN on Ebay with vent filler for around $40.00... out of Redmond no less!

Do you have a pressurized pump already? If not, you would have to buy one anyway... I don't think it would be any cheaper than buying a Sureflow pump.

I still think you'd be easily $100 to $200 ahead by going plastic.

While $90 is a chunk of change, I'd just move on... karma has a way with folks. Don't let their negative energy get you down. Think of all the positive's you've made with others here. I for one really enjoy your posts and watching the progress... worth much more than $90.00 to me!!

Happy Halloween!
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Old 10-31-2009, 07:19 PM   #482
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Scott - I'm not sure any epoxy product would be drinkable... think of all the issues with just normal plastic drinking bottles... I do remember drinking out of some old galvanized metal Colman drinking thermoses when I was young.. I still remember the taste. Is galvanized metal safe to drink from now? I think stainless would be better.

I do like the bladder idea... maybe cut off one end, insert a bladder, and then bolt the end back on.
How about this? http://www.interstateproducts.com/water_bladders.htm
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Old 10-31-2009, 08:02 PM   #483
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I'd be leery of any epoxy coating for a drinking water tank. We had a couple on the boat years ago and finally pitched them as the bad taste just never went away.

I like the bladder idea, but wonder if there might be some pickup issues with them when the bladder began to collapse as it emptied. Maybe not, though, as we've used them as a holding tank on the boat with no issues.

Cost wise, I'd wonder if you'd be cheaper using a stock plastic tank with a demand pump and trying to mate your stock fill to it somehow. I understand your desire to remain true to the original, but in this situation nothing that could be seen would change, would it? Function and reliability would sure seem to be better with a new demand pump than staying with the pressure system.

I'm using two 24 gallon Valterra ABS tanks under my floor, but I'd bet one of those tanks would fit in your space easily. Hard to find ABS tanks for drinking water, but these are approved for it, and it's very easy to add fittings anywhere you want. They were cheap, too, as I don't think I paid much more than $110 each for them.

cheers,
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Old 10-31-2009, 08:40 PM   #484
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I may go back and read this thread down the road and wonder "What was I thinking?" but there are several reasons I want to keep it if at all possible

1. I think the concept of the pressure tank is just a novelty, I don't the pump much anyway, most of our camping is full hookup, but just like to have an original system in the trailer functioning as original if possible.

2. plastic on demand tanks require a vent on the cap, while I have that setup, that means the cap can no longer function as the supply for the city connection as it did stock, which means adding yet another non-stock fitting on the exterior for a hose inlet.

I agree plastic is cheaper and easier, and in the end the only choice.

Marc - I do have a very functional pressure pump (stock) that I've fired up and it does well. Thanks for the reminder on all the positives here, they do truely add up to a lot!
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Old 11-01-2009, 12:07 AM   #485
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Another source of potable water metal tanks is in waterheaters. Just an idea...
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Old 11-01-2009, 12:15 AM   #486
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Thanks Rich, turning in for the night, but will research that some tomorrow. I think my galv. tank is pretty sound, just rusty inside (no leaks, no rust areas deep enough to show any signs on the outside of any kind). I'm thinking I may invest the $49.00 for a gallon of this stuff and try it. Way more than I need (gallon covers up to 2000 sf) but would likely put several coats. Here's the brief on it:

WATER TANK REPAIR: Jan/Feb 2000, Vol 5, No 1 Passagemaker Magazine p. 114 Ed Babniuk
Repair of metal water tanks which leak on the inside and are too difficult to remove. Use Microseal, an FDA approved non-toxic and odorless, thin liquid plastic type material. Available from Microseal company of Rome, New York. Phone 315-337-2720 at $36/gal. You must first open the access ports on your water tank and clean it out (pressure sprayer), then let it completely dry (shop wet vac to suck up as much as possible). Remove the water connection fittings so they don't get gunked then plug the hole with something. Microseal is dissolved in Methyl Ethel Ketone (MEK - nasty stuff) which evaporates after 3 days to leave the sealant bonding with the tank. One gallon microseal in the water tank (unknown size). Can use garden sprayer to get it up high on walls if needed. If not just slosh it around to cover bottom and corners. Don't use heat gun to dry (explosive).

They also now make it in an acetone based formula that is also FDA approved.

website of the company is microleak.com
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Old 11-01-2009, 04:27 PM   #487
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little projects / few questions

more work trying to get weather tight.

1. Rear vent needed to be all rewired, parts cleaned, weatherstripped, paint stripped off the trim and reriveted on.

2. Astrodome had been covered with a fiberglass RV cover that wasn't even close to a good fit, and had been siliconed many many tubes for that matter onto the roof. After several hours all the silicone and paint out of there, some rebuilt lifters and a cover (this one's metal, will get upgraded to a reproduction as soon as the wallet permits) but no weather strip yet.

Weatherstrip, this astrodome has a channel on the top lip (mating surface to the lid) and some type of grove to accept a gasket, but don't see anything like that available online, just gaskets that attach to the lid itself. I'm thinking I could use a little weatherstrip adhesive and use the "D" gasket used on the door-within-a-door etc, but is there something else that is an exact fit?

Need to figure out if I can shorten the screen about 1/2 inch. Going to take it to a place that does screens and see if they can do it, and install new grommets for the lifters at the same time in new screen.

Pulled the pressure pump out of the box and tested it, works great, even shuts itself off when pressure is reached. Does anyone know what type of oil that uses so I can drain it out and refill?
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Old 11-01-2009, 07:55 PM   #488
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after a little digging I figured out I'd read about the pumps at some point and saved a link that talked about grover air pumps, and 1393 was the number... some more google searching and found it is 20 sae oil.
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Old 11-01-2009, 08:20 PM   #489
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Weatherstrip, this astrodome has a channel on the top lip (mating surface to the lid) and some type of grove to accept a gasket, but don't see anything like that available online, just gaskets that attach to the lid itself. I'm thinking I could use a little weatherstrip adhesive and use the "D" gasket used on the door-within-a-door etc, but is there something else that is an exact fit?
This is what we did on the 60 except that the gasket was attach to the trailer side on the metal lip. Couldn't find much else. Worked fine no leaks in two years.
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Old 11-03-2009, 06:44 PM   #490
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baby steps...

Heard from the tank seller, apparently was out of the office and has agreed to a partial refund. Can use that towards the tank sealer expirment. So that's some good news...

4 photos attached:


1. shaved some rivets on the endcap patch and did some more polishing. Think it turned out pretty good for my first compound attempt.

2. The entire trailer is extremely pitted, not to the point you can catch it with a fingernail or anything but event after a long time with F7 you can see a reflection but definately lots of filform left behind. Do you think I should try G6 or F9 or just stick with F7? Photo 3 represents about an hour's polishing.

3. These handles (almosted pitted all the way through) are located (and leaking) on all 4 corners of the trailer on the first and last bow where they meet the end cap, just above the window, both street and curbside. I can't seem to think of what they were for, unless they were somehow a place for guide ropes or something when they loaded and unloaded these at the ports?!?

4. A lot of the areas on the trailer (such as below the door gutter as shown here, or below lights, corners of windows etc) have discolored streaks that run down, are whitish at first polish pass but have a rainbow hue to them. Some areas I've successfully polished it away, but others so far I have failed. Anyone else encountered this problem and how did you solve it?
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Old 11-03-2009, 08:05 PM   #491
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Scott - Try the Jestco products. MUCH faster at initial removal of your oxidation and those streaks you are having troubles with. I've had the same streaks, and with patience the Jestco products will remove them. I do think however that to get a final mirror shine (if I elect to go that far) will require the Cyclo & Nuvite products. Gool luck.
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Old 11-03-2009, 08:15 PM   #492
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The entire trailer is extremely pitted,
A lot of the areas on the trailer (such as below the door gutter as shown here, or below lights, corners of windows etc) have discolored streaks that run down, are whitish at first polish pass but have a rainbow hue to them. Some areas I've successfully polished it away, but others so far I have failed. Anyone else encountered this problem and how did you solve it?
That is called beauty. That is called character. That is a badge of honor. That is something to be proud of. That is what makes your trailer yours. Somethings are just meant to not be perfect. Even with the Jestco(which I swear by) and a final Cyclo of Something fine(which I swear by too, "C" is fine enough for me), those tears of history of the trailer will still be there.
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Old 11-03-2009, 08:39 PM   #493
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Thanks guys, never intended it to be perfect, thus leaving lots of panels that have character. Any idea on what would cause those marks? Is it iron, salt, chemicals, etc? Just wondering.
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Old 11-04-2009, 07:50 AM   #494
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Scott - Try the Jestco products. MUCH faster at initial removal of your oxidation and those streaks you are having troubles with. I've had the same streaks, and with patience the Jestco products will remove them. I do think however that to get a final mirror shine (if I elect to go that far) will require the Cyclo & Nuvite products. Gool luck.
Well Jim, it SOUNDS like you're getting some work done, but without pictures as proof, how can I really be sure...?

Those handles are crazy, Scott. I have no idea what they'd be used for, but I'm certainly no expert on vintage carvanning techniques. Your progress looks good, hope you can get it all buttoned up before old man Winter arrives for good.

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Old 11-04-2009, 09:38 AM   #495
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Scott - maybe those handles kept the ropes that were used to hoist the trailers onto the boats from slipping towards the middle? Conversely, they could've been used to strap the trailers down when on the boat?? I'm sure PeeWee might have some insight.. or Fred Coldwell... maybe shoot them a PM and let the rest of us know what you find out?

I did find when polishing my tanks for the Argosy that the aggressive C9 worked pretty well on the pits. I think the streaks (which my trailer also has) might just be from pollution washing down the sides, streaking and staining the skin. Kinda like the old catherderals that one see's in Europe and elsewhere.
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Old 11-07-2009, 05:55 PM   #496
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I got as much polishing in today that mother nature would allow, but a few solid hours anyway (now the skies are black with clouds and the temp is falling fast).

Update on the discolored areas is that I found a buffing wheel on a drill and some of the red aluminum polish bars from harbor freight will cut through it with some time (ok a lot of time). I think this must have been kept under a tree, lots of areas where it looks like bird poop ate at the skin, and lots of little spots that look like they were sap at one point.

BUT after 3 passes with F7 here's the upper half of the curb side, at least to the awning rail. I need to go back and use the wheel to do the seams, around the door edges, the door eyebrow, and the window gutters so I can re-seal all those points before winter. Need to get some alcoa gutter seal ordered this weekend so I can seal some seams after I get them cleaned up.

I would guess I have at least 2-3 more passes with F7 or courser to go before I'll be happy enough wih the finish to go to C and start detailing it down, most will have to wait for warmer weather, but it already looks better for the neighbor (note how close their fence is to the trailer. Her office and kitchen Window look directly over, so trying to be a nice neighbor, plus the cyclo is so relaxing...)

If this storm blows through, I hope to work on those tomorrow and install the new refrigerator scoop.
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Old 11-08-2009, 08:37 AM   #497
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Wow Scott...that looks like your hard work, time, and elbow grease are all paying off. I have alot of black stuff all over my eyebrows, and dunno how much work they will be to polish, but polishing is pretty far off. I want to be able to camp before worrying about polish.

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Old 11-08-2009, 05:51 PM   #498
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refer cap, polishing, gutter seal question

Continuing to get known water sources cleaned up, first was to switch out the refer cover with an original aluminum one. Still need to seal it to the roof, but ran out of vuelkem. Love how it blends in (even without much polishing) and don't have to worry about the brittle plastic. This one is slightly wider than the fiberglass one, but I was having problems last winter with standing snow falling into the vent and onto the floor.

Polished the area on the roof where the vent went on, cleaned up up some of the rivet areas were I patched the bow last winter.

Going to order some alcoa gutter seal to redo the seams on the rear end cap (its all covered with white silicone). I see VTS has it, 5 oz tube. Is one enough to do an end cap or should I plan on multiple tubes?
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Old 11-08-2009, 11:15 PM   #499
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forgot

forgot to add the slow project that takes just a little work, but lots of setup time each step.

Black tank is coming along slowly, 4 layers of fiberglass cloth today (and 1 layer of matt on the back to use the stuff up) and the apron is coming along. Made a form out of some rigid insulation and aluminum tape. Have some sanding, trimming, and some more resin to finish up the face, then I just have a few more layers on the inside to beef up the braces that hold the toilet itself, then I can finally glass the bottom back in the tank.

I'm sure there are seasoned fiberglass people out there laughing at me, it isn't pretty, but it'll get there and look great eventually.

The missing corner btw is for the heat register, just need to trim the opening...
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Old 11-09-2009, 10:27 PM   #500
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anyone know where I can come across one of these TV antenna connects?
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