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Old 09-22-2009, 04:57 PM   #441
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ZOLATONE PREP

I know just like anything prep work is everything, but I'm wondering if I'm not doing too much, or if it is just that much work. The original zolatone is showing inside all cabinets, but end caps and expose walls have been painted with household type paint baby blue, then after that several coats of white. I replaced the lower metal, it was just too damaged and beat up, upper metal on the other hand was in good condition and didn't need to be totally removed so I left it. Now pulling paint off to bare metal is what I've been doing. 1 coat of paint stripper, then sanding down to bare metal to remove anything that has been affected by the stripper itself. I wonder if the epoxy primer going on wouldn't stick just as well to the household paint on top of the zolatone. Its hard to get off, its not peeling or in any way not sticking (much to the contrary). What do you think? BTW I'm not sure if the blue or white is oil or latex... in either case it is stuck on very well. Here's what I accomplished in about 2 hours. (times that by the rest of the surface area).
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Old 09-22-2009, 05:30 PM   #442
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You will do much better with much less work if you let the stripper do the work for you. Sand the surface lightly with 100 grit sandpaper to break the surface first, then put the stripper on and let it sit for a while(go have a beer), then apply more. do this over a few times(with one beer between each coat) and when the paint is bubbled and wrinkled go at it with a plastic putty knife or similar. Don't waste your time sanding the paint off. Scrape off what you can and re-apply stripper to remove the next layers of paint. I've had to apply stripper more than five times in some cases to get down to the surface, but it beats the you-know-what out of sanding over your head.
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Old 09-22-2009, 05:40 PM   #443
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Thanks Rich, it may just be the stripper I'm using, but it is an apply blue, turns white when ready to remove. I'll try several coats and see if that goes faster, I was just wondering if I'm making unnecessary work for myself if the epoxy primer will stick to it, why not leave it. Reading some posts, people are shooting zolatone over existing zolatone, existing reminants of stripped paint etc. I'm trying to draw that fine line between cutting corners (which I don't want to do) and doing a whole bunch of unnecessary work (which don't want to do either) that actually creates more steps (like using an etching primer over everything I have stripped).

Brad-

On the emblem, Steve thought it might be possible, but needed it in vector format, is that what you have set up.
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Old 09-22-2009, 06:00 PM   #444
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It's a personal decision, weather to strip to bare metal or not. I would remove it all. Then when it peels and falls off later, I know whose a$$ to kick, and he's easy to find.
I like citrus stripper but different paints require different strippers. Citrus is less toxic than most other strippers.
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Old 09-22-2009, 06:55 PM   #445
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On the emblem, Steve thought it might be possible, but needed it in vector format, is that what you have set up.
Yup, that is what I have it set up in.

On the stripping, might as well take it all off if you can without alot of mess and struggle. Try a product called Aircraft Remover. Its nasty stuff but get through the Zolotone in about two or three applications. Comes off with a plastic putty knife. You'll need lots of these as the stripper breaks down the plastic over time. You'll also need some quality gloves, respirator, safety goggles and your body parts completely covered. Its really nasty stuff but it really works well on the Zolotone.

Brad
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Old 09-22-2009, 07:44 PM   #446
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ZOLATONE PREP

I know just like anything prep work is everything, but I'm wondering if I'm not doing too much, or if it is just that much work.
We used CitriStrip - put it on, wait 15-20 minutes then pressure washed it off. We did not go all the way down to bare aluminum, but got the bulk of it off. The CitriStrip made latex come off in sheets. Yes, it is a lot of work - but we did our whole 22-footer in a weekend - that little patch taking two hours is way too much time IMO.

We didn't have the floor in yet and hadn't sealed the seams so the pressure washer on the inside was fine. We have since sealed the seams and have no leaks. Being that you already have your new floor in, I doubt you will want to do it this way - but try the CitriStrip - it works really well.

I would definitely get all but the most stubborn "old stuff" off before going to the effort & expense of new Zolatone. I'd be so afraid the primer would react with the old stuff and come peeling off bringing the Zolatone with it. Maybe not "day one"...but who knows when. The primer is only as good as what it is adhered to...

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Old 09-22-2009, 07:49 PM   #447
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ZOLATONE PREP

I know just like anything prep work is everything, but I'm wondering if I'm not doing too much, or if it is just that much work.
Scott,
See if you can rent a soda blaster in your area ... this is fast, safe, non-destructive & if you get a heavy-duty enough unit, easy!
This is what I am going to use on the inside and outside of "Tar Baby".
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Old 09-23-2009, 12:43 AM   #448
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Yup, that is what I have it set up in.

On the stripping, might as well take it all off if you can without alot of mess and struggle. Try a product called Aircraft Remover. Its nasty stuff but get through the Zolotone in about two or three applications. Comes off with a plastic putty knife. You'll need lots of these as the stripper breaks down the plastic over time. You'll also need some quality gloves, respirator, safety goggles and your body parts completely covered. Its really nasty stuff but it really works well on the Zolotone.

Brad
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Scott, I have stripped and restored a few vintage Corvettes. Aircraft Remover works great but, lay on a heavy coat and then cover it with Saran wrap. The stripper wont dry out and you will probably get it all with one coat. Give it a try and let us know what you think.

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Old 09-23-2009, 08:44 AM   #449
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I used the Citrus stuff for some of my stripping, but it couldn't touch the zolatone in some place. Aircraft remover took it off like melted butter. But be careful, that stuff is nasty nasty nasty. I got a tiny speck of it on my arm, didn't see it, and it started burning within seconds. Had to wash the heck out of it to get it off. Wear long pants, long sleeved shirt, heavy chemical gloves (it'll go right through the thin ones), mask, and eye protection.
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Old 09-23-2009, 08:20 PM   #450
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I'm going to try a second coat of the stuff I already have, and see how it does. I did the first test areas with Citrus and it didn't get very deep, typically I use that stuff for everything. This color changing stuff from Home Depot,I still have almost a full gallon of it, so I'm going to try to make use of it, get a few different types of putty knives and try it and see what happens. I'm going to sand the fiberglass end camps as best I can without getting all the way throug the zolatone there, don't want to damage the gel coat. May resort to aircraft stripper, just rather not waste a gallon of the other stuff.

Some good news, was contacted by a forum member that has an aluminum pressure tank (fresh water) that looks in good shape, only issue is getting it from Indiana to Washington state for less than a new tank costs. They are working on a shipping estimate for me to a commercial address. We'll see how it goes!
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Old 09-24-2009, 12:16 PM   #451
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My 63 Tradewind has a layer of Latex over the zolatone. I want to keep the zolatone in tact, but I think using any stripper will do it harm. It may be a lost cause at this point.

Steve
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Old 09-24-2009, 12:35 PM   #452
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Soldiermedic, There are some speciality strippers that might cut the latex without doing much to the Zolatone but it's very iffy. They almost all use the same chemical, just in different strengths and viscosities. Unfortunately, it will be easier in the long run to strip it all and re-paint the Zolatone.
On the positive side, you will be able to pick the colors and texture you want, and the old Zolatone was probably in poor condition when it was re-painted anyway.
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Old 09-24-2009, 02:07 PM   #453
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My 63 Tradewind has a layer of Latex over the zolatone. I want to keep the zolatone in tact, but I think using any stripper will do it harm. It may be a lost cause at this point.
We had hoped to do the same...we went to the big box store and bought "one of everything" to test them out and see if any would achieve that result....remember this ol' thread:

Looking for strippers that DON'T work...

The only one that worked was Motsenbocker's Lift-Off #5

Shari
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Old 09-25-2009, 12:03 AM   #454
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My 63 Tradewind has a layer of Latex over the zolatone. I want to keep the zolatone in tact, but I think using any stripper will do it harm. It may be a lost cause at this point.

Steve
Our '63 Ambassador has Latex over the Zolatone, but it's real dirty, so I've been cleaning the walls and ceiling. I have been using Krud Kutter and interestingly it is removing the latex in some areas. I am thinking if I take my time (and LOT of hours and a few gallons of Krud Kutter) I may be able to get all the Latex off, but it's really too early to tell. Krud Kutter claims to be pretty safe and biodegradable (at least compared to some of the other possible cleaners). It does say it will remove dried on Latex. Maybe one reason it is working for us is the heavy coat of nicotine on the walls is preventing the Latex from adhering too well.
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Old 09-25-2009, 02:11 PM   #455
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Krud Kutter WILL take off latex, especially over wood or unprimed metal. It also took off some of the latex over zolatone in the front part of my trailer, as 66O said.

The Citristrip took several coats to get through the latex AND zolatone on mine, so a light coating of citristrip might take off just the latex. But there would probably be some patches where it went all the way through, which is likely not the result you'd like to see.

-Marcus
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Old 09-25-2009, 02:41 PM   #456
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shipping the tank.

Have the tank rolled in bubble wrap, taped well and shipped by Fed Ex. It won't cost that much and will ship without a problem. You can probably "return" ship for less. Check it out.
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Old 09-26-2009, 11:11 AM   #457
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Hi Scott ~

I sent the file for the ATW emblem out to a friend of a friend who has a vinyl cutter to get a quote for 5 of these. Still need to source the brass and will get on that this afternoon. Should hear back from the vinyl cutter soon and will let you know via PM.

We're progressing right along.

Brad
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Old 09-26-2009, 02:20 PM   #458
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Hi Scott ~

I sent the file for the ATW emblem out to a friend of a friend who has a vinyl cutter to get a quote for 5 of these. Still need to source the brass and will get on that this afternoon. Should hear back from the vinyl cutter soon and will let you know via PM.

We're progressing right along.

Brad
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add 2 to that ...
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Old 09-26-2009, 07:54 PM   #459
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Thanks Brad, sounds great, we'd like to have at least 2, one for outside one for display purposes. Kinda out to lunch here, rough week, two big performances including a 3 mile parade today and my dad's a few hours away in the hospital waiting for an artificial heart implant to be replaced next week.
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Old 10-12-2009, 06:55 PM   #460
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Early in my restoration project I reclaimed two louvered doors off a roll-over at a rv salvage yard. I've installed one on my trailer.



It says Dometic, but I don't think that a Norcold would take offense. It also lacks the thumb catch. You are welcome to it for the postage. Send me a PM if you want it.
Thanks!! great work with the install, very impressive trimming job there! Took forever to get the square door in, let alone those nice rounded corners. If I wasn't trying to stay very close to absolute stock I'd take you up on the generous offer!! I'm sorry I totally missed your initial post, was showing my 2 year old photos (he randomly wanted to see the trailer) and realized you'd offered the door! Thanks again!
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