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Old 08-24-2009, 07:06 PM   #401
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Nice work Scott, I've just caught up on your recent work. Looking really good!

-Marcus
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Old 08-24-2009, 07:21 PM   #402
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Was the "SAFARI" just regular aluminum or was it originally painted or plated somehow?
This is what ours looked like, never tested it but it looked like "pot" metal to me.
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Old 08-24-2009, 07:46 PM   #403
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Great thanks, it appears maybe it was cast, then plated, back shows some sign of brass or copper plate. Mine is pitted pretty bad around the edges of the letters. I'm going to carefully file those off, clean and clearcoat the script to slow down the breakdown. I just wasn't sure if the sides of the letters were blue or not. It will never get easier to work on the emblem that it is now.
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Old 08-25-2009, 05:28 PM   #404
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Street side almost in

Spent the good part of the morning making the replacement panel for the lower street side. It definately sticks out right now, but once polished I think it will all blend well. I still have to finish repairing the belly pan where it meets the forward side of the wheel well, so don't mind some of the pink stuff sticking out on the photos, just ran out of time for the day.

Before:



After (sorta)



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Old 08-25-2009, 05:38 PM   #405
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That really looks great, Scott! You've made a bunch of progress lately.

cheers,
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Old 08-26-2009, 09:59 PM   #406
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Bad window day:

Wally and I almost finished riveting, then I went to crank down the kitchen window, and snap, noticed the window frame had been slightly off center on its way down (even though the center pin was in) and the top front corner of the frame cracked at the weld.

Of course had to be window I had already replaced the glass in and reglazed. Off to the welder with that, oh I should go ahead and have them fix the top corner of the front window someone long ago had repaired with an L bracket. Started taking that window out, and the frame came unglued in the other corner and the glass went crashing to the ground. Thank god those aren't mirrors, or I'd be up a creek a long time. Anyway, spent an hour getting the hinge out of the track, it was bent in the middle by someone who had then forced it in the track. Finally got it out and got both windows to a welder to put back together.

Pick them up tomorrow night, then new glass and we should be back to normal, but geez, one of those days.
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Old 08-27-2009, 01:42 AM   #407
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Murphy must have been helping

Sounds like normal airstream restoration. Happens to us all the time. It just lets the fun last longer. Sounds like you are hanging in there and I'm enjoying watching your progress, waiting to help with the interior, if needed. We are finished with the 1968 Ambassador, at least so we can enjoy it the rest of the summer and fall then back to work with some more polishing and details.
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Old 08-28-2009, 07:51 PM   #408
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We got most of the rivets finished up today on the street side panel, still have a few more to put in tomorrow, rebuilt the two newly welded window frames with new glass, new glazing strips and tape. Also did some initial polishing to see how the panels would match.

Didn't have my rivet helper today, Wally (who should be posting soon) just picked up his dream trailer, a 56 flying cloud, absolutely cool little trailer. I'll let him share all the rest on that.

Wheel well info is back in place, including the trim, just a couple dozen rivets and I can polish the rest of the panel out.

Anyone able to make louvered panels? I need one for the refrigerator door, the lower one. I elected to keep the modification done many years ago, eliminating the hole in the floor for the refrigerator (since its elevated above the wheel well anyway) and have an equally big air intake at the lower hatch. The problem with the hole in the floor, 1 is right against the frame rail, so the floor was very weak there, and it was right behind the wheel, and was a huge moisture issue.

Whomever did the mod, screwed a louvered cover onto the original door, but didn't leave a provision for a lock or latch, and don't like the lines, figured the door is easy enough to make, and a hot rod guy or something could press some louvers into it.

The stock setup had two of the 5 bows on the street side stopping short of the floor, one being over the wheel, and the other over the heater location. I have some bow pieces from the rear repair, and am going to build some additional supports in that wall, which right now is actually slightly distorted below the bow ends. I should be able to use two short sections, and a some C channel and make a header to go under the end of the bow and transfer the weight around the furnace, and to either side of the wheel well and provide much more support.

Street side photo and new front window
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Old 08-28-2009, 08:54 PM   #409
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goransons View Post
Anyone able to make louvered panels? I need one for the refrigerator door, the lower one. I elected to keep the modification done many years ago, eliminating the hole in the floor for the refrigerator (since its elevated above the wheel well anyway) and have an equally big air intake at the lower hatch. The problem with the hole in the floor, 1 is right against the frame rail, so the floor was very weak there, and it was right behind the wheel, and was a huge moisture issue.
I remember this one for Jordan's long thread http://www.airforums.com/forums/457338-post489.html

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Old 08-29-2009, 03:53 AM   #410
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David Winick at finest vintage and custom Airstream trailers makes them too.
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Old 08-29-2009, 05:45 AM   #411
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Early in my restoration project I reclaimed two louvered doors off a roll-over at a rv salvage yard. I've installed one on my trailer.



It says Dometic, but I don't think that a Norcold would take offense. It also lacks the thumb catch. You are welcome to it for the postage. Send me a PM if you want it.
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Old 08-29-2009, 08:06 AM   #412
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Originally Posted by goransons View Post

The stock setup had two of the 5 bows on the street side stopping short of the floor, one being over the wheel, and the other over the heater location. I have some bow pieces from the rear repair, and am going to build some additional supports in that wall, which right now is actually slightly distorted below the bow ends. I should be able to use two short sections, and a some C channel and make a header to go under the end of the bow and transfer the weight around the furnace, and to either side of the wheel well and provide much more support.

Street side photo and new front window
I did the same thing over the wheel wells
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Old 08-31-2009, 07:52 PM   #413
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Back to work today, so things will probably be slower for awhile. I did get the rib extended which took the distortion out of the side wall. I also have all but 2 panels back on the interior.

Once I get the final polish on the panel by the door I can reinstall the data plates, and close that up, and just a little plumbing work to do on the furnace and that segment of the project will be done.

I need some help on planning on the furnace.

There is a good condition suburban furnace (newer) that had been added in the last 5-10 years in the trailer, it uses this style vent


one vent opening over the other

I want to place over that the stock exterior cover as seen here


front


rear

The stock setup had two lower chambers, left and right, venting intake I think one side and exhaust out the top chamber, the modern suburban vents top and bottom. I was thinking I could cut an opening in the back so that the intake uses both bottom baffles and the exhaust goes out the seperate top chamber. What do you think?

I figured I could hinge the entire unit like some have done with modern water heaters behind the old covers. I like the idea of no pilot light, no major exterior doors to leak etc with this modern unit, but want to make it blend in.
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Old 08-31-2009, 09:27 PM   #414
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Yes, I like that idea. It will look the same from the exterior, but you will have a safe, modern unit for use.

I plan to remove my furnace entirely, but will leave the vent on the exterior when I do so, to have it appear stock from the outside. I also plan to attach an old water heater baffle to the door of my new(er) water heater, as many others have done, so it will look vintage stock as well.

You're coming along well, looks great!

-Marcus
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Old 08-31-2009, 09:33 PM   #415
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Thanks Marcus, feels sooooo slow on progress. I figured I'd be doing final prep for zolatone right now, haven't even stripped the top half of the interior yet.

I'm just trying to figure out how to mount that cover. Someone awhile back mentioned using a piano hinge, but need some type of latch to hold it closed that can sit flush with the skin and not leak out the back side. Not sure where to go. Would like to get it mounted in place before I put the interior skin back in, so I can avoid olympic rivets on it.
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Old 09-06-2009, 02:31 PM   #416
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Polished the new panel by the door and finished installing the cleaned up emblems, handle and data plate. .28 inches of rain yesterday here, throughout the day, so located a few small leaks that I'm taking care of, one that is going to wait a week or so, the rear segment patched on the caravan is patched with pop rivets and they leak (go figure).
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Old 09-06-2009, 05:45 PM   #417
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Furnace cover

Well I have all the holes and vent locations for the suburban vent located on the interior of the skin, and just need to drill through and cut out the holes.

What I'm still trying to figure out, is exactly how to latch the cover on. I plan to use a piano hinge on the forward side, but need to figure out a positive locking system to hold it shut.

Tim posted these photos awhile back, and this particular installation uses some type of captive thread in the place of a rivet and a thumb screw that is captive in the cover.

Anyone know a source for these? Whatever is used in the skin would need to be a weather tight setup, or something that can be made weathertight I guess.
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Old 09-06-2009, 06:34 PM   #418
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Anyone know a source for these? Whatever is used in the skin would need to be a weather tight setup, or something that can be made weathertight I guess.
Maybe a camloc or dzus fastener of some kind, Scott? Fasteners from Aircraft Spruce

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Old 09-06-2009, 06:47 PM   #419
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Scott,

8671 is looking so good! Keep up with the photos we really enjoy them.

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Old 09-06-2009, 10:41 PM   #420
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Thanks Steve, not sure what I'm looking for to be honest, I think that might work but not sure how to make it water tight since they need an opening in the skin to work. More brainstorming needed I guess (my brain already hurts).

Thanks Vinnie, we're enjoying making progress, glad most of the dirty work is finally done.


Does anyone know a source for a perfect circle (4.5") in brass or aluminum plate? I need a couple to try for reproductions on the Around The World Carvan plate missing next to the door. Trophy shops here can't do it, sheet metal shops will do it but it would have a 1/4" hole in the middle which won't work either.
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