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Old 11-29-2008, 08:51 PM   #21
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She's home at last!

32 hours in the truck or hooking up to the truck but we're home safe. Friday morning we left at 5:00 AM home and arrived at the Kellers in Napa CA at 7:30 PM (non-stop except gas stations etc).

We had two cameras, the other is with by brother so I will post those later. Great weather on the way down, just a little rain by Portland Oregon. My brother Eric and his son Alec came along (Alec to watch, Eric to switch off driving).

Rob and his wife were as pleasant in person as they were over the phone. These are amazing people and did what they didn't have any obligation to do and should be complimented for doing so. I hope that anyone that reached out to these individuals with less than wonderful means of communication can overcome that with the Kellers. They are truely great people who did what was best for the trailer despite some very negative attacks, and ultimately I think it worked out great for everyone.

Pictures of the switch at his house will be posted later, but my nephew had never seen the Golden Gate Bridge so we made a detour before heading home for a few photos (11:30 PM).

We drove through incredibly dense fog, stopped at In & Out Burger (we love it, but none of those around our state) and finally pulled into a rest stop around 3:00 AM and rested in the truck until 4:30 AM and headed out again. 4:45 this evening I arrived at the house and backed into the driveway.

The Overlander was outstanding, but having good axles, greased bearings, overhauled brakes and new tires made that simple. 8671 had one bias ply (newer) and one radial (brand new) and such a shot axle that the tires can't be removed without deflating and distorting the skin out to get the tire around. Neadless to say the trailer didn't have its smoothest ride.

We had tied the door shut just in case because the latches didn't seem to catch well and the door had a lot of play in it. Discovered just north of San Francisco that the top hinge and broken around the pin and the door was sagging and in danger of falling off entirely. After some carefully engineered (no jokes please) use of duct tape and rope the door was carefully attached so it could not (short of a natural disaster) come off the trailer.

I do have the pin, the center spacer and one of the 2 loops of the stainless hinge that broke, the bottom loop is on I-505 somewhere. I know it can probably be welded and ground to look good (After being removed of course) but are these hinges available new/used through anyone?

I have spent maybe 5 minutes in and around the trailer beyond inspecting of bearings, checking wiring, tires and getting going. I'll take some good pictures tomorrow throughout and document the trailer as it stands for those that are interested. We are excited, though other than inventory, some glass replacement, weatherstrips and leak checks not much will be done for some months now while we pay for the trip, the improvements to the overlander and other aspects of getting this worked out with Rob.

Many many projects to deal with, just to start a basic list:

Full replacement of all plywood floor, frame repairs as necessary, stripping and redoing interior paint (stain etc as well) and other finishes (with as close to original as possible). Updated but inkeeping appliances (all are beyond reasonable restoration) and other mechanical systems. New Inland Andy axle with brakes etc. Restoration of exterior will repair some minor body damage but will preserve the "character" of the exterior in most cases, though I really do want to polish the exterior, perhaps not mirror finish but at least remove the oxide as much as I can (I have a cyclo and I'm not affraid to use it).

Interior of inner door's lettering (will post tomorrow) will be preserved somehow, TBD as the paint is fading rather quickly.

Please help me with the hinge dilema, the bottom hinge is rather distorted, guessing the top hinge was compromised already and the bottom was doing more than its fair share. Also just an FYI I really want to go back to the stock rear tail lights and am looking for the socks and backing plates for these if anyone runs across them give me a hollar. Right now someone (pre-Rob's ownership) added truck style rubber mount recessed lights. Repair will be necessary but can be done so without being visable whatsoever with stock lights reinstalled.

Thanks Joe, purman and others for all your help in the matter, and those that offered help along the route that thankfully we didn't need.

We'll be starting a blog on this but will keep 100% of that content included here on the forums as we go.

(Photo 1, Golden Gate)
(Photo 2, Dinner)
(Photo 3, Driveway at home)
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Old 11-29-2008, 09:05 PM   #22
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Glad you made it home safely! I will be very interested in your blog. Your saving a piece of history..

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Old 11-29-2008, 09:08 PM   #23
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ahha got it to let me upload more photos again, first two are photos of top broken hinge, last picture is the bottom hinge. Will take clearer ones tomorrow in the daylight with the ropes out of the way. Anyone recognize them and know of a source? Thanks!
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Old 11-29-2008, 09:29 PM   #24
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Brother's photos came through

Here we are getting the second AS backed in the next bay, then hooking up the Safari to the truck.
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Old 11-29-2008, 11:59 PM   #25
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Hey! Welcome back! Well... I've certainly had some good karma come my way via the forums... I do have two stock lights from my '64 TW... since you don't seem in too much of a hurry... could I donate mine to you around Feb or so? Both wedding cakes are intact.. the bases would need to be wired with new sockets (I think).. although the brakes lights still work. I also have three teardrop bases and (I think) lenses... let me know.
I'm in Seattle...
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Old 11-30-2008, 12:44 AM   #26
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Scott,
Congrats! Glad you and 8671 made it home safely (more or less). I wish I was closer and could offer more help, but for now it'll be only advice from a distance, if you so desire. And I too was thinking that putting 8671 back to original tail lights shouldn't be too big of a deal (I believe they were changed out a couple of years and three owners ago, by Cecil Copley that sold 8671 to the guy that flipped it on eBay to Rob).

As for the hinge, I'm sorry to hear about your troubles, but glad you were able to save the door. I'm sure someone will eventually come up with something to help out, but I did recently notice that 1963 Airstreams have unique door hinge setups (relative to earlier and later door-within-a-door setups):
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f480...oor-46382.html

We'll have to investigate that further to see if the hinge base that attaches to the body is the same as earlier and later hinges (which do have different parts that attach to the door and door-within-a-door), or if it is unique to 1963.
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Old 11-30-2008, 03:48 AM   #27
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I am very impressed with the actions you have taken. I sure hope you are proud of your self because you deserve to be.
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Old 11-30-2008, 09:33 AM   #28
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Scott, glad you had a safe trip there and back, congrats on the new trailer, looks nice. Lots of work ahead and looking forward to seeing pic.
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Old 11-30-2008, 09:34 AM   #29
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You could maybe talk to Andy about the door hinge, but you might have to get something fabed up if you want to keep it original..
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Old 11-30-2008, 04:09 PM   #30
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Interior photos as promised

I somewhat placed everything where it is supposed to go so I could figure out exactly what I have. Appears most major things are there, though almost every wood piece has had major water damage and all plywood products are coming apart. Not to worry, once we figure out what species of wood it is and when we get to that part of the project we'll make exact replacements for any bad wood.

Frame under the black tank/rear crossmember is paper thin on top and will need some work. Only two areas of rot, under the kitchen sink and the bathroom area. Still may replace all plywood, but will have to finish removing all tile and get the ice pick out.

I need some education on this aparently separate 12v and 110 system (I see city power/battery or 110/12v switches all over this trailer) and multiple bulb types in most fixtures.

It also appears that Andy was correct in my other thread that the patch on the drivers side by the furnace was originally the 12v battery location (under the sink) which is the most damaged, no doubt from a leaking or boiled battery.





Did discover the roof locker lights (kitchen sink light and over the side couch) were replaced at some point with little square plastic lights, so will be keeping an eye out for those. Sink, tub, bath vanity all seem in good shape. Found what I think was the dining room table leg. Bathtub has all the misc small pieces of wood, trim pieces etc.

About half the metal T channel that held dividers to the wall were damaged when the trailer was taken apart, but fortunately I kept all those for the 66 and have matches that will work.

Door has been removed so I can remove the top hinge and take it to a machine shop for hopeful repair (since it appears to be a 1 year specific hinge that is no longer available).

Check out our blog for additional photos/info.
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Old 11-30-2008, 04:27 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3Ms75Argosy View Post
Hey! Welcome back! Well... I've certainly had some good karma come my way via the forums... I do have two stock lights from my '64 TW... since you don't seem in too much of a hurry... could I donate mine to you around Feb or so? Both wedding cakes are intact.. the bases would need to be wired with new sockets (I think).. although the brakes lights still work. I also have three teardrop bases and (I think) lenses... let me know.
I'm in Seattle...
Marc

Marc that would be outstanding. Love to have you over, or we can certainly could certainly come to you. 2 tear drops are original, didn't work but haven't investigated why yet, front ones are all plastic ones that need to be replaced. Feb would be great. (or whenever works!!) We are focusing on weather tight and secure then floor/structure next.
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Old 11-30-2008, 05:47 PM   #32
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Scott, check your p.m. I also couldn't get your blog address to work. Is there a typo?
Take care,
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Old 11-30-2008, 06:32 PM   #33
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woops! Yes all fixed, thanks for the info on the lights Marc, blog address corrected...
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Old 11-30-2008, 09:50 PM   #34
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Scott,
Great blog!

I an betting the the interior wood will turn out to be Birch plywood, probably about 1/4" thick. Most Airstreams used birch from the early 50's to maybe 1970 or so, although some mid 60's International trim level versions may have used walnut ot ar least they were stained dark walnut. Since your trailer has the "Land Yacht" trim level I THINK that a light color birch is correct, but VAC Historian Fred Coldwell may be able to state so for sure.

As for the door hinge, I am not yet 100% convinced that the part that attaches to the body (the part that broke in your case) is not the same for 1962-3-4 (and probably earlier) with just the part on the door changing. It may take close ups of the hinges from various years to confirm. And if confirmed, that may open up your chances of finding a repro, NOS (new orignal stock), or used hinge that might work.
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Old 12-01-2008, 07:08 PM   #35
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Thumbs up Door hinge update

I found today a good solution for the broken door hinge.

After 6 stops at machine shops I found the right one. After looking at getting it welded and a piece made for the missing "loop" this shop said they could water jet a new hinge (the shell half, not the door half) for $50. Would be the same guage stainless and should be identical since the water jet cutter is basically like a CNC router setup. Will even have the rivet holes pre cut exactly in the same place.

If there are any early 60's owners with this hinge that are in need for the body half let me know, I'm having him make me one extra just in case I have the other one break, or likely will replace both and save the old bottom one as a back up.

I don't anticipate after new running gear that this hinge will be a problem but rather have them made and have an extra than pay two set up fees. Should have the new hinges Friday or Monday.
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Old 12-01-2008, 07:19 PM   #36
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Great news! Do you think the blanks for the top and bottom hinges are identical before bending then into shape? Due to the curvature of the body I am certain the top and bottom hinges are bent differently, likely they are mirror images of each other (if the pre bending shape is identical).
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Old 12-01-2008, 08:03 PM   #37
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you're right! I'll call him tomorrow and have him hold off on the second one. Thanks for catching that.
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Old 12-01-2008, 09:51 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goransons View Post
I found today a good solution for the broken door hinge.

After 6 stops at machine shops I found the right one. After looking at getting it welded and a piece made for the missing "loop" this shop said they could water jet a new hinge (the shell half, not the door half) for $50. Would be the same guage stainless and should be identical since the water jet cutter is basically like a CNC router setup. Will even have the rivet holes pre cut exactly in the same place.

If there are any early 60's owners with this hinge that are in need for the body half let me know, I'm having him make me one extra just in case I have the other one break, or likely will replace both and save the old bottom one as a back up.

I don't anticipate after new running gear that this hinge will be a problem but rather have them made and have an extra than pay two set up fees. Should have the new hinges Friday or Monday.
Scott,

Can your machinist make the three pieces which make up this hinge on my 1954 Liner?

By the way, they are mirror image of each other.

Bill
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Old 12-01-2008, 10:00 PM   #39
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I'll forward the pictures to him and see what he thinks. If he can I'm sure he'd need the old ones for templates for the guy that puts it in the computer.
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Old 12-02-2008, 02:26 AM   #40
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Also just an FYI I really want to go back to the stock rear tail lights and am looking for the socks and backing plates for these if anyone runs across them give me a hollar. Right now someone (pre-Rob's ownership) added truck style rubber mount recessed lights. Repair will be necessary but can be done so without being visable whatsoever with stock lights reinstalled.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3Ms75Argosy View Post
Well... I've certainly had some good karma come my way via the forums... I do have two stock lights from my '64 TW...
Just a heads up from another '64 owner...there are at least two different tail lights for '64 trailers. At first glance, they all look alike - but unfortunately they aren't. If you look closely at the lenses, you can read slightly raised letters that will confirm which you have.

There are three lenses I am aware of, two of which are available at VTS:

Our '64 CA-built trailer has the 7" Auto Lamps whereas the Ohio-built '64s we have come across have one of the other smaller lights - I'm not as sure which one because we have the CA. What I do know is that they are all different sizes and are not interchangeable. The Auto-Lamp was only used in 1964 CA-Built models. We have sent an Auto Lamp lense to Steve H.(VTS) along with lots of pictures & dimensions to reproduce them - however, because they are such a limited run, it is not feasible to do so at this time. If there of more of us out there looking for these - maybe it will become more feasible for him to do so.

You can obviously replace a smaller tail light with a larger one, but you can not necessarily replace the bigger one with the smaller ones...they all have different number and placement of screw holes. If you have the Bargman lenses, the base is the same size as a gallon paint can lid and can be made into tail lights with socket parts found at your local auto parts store. I re-built our '56 lights with new socket parts - it's very easy. (See posts #208 & #210)

So, all that to say - double check what you have and what you can replace it with - just because the year is close (like Steve's '63), it may not work. I hope it works out for you both ~

Shari

P.S. If anybody comes across one (or two) of the 7" Auto Lamp lenses they aren't using (are you changing them out for LEDs or ???) - please let me know. Ours are hanging in there, but are cracked at the screw holes and won't last much longer.
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