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goransons · 05-25-2009, 10:00 AM

Flyrc connected me up with a great kitchen sink, sense the old one was really chipped up, rusted and he even had the original faucet which was cool. Definately keep me on your short list on the omni chest, I was just planning on building one but maybe we can work out a deal instead.

I think I have all the light fixtures but appreciate the offer.

Here are some pool pictures. First is day one after the sod was out and digging started. Next few are last weekend before the cover was on and finally the last one is the walk on safety cover so we can have low blood pressure with our 2 1/2 year old out back playing safely.

goransons · 05-27-2009, 09:06 PM

Insurance...

so I've hit a snag. I'm not sure how much I should be insuring this thing for, I mean I know roughly what I have into it, but don't think that equals that it would be worth if I had to seek a replacement.

I have it insured at a basic amount, but for agreed upon value I need an appraisal, but obviously in a "under construction" restoration state, a typical rv appraiser isn't going to do much for us. Is there anyone out on the forums that is an appraiser that could help us set a replacement value, at least where we stand now and what projected we'd be needing to list it when finished?

Zeppelinium · 06-02-2009, 01:32 AM

Scott, I just changed my insurance company and the new company wanted an "appraisal." I wrote a short letter with the purchase price, each significant piece of refurb work, new parts, photos, and my estimated value. I took the letter to the nearest Airstream dealer, who signed it after saying that my value was "too low." The insurance company accepted the dealer's signature as a valid appraisal, even though he had never actually seen the trailer(s).

My other recommendation is to PM 47WEEWIND and ask him. He's the most knowledgeable member when it comes to vintage Airstreams.

Zep

Lumatic · 06-02-2009, 06:17 AM

With guilt and trepidation I am reaching the conclusion I don't know when I will find the time to put 7462 into shape. I think I am ready to consider swaps or sale.

wkerfoot · 06-02-2009, 09:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by goransons

Insurance...

so I've hit a snag. I'm not sure how much I should be insuring this thing for, I mean I know roughly what I have into it, but don't think that equals that it would be worth if I had to seek a replacement.

I have it insured at a basic amount, but for agreed upon value I need an appraisal, but obviously in a "under construction" restoration state, a typical rv appraiser isn't going to do much for us. Is there anyone out on the forums that is an appraiser that could help us set a replacement value, at least where we stand now and what projected we'd be needing to list it when finished?

Scott,

There are two appraisers that I know of. Silverpal2 on this forum, his site is: Car & Aircraft Appraisals by Polk Associates, LLC Wendy at Vintage Aluminum: Appraisals

Bill

goransons · 06-09-2009, 10:44 PM

Thanks Bill, somehow I missed your reply until tonight. I'll check into both of those tomorrow. Thanks again!

utee94 · 06-10-2009, 06:33 AM

Scott, the pool looks fantastic! I forgive you for the lack of updates on your Airstream progress, given the amazing results in your backyard.

-Marcus

66Overlander · 06-12-2009, 10:29 PM

From post #178 in this thread . . .

Quote:

Originally Posted by 66Overlander

Scott,
. . . If you blow up this photo of the trailers in front of the Kremlin, you can see several trailers that have rear window guards of the corrugated fiberglass type. Definitely on the 1st and 5th trailer starting on the left, and maybe on a few others much further to the right.

BUT, I think I may see your trailer in this photo. The 9th trailer from the left (behind the 3 or 4 people standing near the trailers) seems to have the extra rear reflectors that your trailer does (not sure if any others had this feature). The rear window also does not seem quite right. Again, from the color, I'd guess that it is more likely covered with an aluminum panel than a fiberglass cover. It also does not have a bumper mounted spare tire and your trailer has no signs that it ever had one. There is also a dark band across where the top of the rear access door would be, which seems similar to the dark band that can be seen in the Caravan Video photo crossing the Adiatic (but not in the Caravan video photo from India, earlier in the trip?).

Conclusive? Maybe not, but we know your trailer went to Moscow and the visible details seem to fit. The possibility is interesting, if nothing more.

Update: I recently had a chance to see a higher resolution copy of the trailers in from of the Kremlin photo than I've ever seen before. I can now say that without a doubt the 9th trailer in the photos did in fact have the number 8671 on it in that higher resoluton photo!!!! Unfortunately, due to the circumstances I was unable to get a copy that clearly showed that number on your trailer. Maybe another time.

goransons · 06-12-2009, 10:32 PM

Hey Joe thats cool, where'd you get access to the picture? Wondering if I could contact them to see about getting one? Thanks for the update. We're headed out in the tradewind this week, then hope to get back to work on the safari after that.

66Overlander · 06-12-2009, 10:55 PM

Let's just say I have my sources, but if I am ever able to get a high resolution scan. I will immediately forward a copy to you.

goransons · 06-13-2009, 09:36 PM

Good news, jeep is sold, should be picked up next week and then I can order street side sheet metal, to replace that panel, an axle, and get new tires on it. Also be able to get back to the floor, insulation and wiring.

I think I'll use solid rivets on that lower section. Anyone have leads on an inexpensive but well functioning rivet gun and bucking bar setup? I'd rather not make big too investments on this, since I don't ever plan to replace another airstream panel (knock on wood).

Aerowood · 06-13-2009, 10:42 PM

Try E-Bay, 3X is the right size. is Boeing surplas sales still in Reton, I though that I heard it was all on line now but don,t know for sure.

Kip

goransons · 06-23-2009, 06:10 PM

Calling Inland RV tomorrow morning to place the order on my new axle (was going to today but lost track of time!). The axle was so bad that when the PO was hauling it home, a flat resulted in not only having to deflate the new tire to get it on, but they bent the lower skin beyond repair.

I have one more trip out in the 69 week after next then 8671 will be coming back home in the driveway for the new axle, to finish the plywood, and get to stripping the paint off the interior panels so I can insulate, finish wiring etc.

The best news is that with the jeep sold, today I was hanging drywall in the garage, and am setting up a whole woodworking area so I can start this winter in an insulated, heated space building all new cabinets (using the old as templates). Will be absolutely incredible to have a workspace that isn't our driveway. Also the floor will go so much faster now that I can store all the interior parts in the garage while I do it, instead of moving parts every time I start a new panel.

Thanks Joe for the great article, thanks Frank for the kick in the butt on getting back on this thing.

Am officially chasing an omni chest now too, will know in a few days if I got it or not.

utee94 · 06-23-2009, 08:53 PM

Hey Scott, let me know if you don't get it. I have one that might not be going back inside.

goransons · 06-25-2009, 08:37 PM

Well the last two days I've ordered:

3x rivet gun, bucking bars, and rivet sets
solid rivets from aircraft spruce
complete axle from Inland RV and parts to repair my black tank
window hardware, more polishing materials from VTS
next to order, outter skin material.

Here's the project:

#1 cut bolts and drop axle (can't remove tires due to axle being so shot, in fact it was so bad when Rob towed it home, the flat tire resulted in the "need" to bend the wheel well area, that and the patched heater options over the years and the original patched up battery access door have made hamburger out of this side.)

#2 once trailer is up on the new axle, I can start working on this panel (street side lower). I've talked with several people about this panel replacement, feel comfortable doing it, but should I be using .032 or .040. I also need to replace the area rolling down since its been chopped up as well.

#3 The second panel I need to replace is the curbside front, that has two very not period creases. Since the inner panels will be out for floor replacement up front I might as well, plus I have a new rivet gun on the way.

Soooo... .032 or .040, or should it be .032 for the side panel and .040 for the front corner?

Also what rivets should I order for that center panel's steel hold down plate? Most of those are long gone and I want to replace them all.

AND Finally should I measure vey carefully and order the long panel the exact length or order it long? The reason I ask is that I'm not sure the best way to cut the full length and get an absolutely straight, undistorted, smooth edge. Any time I've ever cut sheet metal with tin snips it always bends a little, or leaves traces of each blade length.

Thanks!

greywolf · 06-25-2009, 10:27 PM

As far as cutting the sheet metal, I'd take it to a shop where they can do it with a clean edge. At least very least, they could use a plasma cutter, it leaves a rather smooth edge.

66Overlander · 06-25-2009, 10:34 PM

Scott,
I can't help on aluminum selection. Never done that. You are going way beyond what I would have done. I would have just polished the panels and patched them if necessary under the belief that no one would know whether the "beauty marks" were from the ATW caravan or a later addition.

Good luck, whatever you decide!

3Ms75Argosy · 06-25-2009, 11:22 PM

Scott - if the panel goes under the front / rear sections, I'd buy it long and trim it with electric or pneumatic trimmers (more toys to buy!). I did use some nibblers for the first time when Lee was nice enough to show me how to use them.. . they really cut well, and fairly straight even for a novice like me.

I dunno, that long panel might be easier to work with if it's not too heavy... .032 was stock, I'd go with that. Also, trying to bend heavier stock for the front may be a pain.

The front curved panel... again, I'd buy long. For the rear of that panel, I'd use the cut provided by the panel.. then trim to length for the center section (which is hid under the center panel, correct?).

Lay the old over the new, and use it as a pattern, holes for rivets and all (see Shari's Birdy thread for details).

Wow, you're really going now!

I was able to get the wheels off (but not new ones ON!!) by taking the center cotter nut cover off, and tilting the wheel to get it out. However, if your axle is so high that the wheel wells needed to be dented to get clearance, I guess that may not work.

Thanks for posting again! It gives me a kick in the butt to do mine too!
Marc

goransons · 06-25-2009, 11:47 PM

Thanks Marc, yeah the side panel sits on top on the two end cap ends and tucks under the mid-window panel above it. Those two ends are what scares me a bit cutting. I may just trace them and go buy a fresh pair of sheers just for this project, or after I mark it and do all the drilling and cutting, I may roll it back up and drive it down to the sheet metal shop and have them do those cuts too, thats a good idea 68. After using the nibbler did you have to file or otherwise clean the edge so it wasn't sharp? I'm glad I asked on the guage, I think .032 if it was stock is what I will use, don't want something to hard to bend. The axle is so low that from the side the wheel well edge is even with the baby-moon clips on the rims...

Joe, just gotta do it, or it will bug me, probably more work than it should be but I figure this trailer should never be this taken apart again, so why not fix these little things, especially when its only a few hundred bucks in materials. Plus that is two less panels to polish hours and hours on

utee94 · 06-26-2009, 07:11 AM

Scott, one thing to keep in mind is that some of those edges will tuck under other sheets, so keeping them absolutely clean and straight is not necessary. When I had my inner skins off and insulation out, I was surprised at how crappy some of the cuts were-- but it doesn't matter because it will never show. Obviously there are some edges what will show, and those are the ones to worry about.

I'd buy a pair of electric shears to do your cutting, and I too have seen others recommend nibblers, especially when duplicating an already existing panel. The old panel serves as a template guide, and the nibblers can just copy the shape.

Also, let me know if you are still in need of the Omni Chest.

Keep it up!
-Marcus