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Old 06-21-2020, 09:46 PM   #1
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1971 18' Caravel
Palm Harbor , Florida
Join Date: Jan 2015
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Going with compo$ite subfloor this time

Shouldn't complain, cutting out a 50 year old front section after "someone" left the roof vent open during a storm. Man what a pain to shear all those fasteners.
Will replace with Coosa Bluewater 26. $350 for a 4 X 8 sheet!!! yikes.
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Old 06-22-2020, 01:17 AM   #2
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In a port city like Seattle, you might want to shop around for a better price. Look at marine suppliers rather than conventional hardware stores.. of course the west coast cost might be higher than east coast costs. And with only one sheet, you aren't a bulk purchaser.
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Old 06-22-2020, 07:06 AM   #3
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2003 25' Classic
Zanadude Nebula , Milky Way
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foiled Again View Post
In a port city like Seattle, you might want to shop around for a better price. Look at marine suppliers rather than conventional hardware stores.. of course the west coast cost might be higher than east coast costs. And with only one sheet, you aren't a bulk purchaser.
Yes, for sure.
A friend used it to rebuild the flooring in a classic Chris Craft with excellant results.

Bob
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Old 06-22-2020, 08:30 AM   #4
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1977 31' Excella 500
Spring , Texas
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Awesome! Ordered a bunch of Bluewater 26 for my project. Nope - it isn't cheap

I think it'll be worth the money for not ever having to do it again.
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Old 06-22-2020, 09:29 AM   #5
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1971 18' Caravel
Palm Harbor , Florida
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Composite floor

Living in Florida now, will order from Boat Outfitters here in Florida. Only a 1.5 hours drive away from me, so can save the shipping. Be glad when I'm done. All of it will get covered up with PERGO flooring so no one will know the effort but me...and my wife...and my bank.
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Old 06-22-2020, 02:15 PM   #6
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2006 34' Classic S/O
Fort Worth , Texas
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I like Coosa board even if is expensive because the labor you save the next time around. It saws and drills just like wood. You can glue it with Sikaflex 252. Plywood, even marine plywood, will always be problematic. It should have never been used in floorings and transoms. Calll the manufacturer for the best price and be sure and mention the volume of your needs. Hopefully, enough to do a floor would bring a price discount.
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Old 06-22-2020, 02:24 PM   #7
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1977 31' Excella 500
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Just got my order. Seems like some quality stuff. Definitely lighter than plywood and feels solid.



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Old 06-27-2020, 10:25 AM   #8
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1959 22' Flying Cloud
Escondido , California
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Congrats on getting your material. I'm using Coosa as my subfloor also. A couple of notes from my experience with it.

1. Treat it like fiberglass, which it is.
2. Wear plenty of covering and PPE. Some people are sensitive to it and it can cause a lot of itching. The dust gets everywhere.
3. it sands and cuts incredibly fast and easy. It's easy to take off more than you think you are.
4. It has more compressibility than wood. Screws and elevator bolts can go too deep if you aren't careful.
5. I did not overlap the joints or epoxy the seams but some people do.
6. I filled the top of every elevator bolt and various mistakes with Bondo as the mfg. suggested.

All in all I really like the material. Takes a few extra steps to work with, but they are steps you will only have to do once. I had scrap pieces that I found buried under leaves and mud recently. After the rains they were only discolored. No expansion or rot.

Good luck.
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Old 10-28-2020, 08:18 PM   #9
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1971 18' Caravel
Palm Harbor , Florida
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coosa repair and finish

I usually forget to photo my repairs and finish. Did this time. here they are.
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Old 10-29-2020, 08:18 AM   #10
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1969 18' Caravel
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What satisfaction knowing that you will never have to do that ever again and you have a real quality subfloor that will last for decades to come. Airstream corporate has finally seen the light and is now installing composite subfloors and all models from here out.
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Old 10-29-2020, 09:43 AM   #11
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Zanadude Nebula , Milky Way
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POI...I needed to seal some plywood squares for the AS.
So rather than just painting the surface with epoxy, I heated the squares really hot with my heatgun before applying, sucked that epoxy right in.
Man I love MacGyver.

Bob
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Old 10-29-2020, 01:59 PM   #12
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Thats really interesting, Bob, never heard of doing that. Would it be practical to do a 4 X 8 sheet that way, or would it be too big an area to keep hot with a hair blower/ heat gun? Perhaps doing it at a big bonfire? Or maybe a salamander heater.
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Old 10-29-2020, 05:26 PM   #13
CLOUDSPLITTER "Tahawus"
 
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Believe me I have contemplated the same thing.
If I was to try it say on a 4x8 sheet I would just try a 12" wide section at a time on the 4' side.
If you mix a slow set epoxy I think you could get a very good result. The wood does hold heat pretty well. I didn't see a breakdown in the glue bonding the plywood, but I really didn't overdo the heat, ideally I would have checked with the infra-red but we were at the BIL's place at the time.
BTW...I still roughed the surface and painted the jack squares.

Bob
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Old 10-30-2020, 05:49 AM   #14
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1971 18' Caravel
Palm Harbor , Florida
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penetrating epoxy

Hi Bob, I've had good luck with a watery boat building epoxy called Penetrating Epoxy. Long setup, two part, mixes like water. Might be the bomb with your hot wood technique. I've seen it move through about half of a 3/4" ply while looking at the end grain. I coated the end grain of my flooring with it.

B.
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