The 23FB forum

[FishByFly]

Interested in the approach.

[cajohnson]

I’d love an easier way. We’re on our way home tomorrow and it’s on my list for when we get there. Thanks.

[chrisnancy]

The cabinet above the dinette in our 2018 23FB International has completely broken loose from the ceiling, being held up by wood screws set into the adjacent forward wardrobe and probably the electrical cables feeding the Clarion and DVD player at the aft end. I found holes for five sheet metal screws and two blind rivets inside the cabinet, right above the sliding doors. On the inside bottom of the cabinet, I found the remains of one rivet and two screws (we purchased this Airstream used when it was less than one year old, so I don't know its complete history).

When this happened, we were on the road, but in a position to build a support structure held in place by duct tape so we could continue our trip.
One week ago, I called Jackson Center to get some assistance on this, but haven't heard back.

Curious if this has happened to anyone else? Any suggestions on how to fix the problem? While we have owned this trailer, there has been no trauma that would explain why this would happen (I usually drive under the speed limit and am very careful).

Prior to returning home, we put one of our cell phones inside the trailer and called the other one up front with us. While underway at freeway speeds, we could not hear any sounds indicative of vibration.

[chrisnancy]

Originally Posted by cajohnson

We are about a month into a six week road trip and the step on our 2018 23FB isn't staying completely up in the retracted position when we're on the highway. It comes partway down.
Anyway it looks like the shoulder bolt on the right side has backed out so it's not riding on the shoulder of the bolt but on the threads. Since its installed from the outside of the steps (inside the belly pan) I want to make sure I need to remove those rivets to remove that small black tin piece to get in there and add a little Loctite and cinch that bolt back down.
Anyone know for sure?
CJ

Our shoulder bolt eventually came completely out. While it was unthreading, the steps weren't anchoring well when extended. With the bolt completely out, the steps did not hang down when in the retracted position. However, with the steps extended, the side of the steps with the missing shoulder bolt hung down considerably, rendering the steps useless. I was able to verify the bolt was resting on the inside of the bottom aluminum panel by hitting it with my palm (I could hear the bolt bounce on the bottom of the panel).

The first time this happened, I had the repair done. After picking up the trailer, we went on a one week trip. When returning to our house, the shoulder bolt on the opposite side of the first repair fell out as we lowered the steps in our driveway. The receipt for the previous repair indicated new rivets were installed on the bottom panel on the repaired side. However, these rivets simply didn't look new, as they had an appearance very similar to those on the side that just failed. I concluded there must be a way to reinstall the shoulder bolt without removing the panel.

I have an 18" flexible magnet pickup tool. I inserted it into the space enclosing the shoulder bolt at the point where the shoulder bolt sets when the steps are extended (it is a bit wider there). Within minutes, I had fished it out. Keep in mind you can move the bolt by strategically hitting the bottom of the lower panel with your palm.

The next task was to take apart the side of the steps with the missing shoulder bolt (that side required support as I disassembled it). The step segment to which the shoulder bolt attaches also anchors the top step. Removing the step bolts required a hex socket, but I was able to remove the other bolts with Allen wrenches. Once this segment was detached from the steps, I attached to it the same shoulder bolt I had fished out using blue Loctite (didn't want to make it permanent, as I might need to disassemble the steps at a later date). Then, holding this segment at an angle, I was able to slip the shoulder bolt through the slot at the same point where I fished it out. The steps were then reassembled.

I decided not to use Loctite on the other step assembly bolts, as some of these bolts are removed by relatively small Allen wrenches. I will monitor them periodically and just might reinstall them at a later date using blue Loctite.

If you obtain a schematic of the steps, it shows a nut should be on the end of the shoulder bolts. As there isn't a significant amount of thread available for a nut, it would need to be one that isn't too deep, ideally self locking. Not certain why they aren't used.

Your situation sounds a bit different, but you should be able to disassemble the steps as I described, slip out the aforementioned segment with the shoulder bolt attached to it, then finish the repair. It actually would be a bit easier, as there would be no need to fish out the bolt.

Note the threads of the shoulder bolt were not damaged while it was unthreading. Between the shoulder part of the bolt and the threaded part, there is a an area that has no threads. I suspect that part of the bolt essentially became the shoulder until the bolt completely fell out.

[Fair_Enough]

So, here's a FYI on my 23FB (twin DIY conversion) about tongue weight.

A near complete list of mods: twin bed conversion, jackknife sofa, elongated toilet, vessel porcelain sink, 5 Renogy Eclipse panels, Trimetric, a single 170Ah Renogy Li battery, 3000w inverter -

Without WDH hardware of any kind, TW was 575 - 580# (full fresh, propane, empty holding tanks)

Empty the fresh tank (39 gallons - 323#) and TW is 510... so 65 lighter on the tongue and about 258 lighter on the tires without cool clear water.

Hensley Cub weighed 160#

I reluctantly put up with a RVSA tech almost all day, whom I had to lead by the hand when it came to my cutoff switches and 50 amp panel converted to 30A main and sub... really all things 12 volt, confused him. In the process my Sony radio is no longer working. I shared this with him and he said he has liability insurance but might not cover since the cutoff switches were not installed by RV certified tech... I am biting my tongue for the time being. An amateur installation kept the radio working for 3 years, while 6 hours with a certified tech left it Inop.
FE

[51hunter]

Every year I winterize the water system with air pressure. Including the 12vdc water pump. I made a cheater hose I connect to the input side and run the pump with 20# pressure. Works well.

Well I break out the trailer to prep for a trip and always pressurize the city water system to check for any leaks. All's well over night. I then run city water through the system and half fill the fresh water tank. I let the city pressure drain to zero and switch on the pump.

Nothing running. Checked fuse OK, check wiring OK, What's left the switch? I pull the panel out and find that one of the wires to the switch had fallen off.

Figured out why, there is a bundle of wires in that wall and the weight of them hanging and bouncing was to much for the connector to hold. So after reconnecting and having power I took a small loop bracket and a short (1/2") screw and attached it to the wall behind the switch panel. Then cable tied the bundle up to remove the weight hanging problem.

AIRSTREAM are you listening simple $.50 fix.

[Barretta2]

Glad you started this. My 2012 23D FC has a broken burner on my stove. The wiring just snapped off. Has anyone had this occur and, if so, how did you repair? Thanks.

[RFP]

Originally Posted by Barretta2

Glad you started this. My 2012 23D FC has a broken burner on my stove. The wiring just snapped off. Has anyone had this occur and, if so, how did you repair? Thanks.

Hi, Barretta2... are you aware that there is a dedicated 23D thread? Here 'tis: https://www.airforums.com/forums/f14...ad-166085.html

[cajohnson]

Chrisnancy...
Thanks for your detailed instructions on the step repair. Very much appreciated. Just got home to Montana after a month on the road and as soon as the rain stops I’ll dig into the job. Thanks again.
cj

[Rocket53]

I need help with up the hitch setup. Truck is F150. Trailer is 23FB that has been modified to twin beds and 250 watts of solar on the roof. I weighed the truck first pretty well loaded for camping. Trailer is loaded for camping, but no fresh water and tanks empty
Steer Axle- 3280
Drive Axle- 2980
Total WT 6260

W/O WDH
Steer Axle- 2980
Drive Axle- 3860
Trailer Axle- 4960
Total WT 11800

W/WDH
Steer Axle- 3180
Drive Axle- 3600
Trailer Axle- 5040
Total WT - 11820

Does this setup look OK? Should I add more weight to the steer axle? Thoughts please.

Mike

[Jdubya]

It seems each year when I winterize I am doing so as a snow storm is moving in - hurrying home to blow out the lines in freezing cold weather. For 2020 I forgot to open the shower line and now here I am at Lake MacConaughy in NE with a shower leaking all over the place. Ideas? There is an Ace Hardware not to far from here. I have the panel open and there was/is water leaking. Never fails!

[chrisnancy]

Originally Posted by Rocket53

I need help with up the hitch setup. Truck is F150. Trailer is 23FB that has been modified to twin beds and 250 watts of solar on the roof. I weighed the truck first pretty well loaded for camping. Trailer is loaded for camping, but no fresh water and tanks empty
Steer Axle- 3280
Drive Axle- 2980
Total WT 6260

W/O WDH
Steer Axle- 2980
Drive Axle- 3860
Trailer Axle- 4960
Total WT 11800

W/WDH
Steer Axle- 3180
Drive Axle- 3600
Trailer Axle- 5040
Total WT - 11820

Does this setup look OK? Should I add more weight to the steer axle? Thoughts please.

Mike

We use a Blue Ox load redistribution hitch, which transfers weight from the rear truck axle to the front truck axle at the expense of putting more load on the trailer axle. It also provides sway protection. Another benefit: with the trailer and our F-150 aligned, I can usually open the tail gate all the way.

[chrisnancy]

Originally Posted by chrisnancy

We use a Blue Ox load redistribution hitch, which transfers weight from the rear truck axle to the front truck axle at the expense of putting more load on the trailer axle. It also provides sway protection. Another benefit: with the trailer and our F-150 aligned, I can usually open the tail gate all the way.

Sorry, just realized what WDH means. Not certain about the change in weight distribution before and after the WDH, but I would expect more of a change. We were told to adjust the WDH so the trailer was the same height above the ground at the front and the back. With this adjustment, the angle between the truck and the trailer at the hitch is near zero.

[Fair_Enough]

Well friends, my 23FB has been sold to a nice Army Captain who plans to full time in it as she serves our country. I salute her and I salute all my friends and acquaintances on this group. I have learned alot and hopefully have helped someone along the way.
Fair well.

[SimRunner]

Originally Posted by Fair_Enough

Well friends, my 23FB has been sold to a nice Army Captain...

Hoping you stick around on the forum with your wealth of information.

[SeaJim]

We’ve read through many threads on bike rack options. The Fama racks we’ve seen don’t impress. Notwithstanding the often noted objections to rear hitch mounted configurations, this seems like the best option. If anyone has *experience* with a rear hitch setup on a 23FB we would appreciate any info on what you did and how it has worked for you. Thanks!

[MikeAnkorage]

CoVid weirdness kept me away for months! Plug in shore power and can’t get refr or microwave to work. Dig into the distribution panel beneath the fridge. With batteries in storage, in use, or with shore power plugged in, the 30 A fuse blows immediately.

I hoped to begin troubleshooting and removed all of the 15A fuses, hoping to isolate one circuit. The 30A blows right away. I turn off all of the circuit breakers to the left and the 30A blows right away. Dang!

We are on a quick 2 week trip with no extra time to schedule a diagnosis, so I’m hoping that turning to this may help. TIA. BTW in South Tahoe for a few days, then to Kings Canyon, then Morro Bay befiore heading back to Vegas for storage.

Any idea as? TIA

[Fair_Enough]

Originally Posted by MikeAnkorage

CoVid weirdness kept me away for months! Plug in shore power and can’t get refr or microwave to work. Dig into the distribution panel beneath the fridge. With batteries in storage, in use, or with shore power plugged in, the 30 A fuse blows immediately.

I hoped to begin troubleshooting and removed all of the 15A fuses, hoping to isolate one circuit. The 30A blows right away. I turn off all of the circuit breakers to the left and the 30A blows right away. Dang!

We are on a quick 2 week trip with no extra time to schedule a diagnosis, so I’m hoping that turning to this may help. TIA. BTW in South Tahoe for a few days, then to Kings Canyon, then Morro Bay befiore heading back to Vegas for storage.

Any idea as? TIA

I assume you are saying the main 30 amp breaker trips. Breakers protect like fuses but are not fuses. Removing fuses (to the right) has nothing to do with a breaker tripping.

Battery in "use" or "store", then has precious little to do with breakers. Other than, the converter will draw more power (120vac) while charging when in "use" mode.

Are you saying while plugged in to shore power, you turned off all breakers, other than the 30 amp main and the main trips?

My next step would be to actually remove all the other breakers and see if the main trips.

If it does that would point to a bad 30 amp breaker. Either that or there is something in the load center grounding out the feed rails to the other breakers, which is very unlikely. Assuming no rodent nest in there.

Unplug from shore power while hands are in the distribution or load center. Do your thing, then plug back in for testing.

Let us know what you find.
FE

[MikeAnkorage]

No, This a 30A fuse, not a breaker.

Wiring diagram on page 8-19 in lower LH corner shows the Parallax 7355 controller. In the top row, the fuse on the right. M8 controls the 12 V system. No idea where to begin looking. All worked fine before it was stored pre-Covid., Lights and roof fans work fine on battery charge. Battery pack charges fine from the tow vehicle. I would REALLY like to have the fridge work, but even on propane, I get nothing. Weird.

[Fair_Enough]

Originally Posted by MikeAnkorage

No, This a 30A fuse, not a breaker.

Wiring diagram on page 8-19 in lower LH corner shows the Parallax 7355 controller. In the top row, the fuse on the right. M8 controls the 12 V system. No idea where to begin looking. All worked fine before it was stored pre-Covid., Lights and roof fans work fine on battery charge. Battery pack charges fine from the tow vehicle. I would REALLY like to have the fridge work, but even on propane, I get nothing. Weird.

Microwave only uses 120vac, no DC required (my confusion when you said MW doesn't work). No shore power, no MW.
Fridge does requires 12vdc even when running on propane.
From memory, since I replaced Parallax and entire load center... there are 2 30amp fuses. They are there to prevent damage if battery positive and negative are reversed. Where batteries disconnected and reconnected... did you reverse the leads? That would immediately blow one or both 30 amp fuses.

The other possibility is the crappy Parallax has bit the dust
FE