The 23FB forum

[PKI]

So, toiletries go in a ballistic nylon travel kit bag. Easy to carry and organizes everything. The soap and similar liquid products go in a bucket under the bathroom sink - double containment to prevent spills. Anything that goes in the shower is contained in a plastic box to protect the finish.

We don't generally have a problem with condensation in the bathroom since we always run the vent fans. After seeing the Fantastic Fan vent covers when we were at JC, we installed a pair. Lets the vents run when you need them with no rain sensor interruption. Future upgrade is to change the vent switches to bidirectional versions so the vents will blow in as well as bsuck out. Then we can boost ventilation by having each set opposite depending on where we want fresh air.

If the Fantastic Fans are not enough, we have O2cool, FD10006AU Smart Power Recharge Fans. They get used anywhere we need more ventilation and provide a quiet but steady drone for canceling out night time noise so we can sleep. They run on 110v, internal rechargeable batteries and disposable batteries, which are all available as required. Got a USB port too.

The double sinks get packed for travel. The oven is storing light weight soft items like aluminum foil pans, plastic glasses and paper plates. Easy to remove when the muffin assembly line is in operation.

We made a padded bag to protect the microwave plate. It goes in between hanging clothes in the small closet to protect it a bit more when traveling. There is also a foam and cardboard wine shipping box tucked behind the door in that closet. Wine is more important than clothes, right?

Travel safe - those dump valves are low - and go for it. There are smiles out there to find. Pat

[PKI]

Pictures -

Top Left is the beginning of the Million dollar highway - 550 South out of Montrose to Durango - this is just below Ouray where the tight and twisty section starts. Perfect for a 23 rig.

Top Right is HW 50, a much better route than I80 if you are into new routes. If you look way in the distance you can see the wind mills making volts, or maybe not.

Bottom Left is the Ely NV KOA. Sometimes you get surrounded by the SOBs. But we had AS backup in the row behind and another a few spaces to the Right. Everyone had a story. It was a very sociable group. We learned a lot about the Balloon Fiesta that night and the seed was planted.

Bottom Right is Morefield campground in Mesa Verde. The neighbors came to visit on a daily basis. Yes, the people were nice too.

Travel is great. We need to get back out there. Pat

[Steamy1]

Fbastian mentioned replacing tanks for aluminum to reduce weight. Don't see the advantage here as there is very little tongue weight on this model.

Happy camping all. Dave[/QUOTE]

I replaced the steel tanks with aluminum to offset the added weight of the 6-volt LifeLine batteries. I weighed the axles on our Tundra and trailer and was shocked to learn I was 400 pounds over the GVWR. So I am very conscious of weight. I have tried to mitigate the overage by installing load range E tires and rear spring helpers, but it does not alter the fact that I am over, which is why we are starting to consider an F250. The Tundra has been a great vehicle, but as I have found out, it is still a light truck and has limitations, even with a 23FB.

The intent of this post is not to start another discussion on axle weights; just wanted to comment on the weight concerns and the background on switching to aluminum tanks.

[GettinAway]

Interesting about your Tundra. I've seen where guys are pulling a lot bigger trailers than 23FBs with Tundras. I've never even bothered to weigh mine. What year is your Tundra? No way do I want a 3/4 ton truck. I've toyed with the idea of switching to a 25FB, thinking I could still pull with the Tundra. How much do those batteries weigh?

[Steamy1]

Following are the weights I am looking at:

Axle Gross Axle Weight per sticker Actual weight port of entry

Front 4000 3350
Rear 4150 4300

Gross Vehicle Weight 7200 7650

This shows that the vehicle is overloaded by 450 pounds. Note that the published GVW is less than the combined front and rear axle weight ratings.

23FB weight 6000 5200

Trailer was 800 below its GVW.

Conditions:

• myself
• 1-wife
• 1-50lb dog
• full fuel
• Snugtop topper
• 2-LaFuma folding chairs
• campfire in a can
• Weber BBQ
• 18-gal waste tote
• small tool box
• Fastway wheel chocks
• Renology 100w portable solar panel
• Trailer was packed for a trip, with empty waste tanks and about 10 gallons of fresh water, full propane tanks.

[PKI]

Certainly does not sound like you have an excessive load out.

Looks like 4000+4150=8150 gross for TV and loaded it is 3350+4300=7650, which is an extra 150 on the rear and lots of room on the front. Am I confusing the numbers or is there a typo in the post?

Also, do you have unhitched TV and coach weights? Does the 5200 for the trailer include the tongue weight and what is that portion? Pat

[Bobbo]

The truck GVWR is not merely the front GAWR and the rear GAWR added together. There are other factors that can reduce that number, brakes, suspension, etc.

In this case his front GAWR of 4000 and rear GAWR of 4150 does not give his truck a GVWR of 8150. The truck has a GVWR of 7200.

[Steamy1]

Our Tundra is a CrewMax and the door sticker post a payload of 1295 lbs.

I think this just gets used up quickly, when adding on step bars, topper, camping gear, hitch and weight distribution, etc.

I do need to weigh the front and rear axles without the trailer and see where I am at, but I don't think it will change the fact that I am over the gross vehicle weight. I may be able to adjust the hitch and transfer some of the rear weight to the front axle, but again, it does not increase the GVW.

Which is why we are looking at an F250 gas, with 2931 lbs of payload. As the saying goes "better to have a suit too large than too small".

We love our Tundra, but I don't want to feel like we can't bring what we want on our trips. I don't feel like I can bring the generator along with the numbers we have currently.

[GettinAway]

I might already be overloaded. We take a Honda 2000 with us, plus the kayak on rear racks. We have a base model double cab though. Nothing too fancy. No running boards, sunroofs, power seats, etc.. I have to admit, I see thread after thread of folks arguing about weight ratings of tires, axles, diesels, hitches, one ton trucks, mini vans, I thought I had just over bought with a Tundra and a 23FB, so I wasn't too concerned. It pulls, stops, and handles it so well. Might have to do a bit of research.

[Steamy1]

You probably have more payload than I do. The best way to find out is weight the axles and see the actual numbers.

I agree that the trailer and truck feel stable and is a pleasure to drive. I see a lot of light tow vehicles packed and towing bigger trailers than we have.

Keeping all the vehicle and trailer components well-maintained helps.

The one thing that I am curious about is that the door sticker does say that the ratings are based on using "P" tires. If upgraded to load range "E", does this affect the overall load rating?

Maybe its best to be dumb and happy.

[Troutboy]

Originally Posted by Steamy1

Fbastian mentioned replacing tanks for aluminum to reduce weight. Don't see the advantage here as there is very little tongue weight on this model.

Happy camping all. Dave

I replaced the steel tanks with aluminum to offset the added weight of the 6-volt LifeLine batteries. I weighed the axles on our Tundra and trailer and was shocked to learn I was 400 pounds over the GVWR. So I am very conscious of weight. I have tried to mitigate the overage by installing load range E tires and rear spring helpers, but it does not alter the fact that I am over, which is why we are starting to consider an F250. The Tundra has been a great vehicle, but as I have found out, it is still a light truck and has limitations, even with a 23FB.

The intent of this post is not to start another discussion on axle weights; just wanted to comment on the weight concerns and the background on switching to aluminum tanks.[/QUOTE]



How much weight do you actually save? I think most of the weight is in the propane when full. I looked at this and I think I calculated 5 pound difference per tank?

[PKI]

Steamy - suggest you PM Richw46. He has some involvement with Toyota as a contractor and may be able to answer your question or refer you to the Toyota technical support group that could provide info.

It seems logical that different options would add weight to the vehicle and reduce available payload, but it is not logical that those options would reduce the capacity of the axles and gross weight capacity. Your suggestion that it may be related to tire and I suppose wheel capacity does seem possible. Suppose there could be an upgrade in capacity related to four wheel drive as well. Bet Tundra owners everywhere would like to understand why the gross weight capacity is reduced by options. Pat

[wtdogg]

Very interested in lifting my 23FB. Where should I purchase the Dexter lift kit, and where have people taken their trailer to have it installed?

EasyStart going in next week, and 55 Amp Converter Replacement Kit has worked wonders for my second set of batteries! Still need to install a new frig fan.

Anyone install the bike rack on tongue or rear?

[wtdogg]

What wireless back up camera do you use?

[Steamy1]

Good Morning,
This is in response to previous posts questions and comments;

• Troutboy-you are correct that the weight savings may only be about 5 pounds a tank, but I was looking at any savings. This just about offset the installation of the LifeLine 6-volts batteries. I am even considering not fully filling the tanks to further reduce weight.
• PKI-thanks for the lead. I will send a PM as you suggested to try to gain more insight to the weight capacity issue.
• Wtdogg-I ordered the lift kit directly from Dexter for the #10 axle. the kit includes parts to lift two (2) axles. I have yet to install as I have to find someone I am comfortable with that knows how to properly lift and Airstream. I tried a mobile RV service last summer but he wanted to lift the axle on the tube. I stopped him and we parted ways. I installed the kit on our 19' Bambi, but did not really want to tackle the double axle. I installed the Voyager wireless camera on the 23FN.

Hope this helps. Thanks everyone!

[GettinAway]

I know of one other member here that did the lift on their 23FB, they are from Oregon, I believe Portland area. Their local axle dealer did a great job, at a reasonable price. I plan on getting my 23FB lifted there on the way to Alaska, in a few years. Until then, I'm going to get by with just the 14" to 15" tire and wheel increase.
I'm also just going to continue to pull with the Tundra. It's been fine for years. I guess ignorance is bliss in my case..
one of the nice things about a 23FB.. Not all that much that needs changed.

[Troutboy]

Here is a video on the install. Not a 23FB, but still a dual axel. I have a 23D and may try this as I haven't found anyone around me that would do it.

https://youtu.be/lsdveR_gPIA

[GettinAway]

Originally Posted by Troutboy

Here is a video on the install. Not a 23FB, but still a dual axel. I have a 23D and may try this as I haven't found anyone around me that would do it.

https://youtu.be/lsdveR_gPIA

I had seen another video, that was not this well done. This one is much better. Thanks for posting it. Still not sure I want to tackle it myself. Not much room under my trailer..

[Troutboy]

Agree. To me the alignment of the axel, side to side concerns me. Seems like it may be difficult to get that perfect. If it is off, will it impact tracking of the trailer?

[NoResults]

I had my lift kit installed an authorized dealer for Dexter. This company specializes in truck, trailer and rv repairs and service. The total cost to me was $378.00. This was done about a year ago. I also went to 15" tires and wheels.

My main objective was driveway clearance when backing up into my rv driveway.

Dave