The 23FB forum

[MikeAnkorage]

Thanks. I did kill the batteries with neglect during Covid in another state. Red to red and black to black to install the new ones. Batteries charge fine from the tow vehicle and rub the lights and roof fans fine.

Didn’t know the Parallax was prone to failure. Damn. No refer for the rest of the trip, I guess. Thanks for the help!

[chrisnancy]

Originally Posted by Rocket53

I need help with up the hitch setup. Truck is F150. Trailer is 23FB that has been modified to twin beds and 250 watts of solar on the roof. I weighed the truck first pretty well loaded for camping. Trailer is loaded for camping, but no fresh water and tanks empty
Steer Axle- 3280
Drive Axle- 2980
Total WT 6260

W/O WDH
Steer Axle- 2980
Drive Axle- 3860
Trailer Axle- 4960
Total WT 11800

W/WDH
Steer Axle- 3180
Drive Axle- 3600
Trailer Axle- 5040
Total WT - 11820

Does this setup look OK? Should I add more weight to the steer axle? Thoughts please.

Mike

Looked at this a bit closer. With no trailer connected, your truck weighs 6260 pounds. With the trailer connected, and no load redistribution, it weighs 6840 (2980+3860), an increase of 580. I believe this is the tongue weight of your trailer.

When using a weight distribution hitch, my 2018 23FB manual states the tongue weight should be equally distributed between the steering axle, the drive axle, and the trailer axles (one third each), which means each should have a weight increase of about 193 pounds when the hitch properly redistributes the tongue load. For your rig, using the truck axle weights with no trailer attached:

Steer axle: 3280 + 193 = 3473
Drive axle: 2980 + 193 = 3173
Trailer axles: 4960 + 193 = 5153
Total weight - 11779

So, the steer axle needs a weight increase of 293 pounds (3437-3180), the drive axle needs to lose 427 pounds (3173-3600), while the trailer axle requires a 113 pound increase (5153-5040).

What the WDH does is to move the load from the drive axle to the steering and trailer axles. Currently, I suspect the rear of your tow vehicle is sagging a bit under the load and the tongue is at an angle with respect to the tow vehicle. With the WDH properly setup, you should have very little sagging and almost no angle.

I don't think it is possible to precisely redistribute the loads using the HDW hitch as explained in my AS manual, so my calculations are likely inaccurate (for example, perhaps less than 427 needs to be redistributed from the drive axle to eliminate the sag). I did try some moment calculations using my F-150 and 23FB geometry, which did indicate less than 427 needs to be moved away from the drive axle, but I'm not certain of their accuracy.

Feedback on this would be appreciated, especially if there are any errors.

[chrisnancy]

Originally Posted by MikeAnkorage

CoVid weirdness kept me away for months! Plug in shore power and can’t get refr or microwave to work. Dig into the distribution panel beneath the fridge. With batteries in storage, in use, or with shore power plugged in, the 30 A fuse blows immediately.

I hoped to begin troubleshooting and removed all of the 15A fuses, hoping to isolate one circuit. The 30A blows right away. I turn off all of the circuit breakers to the left and the 30A blows right away. Dang!

We are on a quick 2 week trip with no extra time to schedule a diagnosis, so I’m hoping that turning to this may help. TIA. BTW in South Tahoe for a few days, then to Kings Canyon, then Morro Bay befiore heading back to Vegas for storage.

Any idea as? TIA

I have a few thoughts. I believe the 120V and 12V systems are basically independent, with the converter the only couple. When the refrig is on propane, the 12V propane igniter should work, as your interior lights work. Good idea to make sure the refrig is on and set to use propane. Also check the 12V fuses. Sometimes a fuse can blow with it not being very apparent.

In my trailer, I can hear the periodic ticking sound of the refrig igniter lighting the propane when the refrig has gotten too warm. Have you opened the exterior lower refrig access door to make sure everything looks normal?

Sounds like all 120V devices are not working in your trailer, as the 30A main fuse blows immediately after connecting to shore power. Does the converter have a separate fuse? It should be fairly simple to pull the load center (converter, etc) out from under the refrig to at least do a visual inspection. Make sure shore power is not connected if you do this.

[MikeAnkorage]

Originally Posted by chrisnancy

I have a few thoughts. I believe the 120V and 12V systems are basically independent, with the converter the only couple. When the refrig is on propane, the 12V propane igniter should work, as your interior lights work. Good idea to make sure the refrig is on and set to use propane. Also check the 12V fuses. Sometimes a fuse can blow with it not being very apparent.

In my trailer, I can hear the periodic ticking sound of the refrig igniter lighting the propane when the refrig has gotten too warm. Have you opened the exterior lower refrig access door to make sure everything looks normal?

Sounds like all 120V devices are not working in your trailer, as the 30A main fuse blows immediately after connecting to shore power. Does the converter have a separate fuse? It should be fairly simple to pull the load center (converter, etc) out from under the refrig to at least do a visual inspection. Make sure shore power is not connected if you do this.

I was able to find a competent guy on the road. Not that all of you are not competent, but emails are not a back and forth conversation while trying, testing, and measuring parameters. The converter is fried. Most likely I fried it while trying to check and replace the dead batteries from the covid storage time period.

So I'm headed to the Airstream dealer to pick up a new "lower unit" of the Parallax converter. I doubt I'll get it installed and checked until I'm back with the AS in early September. It's been tough for Alaskans to travel without a fridge, A/C, µwave, etc. We got by with supporting lots of local economies eating out often. And I sure bought a slew of 30A fuses.

Thanks to all of you for the guidance and troubleshooting. I know I would like to replace the converter with a multi-stage unit and I may have one with me from now on so that if another Parallax unit fritzes out, I'll be able to carry on.

[Rob Edgerton]

Originally Posted by MikeAnkorage

I was able to find a competent guy on the road. Not that all of you are not competent, but emails are not a back and forth conversation while trying, testing, and measuring parameters. The converter is fried. Most likely I fried it while trying to check and replace the dead batteries from the covid storage time period.



So I'm headed to the Airstream dealer to pick up a new "lower unit" of the Parallax converter. I doubt I'll get it installed and checked until I'm back with the AS in early September. It's been tough for Alaskans to travel without a fridge, A/C, µwave, etc. We got by with supporting lots of local economies eating out often. And I sure bought a slew of 30A fuses.



Thanks to all of you for the guidance and troubleshooting. I know I would like to replace the converter with a multi-stage unit and I may have one with me from now on so that if another Parallax unit fritzes out, I'll be able to carry on.

I would suggest you call Randy at Bestconverter.com. His knowledge and service is legendary. He carries the Progressive Dynamics line of converters which are better than the OEM equipment, and he can provide advice on installation, etc.

[Rocket53]

Thanks for your reply. I posted this also in the Hitch forum and received multiple responses. I added another washer which now equals 6 to the hitch head. I'll take it across the scales and see what i have.

[MikeAnkorage]

Originally Posted by Rob Edgerton

I would suggest you call Randy at Bestconverter.com. His knowledge and service is legendary. He carries the Progressive Dynamics line of converters which are better than the OEM equipment, and he can provide advice on installation, etc.

Thanks. Already bought the one from the dealer in Vegas. He was convinced it's a far better unit and knew the specifics of why the previous model was prone to failure. Turns out this new model is a multi-step converter, so it will likely be more robust. I'll let you know in September what we find.

[DigitalNomad]

Hey Folks, I'm wondering if anyone else has had this problem with their corner shower panels? It looks like the shower panels were installed by the night shift at the factory as I have found several issues resulting in numerous cracks penetrating all the way through the plastic panels and rendering the shower unusable. I believe the plastic shower panels are made of acrylic.

The most obvious, and least arguable, error is the location of the showerhead hanger. This hanger is supposed to be attached, high up on the shower wall, using two screws which penetrate the plastic wall then fasten into an L-shaped wooden support (p/n 967273-01-3). In my case, the hanger is mounted several inches below the wooden support. The two screws never engage with any wooden structure. The same is true for the clothesline bracket which is also solely attached to the plastic shower wall.

A bit more nuanced, but more severe, is the location of the L-shaped wooden support. The support should be attached close to the shower door. In my case there is a gap of several inches gap. This extraneous translation, away from the shower door, places the right edge of the support further under the corner of the shower than expected creating an inward bulge of the plastic. Three cracks are propagating from this bulge and penetrate completely through the plastic shower wall.

With the wooden support out of location the screws used to attach the left edge of the shower wall have nowhere to hold. Numerous holes are evident along the left edge of the shower although only about half of them are populated with screws. No screws engage with the wooden support.

Is there an upgrade I can have done here -- fiberglass shower panels, etc? Can you recommend someone that can help me out (preferably near Southern California)? Other thoughts? Thank-you.

[Coyotetrack]

Hello Folks—

I've been reading so much about these Dexter lift kits and trying to decide if it's an installation I can do myself or is it worth having the pros do the work. After watching a nicely detailed YouTube video on the installation I decided that I'll leave it to the pros. Yesterday I pulled the trailer out of storage and towed it to the dealer service garage at Airstream of Santa Barbara. I didn't have time to wash it so I was a bit embarrassed over how bad it looked.

They quoted me $950 for materials and labor. I picked up the trailer today and pulled it back home, which entailed traveling through a very windy Gaviota Pass. With the additional 3" of height there was no difference felt in cross winds. I like the way the trailer looks with the lift and on top of everything, the service department gave it a good wash.

If you need any Airstream service in the Santa Barbara area, I strongly recommend them. They are very busy these days and their schedule is about 3-4 weeks out.

If you are wondering why I got the lift, it was for two reasons: a steep driveway and I like to boondock.

Thank you and I hope you all are doing swell.

Jim
2020 F250 XLT FX4 6.7L Diesel
2017 23FB

[chrisnancy]

Curious if any of you have had the problems with the wardrobe drawers I've had.

When underway on a trip, the top drawer came out and smashed on the floor, slightly damaging the floor and pushing one side of the drawer handle into the drawer front. I was able to repair the drawer front with epoxy putty so the damage was not obvious. To prevent the drawer from coming out again, I used barrel latches that matched the drawer handles (see the first picture).

Subsequently, the orange clips under the drawer would no longer attach themselves to the drawer slides. Purchased new clips, but that didn't resolve the problem. I had to put 1/8" shims between the clips and the front of the drawer on both drawers to effectively move the clips closer to the slides before the clips would attach.

The second picture shows the wardrobe door and the wardrobe shelf. Notice the angle between them. The third picture shows the front of one of the drawers from the inside. Notice the angle between the door front and the door body. To fit the wardrobe cabinet into position, I'm fairly certain the bottom of the left (forward) cabinet side was cut instead of the top (cutting the top would have been more difficult due to the curve). The cabinet parallelogramed when slid into position, resulting in the forward slides being lower than the aft slides. After the cabinet was installed, they must have slid in the door bodies, then put on the drawer fronts using clamps to position them before they were screwed to the drawer body (this can be done one drawer at a time, with the other drawer removed).

If anyone has the opportunity, please remove one of the drawers and look to see if its front is at an angle with its body (can't help but be curious). I probably never would have noticed this if the drawer hadn't come out when underway. However, the top drawer's left sides does rub a bit on the cabinet side when opening and closing.

[chrisnancy]

Originally Posted by DigitalNomad

Hey Folks, I'm wondering if anyone else has had this problem with their corner shower panels? It looks like the shower panels were installed by the night shift at the factory as I have found several issues resulting in numerous cracks penetrating all the way through the plastic panels and rendering the shower unusable. I believe the plastic shower panels are made of acrylic.

The most obvious, and least arguable, error is the location of the showerhead hanger. This hanger is supposed to be attached, high up on the shower wall, using two screws which penetrate the plastic wall then fasten into an L-shaped wooden support (p/n 967273-01-3). In my case, the hanger is mounted several inches below the wooden support. The two screws never engage with any wooden structure. The same is true for the clothesline bracket which is also solely attached to the plastic shower wall.

A bit more nuanced, but more severe, is the location of the L-shaped wooden support. The support should be attached close to the shower door. In my case there is a gap of several inches gap. This extraneous translation, away from the shower door, places the right edge of the support further under the corner of the shower than expected creating an inward bulge of the plastic. Three cracks are propagating from this bulge and penetrate completely through the plastic shower wall.

With the wooden support out of location the screws used to attach the left edge of the shower wall have nowhere to hold. Numerous holes are evident along the left edge of the shower although only about half of them are populated with screws. No screws engage with the wooden support.

Is there an upgrade I can have done here -- fiberglass shower panels, etc? Can you recommend someone that can help me out (preferably near Southern California)? Other thoughts? Thank-you.

Have you called Jackson Center about this problem?

In your description, are you talking about the same L-shaped support, or are they different?

It would be helpful if you clarified your pictures. I suspect the second is looking at the lower section of the shower, with the shower door removed?

[SimRunner]

Originally Posted by chrisnancy

...If anyone has the opportunity, please remove one of the drawers and look to see if its front is at an angle with its body (can't help but be curious). I probably never would have noticed this if the drawer hadn't come out when underway. However, the top drawer's left sides does rub a bit on the cabinet side when opening and closing.

The drawer fronts on my 2014 International Serenity are all straight.

[leedav]

Anyone have noisy water pump / air in the system issues? I run the water all kinds of ways to quiet it and next trip it happens again. Dealer has done much work chasing leaks in the past. Does this sound like another leak?

[leedav]

Also anyone have that microwave convection oven crap out after 2 years?

[Fair_Enough]

Posting a couple of pics for a friend. Yes, I am still lurking about.

FE

[Fair_Enough]

Originally Posted by leedav

Also anyone have that microwave convection oven crap out after 2 years?

The one in my old 23FB... I could never get the convection to work at all. Oh, wait it doesn't have that ability.
FE

[Bigboote]

A while back, when running the AC a lot, I noticed a water spot on the floor. Living in the Rocky Mountains in Canada we don't get to run our AC much.
I have been busy stripping out the old chalking off the roof and cleaning the AC coils. In doing this I had no idea the AC shroud was as sun-damaged and brittle as it was. Looks like a new one is on its way as ICON seems to have one that fits on Amazon.
While being busy doing things that I wish I didn't even touch. ($$$Ca-ching) I decided to pull the inside cover off of my AC and see if I could see anywhere that an AC leak would be coming from.
In pulling off the interior cover panel of my Dometic 630515.331D (Photo 1 I found that the drain hose and connection had been heavily gooped up with a sealant of some kind. (Photo 2) I have read about the connection on the reservoir becoming cracked. The sealant appeared to have some discolouration that indicated further leaking.

I took a small screwdriver and some needle nose plyers and began to remove as much of the chalking as I could. Upon the removal of most of the material, it became evident to me that the flange around the outlet around the drain hose was cracked. (Photo 3)

Given the position of it under the AC unit and my lack of skill in this area, I am thinking of just resealing it with more reliable material. I don't think I will just rechalk it again as it is evident that plan didn't work.

So I am looking for some guidance.

Since there is no real water pressure here, My options would be to install a fibreglass patch over the area. It would be messy and a bit time-consuming. The other is to use something like an epoxy plumbers product.

Any input would be helpful.

[Fair_Enough]

Originally Posted by Bigboote

A while back, when running the AC a lot, I noticed a water spot on the floor. Living in the Rocky Mountains in Canada we don't get to run our AC much.
I have been busy stripping out the old chalking off the roof and cleaning the AC coils. In doing this I had no idea the AC shroud was as sun-damaged and brittle as it was. Looks like a new one is on its way as ICON seems to have one that fits on Amazon.
While being busy doing things that I wish I didn't even touch. ($$$Ca-ching) I decided to pull the inside cover off of my AC and see if I could see anywhere that an AC leak would be coming from.
In pulling off the interior cover panel of my Dometic 630515.331D (Photo 1 I found that the drain hose and connection had been heavily gooped up with a sealant of some kind. (Photo 2) I have read about the connection on the reservoir becoming cracked. The sealant appeared to have some discolouration that indicated further leaking.

I took a small screwdriver and some needle nose plyers and began to remove as much of the chalking as I could. Upon the removal of most of the material, it became evident to me that the flange around the outlet around the drain hose was cracked. (Photo 3)

Given the position of it under the AC unit and my lack of skill in this area, I am thinking of just resealing it with more reliable material. I don't think I will just rechalk it again as it is evident that plan didn't work.

So I am looking for some guidance.

Since there is no real water pressure here, My options would be to install a fibreglass patch over the area. It would be messy and a bit time-consuming. The other is to use something like an epoxy plumbers product.

Any input would be helpful.

Lewster posted this awhile back.

I would get the parts and pull the a/c and do it right. Not sure how to post link other than this:

https://www.airforums.com/forums/f44...it-104778.html

[MikeAnkorage]

New question: has anyone had experience with this rack for bikes? https://www.racksforcars.com/15147/A...ailer-Bracket/
I do NOT like having bikes on the back of the trailer. This method keeps them where less grit will possibly accumulate, and they're less vulnerable to parking lot damage. I know the bikes would have to be dismounted for the front window to be opened. Is the rack sturdy? Easy to lock? Thanks for advice.

[kdgattis]

It looks good