First issue is with our front fantastic fan. It has a mind of its own, and keeps closing at night.
It’s always just the front one, always happens at night after we go to sleep, and no, it’s not raining out!
Second issue is with the a/c. Sometimes, like today, I’ll set the a/c at about 77 so that it will turn on in the afternoon if/when it gets hot out (and we plan to be away from trailer). This morning, inside temp was 71. I set a/c to 77. And the darn thing turns on and won’t turn off. Makes no sense!!
Otherwise, as always, life in our Airstream is great! Currently in Salida, CO.
Hi weirdstuff,
Please send us a direct message with your contact information and the last 6 digits of your VIN so we can share it with our Customer Service and Technical Support team. We look forward to helping you get this resolved.
We just purchased our first Airstream in June, a barely used 2018 International Signature 23CB (it was 3 months old). I already had to re-caulk the shower because there was a 1/2" gap between the shower pan and shower door that was only halfway caulked. I was hoping that would have been my only issue and wasn't a sign of the quality. Sadly, it is not my only issue, and I'm hoping that someone out there has had the same following cabinet issue, who maybe has an awesome suggestion how to "fix".
The pantry cabinet and wardrobe on the stove side is shifting. The top seems to be at least a 1/2" forward from the bottom, and it has shifted toward the bed as well. I've watched it get worse and worse. When I picked up my trailer, I noticed the roll out portion of the pantry had a reveal that wasn't the same at the top and bottom (and I just thought that the glides needed to get adjusted). Later, I realized that the roll out was level and the cabinet was shifting around it. It's now to the point where the roll out cabinet can't close because the cabinet around it has shifted so much, and we've had to remove the roll out entirely.
Poking around I noticed that there are 2 screws in each of the 2 cabinets that go into the floor at the front frame, as well as another 2 screws at the top that go into the ceiling. Is each of these cabinets solely secured by 4 screws? Or is there something I'm not seeing? I have to admit I'm a little dismayed that the 2 upper screws go through a piece of cabinet plywood, then there's a couple inches where the screw goes through nothing before it pierces the ceiling, and then the screw barely goes into the ceiling/metal shell maybe 1/4".
We are not in a position to take to Ohio for repair. It might be something that our local dealership could do (Lazy Days), though I'd rather this get repaired right, even if that means having to do it ourselves. Hoping someone has some insight. Thanks so much!
2019 25' Flying Cloud
Hendersonville
, North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 1,092
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stoeffler
We just purchased our first Airstream in June, a barely used 2018 International Signature 23CB (it was 3 months old). I already had to re-caulk the shower because there was a 1/2" gap between the shower pan and shower door that was only halfway caulked. I was hoping that would have been my only issue and wasn't a sign of the quality. Sadly, it is not my only issue, and I'm hoping that someone out there has had the same following cabinet issue, who maybe has an awesome suggestion how to "fix".
The pantry cabinet and wardrobe on the stove side is shifting. The top seems to be at least a 1/2" forward from the bottom, and it has shifted toward the bed as well. I've watched it get worse and worse. When I picked up my trailer, I noticed the roll out portion of the pantry had a reveal that wasn't the same at the top and bottom (and I just thought that the glides needed to get adjusted). Later, I realized that the roll out was level and the cabinet was shifting around it. It's now to the point where the roll out cabinet can't close because the cabinet around it has shifted so much, and we've had to remove the roll out entirely.
Poking around I noticed that there are 2 screws in each of the 2 cabinets that go into the floor at the front frame, as well as another 2 screws at the top that go into the ceiling. Is each of these cabinets solely secured by 4 screws? Or is there something I'm not seeing? I have to admit I'm a little dismayed that the 2 upper screws go through a piece of cabinet plywood, then there's a couple inches where the screw goes through nothing before it pierces the ceiling, and then the screw barely goes into the ceiling/metal shell maybe 1/4".
We are not in a position to take to Ohio for repair. It might be something that our local dealership could do (Lazy Days), though I'd rather this get repaired right, even if that means having to do it ourselves. Hoping someone has some insight. Thanks so much!
On your pull out pantry, at the bottom, there is a slide on each side. There are probably 3 screws on each slider screwed into the wood at bottom of slide. They have come loose and let the pantry fall out of alignment. Open pantry, loosen screws slightly until you can freely move it back into alignment with cabinet. Make sure it is even down both sides and there is a nice gap at the bottom above the small door below pantry. If it is not high enough there will be to much gap at the top and it will not latch properly. Yes, it is a 2 person job and a pain. After realigning tighten screws. notice that these screws are in slots allowing for adjustment. Once you have it properly adjusted install at least 2 more screws on each side through the predrilled round holes. There are several to chose from. no more slipping of pantry. Why Airstream does not put a couple more screws in each side to pin pantry in place is beyond me. Also, we take the heaviest items out, namely the silverware tray, when traveling lessening the strain on the cabinet.
Adding the second set of slides like a few of us have done will help. But it looks like his whole cabinet has shifted aft and needs to be squared back up and reattached to the trailer.
Stoeffler, stick close we can figure this out and get you fixed up. On mine I added the second set of slides as Rob, instructs us to do in his previous post on external counter top space.
Your whole cabinet has shifted for sure.
A few more pics might help diagnose the cause
2019 25' Flying Cloud
Hendersonville
, North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 1,092
Quote:
Originally Posted by GMFL
Adding the second set of slides like a few of us have done will help. But it looks like his whole cabinet has shifted aft and needs to be squared back up and reattached to the trailer.
Stoeffler, stick close we can figure this out and get you fixed up. On mine I added the second set of slides as Rob, instructs us to do in his previous post on external counter top space.
Your whole cabinet has shifted for sure.
A few more pics might help diagnose the cause
I had completely forgotten about the 2nd slide upgrade. Without this great forum I just do not know how I would make it. Vast amount of great info shared by very generous 23D owners.
2018 23' International
Huntington Beach
, California
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 24
GFCI on 2018 23cb
Quote:
Originally Posted by KatherineHB
Does anyone know where the GFCI switch is on the 2018 Signature 23cb? Our refrigerator is no longer working after only 3 trips and 6 nights on the road. We’ve checked fuses and tried to use propane, but no luck. So, we’re hoping we just need to reset the GFCI switch, which we can’t find!
Thanks for any help.
So, we found the GFCI switch- at the very bottom of the fuse container. It wasn’t tripped. Still no refrigerator power & its panel is dark, despite the refrigerator being plugged in and the outlet having power. Anyone have any ideas?!
Katherine,
Check the 120 volt plug in the fridge compartment lower street side (where the fridge plugs in). That might be part of the problem. Also need to check for 12 volt power behind fridge. If you have power in those two places it sounds like one of the boards is bad (either the back board, the one in outside compartment or the panel board, th one behind the lights and switches inside.
Sorry for your trouble.
2018 23' International
Huntington Beach
, California
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 24
No refrigerator power
Quote:
Originally Posted by GMFL
Katherine,
Check the 120 volt plug in the fridge compartment lower street side (where the fridge plugs in). That might be part of the problem. Also need to check for 12 volt power behind fridge. If you have power in those two places it sounds like one of the boards is bad (either the back board, the one in outside compartment or the panel board, th one behind the lights and switches inside.
Sorry for your trouble.
Could you please tell me how to check the 12 volt power behind the fridge? The 120 volt plug is good
Thanks so much for your help.
We just purchased our first Airstream in June, a barely used 2018 International Signature 23CB (it was 3 months old). I already had to re-caulk the shower because there was a 1/2" gap between the shower pan and shower door that was only halfway caulked. I was hoping that would have been my only issue and wasn't a sign of the quality. Sadly, it is not my only issue, and I'm hoping that someone out there has had the same following cabinet issue, who maybe has an awesome suggestion how to "fix".
The pantry cabinet and wardrobe on the stove side is shifting. The top seems to be at least a 1/2" forward from the bottom, and it has shifted toward the bed as well. I've watched it get worse and worse. When I picked up my trailer, I noticed the roll out portion of the pantry had a reveal that wasn't the same at the top and bottom (and I just thought that the glides needed to get adjusted). Later, I realized that the roll out was level and the cabinet was shifting around it. It's now to the point where the roll out cabinet can't close because the cabinet around it has shifted so much, and we've had to remove the roll out entirely.
Poking around I noticed that there are 2 screws in each of the 2 cabinets that go into the floor at the front frame, as well as another 2 screws at the top that go into the ceiling. Is each of these cabinets solely secured by 4 screws? Or is there something I'm not seeing? I have to admit I'm a little dismayed that the 2 upper screws go through a piece of cabinet plywood, then there's a couple inches where the screw goes through nothing before it pierces the ceiling, and then the screw barely goes into the ceiling/metal shell maybe 1/4".
We are not in a position to take to Ohio for repair. It might be something that our local dealership could do (Lazy Days), though I'd rather this get repaired right, even if that means having to do it ourselves. Hoping someone has some insight. Thanks so much!
Ok so I did some looking and here’s how mine looks.
Small gap between counter top and cabinet on mine but doors line up good.
Attached the same as yours with 2 screws through the top and bottom of both cabinets. My top screws go about 1/2’ into the inside skin.
On ours what is plumb? The cabinet frame or the slide I can’t tell from your picture.
A favor from you guys who have installed an Easy Start with your 13.5 AC, and have a decent clamp amp meter. Can you do a test for me if you get some time? Turn off all breakers except AC, so that nothing else is drawing from shore power. Then fire up the AC. What is the momentary amperage surge when compressor starts; and then what is amperage draw after AC is running? I think this can be measured from the shore power cord, without having to get into the AC unit?
I have Easy Start installed, and am trying to determine if things are working as they should. My garage breaker (15 amp) is tripping when the AC is running in the driveway, which surprises me with the Easy Start. I know 15 amps is "close." I am pretty sure that it ran fine on my previous 23 FB with Easy Start, but the 23D is tripping the house breaker. I have to turn off everything else including the converter/charger to get it to run. I'm wondering if there is an issue with my Easy Start, or possibly with my AC, and it would be helpful to know what the current draw 'should' be on startup and then continued operation with the Easy Start installed.
Thanks in Advance if anyone can check on this. I need to get a decent clamp ammeter. Anyone have a rec that is fairly accurate and won't break the bank?
Small gap between counter top and cabinet on mine but doors line up good.
Attached the same as yours with 2 screws through the top and bottom of both cabinets. My top screws go about 1/2’ into the inside skin.
On ours what is plumb? The cabinet frame or the slide I can’t tell from your picture.
The slide is fairly level, it's the cabinet that has shifted forward and to the right.
Ok so I did some looking and here’s how mine looks.
I'll have to go poking around more to see if I see an L bracket anywhere. I don't recall seeing one on the pantry side (maybe it's on the wardrobe side?). I was able to run my finger behind the cabinet, there's a 1/2" gap back there. I'll see if I can post more pics or video. Thanks for your help!
I had posted here a few weeks ago when I had made the decision to buy my Airstream, but had not yet made the purchase. At that point I also needed a tow vehicle. Since then, I bought a Grand Cherokee with the 5.7L V-8 and, last weekend, I picked up my new Airstream. It is a 2018 International Signature 23CB.
The purchase went very smoothly, despite the dealer changing ownership and name midway through the process (from Shorewood RV Center to LazyDays of Minnesota). The only issue was that the TV would not fully lock into its mount and in trying to force it, the salesman broke the end off of the HDMI cable - now we have to bring it back in to have a new cable fished into place.
I have read ALL 149 PAGES of the "23D thread". Whew! My primary takeaway is that I probably lack the skills, materials and tools to make many of the awesome modifications you guys have done. I am quite jealous.
We are now in the process of outfitting it with bedding (mattress pad from AB Lifestyles & sheets/comforter from beddys), with dinnerware (Fiestaware) and containers for all the little cubbies. I am looking into adding a single tension-rod type shelf to each of the overhead cabinets.
I don't have many questions thus far, but I'm sure I will after our first trip. Here are the only questions I have so far:
- We did not receive the owners manual for the A/C (even though we got manuals for everything else). Can we run the A/C off of 15 amp power (our household outlet) or do we need 30 amps to safely run the A/C.
-There is a little surface rust along the welds on the A-frame. Should I have the dealer address this or is it no big deal?
- I am removing most of the cautionary stickers affixed inside and out. I was going to use "goo-gone" to remove the sticky residue - should I worry about harming the clear coat?
- We would like a more personalized look to our airstream (which we are considering naming "The Escape Pod") and might have the dealer swap out all 3 awnings. This comes with a $1,400 to $1,600 price tag. Do people think we would be able to sell the virtually unused stock awning material on the Air Forums classified?
We are super excited to begin this next phase of our lives and I will post a couple of pictures when we actually get it out on the road over the Labor Day weekend.
We just purchased our first Airstream in June, a barely used 2018 International Signature 23CB (it was 3 months old). I already had to re-caulk the shower because there was a 1/2" gap between the shower pan and shower door that was only halfway caulked. I was hoping that would have been my only issue and wasn't a sign of the quality. Sadly, it is not my only issue, and I'm hoping that someone out there has had the same following cabinet issue, who maybe has an awesome suggestion how to "fix".
The pantry cabinet and wardrobe on the stove side is shifting. The top seems to be at least a 1/2" forward from the bottom, and it has shifted toward the bed as well. I've watched it get worse and worse. When I picked up my trailer, I noticed the roll out portion of the pantry had a reveal that wasn't the same at the top and bottom (and I just thought that the glides needed to get adjusted). Later, I realized that the roll out was level and the cabinet was shifting around it. It's now to the point where the roll out cabinet can't close because the cabinet around it has shifted so much, and we've had to remove the roll out entirely.
Poking around I noticed that there are 2 screws in each of the 2 cabinets that go into the floor at the front frame, as well as another 2 screws at the top that go into the ceiling. Is each of these cabinets solely secured by 4 screws? Or is there something I'm not seeing? I have to admit I'm a little dismayed that the 2 upper screws go through a piece of cabinet plywood, then there's a couple inches where the screw goes through nothing before it pierces the ceiling, and then the screw barely goes into the ceiling/metal shell maybe 1/4".
We are not in a position to take to Ohio for repair. It might be something that our local dealership could do (Lazy Days), though I'd rather this get repaired right, even if that means having to do it ourselves. Hoping someone has some insight. Thanks so much!
Attached is I video I took back on 7/31, right before our 2nd trip out. The trailer itself was pretty close to level left to right, but not off enough to justify how unlevel this cabinet was top to bottom. This shows that the slide itself is not the issue, but the entire pantry and wardrobe cabinet is shifting inward and toward the rear/bed.
Pic attached is looking at the 2 ceiling screws via a mirror. The ceiling screws go though the cabinet ply, then nothing for a couple inches before piercing the aluminum shell. Seems like there should be a better solution to these screws. There's also 2 extra holes that is puzzling to me.
I'll try to swing by the storage unit today to poke around some more. I'll be looking for those L brackets that I don't recall seeing. Keep you posted.
I don't have many questions thus far, but I'm sure I will after our first trip. Here are the only questions I have so far:
- We did not receive the owners manual for the A/C (even though we got manuals for everything else). Can we run the A/C off of 15 amp power (our household outlet) or do we need 30 amps to safely run the A/C.
-There is a little surface rust along the welds on the A-frame. Should I have the dealer address this or is it no big deal?
- I am removing most of the cautionary stickers affixed inside and out. I was going to use "goo-gone" to remove the sticky residue - should I worry about harming the clear coat?
- We would like a more personalized look to our airstream (which we are considering naming "The Escape Pod") and might have the dealer swap out all 3 awnings. This comes with a $1,400 to $1,600 price tag. Do people think we would be able to sell the virtually unused stock awning material on the Air Forums classified?
We are super excited to begin this next phase of our lives and I will post a couple of pictures when we actually get it out on the road over the Labor Day weekend.
Congrats, and welcome.
-I would have the rust addressed, why not?
-AC on 15 amp: MAYBE. But to be safe, have a Micro Air Easy Start installed on your AC. Many of us have done that. Do a search here for "Easy Start." This will reduce the starting amperage of your AC so you should be able to run it on a 15 amp circuit, as long as you have the fridge and water heater on gas, and possibly turn off the converter/charge breaker as well, depending on the battery status and amount of charge they need (the converter/charger can draw quite a few amps if batteries are low). The Easy Start is not hard to install but also an RV guy or your dealer can do it for you. Order the unit from Micro-Air and use code "Airstream" for a $40 discount.
-I took off most of my stickers just using household spray cleaner, and the trailer was 4 years old. No problem. So you should be fine, won't affect clear coat to remove them.
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