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Old 05-11-2017, 07:02 AM   #141
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Thanks for the link Peter, I'm always intrigued by some people that pack it up and hit the trail for years at a time.
I did get a better feel for the 12 volt side of life and swapped out my converter. I got started on this project by wiring in a Progressive Industries surge protector and while I had everything pulled apart, I figured that I might as well swap out the old single stage for a new 4 stage unit that I had laying around. I got that idea from mojoe7009 and his install. Anyway, here's a picture before the grill goes back on, I raised it up so that the fan sits centered in the louvers of the grill (no error codes on the PI surge protector).


Nice work, you will enjoy that charger.
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Old 05-12-2017, 12:36 PM   #142
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Very helpful.

I have a 2017 23D with 80w solar. I am not clear wether I need to have the use switch on or off when connected to shore power.
I think it makes a difference on who installed your solar and how it was installed. On mine, it's always connected. If I'm on shore power then the solar isn't used. If I'm not, the position of the Use/Store switch doesn't make a difference, the solar controller is managing the connection, charging if necessary. I know others have posted in here that unless they were in "Use", there was no solar charging. Seems like it would defeat the purpose of having solar to keep the batteries charged when in storage. I'm glad mine is set up so that the solar is managed by the controller and not the switch.

I created a Use/Store cross reference for myself and shared with others here. You may find it useful but I recommend you check it against your setup to make sure it works the same way for you. (I have this as Excel or a .pdf if someone wants it that way instead of a picture.)

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Old 05-13-2017, 07:55 AM   #143
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fridge baffle

Hey Troutboy, I saw your post about the fridge fan installs, I like the switches! I changed my single fan out for two quieter fans, but I also added a baffle to get the cooling air closer to the fridge back and condenser. Here's a link to my changes: http://www.airforums.com/forums/blog...-upgrade-2632/
I might need to add some height to the back baffle to get it a little higher and closer to the condenser.
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Old 05-13-2017, 08:00 AM   #144
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Boog, that is cool. How does the system work? I thought about baffling, but decided to overkill with fan power. If it doesn't work as is, I'll try your approach.
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Old 05-13-2017, 11:22 AM   #145
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Ok guys, here's this mornings MOD. And it's EASY!

OK guys so this is an easy one. You know how in our bathrooms the toilet sits on a wooden pedestal that has a white Formica laminate over it. Well, when my wife, daughter, or myself sit on the toilet we like to kick her feet up on the edge of the wooden pedestal. I am always worried that our feet are going to chip the corner of the box. So in a continuation of my bathroom model of installing an elongated toilet I also thought to add a piece of 16th inch thick 1 inch wide aluminum angle along the front edge of the box as a foot kick to prevent shoes from chipping the laminate corner. I used "Scotts" brand double-sided tape "30 pounds strength" to mount the aluminum to the front of the box please see pictures below. I think this is a great addition cost about $5.47 to do and took about 10 minutes.
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Old 05-13-2017, 11:36 AM   #146
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FYI in the 20-footer thread, there was some discussion last year about raising the entire bath floor, as our throne is also up on a pedestal like that and is "too high" for some folks. A raised floor reduces the need to put one's feet on that outside corner. BTW I think you can get white vinyl outside corners like that, but not sure where.

The new floor has to go under the bath vanity doors, with some room for a rug or bath mat, but the added height is more comfortable for some. Still TBD on our unit, but I am planning on storing a large cast iron pan under the new floor. Indeed, the floor ply might actually be supported in part by the pan if the dimensions work out right.

Cheers,

Peter

PS -- See Posts #1081 and following from last Fourth of July for the raised bath floor:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f542...rs-127845.html
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Old 05-14-2017, 04:37 PM   #147
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Modified Table Idea ... your thoughts, please

Good day all

For some time, I've been wrestling with ideas to build a new dinette table that would provide more versatility than the rather large, fixed "factory" table. I think that I've finally settled on a design that might work well for us.

Remember, there only the two of us with only occasional (Oh, make that very occasional) visitors.

I will remove, wrap securely, and store the factory table. The next owner (assuming that there will be one, sooner or later) may want to put it back to "original."

So, here's my plan. I will construct two table tops. I will use 1/2" Baltic birch, laminating one side with "factory" (or factory-like) laminate (Formica, Wilsonart, whatever). The backside will be laminated with white melamine, just like the factory table.

The larger of the two tables will be affixed to the rear wall and will "pull out" (toward the rear of the trailer) on ball-bearing slides. It will also rotate (using a 12" lazy Susan bearing).

This larger, permanently attached table can be used at mealtime either pushed back against the (front) wall of the trailer, or, pulled out from the wall. It is likely that it is all the table the two of us will need for meals.

This same, larger-of-the-two tables may also be rotated to allow more room in the seating area. I have decided to call this the "Tea Time" configuration... a little roomier seating, yet room for teapots, cups, and tasty sweets.

When company shows up to join us in a meal, the larger table can be pulled forward and the smaller table inserted between the 'big' table and the wall. This gives us the same amount of table space as we have now.

I think that the "mechanics" will work out easily. A support post (similar to the factory post, except not retractable) will follow the big table as it is pulled out from, or pushed back against the wall. I can probably devise a method to clip the tables together so that they do not "rearrange" themselves either while on the road or when in use.

So, these's my idea, and I would greatly appreciate your comments and suggestions. We feel that having a smaller table most of the time will "open up" the trailer and add to its comfort for us two.

To help visualize this, I made tabletop "patterns" from 1/4" MDF. I photographed these in the various set-up configurations that I tried to describe above.

First photo: "normal" position for meals
Second photo: alternate position for meals
Third photo: table rotated 90-degrees, the "Tea Time" configuration
Forth photo: both tables in place ready for dinner for four

So... whatcha think?

Thanks,

Rob
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Old 05-14-2017, 05:00 PM   #148
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Rob,
Looks great. One question I have is how will slides/rollers look with the table pulled out to position 2. And are the slides/rollers strong enough to support the " "tongue" side of the table when extended. Both up and down force and wiggle force. Please educate me cause I know you probably already have this worked out.
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Old 05-14-2017, 06:47 PM   #149
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Rob,
Looks great. One question I have is how will slides/rollers look with the table pulled out to position 2. And are the slides/rollers strong enough to support the " "tongue" side of the table when extended. Both up and down force and wiggle force. Please educate me cause I know you probably already have this worked out.
Ronnie,

I'm thinking using this slide (or similar) http://www.cabinetparts.com/p/accuri...lides-AC795718. 350-pound rating provides profound overkill.

Side to side "wiggle" will always be present in anything that's not securely anchored in [at least] three points. Even the factory table wiggles, but that's due to flexing of the front aluminum wall. I would expect my design could wiggle a bit more than the factory table, but barely so. I will certainly do a mock-up of the whole thing before anything is placed into service in the Airstream.

So, you think the concept is OK?

The "smaller table is sometimes better" idea seems OK?
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Old 05-14-2017, 06:55 PM   #150
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[QUOTE=RFP;1949891]Ronnie,

I'm thinking using this slide (or similar) http://www.cabinetparts.com/p/accuri...lides-AC795718. 350-pound rating provides profound overkill.

Side to side "wiggle" will always be present in anything that's not securely anchored in [at least] three points. Even the factory table wiggles, but that's due to flexing of the front aluminum wall. I would expect my design could wiggle a bit more than the factory table, but barely so. I will certainly do a mock-up of the whole thing before anything is placed into service in the Airstream.

So, you think the concept is OK?

Rob,

Yes I think you are on to something. With your skill set, and sense of "profound overkill" it will be awesome! I love the idea and the concept is solid.
Maybe between the two of us ( meaning me riding your coat tail) we could do some design work for airstream. "R&R designs"
Thanks
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Old 05-14-2017, 10:15 PM   #151
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Rob, nice idea. Will you still be able to set up that area as a bed as well?
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Old 05-15-2017, 04:18 AM   #152
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Rob, nice idea. Will you still be able to set up that area as a bed as well?
Nope... that's the primary reason to be sure to keep the original table and the 'design requirement' that this 'mod' must be 100% reversible. The sofa will still convert for sleeping, but not the dinette.

As a matter of fact I'm not sure how to convert the dinette to a bed...
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Old 05-15-2017, 04:56 AM   #153
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Nope... that's the primary reason to be sure to keep the original table and the 'design requirement' that this 'mod' must be 100% reversible. The sofa will still convert for sleeping, but not the dinette.

As a matter of fact I'm not sure how to convert the dinette to a bed...
For rough roads, stowing the dinette top down as a bed platform is recommended to avoid damage, due to the table in the raised position being subjected to fairly extreme-road-motion-induced action. A number of posts in various threads about other models have raised this issue, as lowering the table can be a pain to do. In our FC20 we drop the table routinely for all towing, as a conservative measure. We also use the dinette a lot as a bed, so the transition is an easy one.

I would be concerned that your new set up, with the slides now added into the mix, will be more vulnerable to road action causing damage. So I would recommend that you have a very secure way of locking the new top against the interior of the trailer.

Rough road action is not just up and down. It can also be pretty extreme side-to-side on the horizontal plane. Swerving the rig to avoid a collision, or a pothole in the road, etc., . . . you know that sort of thing.

Also, while the added seating flexibility is nice, with the bench seats remaining long, I question how often you will use the various configurations. You know the phrase, "to a hammer everything is a nail?"

Have you considered that one lurking "benefit" of this "solution" might be employment for a bored cabinetmaker?



Good luck!

Peter

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Old 05-15-2017, 07:15 AM   #154
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Have you considered that one lurking "benefit" of this "solution" might be employment for a bored cabinetmaker?
OK, now you've hurt my feelings!

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< snip >
I would be concerned that your new set up, with the slides now added into the mix, will be more vulnerable to road action causing damage. So I would recommend that you have a very secure way of locking the new top against the interior of the trailer.

Rough road action is not just up and down. It can also be pretty extreme side-to-side on the horizontal plane. Swerving the rig to avoid a collision, or a pothole in the road, etc., . . . you know that sort of thing.< snip >
Yep, I'm well aware of all that and more. Another thing is that while "in use" (like at mealtime), everything must be locked down so that bumping the table with a knee or elbow doesn't put the whole table "in motion," with resulting spills and stains and whatever other nastiness that could happen. I certainly appreciate your "cautions" ... working to help put men on the moon certainly taught me the importance of carefully, and systematically trying to think of all the "what ifs." I welcome all "what if" reminders!

Believe, me, a design criteria is that everything "locks in place" in every configuration, and that the locking mechanism be easy to operate, secure, and failure resistant.

Thanks again,

Rob
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Old 05-15-2017, 11:07 AM   #155
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Turned tonge jack 90degrees to allow my tailgate to open while hooked to the trailer.
This brilliantly simple idea made this whole thread worth it! Took me longer to find the Allen wrenches than to make the change. My tailgate now clears the jack by a whopping 1/16"! This will make it so much easier not to go through gymnastics to retrieve things from the truck while hitched up. Thanks for the idea.
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Old 05-15-2017, 11:47 AM   #156
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Old 05-15-2017, 12:19 PM   #157
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OK, now you've hurt my feelings!
. . .
Your sense of humor is appreciated!

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Old 05-15-2017, 12:23 PM   #158
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Your sense of humor is appreciated!

Thanks! Pretty much the only sense I've got left!

R
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Old 05-15-2017, 12:34 PM   #159
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Yeah, if it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all . . .

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Old 05-15-2017, 01:39 PM   #160
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oh come on boys,
gloom,despair and agony on me. deep dark depression excessive misery!
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