The 23D thread

[DMFlewelling]

Originally Posted by switz

Note that there is a cross body wire channel that is accessible. One needs to be very flexible to reach it on the curb side. It is under the small storage area of the stove and can be "reached" from the bottom storage hatch to the right of the stove. It goes directly across and comes up near the leading edge of the street side wheel well.

We added an auxiliary power inlet to the street side front of the trailer when new plus an auto transfer switch if power were to be connected there. Same idea as on the 25 and longer 30 amp trailers. We added a matching device to the right side and fabricated a bracketed to support a female receiver for the Starlink cable that incorporated POE. We ran an ethernet cable (CAT 7) back to where the Peplink modem is attached in a discrete manner.

Thanks for that bit of info. I think I will be doing some rolling around on the floor figuring things out. I have ordered a power supply/POE box from Boondocker.io, just to complicate the solution.

--Doug

[FloydCoVa]

Hello everyone. Has any body replaced there water pump? While getting ready for our next trip. I have been poking around the water pump and started wondering how I would get the screws out holding it to the floor. There isn’t much room to get a screwdriver in there. Can you remove the bottom of the street side closet to gain better access? Wondering how to get the pump out and new one in. Appreciate any info thanks Scott

[RFP]

Hi Scott!

I haven't replaced the water pump, but I did relocate it to allow for easier access. Actually, I made a 90-degree adapter out of 1/2" balltc birch plywood that let me mount the pump vertically.

As for the screws, persistence will pay off. As I recall I used a small 1/4" drive ratchet wrench with a short extension and a Philips screwdriver tip. It's aggravating but you can do it.

Rob

[FloydCoVa]

Thanks Rob.

I was hoping for a easier way. I’m getting our 23d ready for our first trip this year and was looking , cleaning every nook and cranny I could see. I think the water pump might just be the most difficult thing on the trailer to get too. My water pump seams to be functioning well right now. I’ve done some searches on the internet hoping some one already replaced it but found nothing. Well thanks for the good info I now have a idea how to go about replacing it when and if the time comes.

One more note we will be out your way In a couple of weeks on our way to The four corners area for the month of may. We can’t wait.

Thanks again Scott

[RFP]

Originally Posted by FloydCoVa

< snip >

One more note we will be out your way In a couple of weeks on our way to The four corners area for the month of may. We can’t wait.

Thanks again Scott

Oh, if you come through the Fort Worth/Dallas area please let me know!

[FloydCoVa]

Will do. But I think we will be north of you on 40. First stop is just outside of Sedona for a few days then work our way north to Dead horse point state park , Utah for a week, then over to Ouray Co. for a few days then south to Durango for Three or for more days before starting the long meandering way back to Virginia.

Would be great to meet up with you. You have really helped me learn my way around the 23d. Along with the whole gang on the 23d thread. Last September my wife and I went to Grand Tetons and Yellowstone and our trailer performed near perfect, with only a minor propane leak on one tank.

This past winter I replaced our skylight, installed solar and lithium battery, new regulator and custom made hoses and new tires. We are ready for our trip…can’t wait!

[Hoonanea]

I'm replacing the crank-up batwing antenna on my 2012 model with a more streamlined non-crank model. I've disassembled the old one and was disappointed not to find a coax connector where I could separate the antenna from the cable going through the ceiling and walls to who-knows-where. I tugged on it just a little to see if there was excess cable tucked inside the ceiling space and a short amount of cable came out but nothing that revealed a connector to allow me to separate them.

Has anyone else done this? Is what I'm seeing just the way it is and I'll need to cut it and add my own connector to the end? Trying to avoid that if possible. Right now I'm not seeing another option.

[centennialman]

Rob....great idea to mount the pump vertically!

The pump in the 23D is much more accessible than what I had in my 20FC. It drove me nuts when I had to access it in that Airstream.

I wanted to install a winterizing kit in the 23D but, it's pretty tight quarters in there.

I too, wonder if there is an easy way to remove the bottom shelf in the street side closet. That would make things a lot easier.

[FloydCoVa]

I think if you look on the underside of the bottom of the closet you can see pocket screws holding it in place. I’m not sure it could be accessed any easier than the way Rob explained how to get the screws holding the pump, if at all.

[FloydCoVa]

I just went out and counted there are 14 pocket screws holding the bottom of that closet in place…

[FloydCoVa]

I wanted to install a winterizing kit in the 23D but, it's pretty tight quarters in there.


Here is a picture of my winterizing kit. Not to hard to install. Also I put a check valve on it to avoid city water back flow to water tank.

[RFP]

Originally Posted by centennialman

Rob....great idea to mount the pump vertically!
< snip >

Well, I try to think ahead to what could possibly go wrong while "on the road" and take measures to be sure those things don't go wrong. Making the pump more accessible was one of those little projects.

[RFP]

Originally Posted by Hoonanea

I'm replacing the crank-up batwing antenna on my 2012 model with a more streamlined non-crank model. I've disassembled the old one and was disappointed not to find a coax connector where I could separate the antenna from the cable going through the ceiling and walls to who-knows-where. I tugged on it just a little to see if there was excess cable tucked inside the ceiling space and a short amount of cable came out but nothing that revealed a connector to allow me to separate them.

Has anyone else done this? Is what I'm seeing just the way it is and I'll need to cut it and add my own connector to the end? Trying to avoid that if possible. Right now I'm not seeing another option.

Not being a fan of so-called omni-directional antennas, I just replaced the old batwing antenna with a King Jack powered antenna. It was a super simple installation and it works very well.

[Hoonanea]

Originally Posted by RFP

Not being a fan of so-called omni-directional antennas, I just replaced the old batwing antenna with a King Jack powered antenna. It was a super simple installation and it works very well.

Thanks for the alternative, RFP. The funny thing is, an antenna that works well isn't high on the priority list for me. What's more important to me is eliminating the lift arm to gain more real estate on the roof. I'll cut the cable, attach a coupler to the end and that will just have to do.

[dbdreams]

Scott,
After removing the heater vent hose over the water pump it was not TO bad to work in there. If you do anything with the pump a bit of hard rubber under it and installing flexible hoses (silencing kit) helps with the vibration and banging most pumps do.
A couple of us will be in the S.E. Utah area for a few weeks in mid May.
Bluff May 11-15, Torrey 15-19, Blanding 19-21, Delores Co. May 21-23, La Veta Co. May 24-27.
Hope we cross paths at some point.
David & Carole

[centennialman]

I wonder if, removing the pocket screws holding the shelf down in the street side closet and then installing hinges so it can swing upwards would allow for an easy way to work from above in the small space where the pump is

[FloydCoVa]

Nothing is wrong with my water pump, but after installing a winterizing kit and then installing a check valve, I realized how little room there is in there. Between your suggestion and Robs I feel when the time comes to replace it I’ll get it done. Thanks for the info.

Good chance on crossing paths. We definitely will be in the area.

We will be in Camp Verde May 5-12, Dead Horse Point State Park May13-20, Ouray May 21-24, Durango May 24-28 then turning back home staying at Riana/Abiquiu lake.

[FloydCoVa]

Originally Posted by centennialman

I wonder if, removing the pocket screws holding the shelf down in the street side closet and then installing hinges so it can swing upwards would allow for an easy way to work from above in the small space where the pump is

That sounds like a good idea. I think if you got all the pocket screws out it would be tough getting them back in. That’s also a lot of screws for a small panel.

If not a hinge, which is a great idea, maybe install small cleats or small pieces of wood that the bottom would sit on and be able to screw the bottom to. Humm got me thinking. Thanks

[RFP]

How about cutting a hole in the bottom shelf and install one of these: https://www.homedepot.com/p/6-in-x-9...gs-and-reviews

Should be easy enough and it would maintain the integrity of the shelf. Inexpensive, too!

[RFP]

Originally Posted by RFP

How about cutting a hole in the bottom shelf and install one of these: https://www.homedepot.com/p/6-in-x-9...gs-and-reviews

Should be easy enough and it would maintain the integrity of the shelf. Inexpensive, too!

I don't want to oversell this solution to the water pump access problem, but it does seem like the perfect fix. I have this exact access panel in a wall of my home where a bunch of computer cables, etc, come together. Easy, secure access... and it's white!!!

I wish I had put 2 and 2 together and used this in our 23D before I oh-so-patiently coaxed those darned factory screws out. Sometimes, I fail to even follow my own example