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Old 02-08-2023, 08:25 AM   #4481
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Good morning Rob,
I suspect that I wasn't getting flow out of the kitchen hot water line is because it was all being diverted into the hot water tank. Do you know if there is more than one valve that needs to be switched somewhere near the yellow one? I couldn't find any other one's. In my FB 20 there were two valves that had to be switched when winterizing.
Arrived home yesterday and got her put away in the carport. She is absolutely beautiful and there is so much more room than the 20 FB
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Old 02-08-2023, 09:08 AM   #4482
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Good morning Rob,
I suspect that I wasn't getting flow out of the kitchen hot water line is because it was all being diverted into the hot water tank. Do you know if there is more than one valve that needs to be switched somewhere near the yellow one? I couldn't find any other one's. In my FB 20 there were two valves that had to be switched when winterizing.
Arrived home yesterday and got her put away in the carport. She is absolutely beautiful and there is so much more room than the 20 FB
Steve!

First, I think you're right about the water filing the water heater instead of coming through the kitchen fixture.

Nope, on our 23D there's only the one valve. It's sole purpose is to keep the tank from filling. As you can see in the attached (crummy) photo, the valve is on the cold water supply line. In the photo, it is shown in the "turned off" (blocked) position.

We really need some photos of your new trailer!!

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Old 02-09-2023, 06:44 AM   #4483
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Thanks Rob! I have that one valve in the same position as yours and it's filling the hot water heater tank. I have an appointment with the Airstream mechanic next week and he can figure it out.

I will get pictures as soon as I get her cleaned up and back from the mechanic. It has the awning package and I rolled all of them out yesterday.....love it!
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Old 02-09-2023, 08:17 AM   #4484
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Thanks Rob! I have that one valve in the same position as yours and it's filling the hot water heater tank. I have an appointment with the Airstream mechanic next week and he can figure it out.

I will get pictures as soon as I get her cleaned up and back from the mechanic. It has the awning package and I rolled all of them out yesterday.....love it!
That's just weird, Steve. I think the only other way for the water to get into the tank would be by going through the mixing valve. Hmmmmm
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Old 02-09-2023, 03:39 PM   #4485
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Fortunately, I will be taking it in to my Airstream mechanic the first of next week and will ask him to figure it out
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Old 02-14-2023, 03:53 PM   #4486
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Where is everyone mounting their Level Mate Pro?
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Old 02-16-2023, 06:16 PM   #4487
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I have a 2015 23D and am finishing a lithium upgrade with two SOK 206a batteries and Victron components. Everything is installed and working except the "inverter" outlets. I think that there is a junction box feeding those AC outlets somewhere downstream of the original inverter AC power outlet. I also think that circuit was not routed though the electric power panel or any circuit breaker therein but rather was protected by the inverter hardware. Am I right?? In order to restore power to those "inverter" outlets, it appears that I will need to connect the old AC yellow wire (12/3) coming out of the original inverter back through the AC distribution panel and add a circuit breaker to the box. Insight and recommendations are welcomed. Thanks in advance
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Old 02-17-2023, 11:19 AM   #4488
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For those of you with 23D models and have a CPAP machine. Where do you place your machine and where are you plugging it in?
I put the CPAP in the locker above the bed. Be careful to not block your filter intake. I swapped out one of the USB plugs for a 12V Accessory Plug and then use a 12V adapter available for my CPAP (Respironics DreamStation). This set-up was the most electrically efficient approach, rather than using the inverter to drive the 110V adapter that came with the machine.

I put a Command Strip Broom Clip on the wall to keep the hose from dangling in my face.
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Old 02-18-2023, 06:59 AM   #4489
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Thanks! So far, I have been putting the CPAP in the cabinet above the bed. I ran an extension cord from the wall plug by the closet and plugged it in that way. I need to read up on the 12V method you came up with....does it convert it to regular DC power?
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Old 02-18-2023, 08:23 AM   #4490
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Thanks! So far, I have been putting the CPAP in the cabinet above the bed. I ran an extension cord from the wall plug by the closet and plugged it in that way. I need to read up on the 12V method you came up with....does it convert it to regular DC power?
The information below is with respect to airsense cpap machines, but the concepts apply to other cpap machines too.

Airsense 10 and 11 machines run from a 24v supply.

Out of the box, the airsense machines come with a 120v to 24v power adapter.

Operating the cpap machines from a 120v supply while boondocking is very inefficient. You need an inverter running to generate 120v from a 12v battery bank. The inverter consumes power to run and more energy is lost in the conversion. Then your cpap power adapter converts 120v to 24v and burns additional power in the conversion process.

The manufacturer of my cpap machines also sells a 12v to 24v dc-dc adapter to run the cpap machines directly from the 12v battery bank. This is dramatically more efficient and much less power is lost during conversions and in running the power converters/inverters.

How to connect the 12v to 24v power adapters to your trailer system is a subject for a different posting.

Please note that at least for the airsense machines, you can't simply cut the cable and connect your own 12v-24v dc-dc supply. The manufacturer has some sensing in the airsense that detects if something other than their own power adapter is connected and will not operate. There are ways to engineer around this, but it isn't worth messing with.
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Old 02-18-2023, 07:05 PM   #4491
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Fortunately, I will be taking it in to my Airstream mechanic the first of next week and will ask him to figure it out
Steve,

What was the story on your water heater plumbing mystery?
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Old 02-18-2023, 08:33 PM   #4492
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The manufacturer of my cpap machines also sells a 12v to 24v dc-dc adapter to run the cpap machines directly from the 12v battery bank. This is dramatically more efficient and much less power is lost during conversions and in running the power converters/inverters.

Do you use the 12 volt DC to DC cable for the AirSense 10? I cannot find one on ResMed’s site that says it works for the AirSense 11. Though I’ve seen ones on Amazon for both USB-C and 12-volt. But I’m a bit hesitant buying an unknown manufacturer from Amazon.
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Old 02-19-2023, 05:31 AM   #4493
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Rob.....they think a screen may be clogged....should know more the first of this week.
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Old 02-19-2023, 06:33 AM   #4494
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Do you use the 12 volt DC to DC cable for the AirSense 10? I cannot find one on ResMed’s site that says it works for the AirSense 11. Though I’ve seen ones on Amazon for both USB-C and 12-volt. But I’m a bit hesitant buying an unknown manufacturer from Amazon.
Good question. I have looked at these briefly, but haven't purchased one yet.

From recollection, a dc-dc is available for the airsense 10.

And... supposedly there is a dc-dc for one of the other airsense products will also work with the airsense 11. I think it might be the one for the airsense mini or something like that. But, recommend doing some searches and not rely on my recollection because I have a mind like a steel sieve, lol.
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Old 02-19-2023, 08:53 AM   #4495
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And... supposedly there is a dc-dc for one of the other airsense products will also work with the airsense 11. I think it might be the one for the airsense mini or something like that. But, recommend doing some searches and not rely on my recollection because I have a mind like a steel sieve, lol.

LOL! Yeah, I was just prescribed a CPAP I haven’t gotten it yet, but it’s going to be an AirSense 11. I guess insurance won’t cover the mini. Hopefully either my reseller will be able to help or maybe I’ll need to reach out to ResMed. I’ve had a hard time finding solid information on this.
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Old 02-19-2023, 10:21 AM   #4496
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LOL! Yeah, I was just prescribed a CPAP I haven’t gotten it yet, but it’s going to be an AirSense 11. I guess insurance won’t cover the mini. Hopefully either my reseller will be able to help or maybe I’ll need to reach out to ResMed. I’ve had a hard time finding solid information on this.
I am pretty sure there is a DC-DC adapter that will work with the airsense 11. There are some posts on-line confirming that a dc-dc for a different resmed machine works perfectly with the airsense 11. Try a bit of googling and see if you can find the older threads in the topic. Eventually I will get around to solving this problem, but at the moment my time is consumed on other projects :-)

Note: The dc-dc can be purchased separately from your airsense 11. Insurance won't cover it, but it is something like $60 so it is probably not a budget buster for most folk.
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Old 02-23-2023, 05:09 PM   #4497
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2018 23cb oven delete?

Hi,
So has anyone deleted their oven, moved a microwave in it's place and installed a larger fridge where the current fridge/microwave reside? With also either keeping the current stovetop if it's not all-in- one oven/stovetop unit or replacing with a new stovetop over a microwave?

I gotta believe somebody has??
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Old 02-23-2023, 06:01 PM   #4498
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Hi, on your vitrifigo, is it the DP150iBD4-s? If it is, was it simply plug and play? And if i may ask, what was the price point on that?
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Old 02-25-2023, 07:18 AM   #4499
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Hi, on your vitrifigo, is it the DP150iBD4-s? If it is, was it simply plug and play? And if i may ask, what was the price point on that?
I replaced my stock refrigerator with the Vitrifrigo DP150iBD4 and haven't regretted it. I lived in Florida at the time and I needed something that performed better in the hot weather. It continues to perform very well and cools down much more quickly on start-up.

The unit is narrower than the one it replaced so I bought a piece of oak project board at a big box store and stained it to match the existing oak hardwood. It is not a direct match with the laminate edging but the original look from the factory had this combination already.

If I recall correctly, I did remove the 4 rubber feet on the bottom of the unit to help with clearance in the existing opening from top to bottom. And even with that accommodation, I did have to use a Dremmel tool to sand away a small area at the top where the red arrow is in one of the pictures to get the hinge apparatus to clear. The frame that goes around the refrigerator on 3 sides (not the bottom, though) covered the area that I sanded down.

Speaking of the bottom section. . . there is room for insect intrusion with this change. It's not a gas refrigerator so it's not built to have a perfectly sealed interface. I'd recommend giving some thought to how you might want to make covers for the two vent openings. I need to work on this more sometime and I'll need to pull the refrigerator out to do it. I still want to be able to open the vents from the outside but I want some kind of an access door that seals better and sits behind the vented door you see from the outside. To do this, I'll need access from inside the trailer. So give some thought to that design now. I've included a picture of what the cavity looks like from the inside once the refrigerator has been removed.

I have used some foam pipe insulation to stuff into the bottom opening and, for the most part, it has been fine. And now that I'm looking at the picture with the red arrow more closely, I see the small piece of electrical tape I added above the hinge as a quick solution to a place where I saw a stink bug about to enter the living space. ;-)

So, all of this is to say, it's been a great upgrade for my needs. I really enjoy the quick cool-down, better performance in hot weather, and two door style. It's not as flush fitting as the original unit but that hasn't bothered me any.
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Old 02-25-2023, 07:23 AM   #4500
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Hi,
So has anyone deleted their oven, moved a microwave in it's place and installed a larger fridge where the current fridge/microwave reside? With also either keeping the current stovetop if it's not all-in- one oven/stovetop unit or replacing with a new stovetop over a microwave?

I gotta believe somebody has??
I've not done this. You'll want to pay particular attention to the depth required for a new larger refrigerator. My observation when considering the same thing was that the closer you get to the ceiling, the curvature of the roof starts to become a problem with the necessary depth. I think I was finding anywhere from 24" to 26" inches required for the depth. So measure from the bottom opening to the height of the potential replacement and then from there, measure back toward the exterior wall. It's going to be close, I think.

After posting my last reply about the Vitrifrigo, I realized I didn't address the price. I don't remember anymore what I paid but I remember it wasn't cheap.
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