The 23D thread

[Jdubya]

I did the same research you’ve done. Read the payload of 1850 and figured it was good for me towing my 23FB. What I found was that by the time I had my bells/whistles added to my GMC my 1850 was now down to 1350 and that is what is on my door sticker. I’m solo so it works for me - but when I do travel/tow with others I am maxed out. I hate the thought of another truck - but I know there is one in my future. Make sure you factor that in - 1850 might not be what you end up with.

[RFP]

Originally Posted by Phjimfitz

(snip)My question is whether a used 2018 or newer model with max tow and about 1850 of payload will work? (snip)

Our 2015 Ford F150 Eco Boost and our 2014 23D is a marriage made in heaven. The door sticker payload is 1870 pounds and since we travel pretty light, we are just under that allowable weight. Anyway, the truck is a towing beast with the 23, comfortable, rock-sold stable, and acceptably economical. With the going rate for a '21 F150 being 67 grand, I would definitely shop the used market.

Enjoy your 23D... What a great trailer.

[dboehmer]

Originally Posted by Phjimfitz

I easily have 150 pounds of electrical wires and adapters, hoses, X-chocks, chocks, hitch lock etc.

Placing those items in the bumper and rear compartment should help you out!! You have 6000 GVWR equally balanced on the trailer to determine your tongue weight.

Your tongue weight should be 10% to 15% of your overall trailer weight.

Also when you change TV's you must re-setup your weight distribution hitch.

HTH

Dennis

[DRBusse]

Keep in mind for purposes of this discussion there is a significant tongue weight difference between the two 23-foot Airstream floor plans. The 23FB is something like 200 pounds lighter. I learned the hard way.

We were all set to buy the FB model and suddenly switched to the CB floor plan at the last minute, without carefully looking at the specs.
Our original tow vehicle was suddenly maxed-out. Thankfully the truck was in great demand on the used market and we were able to trade for a tow vehicle whose numbers were a good match for the trailer.

[EarStreaming]

Originally Posted by Phjimfitz

...I have designed a 2021 F-150 with max tow and HDPP with a painful MSRP of $67,000. I know it will do everything I can imagine...Thoughts?

IMHO, get the HDPP used or new and you won't regret it. As you probably know, getting an HDPP has its compromise which has less bells and whistles so you'll need to decide what is important to you. I personally love my HDPP and I don't miss all the extras that I don't need/use but if when I do, that's where I'll end up with the 250-350 lineup. Enjoy your AS and safe travels!

[Phjimfitz]

Not surprisingly, I keep on learning from folks on the forum and appreciate your candor. I wish some of the professional truck sales force knew near as much as some of the folks here. Here's a snapshot of what I am learnt about Heavy Duty Payload Package. AS a long time lurker, I read tons of info before buying our 23D. At that time I had a 99 F150 which was barely up to the task due to design limitations. From the reading, I got the impression that max tow and HDPP trucks were readily available and not an uncommon beast. I sold my ruck and began searching for a replacement with max tow and HDPP. It may be easier to find a Megaladon tooth. The HDPP was available on trim levels up to and including Lariat from 2015-2018. From 2019 to present, it is only available on XLT trim levels and below. At a cost of approximately $1500, that package makes a truck a 5/8 ton truck, which is hugely appropriate for our towing situation. The frame, rear axle, differential, wheels and tires are all heavier duty than standard and add about 200 lbs to GVWR. In 2015, the HDPP gave a 3300lb payload for V-8 and 2900 lbs for the eco boost. I have yet to find someone who can tell me what the payload will be on 2021 model trucks with max tow and HDPP.
Here's a parting question, has anyone ordered a new 2021 truck. What is the process/technique for negotiating price on vehicles for which invoice information is not available. Surely folks don't pay MSRP, that word is not even in my vocabulary.

[johnjohnjohn]

Has anyone reworked the cold/hot water supply lines under the kitchen sink? Each time I use that storage area, I am struck by how awkwardly the supply lines protrude into the space.

I was thinking of cutting the pex elbow and shutoff and replacing with a straight sharkbite shutoff valve. And then either rerouting the lines closer to the black drain pipe or otherwise getting them closer to the underside of the countertop.

I haven't invested in a pex crimp tool yet. Maybe I should...

[GCinSC2]

Originally Posted by johnjohnjohn

I haven't invested in a pex crimp tool yet. Maybe I should...

Pex clamp system that does not use special tools to clamp or open Pexlock. https://www.flairit.com/ and cost less than other no tool fittings. I carry a few as a just in case supply.

[RedwoodDrmz]

Originally Posted by johnjohnjohn

Has anyone reworked the cold/hot water supply lines under the kitchen sink? Each time I use that storage area, I am struck by how awkwardly the supply lines protrude into the space.

I was thinking of cutting the pex elbow and shutoff and replacing with a straight sharkbite shutoff valve. And then either rerouting the lines closer to the black drain pipe or otherwise getting them closer to the underside of the countertop.

I haven't invested in a pex crimp tool yet. Maybe I should...

Agree completely. seems kind of a mess under there could be much tidier/useful.
let us know if you do decide to clean it up and your experiences...

[johnjohnjohn]

A few mods over the holidays:

#1 - I haven't tackled the under-the-sink water lines yet, but thanks to a small mishap installing a Dometic 321 toilet, I'm now the proud owner of a pex crimp tool. I won't bore you with the details, but I learned the hard way to double-check plumbing fitting sizes before installing. The 321 needs a 1/2 supply line, not a toilet supply line!

#2 - I installed Lynk sliding drawers in the pantry from ~10 pages up-thread. They fit great!

#3 - I removed the accordion privacy curtain and replaced it with hand-sewn curtains on an oval closet rod. Pictures below. I bought a three pack of closet rods, and have 2 left. Also, I have the factory-installed accordion privacy curtain. Message me if you're interested in either. Happy to let them go for free/shipping cost.

#4 - I uninstalled the factory Stoett Nautilus retractable shower door. I'm generally suspicious of anything that requires this much caulk. Also it would drip slightly outside the shower onto the raised floor by the toilet... Unfortunately, my suspicions paid off. The vertical ~6" strip of laminated wood the shower head is mounted to was soaking wet at its base! I removed all the old caulk and am planning to re-caulk and install a simple shower curtain. I'm thinking of using tension wire, but haven't settled on the exact curtain hanging mechanism. I'd offer the Nautilus door to anyone who wants it (free/shipping cost), but be prepared to spend a fortune on caulk!

I'm really enjoying these projects. Thanks again for all the great ideas!

Happy New Year,
John

PS - Sorry for the rotated pictures. I'm not sure what's happening there...

[RFP]

Originally Posted by johnjohnjohn

< snip >

I'm really enjoying these projects. Thanks again for all the great ideas!

Happy New Year,
John

PS - Sorry for the rotated pictures. I'm not sure what's happening there...

Ncely done, John. You are going to love the 321... Full-rim flush makes a big difference. Yep, making these great trailers even better is boatloads of fun!

Happy New Year to you, too... be healthy and happy!

Rob

[Rich W]

Originally Posted by johnjohnjohn

A few mods over the holidays:

#3 - I removed the accordion privacy curtain and replaced it with hand-sewn curtains on an oval closet rod. Pictures below. I bought a three pack of closet rods, and have 2 left.

Hi John, what fabric did you go with? Blackout curtain?
Is there a brand name of the closet rod you used?

Originally Posted by johnjohnjohn

... I'm generally suspicious of anything that requires this much caulk. Also it would drip slightly outside the shower onto the raised floor by the toilet...

We have a soft spot on the floor in front of the toilet raised floor. I haven't seen any leak under the shower so maybe mine has been leaking down that wall, onto the raised floor and then the lower floor. It could be my problem. Thanks for the information.

Originally Posted by johnjohnjohn

PS - Sorry for the rotated pictures. I'm not sure what's happening there...

Newer cameras have a flag to distinguish between portrait and landscape layout and so does newer software. I'm thinking when you upload a picture here it is not able to read that flag, just guessing.

When I take a picture with my newer Android and upload to my Windows 7 laptop, the rotation may not be correct, but if I upload to my Windows 10 machine the picture appears in correct mode.

If you do the attachment, click the "preview" button before posting and check the layout. You may have to manually rotate the picture using photo editing software.

[RFP]

Fixed 'em...

[johnjohnjohn]

Thanks! I'll try that with the photos next time.

The fabric is from Joann Fabrics.
https://www.joann.com/hudson-43-mult.../16005225.html

This was my first-ever sewing project, and I was thankful for the fabric's subtle perpendicular texturing: it made it easier to keep everything square. I used these instructions for sewing the panel:
https://www.onlinefabricstore.net/ma...-tab-curtains/
The wall-to-wall span is about 40", and the fabric was ~58" wide untrimmed. I cleaned up the edges and gave them a 1" double-fold hem. So the overall width of the curtain is probably around 52". It is perfect for the 40" opening.

The closet rod is from Hafele. I bought a 3-pack of 48" rods and hardware.
https://www.hafele.com/us/en/product...33700020023%23

[Rich W]

Originally Posted by johnjohnjohn

Thanks! I'll try that with the photos next time.

The fabric is from Joann Fabrics.
https://www.joann.com/hudson-43-mult.../16005225.html

This was my first-ever sewing project, and I was thankful for the fabric's subtle perpendicular texturing: it made it easier to keep everything square. I used these instructions for sewing the panel:
https://www.onlinefabricstore.net/ma...-tab-curtains/
The wall-to-wall span is about 40", and the fabric was ~58" wide untrimmed. I cleaned up the edges and gave them a 1" double-fold hem. So the overall width of the curtain is probably around 52". It is perfect for the 40" opening.

The closet rod is from Hafele. I bought a 3-pack of 48" rods and hardware.
https://www.hafele.com/us/en/product...33700020023%23

Well John, thank you ever so much for this information. I think that having the curtain there instead of the bi-folding door is a great idea. I was ready to jump all over it.

I told my wife about it and she said "no way". I was shocked. The AC/heat pump blowing against the bi-fold at night keeps waking me up (until I get used to it) and the curtain would be ideal. But no, she doesn't like it. I asked why not and she said "because I don't like it". In that respect she's like Penny (Holly Hunter) in Oh Brother, Where Art Thou. "I've spoken my piece and counted to three."

But again, thanks, I think it's a great idea.

[switz]

Note that the image size can cause orientation issues on this forum. Make the image smaller and the orientation will turn out as desired.

[RFP]

Originally Posted by richw46

I told my wife about it and she said "no way". I was shocked. :

We're kinda with your wife here... we actually like the folding thingy! That said, the "first time" sewing skills are awesome! Yep!

Oh, and my HDMI cable to the bedroom TV lies in the channel created by the open top of the accordion door track.

[Rich W]

Originally Posted by RFP

We're kinda with your wife here... we actually like the folding thingy! That said, the "first time" sewing skills are awesome! Yep!

Oh, and my HDMI cable to the bedroom TV lies in the channel created by the open top of the accordion door track.

Okay, you and the wife for the folding doorway; 2 to 2, I'm with John. Less work and expense for me then. I still like the curtain though. I would have used heavy material, like blackout material. My mom was a seamstress, sewed curtains for many years for many important places. She did curtains for either the Governor's mansion or the state capital building. I know what the various components are, fabrics, pleating, folding, hanging and other things.....but I cannot sew other than buttons.

There is still a curtain rod that goes across the gangway so your HDMI cable would have a path to the other side.

[Fair_Enough]

Seeking advice.
I need to replace the seal around the screen door on my 2013. I posted this on the 23FB and have attempted searching the site and all forums.
I know the seal there, what's left of it, isn't original. What is the correct seal. The one I'm talking about prevents critters from flying in around sides and top. Bottom? Didn't think to look if its the same.
Thanks, FE

[switz]

From my copy of the 2015 International models year parts book, the 23D and other models LH hinge screen door assembly is #114654 and the foam tape gasket is #365013-01