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Old 10-31-2020, 06:14 AM   #4041
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Exclamation

Peter, have you considered making a shelf for the DVD player that actually mounts to the TV? I made one like that for the TV back in The Queen's Chamber... Works perfectly.
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Old 10-31-2020, 06:30 AM   #4042
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As I’m sure you know by know Peter..... Dude you are SCREWED! One long cable. It might be possible to “Re-Terminate” the end with the proper tools.
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-signa...46904883&psc=1
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Old 10-31-2020, 06:50 AM   #4043
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As I’m sure you know by know Peter..... Dude you are SCREWED! One long cable. It might be possible to “Re-Terminate” the end with the proper tools.
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-signa...46904883&psc=1
What? You didn't like my idea? Now you've hurt my feelings!!

It's going to be harder than you think. With no standardized wire color coding, it will take considerable effort to reconstruct which wire goes where.
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Old 10-31-2020, 06:56 AM   #4044
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What? You didn't like my idea? Now you've hurt my feelings!!

It's going to be harder than you think. With no standardized wire color coding, it will take considerable effort to reconstruct which wire goes where.
Sorry Rob,
I was missed the mount idea. Of course that would work fine, but as you know.... I’m a wire guy
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Old 10-31-2020, 12:52 PM   #4045
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Sorry Rob,
I was missed the mount idea. Of course that would work fine, but as you know.... I’m a wire guy
Well, I decided to hit the Easy Button...flying Ronnie out for the day

Rob, that mount is, as expected, fantastic. Beyond my abilities for sure given living in the AS right now, I don't have a shop or garage or tools handy to fabricate that! Not that I could if I did have my good old garage available!

Anyway, I am going to attempt a repair first. I've done my due diligence, and with a new end connector, a 15 foot HDMI cable with a couple of female/female couplers (to create a loop between the good end and the broken end), I hopefully can get this working again. Rob, you are right there is no easy 'match' for the wires, but by creating a loop and having the wires on the broken end exposed...I can go through one by one and tone out the correct positions on the new connector using a multimeter. Tedious, but doable.

My goal in wanting to keep the source end in the cabinet above the dinette, is that I plan on replacing the radio head unit with a double-DIN head unit that includes a DVD player, like what Troutboy did. This will free up the cabinet allowing me to remove the current dvd player and the wasteful platform and box it is mounted in, as well as have my Apple TV up there. Plus give me a better stereo system as well, and retain the ability to play the tv/dvd through the stereo system.

So, $53 of stuff ordered on Amazon (new connector, 2 couplers, 15 foot cable, a micro-screwdriver set that is handy to have, and a coax/cat5 stripper that is long overdue in my toolkit) and hopefully I can get this done. If I fail, on to plan B. Stand by!
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Old 10-31-2020, 02:56 PM   #4046
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[snip] ... and hopefully I can get this done. If I fail, on to plan B. Stand by!
Of course you can! It will probably keep you occupied for an hour or two, but you've got a good plan and it looks like you've ordered exactly what you need. Later, if you need a TV-mounted shelf, just let me know... I'll be happy to make it for you.
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Old 11-01-2020, 10:18 AM   #4047
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Later, if you need a TV-mounted shelf, just let me know... I'll be happy to make it for you.
The people on this thread are amazing!
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Old 11-02-2020, 09:54 AM   #4048
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Looking for some assistance just got back from a two-week trip and noticed my driver side brake lights not working, tail lights ok.
Decided to check the bulbs, Took out the four screws that hold the assembly on but could not get it off, is there something else I should be doing?
Thanks for any advice in advance
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Old 11-02-2020, 10:16 AM   #4049
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Mine are LED units that come out when you remove the rubber retaining ring around the units. There are no screws to be removed unless you want to take off the housing.
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Old 11-02-2020, 11:58 AM   #4050
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Thanks I just checked again and now they are working must have been a loose connection at my tow vehicle........ crisis over!
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Old 11-02-2020, 12:32 PM   #4051
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Question 2008 23D - new Fridge fan hook up and faucet issues...

Hi Everyone!
i am a "newbie" and have recently acquired a 2008 23D Ocean Breeze.
first -
i was trying to replace the original (noisy) refrigerator fan with a Silenx fan like so many seem to have done... i ordered one off Amazon. same size etc. i am hooked to city power. so i clip the Blue and Red wires of the old fan.. and was planning to crimp them onto the Silenx fan wires.. should be easy, no? so just as a test - pre crimping...i twisted the wires together (in order to ensure the fan was spinning the correct way) but...when i do this...nothing. so i tried putting the old fan back (as it was working fine if noisily before) by twisting the wires together... again nothing. so now my fridge vent area seems a bit hot. i propped it open and its not exactly warm weather but i'm concerned i might somehow damage the fridge if i don't sort this fan issue soon!

secondly - my kitchen sink came with an Elkay pull out faucet. looks good seems nice. however, only a trickle comes out (even with the sprayer removed) all other faucets/shower are fine with normal pressure (i am hooked to city water). so its not the aerator (which is clean and in any case not in play) i called Elkay and the nice folks there sent me a new cartridge. i replace old one easy. still same issue... a trickle of water...what else could be causing this issue? maybe i need a whole new faucet? (i like the Elkay look)

third - my batteries are dead. but i am in place for the next few months hooked to city electric and water. will not using/charging batteries at all cause me any issues? can't i run everything off my hook up? any caveats?

sorry for the multi questions... i am trying to get up to speed here...

thanks in advance,
Redwood Dreamer
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Old 11-02-2020, 06:26 PM   #4052
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The 23D thread

I am installing a Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C and would like some confirmation I am cutting the correct wire. The gold one closest to me or the yellow on below it? Any help would be grateful. Click image for larger version

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Old 11-02-2020, 07:08 PM   #4053
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I am installing a Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C and would like some confirmation I am cutting the correct wire. The gold one closest to me or the yellow on below it? Any help would be grateful. Attachment 382476
This one.
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Old 11-03-2020, 07:00 AM   #4054
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Hi Redwood, greetings from central Kentucky and welcome to the forum. Since there are so many forums in here it would be best if you could post your issues individually in the correct forum because your issues may not always be related to your AS size.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedwoodDrmz View Post
Hi Everyone!
i am a "newbie" and have recently acquired a 2008 23D Ocean Breeze.
first -
i was trying to replace the original (noisy) refrigerator fan with a Silenx fan like so many seem to have done... i ordered one off Amazon. same size etc. i am hooked to city power. so i clip the Blue and Red wires of the old fan.. and was planning to crimp them onto the Silenx fan wires.. should be easy, no? so just as a test - pre crimping...i twisted the wires together (in order to ensure the fan was spinning the correct way) but...when i do this...nothing. so i tried putting the old fan back (as it was working fine if noisily before) by twisting the wires together... again nothing. so now my fridge vent area seems a bit hot. i propped it open and its not exactly warm weather but i'm concerned i might somehow damage the fridge if i don't sort this fan issue soon!
There is a button thermostat in that area. If it's too cool then the thermostat won't engage and the fan doesn't come on. It will be on or near the cooling fins, looks like a silver button with 2 wires. You can put a jumper on the relay to bypass it or you can heat it with a hair dryer to force it to close. You can test the fans by connecting them to a 12 VDC battery. You could use a voltmeter to test for power at the fan wiring. Most likely it's the button thermostat.

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secondly - my kitchen sink came with an Elkay pull out faucet. looks good seems nice. however, only a trickle comes out (even with the sprayer removed) all other faucets/shower are fine with normal pressure (i am hooked to city water). so its not the aerator (which is clean and in any case not in play) i called Elkay and the nice folks there sent me a new cartridge. i replace old one easy. still same issue... a trickle of water...what else could be causing this issue? maybe i need a whole new faucet? (i like the Elkay look)
If you have the aerator off and still not getting water then there is something wrong where the cartridge is. Is it possible to test it without the filter? If you have the faucet open, does water come out of the sprayer?

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third - my batteries are dead. but i am in place for the next few months hooked to city electric and water. will not using/charging batteries at all cause me any issues? can't i run everything off my hook up? any caveats?

sorry for the multi questions... i am trying to get up to speed here...

thanks in advance,
Redwood Dreamer
The breakaway emergency cable system requires batteries if you were going to tow it. If it's staying in place then I don't think you would need the batteries as long as your converter is working OK. It will provide the 12 VDC needed for lights, fridge etc. I believe the propane detector is a direct wire to the batteries. If your batteries are dead and you aren't trying to charge them (Use / Store is in Store position) then the propane detector won't work and that would be a hazard.
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Old 11-03-2020, 07:48 AM   #4055
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Hi Redwood, greetings from central Kentucky and welcome to the forum. Since there are so many forums in here it would be best if you could post your issues individually in the correct forum because your issues may not always be related to your AS size. [snip]
Yeah, but we *are* the cool kids: smart, helpful, and really good looking! And where else is he going to get the quality of info you just gave him?

;-)
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Old 11-03-2020, 08:20 AM   #4056
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Yeah, but we *are* the cool kids: smart, helpful, and really good looking! And where else is he going to get the quality of info you just gave him?

;-)
Well yes, there's that, we are definitely the cool kids.
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Old 11-03-2020, 02:20 PM   #4057
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Thanks Rich!
1- I see the sensor with 2 wires and aware that’s the trigger for the fan. I was working quite slot and noisily before I tried the fan swap. I did the hairdryer trick. Nothing. Would be weird the thermostat somehow broke at the same instance I swapped the fans... I am puzzled by this. Now just trying to get back to square 1 and get the old noisy Domenic fan back going.
2- i indeed removed the pull out wand bit. And the hose just allows a trickle of water ... I swapped the cartridge. Same result no change. Trickle. All other sinks shower pressurized as normal. It’s only the kit hen sink. Hmmm
3- ok thanks for the tip on the battery and propane sensor. I suppose I can just get a battery operated sensor for gas and smoke? Would that make sense?

Thanks again forum!
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Old 11-03-2020, 02:57 PM   #4058
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[snip] I indeed removed the pull out wand bit. And the hose just allows a trickle of water ... I swapped the cartridge. Same result no change. Trickle. All other sinks shower pressurized as normal. It’s only the kit hen sink.
Is there *any* difference in flow between full-cold and full-hot?
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And some stuff

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Old 11-04-2020, 06:25 AM   #4059
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Originally Posted by RedwoodDrmz View Post
Thanks Rich!
1- I see the sensor with 2 wires and aware that’s the trigger for the fan. I was working quite slot and noisily before I tried the fan swap. I did the hairdryer trick. Nothing. Would be weird the thermostat somehow broke at the same instance I swapped the fans...
Take a voltage reading between ground and each button thermostat wire. One of them should be 12 vdc. If you get 12 vdc either replace the button thermostat or wire a switch to the inside to manually turn it off and on. If you don't get 12vdc at the button thermostat you'll have to trace the wire back to find the problem. One side of the thermostat should have voltage if the fridge is turned on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedwoodDrmz View Post
2- i indeed removed the pull out wand bit. And the hose just allows a trickle of water ... I swapped the cartridge. Same result no change. Trickle. All other sinks shower pressurized as normal. It’s only the kit hen sink. Hmmm
Sounds like there's a blockage in the faucet. Disconnect the line under the sink and see if you can get water out of the pipe itself. You'll have to manually turn the water on/off and put a pot there to catch the water.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedwoodDrmz View Post
3- ok thanks for the tip on the battery and propane sensor. I suppose I can just get a battery operated sensor for gas and smoke? Would that make sense?
Smoke and CO2 sensors use their own 9v battery, like in a house. Only the propane sensor is connected to the battery bus. I don't know the condition of your batteries but if it were me I'd get a small battery as a replacement, connect the terminals to it, set the jumper aside and get rid of the old batteries. Any automotive store will give you cash or store credit for old batteries. You'll need one old battery to swap for the new one. It's always good to have battery backup in case the power goes out. At least you'll have lights and the propane sensor.
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Old 11-04-2020, 11:24 AM   #4060
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Thanks rich
Fan:
I did more digging yesterday... got out the meter as suggested. Earlier I had eyeballed the fuse and it looked intact to me. But...upon checking w meter it was not reading. So I simply changed the fuse and voila! Fans now working. Not sure how or why fuse blew out but...both fans work now. The silenx fan while way quieter seems to move less air in my unscientific opinion. I am only using one or the other now. Maybe I’ll get another quiet Silenx fan and hook in series like I see a lot of folks doing... as maybe one is not enough?
PS my fridge seems very very cold. And there seems to be no temp control? I think I read it’s fixed and nothing to do about that? Better than warm I suppose!

Faucet- yup you got this right. There is a small brass “ limiter” of some sort below the faucet. So I removed the entire faucet just as you described. Turns out that part had hard crystallized bits in there almost like plastic. Mineral deposits maybe? Scraped those out and replaced. Works fine now. Love the faucet it is now saved!

Batteries- ok yes I see I was confusing CO2 sensor with propane sensor I think? I see your point. Should be hooked up. If I simply got a new set of batteries ($400 approximately) and I was just staying in place the next 6 months... would they be ok hooked to my city power and in Store mode? Or would I ruin them? There fore better to use a small cheaper battery?

Finally - I am thinking of connecting to my home sewer line. A bit daunting but have some ideas. They just need a polish. Is there a better thread to ask this type questions?
Thanks again all
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