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Old 03-15-2020, 09:10 PM   #3841
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tucker74 View Post
Hey guys - first extended trip and have a problem with the hot water heater (if not my ignorance). Had gone through most everything but not actually hooked up water, so when I pulled into site at Garner State Park and hooked up the water, of course the drains are open from winterization and immediately flood the site . Got that sorted, but for some reason when I turn on the water heater it lights the pilot for a minute or so and goes out. It may have been winterized as well, found the drain plug removed in the outer compartment...taped and tightened it and didn’t notice anything else out of sorts. Any ideas? It has the auto-igniter via the switch over the vanity sink.

Thanks!
Tucker
Have you opened the bypass valve? This is probably not your entire problem but it does need to be opened.
Cleaning out the burner might fix it. Sometime bugs will build nests inside the tube.
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Old 03-16-2020, 07:08 AM   #3842
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tucker74 View Post
Hey guys - first extended trip and have a problem with the hot water heater (if not my ignorance). Had gone through most everything but not actually hooked up water, so when I pulled into site at Garner State Park and hooked up the water, of course the drains are open from winterization and immediately flood the site . Got that sorted, but for some reason when I turn on the water heater it lights the pilot for a minute or so and goes out. It may have been winterized as well, found the drain plug removed in the outer compartment...taped and tightened it and didn’t notice anything else out of sorts. Any ideas? It has the auto-igniter via the switch over the vanity sink.

Thanks!
Tucker
Always always let the WH tank fill before turning it on via 120 vac. If you had it filled, no problem. if it was empty you probably burned up the element. Still it should run on LP and that's what you seem to be describing. The auto igniter is in the WH. If you hear it click then come on; then go out and probably the red monitor light come on and stay on. It is more than likely just air in the LP line. Keep trying. My WH sometimes does this but once its run steady its good to go.
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Old 03-16-2020, 08:51 AM   #3843
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfwhistle View Post
Always always let the WH tank fill before turning it on via 120 vac. If you had it filled, no problem. if it was empty you probably burned up the element. Still it should run on LP and that's what you seem to be describing. The auto igniter is in the WH. If you hear it click then come on; then go out and probably the red monitor light come on and stay on. It is more than likely just air in the LP line. Keep trying. My WH sometimes does this but once its run steady its good to go.
WW

He has a 2006 SE so it's a propane heater, unless he's replace it. The red light is going out so it sounds like it's lighting, but if so and the tank is empty, same story, burned up. If he didn't open the bypass valve there's no water in the tank.
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Old 03-16-2020, 08:55 AM   #3844
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tucker74 View Post
Hey guys - first extended trip and have a problem with the hot water heater (if not my ignorance). Had gone through most everything but not actually hooked up water, so when I pulled into site at Garner State Park and hooked up the water, of course the drains are open from winterization and immediately flood the site . Got that sorted, but for some reason when I turn on the water heater it lights the pilot for a minute or so and goes out. It may have been winterized as well, found the drain plug removed in the outer compartment...taped and tightened it and didn’t notice anything else out of sorts. Any ideas? It has the auto-igniter via the switch over the vanity sink.

Thanks!
Tucker

Let's hope the red light is staying on. That means it's not lighting and like WolfWhistle said, you need to keep trying. First, make sure the tank has water. Did you open the bypass valve and hear water going in? You need to keep a hot water tap open to let the air out while filling. Then try lighting again.
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Old 03-16-2020, 12:48 PM   #3845
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We recently had a similar situation. In our case a spider had built a web in the gas tube and when I started the LP the flame backed up and melted the thermo-fuse. This is a safety feature by design.

First thing to do is make sure the tube is clear of any obstacles. I loosen and slide the vent sleeve out of the way and use a pipe cleaner and gently push it through the tube. Then visually inspect the thermo-fuse and see if the plastic cover appears to be melted. If it is melted you need a new fuse. It's a good idea to have extras on hand.

I don't know if your hot water heater has a thermo-fuse so this is an assumption on my part.

In our 2017 AS if the Thermo-fuse is melted neither the gas or the electric element will work.
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Old 03-16-2020, 12:55 PM   #3846
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meriwether View Post
We recently had a similar situation. In our case a spider had built a web in the gas tube and when I started the LP the flame backed up and melted the thermo-fuse.


There was a stink bug in ours. It lit and gas was burning but there was black smoke coming out the vent door and we didn't know it. It smoked the door up pretty good so I'll have to use engine paint on it or replace it. I'd like to get a stainless steel door but AS wants my first born male child for it, so it's looking more like engine paint.
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Old 03-18-2020, 08:22 AM   #3847
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Thanks guys - you may indeed be correct. I'll check that pipe for obstructions, how does one fill the water tank? I assume it was drained, the plug was in the bottom of the outer compartment

Tucker
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Old 03-18-2020, 09:30 AM   #3848
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tucker74 View Post
Thanks guys - you may indeed be correct. I'll check that pipe for obstructions, how does one fill the water tank? I assume it was drained, the plug was in the bottom of the outer compartment

Tucker

Under the mattress there is a hole for access to the bypass valves. There are 3 valves. Change the position of all 3 to be opposite of what they are now and water should flow into the tank. Keep a hot water tap open in the kitchen to let the air out. I'm assuming you are on city water. If not, your water tank will need to have water and your pump will run for a while.


Page F-9 of your owners manual
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Old 03-18-2020, 10:02 AM   #3849
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Thanks Rich - just found that in my manual binder, I've switched them now. Guess I'll have to see what damage was done to the hot water heater turning on dry. I've got an Atwood G6A-8E auto-igniting gas heater -

Tucker
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Old 03-18-2020, 11:07 AM   #3850
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tucker74 View Post
Thanks Rich - just found that in my manual binder, I've switched them now. Guess I'll have to see what damage was done to the hot water heater turning on dry. I've got an Atwood G6A-8E auto-igniting gas heater -

Tucker
Hopefully, you didn't leave it on for very long. My AS and owners manual are all in the storage lot so I can't tell you what my WH is. I have a 2006 23' Safari also, so unless yours has been replaced it's most likely same as mine. After it fills, try the igniter again then if the light goes out, go outside and check for leaks. If no leaks, buy a lottery ticket today.

BTW, keep a spare plug for the WH. This August I was a long way from home and my plug gave out. You'd be surprised how much pressure is behind them. I was standing next to it, trying to figure out why it was leaking, gave it a small turn of the wrench and BLAM! No need for a shower that day. I was lucky there was a Camping World a few miles away. I got 2 replacements with a wrench included (which I didn't need). I put the new one in, refilled the WH and lit it again. I went to put the spare in my kit in the rear storage and found a bag of 4, left by the previous owner. Shoulda looked there first, I suppose. (Side story: The plug broke at the top, leaving the threaded portion inside the WH. I had to find a large enough easy out/extractor to get that out. More expense.)

There are better ones than Camping World plugs, they are thin and hollow. Find some good ones.
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Old 03-19-2020, 05:59 PM   #3851
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Panel in place, have about the same shadowing as the factory panel, but I can tilt this one ! If it is not raining tomorrow I will pull it out and get a better shot of it, also will seal up the mounts tomorrow, dinner is calling now!
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Old 03-19-2020, 07:16 PM   #3852
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Quote:
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Panel in place, have about the same shadowing as the factory panel, but I can tilt this one ! If it is not raining tomorrow I will pull it out and get a better shot of it, also will seal up the mounts tomorrow, dinner is calling now!


Thanks for posting pictures :-) I need to get mine ordered now that I know it will fit
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Old 03-20-2020, 10:40 AM   #3853
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We have five AM Solar 100 watt panels the roof of our 2015 23D. It is possible to get lots more panels on the roof.
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Old 03-20-2020, 02:36 PM   #3854
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One of the reasons I wanted tilting options is so I could catch the late afternoon sun coming in the side of the Air Port! That is on days we have sun!
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Old 03-23-2020, 05:08 PM   #3855
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The added solar panel on the street side did at least one thing I wanted! The curb side grabs a bit of morning sun and the street side late afternoon sun while under the shelter. With the inverter on, stereo playing and a small 120v fan running the last 24 hours batteries show 100% ( I know, factory display not the most accurate ) and show 12.9 v on the gauge, 13 v at the batteries on a meter. Not bad for under a car ~ er, Airstream port.
90 watt long Zamp panel, AM solar mounts, a few other misc bits and pieces I have $300 invested in the upgrade. I did make my own arms for tilting the panel out of leftovers from another project.

Now I just cant to go camping and use it!
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Old 03-29-2020, 05:32 PM   #3856
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For Sale?

All buttoned up with lithium batteries installed.
Now just one thing left to do..... sell her! We are thinking of selling our beloved 23D and finally moving into a 27GT.
Many of you are very aware of our 23D and the pedigree it has.
With the full Victron suite of components including 3000 watt MultiPlus, Color GX monitor, 400 watts of Solar on 4ga wire, 400AH of LiFePO4 batteries allow you to run anything in the trailer from the inverter. WeBoost, SureCall, WiFi Ranger, Froli Sleep System,
3” lift, Michelin tire and sooooooooooo much more.
We will see how this process unfolds.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 03-30-2020, 05:51 AM   #3857
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All buttoned up with lithium batteries installed.
Now just one thing left to do..... sell her! We are thinking of selling our beloved 23D and finally moving into a 27GT.
Many of you are very aware of our 23D and the pedigree it has.
With the full Victron suite of components including 3000 watt MultiPlus, Color GX monitor, 400 watts of Solar on 4ga wire, 400AH of LiFePO4 batteries allow you to run anything in the trailer from the inverter. WeBoost, SureCall, WiFi Ranger, Froli Sleep System,
3” lift, Michelin tire and sooooooooooo much more.
We will see how this process unfolds.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Say it ain't so.
WW
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Old 03-30-2020, 06:03 AM   #3858
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Yep I think we are going to move to a 27 soon. We’ve been flirting with it for a while. Not sure how the pandemic will effect the sale of our unit, but some will land a nice one for sure.
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Old 03-31-2020, 12:35 PM   #3859
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Honda EU2200 Gen Questions

Hey All, I want to get 2 of these to run in parallel, but they are currently under recall / no sell orders. Apparently they can short circuit and burn near salt water:

https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2020/am...d-burn-hazards

I can buy a used pair, and I don't plan to be around the sea, wondering if you guys think it's worth the risk. I'll get the recall done in time, but I bet with current state of the world it might be awhile.

I want to add the Hutch mountain propane option to these, thus the reason for not going with another brand. Plus I like having 4400w vs a 3000 unit.
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Old 04-01-2020, 07:53 AM   #3860
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Note that the EU2200 units are the replacement for the EU2000 units and offer the capability of generating the 30 amp (3,600 watts) on a continuous basis for single air conditioner trailers. Both the EU2000 and the EU2200 units are easily converted to propane as well by companies like GenConneX.

We converted our pair of EU2000 years ago to propane only using the GenConnex equipment that maintains the case of the generator with no odd protrubances like some other options. The link for reference is below.

https://genconnexdirect.net
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