Cold enough to damage plumbing?

[Gibson3798]

We found ourselves parked overnight with a low temp of 23 degrees, for the first time.

I disconnected the water at the input, before nightfall. We kept the furnace set on 52 degrees and a small space heater going in the trailer all night.

This morning, the outside hydrant was frozen, the campground manager heated it until it was free of ice and then I connected it to the trailer.

There was no water coming into the trailer, to the kitchen faucet or toilet, but since we were one day away from home, we drove back and took the trailer to storage.

I'm kicking myself now for not getting water hooked up again after we reached temps of 48 degree and testing the flow.

Do you folks think damage has been done, and/or advice on how to proceed.

[n2916s]

PEX is pretty forgiving so you are probably okay. I don’t use a space heater in that kind of situation as I want the furnace pushing warm air down around the tanks and plumbing and the space heater will cause the furnace to cycle on less often.

I know the temptation is to use that campground electricity that you have already paid for but sometimes more furnace is better…

[badkat]

I think you are ok!

[majorairhead]

I always run furnace only when temps dip to freezing/below freezing.

I say no way to tell if any damage has been done until next time you hook up to city water.

[Wazbro]

Originally Posted by majorairhead

I always run furnace only when temps dip to freezing/below freezing.

I say no way to tell if any damage has been done until next time you hook up to city water.

Agreed, most likely places for damage would be city water inlet and outdoor shower.

[Fungus]

Possible damage confirmed only by testing. You could pressurize the system with 45 PSI of air and look for a drop in air pressure. Then look and listen for air leaks. Then add water. City inlet damage could be seen as a drip anywhere below and within a foot or so either side of the inlet. On my trailer it appears as an issue with the gray and black tank valves, but it is the city inlet.

As for the future:

We also run only the furnace during freezing temps.

I have a small fridge cube-fan that relocates to a spot under the closet in order to circulate air to the backside of the city inlet and the backside of the outdoor shower. The air there is warmed by the furnace ductwork.

The city inlet gets a styrofoam hose bib cover. The outdoor shower is stuffed with those hose bib sock-type covers.

We carry the gear on every fall/winter/spring trip.

[Gibson3798]

I see where I made a mistake using the space heater, and can only hope that since I used it in our rear bedroom (zone 1) and shut that area off from the kitchen (zone 2-furnace) and had the furnace on 52, the furnace cycled on enough to keep things from being damaged.
When I re-connect to water where should I be on the lookout for any leaks?
What temp would you folks have set the furnace, with those outside temps, assuming you don't prefer a overly warm trailer?
Thanks in advance!

[NevadaGeo]

I don't know about your new airstreams, but my 1978 Excella has a fresh water tank and water pump. I switch on the pump and in a minute I know if there is a water leak in the system if the pump does not shut off. If the line pressures up and the pump goes off, there's no leak to chase, under than a drip somewhere. But I don't know if the new machines have a fresh water tank but need to hook up to a city water hydrant.

[richard5933]

Originally Posted by NevadaGeo

I don't know about your new airstreams, but my 1978 Excella has a fresh water tank and water pump. I switch on the pump and in a minute I know if there is a water leak in the system if the pump does not shut off. If the line pressures up and the pump goes off, there's no leak to chase, under than a drip somewhere. But I don't know if the new machines have a fresh water tank but need to hook up to a city water hydrant.

My 1994 is similar, but turning on the pump to test will not pressurize the line between the city water inlet and the plumbing. To test that it's necessary to connect the city water or use air pressure.

[Wazbro]

Originally Posted by richard5933

My 1994 is similar, but turning on the pump to test will not pressurize the line between the city water inlet and the plumbing. To test that it's necessary to connect the city water or use air pressure.

On newer trailers the lines are pressurized all the way to the city water inlet, however if the city water connection itself is leaking on the other side of its internal anti-back flow/check valve it wont leak unless hooked to city water.

Still can check everything else by having water in fresh tank turn on pump, if it builds pressure there isn't a bad leak. After it shuts off from building pressure leave pump on and sit in trailer for at least an hour and listen for the pump to kick on again. NOTE; Air in the lines could also make the pump kick on giving false positive for a leak.

As said before the most likely places for leaks are city water connection and outside shower.